: Long crank startups



weister42
10-18-05, 09:38 AM
If my N* takes long cranks to start(sometimes) otherwise runs perfect, what does this mean? Replaced plugs & wires and fuel filter, cleaned injectors, checked the battery and FPR. Since the FPR is a common failure part should I replace it anyway? My mpg is great.

zonie77
10-18-05, 11:20 AM
When you checked the FPR was there any evidence of gas? just the strong odor? Couple of guys used the hand held vacuum pumps and saw a leak that they didn't find just by checking. If you're thinking of building up some tools the hand pumps are really handy at times.

mcowden
10-18-05, 11:22 AM
If my N* takes long cranks to start(sometimes) otherwise runs perfect, what does this mean? Replaced plugs & wires and fuel filter, cleaned injectors, checked the battery and FPR. Since the FPR is a common failure part should I replace it anyway? My mpg is great.

When I put Bosch plugs in my car a long time ago, it never started very well until I changed them with good plugs. If you put Bosch platinums in there, replace them with the 41-950 Delcos and I'd bet your car will start much better.

If you don't have access to a handheld vacuum pump to test the FPR, see if you can locate one and hook it up to the FPR. If it holds a vacuum, it's ok. If not, replace it. I checked mine probably 10 times and it never leaked but I had starting problems. I put a vacuum on it and it wouldn't hold. Replaced the FPR and now it starts almost instantly.

EcSTSatic
10-18-05, 12:17 PM
Most likely the FPR. It fixed my hard start problem when nothing else was showing. They seem to be problematic. Any codes?

weister42
10-18-05, 07:39 PM
Ya it did throw codes after this one night, but the check engine light went away by itself two days after. I was cranking my stereo real loud that night so that might have something to do with it. The codes are PO106 and PO606. I have AC-Delco plugs and NAPA's best wire but I didn't "gap" the plugs. Car was fine until recently, soon after I installed a stereo.

Ranger
10-18-05, 08:59 PM
Car was fine until recently, soon after I installed a stereo.
That is a big red flag.

You should always check the gap on new plugs.

weister42
10-19-05, 03:47 PM
Well if the gaping for plugs are wrong then shouldn't the problem occur right after I put them in? They were installed more than 6 months ago and have about 5000 miles on them. I took out my stereo leaving only the headunit and a 4 channel amp but I still have long cranks every so often.

How do I replace a FPR? I'm going to try that first.

Ranger
10-19-05, 05:24 PM
Yes, if the plug gaps where way off, it would have shown up immediately. I just mention checking the gaps on new plugs before installation as a matter of fact.

Test the FPR before replacing it. No sense in replacing good parts. If you need to R & R it, depressurize the fuel system, pull the vacuum hose off and then pull the "U" shaped retainer that holds it in the rail. There should be an "O" ring in there to seal it. Pay atention to it and if a new one comes with the new FPR, make sure the old one comes out. Lube the "O" ring with a drop or two of engine oil or easy assembly.

weister42
11-01-05, 02:08 PM
Turns out my stereo has nothing to do with it, and my car only has long cranks if it has been sitting for half an hour or so, otherwise it starts fine. Checked battery, alt, fuel filter/injector, plugs & wires changed 8 months ago, just changed the fuel pump relay today. I think it is the FPR but I don't have time to take a look at it. How do I go about checking the FPR again? I don't have any fancy tools:)

zonie77
11-01-05, 02:16 PM
The instructions are in the tech tips section.

weister42
11-02-05, 11:26 AM
I called the dealership to order the FPR and they said they need to know if my fuel rail is nylon or metal (braided steel maybe?). I'm going to check it today.

mcowden
11-02-05, 11:46 AM
I called the dealership to order the FPR and they said they need to know if my fuel rail is nylon or metal (braided steel maybe?). I'm going to check it today.

If you have a '98, I think those were nylon fuel rails, but you should check to be sure nonetheless. The dealership is going to charge you through the nose for the part. You can get the same part for a lot less money from www.rockauto.com or www.gmpartsdirect.com. You'll still need to know which fuel rail you have. Installation of the new FPR takes about 5 minutes start to finish and the effects are immediate.

Let us know what you do and how it works out... Save yourself the bux and get it somewhere else, too!

Ranger
11-02-05, 12:36 PM
I called the dealership to order the FPR and they said they need to know if my fuel rail is nylon or metal (braided steel maybe?). I'm going to check it today.
'95 - '97 were recalled and the nylon rails were replaced with stainless steel. Yours is most likely still nylon.

weister42
11-04-05, 09:19 AM
Not to sound dumb but I see two rails coming out of the FPR and they are silver...so I think it's stainless steel.

Ranger
11-04-05, 12:30 PM
Hmm, '98 was not included in the recall and I believe still had the nylon rails. That doesn't mean that someone did not replace them at their own cost, either out of precaution or because of a leak.

mcowden
11-04-05, 01:41 PM
Not to sound dumb but I see two rails coming out of the FPR and they are silver...so I think it's stainless steel.

The rail makes a big C shape, connecting to the top of all the fuel injectors. Is that what you're saying is metal? Normally it would be black plastic on your car. I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to clarify so you will know which FPR part number to get.