: 2001 Deville: Won't stay running while in drive

08-05-14, 10:57 PM
Idle is mildly rough, but can't even drive forward without stalling, seems to drive fine in reverse. (Doesn't make sense.) Getting code RIM C0660 (Level control exhaust valve circuit malfunction) and IPM0429 (Temp control #3 circuit range/performance). I don't think the second code is a problem, but I am not sure about the 0660 code. Previous owner sold it cheap because they had done countless things trying to fix it but was unsuccessful. I can't help but think it is something simple, that's why I thought it would be a good investment. Does anyone have any clue what might be going on?

08-06-14, 08:51 AM
Level Control refers to (Acronyms ^^^) ALC/ELC problems - the system which compensates for extra weight in the trunk or rear seat.

The B 0429 is the blend door for air to the back seat HVAC console.

Absent codes, you're in the hands-on diagnostic mode. Hard to guess in the dark. Ignition, air, fuel, vacuum...........

Hmmm ............ ANY air leak in the intake ducting at or after the divorced MAF will cause a lousy idle and poor driveability.

How far does the engine rock rearward when you place the stick in D, hold the brake, and give it a little gas ?

I removed your identical post from a long-dead thread. Let this thread work for you. Thanks.

08-06-14, 10:00 AM
OK in reverse, but stalls in drive with no P codes? :hmm: :bonkers:

08-06-14, 11:07 AM
maybe start with basics, inspecting vacuum lines, clean throttle body and IAC, maybe check/replace plenum and intake gaskets. Fuel Filter?
Without knowing what the previous owners did to it. I hope they didn't do any MIRACLE potions. I bought a 2000 Tahoe last month just to resell,
I was having trouble getting it to run properly before I found out that previous owner had added "Fuel Mileage Pills" 2 months before it quit running.
I assume you don't have a nest in the air filter box.

08-06-14, 09:06 PM
I am waiting on a list of things that were done so I am not re-fixing things that are not the problem. I did check the obvious this such as air flow and tested the function of the MAF sensor. I do know the plenum has not yet been changed based on the look of the clamp, (Assuming it comes with the new one). I have had a few people and a local mechanic say that the converter could be plugged up in the tail pipe. He loaned a gauge to my friend so we could check by removing the O2 sensor and see what the pressure was. He said if it read 4 lbs or more then it was plugged up. It read "0 psi". I could only find one sensor. Shouldn't there be two? If so where is the second one? Also, if it was plugged, wouldn't I get a code of some sort?

08-07-14, 08:51 AM
Your 2001 engine has 3 O2 sensors -

Bank 2 = Left (front bank) 2-4-6-8
Bank 1 = Right (rear bank) 1-3-5-7

Bank 2 Sensor 1 is in the exhaust manifold collector
Bank 1 sensor 1 is in the top of the exhaust manifold
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is in the side of the after-cat pipe.

If you tested at the after-cat sensor bung you have tested nothing. The other (pre-cat) two are an unholy bitch to get to.

Yes, a new plenum comes with attached clamp and 3 welded nuts on the flange - long bolts through throttlebody.

More pictures and diagrams of your engine and parts in my albums - click my username, open the profile; left column, 2 albums 6 pages of stuff.

08-07-14, 09:41 AM
Here is a list of things that were done by the previous owner. Torque Converter, MAP Sensor, Plugs & Boots, Head Gaskets and Coil Packs. None of these have been a question to me.

08-07-14, 11:13 AM
If you are concerned about the CAT, read this.

08-08-14, 11:54 AM
Here is a list of things that were done by the previous owner. Torque Converter, MAP Sensor, Plugs & Boots, Head Gaskets and Coil Packs. None of these have been a question to me.

Thats quite a list. ALOT of room for mistakes with that much work being done.

Just how CHEAP did you get it for?

Hard to believe there are no codes.

08-09-14, 01:15 PM
Here is a list of things that were done by the previous owner. Torque Converter, MAP Sensor, Plugs & Boots, Head Gaskets and Coil Packs. None of these have been a question to me.
the one thing that is fairly common -
and could cause the stalling -
and SOMETIMES does NOT set a code -
are are KNOWN to be bad parts -

crankshaft position sensors -

the original units were "made in Mexico" - and they failed -
the GOOD units are "made in Japan"

ACDelco 213-1578 - $40.86 - with free shipping -
from amazon.com -
and -
ACDelco 213-1579 - $42.44 - with free shipping -
also from amazon.com

08-15-14, 01:27 PM
I had a friend of mine take the car on his rollback to a friend of his who has a professional reader (not a NAPA $89.99) and hooked it up and only fault he got was a bad MAP sensor. He said a plugged converter would cause that fault. I hope he's right. The friend and I are planning on cutting it off in the morning.....fingers crossed. And to answer the previous question .."how cheap did I get it for?" Answer is real cheap....is a sharp looking car, in a A++ condition, other than the part about it running....lol. As far as the crankshaft sensor, that was my first guess when I bought it. However, my F-350 Diesel did have an issue with one and it would run fine, but would just shut off unannounced while driving down the highway. I replaced it with an International Harvester and hadn't had an issue with it since. Will let everyone know how it turns out after the weekend.

08-15-14, 02:05 PM
DO NOT cut the CAT off. Just unbolt it and tie it up for a test run. If it's not the problem you can bolt it right back on. Cut it off and the PCM will be getting false data and trying to correct for it as well as setting a permanent SES light and code.

08-16-14, 01:47 PM
Converter was Plugged!!! Yeah!!! Disconnected as above.....Started it and ran it down the road, no issues. Cut and welded a new one on and runs like a new one. Thanks for everything guys.

08-16-14, 04:50 PM
Glad you found the issue and that you posted it... Most do not so we don't find resolution.

08-16-14, 08:49 PM
:thumbsup: Thanks for the feedback