Hey guys, I know this probably belongs in the classifieds but I thought I should give you guys the first hop. I'm looking to sell my Eibach Pro-Kit lowering spring set; it's new in the box, never installed. I was going to install them so I could take my car out to autocross but turns out that's not going to happen; so this kit has just been sitting on my floor for three months or so. I got them from Lund in July. Asking around $200 shipped obo. Anybody interested? Looking to sell ASAP. Send me a PM. Here's a couple pics.
pic (http://teamkeke.nuclearfallout.net/pics/eibach/2.JPG)
pic (http://teamkeke.nuclearfallout.net/pics/eibach/3.JPG)

Thanks.

hmm. do i need anything else besides these springs for a 03 3.2L cts? and spring rates, and how low will i go? mucho thanks

hmm. do i need anything else besides these springs for a 03 3.2L cts? and spring rates, and how low will i go? mucho thanks

The kit will work on '03's, I'm pretty sure Ody has done it. You really only need the springs, they're progressive rate and will set you down 1.2".

hmm. do i need anything else besides these springs for a 03 3.2L cts? and spring rates, and how low will i go? mucho thanks

What part of NorCal you from? I'm up in Palo Alto.

hmm. do i need anything else besides these springs for a 03 3.2L cts? and spring rates, and how low will i go? mucho thanks

The Eibachs are advertised to lower the CTS 1.2" front and back. If you've got the self leveling Nivomat rear shocks (come with the HID headlights), you'll need to change them out. If you have the normal Halogen headlights, you've got normal rear shocks, and need nothing else.

IEibach recommends going to the CTS Sport shock so the rear will lower. Otherwise it will self level back to the full ride height in the rear. I had Nivomats, but upgraded to the FE4 shocks from the CTS-V, since the Eibach spring rates are within 3% of the stock V spring rates. The V nivomats can be taken apart, and spacers added to get them to sit 1" lower. Do a search on 'Nivomat Mod' over in the V forum for more info.

I actually shimmed my Eibachs up about a quarter inch in the front, so my car sits more level, and the tires are centered in the wheel well. If you didn't know it was lowered, it simply looks like the sport option should have looked from the factory.

What do these do to the ride quality? I assume it gets a little firmer, but is it still good for daily driving? How much improvement in handling do you see?

It's definitely more firm, but certainly not harsh. Mine is likely due more to the FE4 shocks than the springs. Basically, it's all 'sport', and and not 'luxury'. It handles more more crisp now, but doesn't bump over every seam in the road, like those lowered Civics you see.

The Eibachs are advertised to lower the CTS 1.2" front and back. If you've got the self leveling Nivomat rear shocks (come with the HID headlights), you'll need to change them out. If you have the normal Halogen headlights, you've got normal rear shocks, and need nothing else.

IEibach recommends going to the CTS Sport shock so the rear will lower. Otherwise it will self level back to the full ride height in the rear. I had Nivomats, but upgraded to the FE4 shocks from the CTS-V, since the Eibach spring rates are within 3% of the stock V spring rates. The V nivomats can be taken apart, and spacers added to get them to sit 1" lower. Do a search on 'Nivomat Mod' over in the V forum for more info.

I actually shimmed my Eibachs up about a quarter inch in the front, so my car sits more level, and the tires are centered in the wheel well. If you didn't know it was lowered, it simply looks like the sport option should have looked from the factory.

ODY,
You're no longer recommending using the nivomats by tweaking the mounting?

Robert, I think that he did do that with the FE4 suspension. I thought that the regular sport suspension could not be "tweaked" due to housing at the top of the shock...

hmm. so should i get some FE4 which sound great, or can i just stick with my stock shocks? i dont have nivomats, so it wont self level correct?

The Eibachs are advertised to lower the CTS 1.2" front and back. If you've got the self leveling Nivomat rear shocks (come with the HID headlights), you'll need to change them out. If you have the normal Halogen headlights, you've got normal rear shocks, and need nothing else.

IEibach recommends going to the CTS Sport shock so the rear will lower. Otherwise it will self level back to the full ride height in the rear. I had Nivomats, but upgraded to the FE4 shocks from the CTS-V, since the Eibach spring rates are within 3% of the stock V spring rates. The V nivomats can be taken apart, and spacers added to get them to sit 1" lower. Do a search on 'Nivomat Mod' over in the V forum for more info.

