07-29-14, 05:11 PM
I suspect one of my valve lash adjusters is faulty. I would like to like to replace the adjuster without removing the front cover. Does anyone have a technique to retaining the timing chain and keep the timing chain tensioner from ratcheting out?
07-29-14, 05:23 PM
Why do you think one lash adjuster is bad?
Once the slack is removed the tensioner is automatically going to ratchet out.......
07-29-14, 06:12 PM
Some judicious work with strong black wire ties clamping the chain to the sprocket should do it. Otherwise, microsurgery with LONG needlenose pliers to insert the pins into the tensioner holes that are there specifically for this purpose.
If you are fooling with the left bank (front) intake cam, the water pump drive pulley and end seal throw more crap in the game.
High mileage between oil/filter changes ? Slow driven city car ???
Other way around: Once tension is removed, the tensioners ratchet out.
07-30-14, 12:10 PM
I suspect faulty adjuster since I just finished HG and valve lapping job. When reassembling the head I noticed oil leaked out from one of the adjusters however I reused the adjuster. Now I have a rather loud when cold and softer but noticeable when warm single noise from the rear head. The oil was changed once a year at around 4,000 miles for the past 11 years that we have owned it. This is my wife's city car however I drive it often at WOT. I was dreading working on the rear head but Submariner's comment regarding water pump drive pulley on the front head made me feel better. "Whatever you do, the cam has to come out and the valve(s) need to be compressed so you can remove the roller follower." Is there method to compress the valves with the head still on the block?
07-30-14, 01:21 PM
Bad choice of words - once the cam is out there's nothing holding that set of followers or adjusters - I let "valve stem seal" creep into my typing finger brain.
Corrected my mistake in the post.
07-30-14, 03:03 PM
Thanks for the update Master Chief.