: No Start Please I Need Help!!



donclericuzio
12-07-05, 01:10 AM
my 1995 STS acts up as well and I need help BAD!!! :annoyed: First off she has about 189K on her and I paid $4040.00 exactly for it two years ago, when she had 162K on her, did a tune up and new exhaust when I first got it, was told that I needed new mounts then, never got around to doing, the dogbone style ones up top are showin some wear, My tranny was acting up reving hard into second, and always wanting to slam back down to like 1500rpms right when you let up of the gas, even at interstate speeds, Im pretty sure the tranny needs some work. About a year ago, I had a problem where it wouldnt start at all, I ripped apart the steering column thinkin it was the ignition swith, wasnt that, so I had it towed up to Cadillac where the said the transmission transponder switch was messed up and the car couldnt tell wheather it was in park or drive. That was $450 right there. Now present day im stuck with the same dilema, go to start it and nothing no wanting to start or even a turn over, it just clicks from under the hood, like the something is relieving presure, (have yet to get the recall fixed on the fuel rail) Sometime though about a month ago, it would go in and out, like go on a streak where it would start for like 3 or 4 days and then go on a 2 week streak of not starting, and now its been sitting for atleast 3 weeks on its longest sitting period to date. Im pretty sure but not positive its not the starter, not the alternator, replace the battery today, and Im clueless what it could be. I can pull up trouble codes but most of them arent on the online look-up thing that everyone on here uses. If anyone can share info that will help I would appreciate it. Someone also said something about the ignition coil?? INPUT NEEDED!!

dkozloski
12-07-05, 01:17 AM
Bad battery cables. Lugs are loose or connections corroded.

ewill3rd
12-07-05, 06:56 AM
So if I interpret that correctly, you have a new battery but when you try to start it everything seems to power up normally but the starter just clicks once and then nothing happens?

If that is the case I would say the starter is probably on it's way out, but that is not set in stone. Wiring problems could also be the culprit here. How are the battery cables?

donclericuzio
12-07-05, 04:04 PM
Yeah a brand new battery, all electronics work fine, but when I go to start it nothing as if there wasnt a battery in it at all! I read on here that starters hardly ever go out on Northstars. I checked the cables but Im no expert, I washed the bolts in a baking soda and water solution, which cleaned them good, how could I check the ones going to the starter??, also could it be the ignition coil?? I hope its something stupid, but about a year ago when I had a similar problem it was my transmission transponder switch which apparently made the car think it was in drive when it was really in park?? Im not sure. Alot of ODB codes arent on the website generally used by cadillacforum users. Im not even postitve where the clicking noise is coming from, it sounds like its coming from the driver side engine compartment and the starter is on the left correct??

ewill3rd
12-07-05, 05:27 PM
The starter is under the intake manifold in the valley of the engine. It's hard to test because of it's location.
Is it a loud click? What they replaces is sometimes referred to as the "neutral safety switch" which in recent years has taken on additional roles. Sometimes they go bad but it's pretty rare.

Is this the first generation northstar or the newer one with the plastic engine cover? The older one actually makes it easier to get to the starter with the removal of only 4 intake bolts and a couple of brackets.
The newer ones you have to take off more stuff.

There is a purple wire that goes to the starter, it usually runs in behind the power steering pump. Some years had a connection right behind the pump area too. That is handy for testing if you have it.
What you need to do is see if you are getting a crank signal to the starter itself. Let me check in a little while and see if I have a book for a '95 and I can tell you some more places to check.
Do you have a 12V test lamp? Multimeter? Some wires to make some jumpers with?

donclericuzio
12-07-05, 11:16 PM
could you help me out and explain a little more on how i could test to see if the actual crank is getting a signal, that purple wire is possibly behind the steering fluid thingy,could i use one of those testers to see if its getting proper current??Also a buddy of mine told me it could possibly be the ignition coil??? My car has almost 190K do you think I should keep it or get rid of it as soon as possible?? The guy before me I think might have had work done to it, because a mechanic said the seals appear to be in decent shape, Also I regret installing an aftermarket system to it because Im thinkin it messed with my electricals as well. When people say check your battery cables are the refering to the ones going to the battery, or the ground to the starter?? My battery cable appear to be alright. Whats your whole overall opinion about my ride. The tranny, shifts hard, the suspension needs to be replaced, and to top it off I cant even get it running. I want about a 2000 DTS with around 70K.

ewill3rd
12-08-05, 06:59 AM
Well I'd probably have to actually see your car and look it over to tell you whether or not I think it's worth keeping. Mileage is really irrelevant if the car is in good shape. If it runs and takes you where you wan to go it's worth something.

