: i cant stand this stalling, why does this happen?



fpmesiIII
12-02-05, 10:05 PM
i have a 96 sts with 139k on it. the vehicle stalls after about 15-20 minutes of driving at stoplights. it will happen once and after that it is usually fine for rest of the drive. it seems like it is happening more often. i had the FPR replaced. i had the idle air control replaced ($100 bucks), and it still stalls. my buddy said i had leaky injectors thats why my car starts hard. but why does my car stall at stoplights? professional help needed. thanks

thu
12-02-05, 10:34 PM
I suppose no codes were thrown?

fpmesiIII
12-02-05, 10:42 PM
yeah, its code free.

eldorado1
12-03-05, 12:06 AM
It only stalls coming to a stop, and it only stalls when warm?

And you don't even have a "engine stall" code?

chevelle
12-03-05, 12:13 AM
How about a simple throttle body cleaning?? Hold the throttle blade wide open and clean the gunk off the perimeter of the throttle body bore and backside of the throttle blade. Possibly the deposit buildup on the throttle body bore and blade is blocking air flow at the closed bore position throwing off the idle air rate gains....

fpmesiIII
12-03-05, 01:52 AM
yeah it only stalls when the vehicle is stopped at a light and when it is warm. and no codes show.

ill have to try the throttle body cleaning. not sure how to do it. like where it is located and everything

auroradude
12-03-05, 02:59 AM
egr valve. mine used to do that when my egr was bad. You would be tapping the gas lightly, and then hittnig the breaks and it will stall right as you stop at the light. Or it will stall when going 85 on the highway like it did to me once. If there had been a lot of people on the road i for sure wouldve crashed. I just barely made it past the guardrail with no powersteering.

fpmesiIII
12-03-05, 11:27 AM
it doesnt stall when driving. only while idling. ill give the throttle body cleaning a shot today and if that doesnt fix it ill move on to the EGR.

eldorado1
12-03-05, 11:41 AM
well if there's no "stall detected" code, then it's not stalling. :thepan:

you might want to check your battery connections.

Ranger
12-03-05, 11:54 AM
ill have to try the throttle body cleaning. not sure how to do it. like where it is located and everything
USe the search feature. It has been discribed many times in detail. Very easy job.

fpmesiIII
12-03-05, 01:31 PM
i just got back from carquest. i purchased a spray can of gum out carb and choke cleaner. i just read the back and it said not reccomended for fuel injected. use gum out air intake and throttle body. is the carb and choke cleaner finer or should i return it and look for the air intake and throttle body version?

fpmesiIII
12-03-05, 03:26 PM
i returned the product and bought the correct cleaner. now i am having trouble getting off the 3rd screw from the bottom. the 1st two were fine but the bottom screw seems very difficult to reach any suggestions on how to remove it?

mramazingman
12-03-05, 07:18 PM
Had the exact same problem except my mpg decreased from 20+ to around 17.5/18.0.My 2000 Deville stalled at lights and stop signs with no codes to pull.This went on for about a month or so.I did a search on crankcase position sensors and learned that prior to 2002 the sensors were of poor quality.I picked up the upper and lower at autozone for around $100.00 dollars.The sensors are located behind the center motor mount (had to support the engine to remove mount.) My car now runs like it should and gas mileage has returned to 20/21 combined.Hope this helps,Good luck

fpmesiIII
12-03-05, 09:26 PM
yeah my gas mileage is around 20+. im hoping the throttle body fixes it. but i cant do it because the bottom screw is so hard to reach. can someone tell me how to remove the bottom screw. i can do the top 2 fine, but the bottom one is causing me trouble.

EcSTSatic
12-03-05, 10:56 PM
yeah it only stalls when the vehicle is stopped at a light and when it is warm. and no codes show.

So nothing is taken for granted: You mean you actually tried to extract the codes right? You aren't thinking that they appear when an error occurs? Not meaning to insult anyone's intelligence. We all come here with different knowledge levels about cars.

fpmesiIII
12-04-05, 12:20 AM
well i guess i havent really checked when it stalled, because i was trying to get the car started again. but no check engine light comes on. and if i go and check for codes now, all of them are in history. next time it stalls i will pull the codes after i get it started again, while driving and see if there is any current codes.

eldorado1
12-04-05, 12:27 AM
history codes are still codes.

WoodShoe
12-04-05, 04:23 AM
I had the exact poblem u describe. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me. Checked for leaky injectors, they were fine. Took out the EGR (which is a royal pain in the neck!) it was spotless. I suggest u leave that till the end, since it takes a long long time taking that one bolt off if you dont want to disconnect the fuel lines. Whoever designed that thing is a $$%@** Also checked the FPR, it is fine. The only code I got was a "Stall or Near stall Detected", in history. It did this only coming to a stop, maybe once or twice a week, and would start right up after. I finally took it to the dealer because I was out of ideas. They were also stumped and just ended cleaning out the TB which was supposedly all gunked up on the inside. (looked clean just looking at it through the intake) It has not stalled yet, but I have not really had a chance to drive it around much. It does seem more responsive, but there is so much bloody snow here I cant really test that out either :rant2:. Good luck.

mcowden
12-04-05, 02:55 PM
I am assuming the thing just dies with no warning. Does it sputter and die or idle real low and die, or does it just run perfectly one second and it's dead the next?

If the PCM isn't throwing the stall code, that could be because it isn't detecting the stall. The misfire and stall are detected using data from the crank position sensors if I remember right. If those are not working properly, they might not detect the stall and therefore no codes would be displayed. My vote is for the crank position sensors. If it doesn't sputter and die, I don't see how the EGR could be the problem. Of course I'm always open to suggestions, but right now there's nothing that says to me the EGR would be the problem.

eldorado1
12-04-05, 03:07 PM
If the PCM isn't throwing the stall code

I think it is, he just isn't telling us... :thepan:

fpmesiIII
12-04-05, 05:23 PM
it runs perfectly (idles) one second and it's dead the next. it idles around 500rpm. i believe that is normal though.

here are the list of codes i just pulled from it. only 3 came up

PC0717 History
PC1599 History
PC1626 History

mcowden
12-04-05, 05:52 PM
it runs perfectly (idles) one second and it's dead the next. it idles around 500rpm. i believe that is normal though.

here are the list of codes i just pulled from it. only 3 came up

PC0717 History
PC1599 History
PC1626 History

It is detecting the stall, so the crank position sensors might be OK. Idle at 500 RPM is low. It should be a little higher than that. Perhaps the ISC is going or gone. You really should get the throttle body cleaned first though. The bottom screw isn't that bad. I have never used more than a 1/4" ratchet and 7mm socket on a 6" extension. Kind of hard to see, but you can get it by feel. Cleaning the TB is the necessary next step in my mind.

fpmesiIII
12-04-05, 06:03 PM
sounds good mcowden, thanks for everyones help and patience. oh yeah we just put a new idle speed control valve on it didnt help. one of these days i will get that bottom screw off and clean her out. i will reply with the results. i hope cleaning the throttle body fixes it.