I actually shimmed my Eibachs up about a quarter inch in the front, so my car sits more level, and the tires are centered in the wheel well. If you didn't know it was lowered, it simply looks like the sport option should have looked from the factory.

Yes, that's one huge thing I forgot to mention so big thanks to Ody for bringing it up.

So if youre poor like me, you could just install these springs and leave the shocks alone, right (I dont have the self-leveling shocks, as far as I know...)? Hmmm...exhaust...or springs...thats a tough question... Is this an install that could be done easily enough with a floor jack and basic tools, or would I be better off paying someone who actually knows what theyre doing?

So if youre poor like me, you could just install these springs and leave the shocks alone, right (I dont have the self-leveling shocks, as far as I know...)? Hmmm...exhaust...or springs...thats a tough question... Is this an install that could be done easily enough with a floor jack and basic tools, or would I be better off paying someone who actually knows what theyre doing?

Yes, a lot of people just do the springs alone. Doing the install yourself is basically up to you and if you think it's something you would want to do. I would try to get access to a lift, saves time and safer that way. But if you do use a floor jack, make sure you do it with two so you can have both wheels off the ground front or back. There were a few good threads on lowering with Eibach's from a little while ago, and Ody did a really good write-up in one of the threads on installation, he might be the go-to guy for this one. Check them out, they might be helpful.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41433
(http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41433)http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42198
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45923

So if youre poor like me, you could just install these springs and leave the shocks alone, right (I dont have the self-leveling shocks, as far as I know...)? Hmmm...exhaust...or springs...thats a tough question... Is this an install that could be done easily enough with a floor jack and basic tools, or would I be better off paying someone who actually knows what theyre doing?

If you have the Spt/Lux Pkg you have them. If you have them and use the springs it fits OK but the rear of the car sets up too high. There are some kits available to lower it back down with the nivomats.

If you have the non-load leveling springs, installing Eibachs is a breeze. They also include some new bumpstops in the kit for the base shocks.

I've still got my FE3 nivomats in the garage. When I have some time, I will try to see if we can do the same WildWhl spacer mod, from the inside. the difference is that the spacer that's removed from the V shocks is external to the plastic tube, it's integral to the tube and top pillow mount on the FE3's. The tube/top pillow come off as a unit, but I'll see if there's an easy way to pull the bump stop, and remove the spacer (if it is separate from the bump stop).

I spent last weekend removing my FE4's, pulling them back apart, so I can photo document the parts and process. Pietro may offer his services to cast some polyurathane spacers for this, since he has access to the tooling to do so. It would save forum members a lot of trial and error, trying to do it themselves.

I also spent part of last week photo documenting a factory-like XM install, including fabricating and installing your own harness (rather than spending $300 for a kit). Unfortunately, my Nav doesn't allow XM as an option (after two hours at the dealer trying to activate the option with the Tech-2). It may be time to upgrade to a DVD nav, since I also have a jammed 6 disk changer.

Believe it or not, I actually find time to work too. :)

Ody if u ever consider selling those FE3 Nivomats let me know. I want to install FE3's before I increase my rim size. Currently have the base shock set up.

I'd like to drop an inch but there are so many issues and I refuse to give up my nivomats. A time will come.:D

If you have the non-load leveling springs, installing Eibachs is a breeze. They also include some new bumpstops in the kit for the base shocks.

I've still got my FE3 nivomats in the garage. When I have some time, I will try to see if we can do the same WildWhl spacer mod, from the inside. the difference is that the spacer that's removed from the V shocks is external to the plastic tube, it's integral to the tube and top pillow mount on the FE3's. The tube/top pillow come off as a unit, but I'll see if there's an easy way to pull the bump stop, and remove the spacer (if it is separate from the bump stop).

I spent last weekend removing my FE4's, pulling them back apart, so I can photo document the parts and process. Pietro may offer his services to cast some polyurathane spacers for this, since he has access to the tooling to do so. It would save forum members a lot of trial and error, trying to do it themselves.

I also spent part of last week photo documenting a factory-like XM install, including fabricating and installing your own harness (rather than spending $300 for a kit). Unfortunately, my Nav doesn't allow XM as an option (after two hours at the dealer trying to activate the option with the Tech-2). It may be time to upgrade to a DVD nav, since I also have a jammed 6 disk changer.