You don't see any theft deterrent messages on the DIC do you? If you put an aftermarket system in you may have "angered" the theft system but if it is to blame it should tell you that starting is disabled or something like that.
I got the books out last night but then forgot why.... I am really losing it!
I'll look again this morning if I can get to work early to see exactly where the best place to look at this problem would be.
I see you have mentioned the ignition coil, I think you mean "module", but... it should still crank if the ignition module were bad. Your no start would be a "cranks but won't start" rather than a "won't crank" concern.
When you check battery cables, you should check them all. That should have a positive cable that actually has 3 legs on it.
One goes to the starter, one to the alternator and one to the junction block on the left side in front of the strut tower (if memory serves).

Remind me once more today and I'll try to crack that book open and give you some tips on where to go from here.

donclericuzio
12-08-05, 11:47 AM
here are some more codes, I pulled these this morning they are as follows, P052,P109,I052,S037,S038,S011,S013,S018,S023,S028, S052, Im pretty sure there is more, but I was messin around with the test when I had it running, and pulled a weird one,that was like 152.45 or something like that, I was trying to figure out how to re-run the test after it was done since I couldnt write the codes down really quick. I hear you though on if the mileage thing, its just that Im not loaded and dont have lots of money to replace a lot on this car, and from what I gather they arent cheap repairs. The 4T80E tranny shifts good when she wants to, but I know she will give me problems in the future, most of the S codes are for my suspension, which I know needs replacing. I had that theft problem once or twice before but not in a long time, it did happen though shortly after the system install. More about the cables, do they usually go bad near the battery terminal or like you said they red one with the 3 extensions would I need to check those as well before narrowing it down as the starter. What are your thoughts on buyin one used off ebay rather then the new AC Delco for like 250$??? I really appreciate your help and info !!! PLEASE KEEP IT COMING!!!

ewill3rd
12-08-05, 02:03 PM
There is a 2 wire connector, it's on the right side back by the rear valve cover at the front of the engine.
there are 2 large wires in it. (I think)
One of them is the purple one.
Disconnect the connector and put your test light on the terminal for the purple wire in the vehicle harness end. Connect the other end to a good ground, the power steering line out the top of the pump is a good one.
Have someone crank it and see if the test light lights up.
If it does and the engine clicks and won't turn over, like you describe, then you'll probably have to remove the intake to inspect it and it would likely need a starter at that point.
More later

donclericuzio
12-08-05, 03:15 PM
alright ill do what i can, remember though Im not mechanically enclined, so I would have to get help on all of harder things. Ill check those wires out though, I was gonna ask you something else about my tune up, I had it about a year ago, and really had no problem with it as far as idle, no it idles rough and surges sometimes, shouldnt a tune up have prevented this?? Also my check oil level used to pop on sometimes and then Id add some oil and it would still be on, so that was another ???What kind of ride do you have?? Or do you just work around N*?? Is there a book/manual I could purchase that would show you the ins and outs off my engine/car, and everything Id need to help with the repair process??

samm
12-08-05, 03:33 PM
lol, nor are you grammatically INclined... hehe just kiddin man.
they do sell shop manuals, real thick books that repair shops/dealers use to fix cars. there is probably 2 volumes for the 95, so get a hold of both of them and you will be able to access any part of your car with extended knowledge... given you can read and understand the manuals... i can never get those wiring diagrams down, all i understand is the colors lol

ewill3rd
12-08-05, 06:06 PM
I work at a Cadillac Dealership in Alexandria VA.
I have the factory manuals right here on my desk in case I need to reference something.
Let's try to take one thing at a time. The other stuff isn't going to matter if we don't get it started and I am stretched so thin right now I am almost invisible. Try to see if that purple wire has power when you are cranking and we'll go from there.

