: Escalade speaker upgrade



06BlueChip
11-05-05, 09:12 PM
Hey I have a 2006 Escalade and I want to upgrade the speakers in the doors but i have no clue how to remove the door panels to change the speakers. Can you guys tell me how to remove the door panels?

Thanks

skides1
11-05-05, 10:33 PM
Your truck has a Bose system-I am not sure about the NBS but the speakers cannot be simply replaced- a complete Revamp of the systme is required often resulting in reduced sound quality. The most popular upgrade is to add a sub with an adaptor. Search exhisting threads for your answer.

hilldo
11-07-05, 05:28 PM
Yep...I added infinity 10 baselink subs and am pretty happy with the addition. The bose components keep up with the bass just fine since all the component speakers already cross out the sub frequencies to the sub under the console.

Do a search for adding the rca line converter...

fast66
11-07-05, 07:00 PM
do a search, I already gave detailed instructions for how to remove the door panels and front stereo.

06BlueChip
11-09-05, 08:27 PM
ok, I guess i'll just add a subwoofer to that compartment in my trunk. Can I fit a 8-inch JL W7 sub in that opening? The sub has a mounting depth of 6.83 inches (173 mm). What amp do you think I will need to run the 8W7? It is a 1000 watt sub. Also how can I make a custom box behind the compartment to seal my sub?

Thanks a lot.

csmooth79
11-09-05, 09:03 PM
One word ... Fiberglass. It would work if you are willing to lose everthing over there (i.e. jack, compartment, etc..) b/c of all the airspace requirements.

I would leave it up to a professional, just my 2 cents

skides1
11-09-05, 09:39 PM
A sub rated that high as far as power handling indicates an extremely "tight" suspension. I am guessing but this type of sub is designed for small enclosures-1 cubic foot or less. I prefer a sealed setup for tight bass response. Unfortunately, it will be very inefficient as far as sensitivity and the higher the amplifier output the better. I would feel comfortable pushing 2000 watts plus- real RMS- to an 8ohm version of this sub because it sounds very durable and power "clipping" (distortion) is what burns voicecoils. SInce 2000 watts is unpractical, much less 1000 given your concern for space, you might want to rethink your sub choice. A 1000 watt amp is huge, especially if you want high current quality components. So, logic would suggest a suggest a moderate 10 inch sub in about a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure with an amp rated at double its capacity for best results. There used to be a 10w4 JL that would almost kill a person with a Rockford Punch 200 wired in parellel with 2 subs. Precision Power amps are my fav but they are designed for multiple drivers and fancy ohm control. I now run an xtant mono block sub amp 100x1 into a custom dual voice coil Punch HX2 sub with great results- just a rant. Do your homework.- This only cost about 600 bucks and rivals my home system. Moral of the story- a higher priced sub does not a better system make

Sky High Ent.
11-09-05, 10:01 PM
I have one of those Shallow Pioneer 12's in a Pioneer box. Fits perfect behind the third row. Easy to take out as well, very small and powerful.
Also upgraded to a Pioneer Avic n2 navi unit and Alpine Type R components for the doors. Running A Fosgate P4004 for the doors and P2002 for the Sub. Sounds great, not too much boom either. I'm gettin too old for that.
I had my local pro audio guys hook it up for me.
Here's a pic of the sub in my truck
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Skyhighent/66298c49.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Skyhighent/483f3e53.jpg

CAD-E!
06-27-06, 01:11 AM
do a search, I already gave detailed instructions for how to remove the door panels and front stereo.

i just did the search on how to remove the door panels and your instructions didnt come up.

fast66
06-27-06, 02:00 AM
here it is in a nutshell
1. search for the screws to take out, there should be two. They should be in obvious places like the handle and stuff. Its different thom the 02(mine) models.
2. take of the plastic that covers the inside door handle
3. if its the front door, take off the triangle near the tweeters.
4. Next just slide the door up and it should pop off.
5. last take off all the electric stuff, which are all just male plugs. They are all clipped on, so just compress the clip and they will come off.

not hard to do, once you get one off the rest will be easy.

CAD-E!
06-28-06, 09:08 PM
thanks alot fast66!!

fast66
06-29-06, 12:28 AM
thanks alot fast66!!
just follow the directions backwards when putting it back on.