Believe it or not, I actually find time to work too. :)

Ody, why are you such a genius? :)

I'm not knowledgable in the "suspension" department but I tried to answer my questions by searching other threads, and have only confused myself further. I see a lot of people talking about FE3's, FE4's, "nivomats", self-leveling and normal shocks, and have no idea what youre talking about. It was mentioned "if you have the halogen high-beam lights, you have the normal rear shocks" so that seems to be where I sit right now. Would it be worth-while for me to swap out my stock springs for the Eibachs without messing with the shocks? I'm running stock wheels/tires and definately dont like so much open space between them and the fenders. It sounds like the ride will be stiffer but still within reason, how's the difference in handling, is it noticable? Finally, in another thread a couple of members warned against lowering for fear of bottoming out on potholes and speed bumps. I contend with both on a daily basis so has this been a problem for those of you with this mod? I live in Indiana so I'll have to deaL with snow at least once during the winter, has anyone noticed a problem in that respect?

Sorry for all the "stupid noob" questions, like I said I tried to search for the answers and wasnt getting anywhere. Thanks everyone!

Ody - I saw pics of your cts while running my search, sweet ride man!

Yeah i confused myself too! haha

wait, if i have the luxury/sport package, then i have nivomats?? Thus, i must get the FE4 shocks and struts correct?

Ody, why are you such a genius? :)

Oh my..You're gonna give Ody the Big Head!:bighead:

I'm not knowledgable in the "suspension" department but I tried to answer my questions by searching other threads, and have only confused myself further. I see a lot of people talking about FE3's, FE4's, "nivomats", self-leveling and normal shocks, and have no idea what youre talking about. It was mentioned "if you have the halogen high-beam lights, you have the normal rear shocks" so that seems to be where I sit right now.

The self leveling shocks were included with the HID option so one doesn't blind oncoming traffic with three football players in the back seat! LOL. FE3 is the option code for the sport suspension on the CTS that includes the nivomat self leveling shocks. FE4 is the same thing, but for the CTS-V, and is stiffer than the CTS damping rates. FG2 is the code for the even stiffer optional nivomats for the V. The V nivomats are subtley different from the normal CTS's. On the CTS, the top pillow mount is integral to the upper tube and spacer, whereas the V's disassembles. I've got pictures on my home computer I can post that show the difference.

If you have the normal suspension (this means you'll have halogen headlights), you have either FE1 or FE2 RPO code suspension, with normal shocks. The Eibachs work perfectly with these. Nivomats all require a little modification to get them to lower, since they're self leveling. I'm going to take apart an FE3 (non-V CTS Nivomat) this weekend, and see if a similar mod is possible. If it works, I'll send a letter to Eibach with pictures and instructions, to let them know they need to modify their kits.

The self leveling shocks were included with the HID option so one doesn't blind oncoming traffic with three football players in the back seat! LOL. FE3 is the option code for the sport suspension on the CTS that includes the nivomat self leveling shocks. FE4 is the same thing, but for the CTS-V, and is stiffer than the CTS damping rates. FG2 is the code for the even stiffer optional nivomats for the V. The V nivomats are subtley different from the normal CTS's. On the CTS, the top pillow mount is integral to the upper tube and spacer, whereas the V's disassembles. I've got pictures on my home computer I can post that show the difference.

If you have the normal suspension (this means you'll have halogen headlights), you have either FE1 or FE2 RPO code suspension, with normal shocks. The Eibachs work perfectly with these. Nivomats all require a little modification to get them to lower, since they're self leveling. I'm going to take apart an FE3 (non-V CTS Nivomat) this weekend, and see if a similar mod is possible. If it works, I'll send a letter to Eibach with pictures and instructions, to let them know they need to modify their kits.

Ok, thanks. You also mentioned shimming the front to make your car sit more level, was that because of your nivomats, or is mine going to sit lower in the front as well even with standard shocks?

Nah. I just didn't want to go as low as most folks on the front. With the Nivomat mod you won't get the full 1.2" drop in the rear. I think I got around 1". My rear originally sat about an inch higher than the front, so I only wanted to get closer to level. I ended up right around there, with about 1/2" of rake. You wouldn't even know it's been lowered if no-one said anything! It looks like it should, but not too low.

There were also some issues about potentially pushing the alignment adjustability limit. At about 0.8" drop in the front and about 1" in the rear, mine aligned fine, front and back. 1.2" is almost a half inch more drop. I don't want to give up that much. The V Eibachs drom 1.6" in the front. Way too low, IMHO.

Ok, I just wanted to make sure I wouldnt be slammed so low I'd be dragging on speedbumps and the such.