You can buy the factory manuals from Helm Inc. I am sure.
They are white with nice blue print on the covers.

Murphyg
12-08-05, 09:22 PM
What about his fuel rail ??
He has said that he hasnt taken it in yet for the recall.
Also has said he doesnt have a lot of money so doesnt make sense since the recall is free.

Could it be the fuel rail reaking havoc and causing these issues ?

Ranger
12-08-05, 09:49 PM
No, the fuel rail recall is for leaks (fire hazard). It does not cause the problem he is having.

donclericuzio
12-08-05, 11:41 PM
Im aware the recall is free, the thing is just finding spare time to get it to the dealer, but that is a concern of mine once I get her running! I thought that could be it also, but since the recall is just warning about a fire hazzard then I ruled that out. What is your guys' opinion about buying a used one off ebay?? Theres one on there now going for like 50 I think. Im almost dead set its the starter, do you recommend replacing the gasket when the manifold is removed, Ive heard they are reusable but you would think to change it??? On a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being like dont even try it, How hard would the starter change be???(Talking in reference to me and a buddy trying to do it)

Eldyfig
12-09-05, 12:44 AM
Only one way to learn if you are interested. Do it.

ewill3rd
12-09-05, 07:02 AM
The starter change is pretty easy, but it requires a few hand tools and swivel sockets make it much easier.
Yes, if we can narrow it down to the starter get a set of intake gaskets too. You can bolt it down with the old ones, but it's likely that they might leak.

Once you get it running take it to the dealer and get the fuel rail done for free. Don't buy anything from ebay that the dealer will get you for free.
(maybe I misunderstood what you said there).
They might try to upsell you a bunch of stuff but just take notes and decline the repairs.

ewill3rd
12-09-05, 07:04 AM
Get the recall done as soon as it's running. Let the dealer do it, you get a nice new steel fuel rail for free, how can you beat that?

Yes it's not that hard to replace the starter, but you are going to have to raise or remove the intake. (I just lift them up, but you need some decent tools)
Replace the gaskets if we find that the intake has to come off for any reason.

donclericuzio
12-09-05, 10:44 AM
The recall is on top of my list after getting this thing running. I wasnt talkin about buy a fuel rail off ebay, I just wanted your opinion about buy a used starter off ebay rather than the full ACDelco price?? I figured that would be the smart thing to do is replace the gasket when doin the starter. So I will go ahead and do that. Im pretty much dead set that its my starter, So Ill work on getting one within the next couple days or so. Well enough about my starter for a minute, what is a good way to tell if my gaskets on my heads are still good?? The reason why Im concerned is because about a month after each oil chancge my check oil level comes on, and Ill add about a half quart to see if that helps but it stays on virtually until the next oil change? Perhaps a bad sensor?? Also towards then end of each oil cycle, my engines seems to knock. (hinting that its short on oil??)Also my change transmission fluid light comes on, and I read on here that you really dont need to change your tranny fluid but like once every 100K?? Factual?? Well I would apprecitate your response and continue to thank you for you input!!

ewill3rd
12-09-05, 11:09 AM
Monitor your oil level regularly. There are lots of places oil can leak on a N* but most of them don't have much to do with head gaskets.
Sometimes it's cheaper to just keep putting oil in. If the low oil light is on check the level, if its' not low it's probalby a bad sensor. They fail plenty.

Trans service intervals vary based on driving. A flush with the proper fluid is a good idea if it's been maintained, but can wreak havoc on an older trans that hasn't had much service. Changing the filters in the lower pan is probably a good idea but not really required. It only lets you change out about 6 quarts of fluid and the 4T80 holds a lot more than that.

If you are comfortable buying a starter off of ebay I guess you could. Even if you don't buy it at the dealer, find someplace that will stand behind it in case you have problems. Many rebuilders are lazy.

donclericuzio
12-09-05, 03:06 PM
See that could be a faulty sensor because when I do check out the level when it reads low, it always says full. So, should I refrain from adding more, since too much oil is just as bad as not enough?? Yeah I think my tranny holds something like 15 quarts of fluid. I should just get a reflush of the whole system?? There is most of the times spots of the garage from my N* leaking oil, I was unaware that when they are usually low, you need to add 2 whole quarts. Should I rely on the dipstick though for best acuracy??? Since Im not sure about the sensor??

mcowden
12-09-05, 03:20 PM
See that could be a faulty sensor because when I do check out the level when it reads low, it always says full. So, should I refrain from adding more, since too much oil is just as bad as not enough?? Yeah I think my tranny holds something like 15 quarts of fluid. I should just get a reflush of the whole system?? There is most of the times spots of the garage from my N* leaking oil, I was unaware that when they are usually low, you need to add 2 whole quarts. Should I rely on the dipstick though for best acuracy??? Since Im not sure about the sensor??

I don't think flushing the transmission is a good idea. Unfortunately, the post from our former resident guru has been removed, but I can tell you that he described what is done during a flush, and it didn't sound like it would be good for any transmission, potentially damaging a brand new unit and/or rendering an older one junk in a short time after the flush. People get transmissions flushed when they think they have problems, and that means the fluid cycling through the machine has the last guy's metal particles and clutch material flowing through it, and that stuff winds up getting into your transmission and stirred up with all the stuff from the bottom of your pan, then you drive it and it all gets run through the system! So yes, the fluid does get changed perhaps more thoroughly, but all that crap from the last guy's nearly-toasted transmission could wind up in yours! In the immortal words of Dan Quayle, that seems "Icky poo-poo!"

Murphyg
12-09-05, 06:15 PM
I remembered reading something about oil consumption in the NorthStars so I looked around for it.

Found this thread that also has another link to more explanation:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59100

Thought you might want to check it out.

ewill3rd
12-09-05, 08:05 PM
I wouldn't venture to try to defend the flushing equipment but the machine we use is set up so that the fluid that is in your car loops until you switch it to flush, then new fluid is pumped in from one reservoir and the old fluid is sent to another so there is no risk of the container that has the old fluid allowing fluid to get back into the car. While I am sure some older flushers were prone to this failure I am more sure that the industry has made leaps and bounds to prevent cross contamination.
Again, I am not saying that they are perfect and everyone has to make their own decision. I can tell you I feel very comfortable selling flush services to my customers with the equipment we have.

Now, I am also not saying that you should run out and flush your trans. There are instances where flushing a trans with certain types of problems already underway can actually make it worse. It's best to do this service regularly, but if it's been ignored for too long it can be the last straw in sending the trans down an unhappy road.

The dipstick is King! Slightly overfilling the crankcase is not lethal, but if you put too much oil in it can cause all kinds of problems. If the dipstick reads full and the low oil light is on, ignore it until you get the sensor replaced or the wiring checked for damage.
If there is no oil on the dipstick, add 1 quart at a time until it shows, then top it off with however much you are shy to bring it to the full mark.
From the bottom of the readable scale to the top is usually 1 quart.

Eldyfig
12-09-05, 08:49 PM
From the bottom of the readable scale to the top is usually 1 quart.

Under normal conditions, the low oil level warning comes on another quart below that. Making a good case why ewill says the dipstick is king.

mcowden
12-09-05, 09:12 PM
I wouldn't venture to try to defend the flushing equipment but the machine we use is set up so that the fluid that is in your car loops until you switch it to flush, then new fluid is pumped in from one reservoir and the old fluid is sent to another so there is no risk of the container that has the old fluid allowing fluid to get back into the car. While I am sure some older flushers were prone to this failure I am more sure that the industry has made leaps and bounds to prevent cross contamination.
Again, I am not saying that they are perfect and everyone has to make their own decision. I can tell you I feel very comfortable selling flush services to my customers with the equipment we have.

Now, I am also not saying that you should run out and flush your trans. There are instances where flushing a trans with certain types of problems already underway can actually make it worse. It's best to do this service regularly, but if it's been ignored for too long it can be the last straw in sending the trans down an unhappy road.

Thanks for the clarification, ewill3rd. I think that last part about "it can be the last straw..." is what made our old guru friend condemn the whole process, because it's hard to know for sure when it could be a bad thing and he didn't really see any benefit to doing a flush as opposed to a drain and refill. Can you elaborate any further on what kinds of problems a flush can help resolve and which should never be treated with a flush? I think that would help answer a lot of these "flush versus drain" questions in the future.

As far as the crankcase filling, if you fill it up to the full mark with room-temperature oil, it is slightly overfilled, right? The full mark assumes warm or hot oil. To be completely safe about it, on my car I fill it to about halfway between the add and full marks on an oil change, and that's about 7 quarts even. When the "CHECK OIL LEVEL" message comes up, I check it and if it's not visible on the dipstick, I add 1 quart and go on my merry way. Next time the message comes up, same story, and the process repeats until the "CHANGE ENGINE OIL" message comes up.

Ranger
12-09-05, 09:29 PM
I think this is what you guys are refering to.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-tech.html#transflush

ewill3rd
12-09-05, 10:07 PM
Engine oil doesn't really expand nearly as much as trans fluid does with temperature. Northstar engines are picky about making sure you let them sit for 5 minutes or so before you check the oil. When you shut it off there is a lot in the top end that takes a while to drain back down.
I have to confess that usually in the shop we know how much oil to put in them after we drain it and change the filter. I always check the oil level to make sure it's up on the stick but rarely do I let it sit for 5 minutes and then make sure it's precisely on the full mark. Usually when folks want a "quick lube" they want it quick. Now if it was called a "precise lube" that would be a different story ;)

As far as trans flushing, the rule I follow is that if you want to FIX a transmission you take it apart. If you want to MAINTAIN a transmission, you flush it. Odds are that if you get a DTC like a P0741 (the TCC code of death) that flushing it is not going to help. Noises, slipping, or other codes require service not maintenance. If you have some miles on the car and you just want to take care of it, or the fluid is getting a slightly stronger odor or darker color then by all means...
The 4T80-E is a pretty strong and reliable transmission. But like anything it has lots of hardworking rotating components. Fresh clean fluid helps maintain proper operation but aged and breaking down fluid has a tendency to allow seals to get hard and actually cut into the metal parts. This can lead to poor sealing in the clutch pistons and accumulators. Bits of metal can clog up solenoid screens and other filter screens causing poor shift control or perhaps some pump starvation that will lead to worse failures.
Often times taking a trans in this condition and flushing it with fresh fluid will cause more internal leakage and maybe even stir up some stuff that has gotten used to sitting in the bottom.
I am GM "Master Technician Certified" in Automatic Transmissions (don't applaud, throw money LOL) but rarely do I actually work on them. I have done a few TCC repairs, replaced some, and done a few input shaft speed sensors but that's about it. My particular shop (we have 3 shops at my store) is not set up to handle that kind of work.
I try to stay on the top side of the car as much as I can. I am getting older and my hands don't work so well anymore so I am not as experienced at some guys with transmission work.

Just take a look at the maintenance schedule for the type of driving you do and try to get it maintained when you can. Like I said, flushing is for maintenance, like changing your oil.
It's kind of like driving your car until you hear a rod knock and then changing your oil to try to fix it... if that makes sense to anyone.

I don't really have a hard and fast rule but for the way most average people drive I might unofficially recommend a flush every 50,000 miles.

The flush is superior to the "drain and fill" in that on a GM car you can't drain the convertor. Plus lots of fluid is still in the clutch pistons and accumulators. With the engine running, exchanging the fluid that is being passed through the cooler lets you get almost every drop of fluid that is in the trans out and replaced with new fluid. The pump circulates the fluid constantly so everything is getting pumped out and new fluid pumped back in.
I think the total capacity of the 4T80-E is 15 quarts, but the drain and fill only replaces 7.4 quarts (using an '04 Deville as an example).
It's easy to see the benefit of replacing all the fluid as opposed to less than half. Plus unless there is a major failure the screens don't really need to be changed anyway. You can clean them and reuse them if you want to. Putting new ones in is really not a benefit unless they are damaged or really plugged up. Even the pan gasket is designed to be reused.

Sorry for the length of this post.
If you have more questions please ask and I'll see if I can help clear up what I am capable of. I doubt I can address any question but I can give you my view at least.

Thanks to those of you who drop kind words now and then. It's really appreciated. I am just here to help when I can.

johnjr
12-13-05, 10:27 PM
Hi Ewill3rd.....new to the forum and noticed you are a Cadillac technician.You mentioned the p0741 code (related to transmission speed sensor).What are the ramifications of ignoring the code.Will the sensor eventually fail or will it just continue to log an error every few thousand miles as it has done in the past.Just trying to avoid a hefty repair bill

ewill3rd
12-14-05, 07:12 AM
If memory serves, the P0741 is the TCC code.
Usually it means you are going to be looking at a Check Engine Light shining in your face.
Your fuel mileage will suffer on the highway and the shift pattern may be affected. Let me see here....ahh.. I can't get to the service manual right now.
When the code sets the computer will take action but I am not sure what action that is. The ISS (input shaft speed sensor) code is a different code and that might be more okay because the computer can still use engine rpm as an input speed, it just can't tell if the torque convertor is slipping in lock up.
Are you getting a P0741 or a ISS code?

If I have time today I'll check to see what action the PCM takes for either code, give me your make/model/year so I get you accurate info.

Dooman
12-14-05, 08:30 AM
here are some more codes, I pulled these this morning they are as follows, P052,P109,I052,S037,S038,S011,S013,S018,S023,S028, S052, Im pretty sure there is more, but I was messin around with the test when I had it running, and pulled a weird one,that was like 152.45 or something like that, I was trying to figure out how to re-run the test after it was done since I couldnt write the codes down really quick. I hear you though on if the mileage thing, its just that Im not loaded and dont have lots of money to replace a lot on this car, and from what I gather they arent cheap repairs. The 4T80E tranny shifts good when she wants to, but I know she will give me problems in the future, most of the S codes are for my suspension, which I know needs replacing. I had that theft problem once or twice before but not in a long time, it did happen though shortly after the system install. More about the cables, do they usually go bad near the battery terminal or like you said they red one with the 3 extensions would I need to check those as well before narrowing it down as the starter. What are your thoughts on buyin one used off ebay rather then the new AC Delco for like 250$??? I really appreciate your help and info !!! PLEASE KEEP IT COMING!!!

Are you up and running? My 99 STS was forever doing the same thing. Turn the key, nothing. Everything was normal elsewhere. Try it again, nothing, again, started. I put up with it for a year and then the headgaskets went. Low and behold, under the intake, one of my starter bolts had completely backed out of the mount. Must have been an intermittant connection issue of some sort.

johnjr
12-14-05, 03:21 PM
The code is p0741 code.I had it once or twice in the past,but it has come on the last 3 mornings,all on the highway after a few miles of driving.Trans seems fine.I clear the code and its gone for the rest of the day.The car is a 1996 Seville STS.Here is a dumb question.I had the left front wheel off and noticed the lower ball joint is loose and when you wiggle the wheel,the driveshaft from the trans moves in and out.Is there possibly a connection between this and the input speed sensor acting up.Is it located at the end of this shaft??Thanks for any suggestions.....Also,how critical is this sensor to the transmission.If it fails outright,does that mean the trans does not know when to shift at all or does it just aid in the transmissions overall performance.......

ewill3rd
12-14-05, 09:00 PM
P0741 I think is telling you that your TCC is slipping too much so the PCM is turning it off. It won't set every ignition cycle, the enable parameters for the test are narrow when compared to some others.
It's likely you have an internal leak.
We have a list of parts that need to be replaced whenever this code is set and I think our guys don't miss when they do it.
I know that a few seals need to be replaced, the torque converter and any other damaged parts that they find. You don't have to dig too deep into the trans to do this repair.

The ISS is a different code. If it goes bad the light stays on all the time.

These are the conditions under which the test will run

Conditions for Running the DTC
No TP DTCs P0121, P0122 or P0123.
No VSS DTCs P0502 or P0503.
No AT ISS DTCs P0716 or P0717.
No TCC stuck ON DTC P0742.
No IMS DTCs P1820, P1822, P1823 or P1825.
No TCC PWM solenoid valve DTC P1860.
The engine run time is greater than 5 seconds.
The engine is not in fuel cut off.
The time since the gear select lever change is greater than 6 seconds.
The IMS indicates D2, D3 or D4.
The transmission gear ratio indicates 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear.
The transmission fluid temperature is 20-133°C (68-271°F).
The throttle angle is 10-50%.
The engine torque is 43-215 N·m (32-159 lb ft).
The TCC solenoid valve is commanded ON.


The computer looks for a certain range of slippage based on calculated torque values. If it sees too much slip speed it does this:


Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the second consecutive trip in which the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met.
The PCM inhibits 4th gear if the transmission is in hot mode.
The PCM records the operating conditions when the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met. The PCM stores this information as Freeze Frame and Failure Records.
The PCM stores DTC P0741 in PCM history during the second consecutive trip in which the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met.


I would advise getting it repaired.

johnjr
12-15-05, 05:30 PM
Thanks for the response.I realize at some point the repair will have to be done.Right now,the car does operate in overdrive and shifts smoothly.If I delay the repair until later (I'm sure it will be several $1000),can any additional damage occur?I may as well wait until I have no choice.

ewill3rd
12-15-05, 06:26 PM
Well slippage usually means heat, heat is not good but the computer is designed to cope with it by doing other things.
You might notice some funny shifting and get tired of looking at the light.
There are a couple of options, you can get what we call a SRTA (gm rebuilt trans) or get that one overhauled. If it's got some mileage on it you might want them to go through the whole thing. Someone local might offer a good deal on a rebuilt with a decent warranty.
I think a SRTA comes with a 3 year 50k warranty. If I had to guess I'd say you are looking at about $3k. A repair of the TCC system might be cheaper but how many miles are we talking about?

johnjr
12-15-05, 07:58 PM
The mileage on the car is 135,000.The thing that bugs me is who wants to put 3k into a car thats worth 4k,I cannot see myself doing that.It seems more logical to drive it until it dies and then sell it for whatever I can.That is why I will probably let it go and hopefully will be alright for a while.I only seem to get the code in the morning when the car is cold,but after it warms up I does not display the p0741.In reading through this forum,some say that it may be a sticking solenoid.Is there an additive that might help or could a fluid change be of any benefit?

donclericuzio
12-20-05, 10:15 PM
I am finally up and running, I had a guy come over and he said he would rebuild my started if need be. It turns out that wasnt the case. He went through all of my fuses and everything, but there was this one like terminal where I think connections from the starter and alternator are made, and he said that was corroded all to hell. he cleans that up real good, and then frees up my starter. And now she is starting everytime just fine. Which is great, but since not driving her for three months and now doing so...I started noticing other little things about it that I didnt like, for one, it rides like shit defiantely not like a caddy should. Two, the transmission gets on my nerves, Ill explain what it does: Ok, I take off from a cold start and the tranny seems like it wants to rev high going all the way to like 4500rpms before wanting to shift into second, this is at regular crusing speeds, then once I give it more gas then usual it shifts alright into second, and it seems like if Im not constantly giving it gas it wants to down shift and go in a lower gear. That annoys the hell outta me I think its the input speed sensor. My car is sitting just shy of 190K and Im tired of dealing with it I want to buy a 99 STS for 8K I need to get rid of this one first, what are your opinions about what I should ask for it????? It has 189K no rust, all power options still working, premium chrome wheels, nothing stock on the audio system, extremely nice interior, and some minor hail damage to the exterior. Also could use some other work. I would love to get 5K for it but I know alot of people would be scared of the mileage. Please let me know your info?????

Dooman
12-21-05, 09:13 AM
I can not help you set a price, or tell you what a 99 is worth, I am biased. I'd sell my 99STS right about now for $3000. Can't wait to move on from this vehicle. I've now got my sights on an SRT-8 Chrysler.