View Full Version : 2002 Northstar WOT, performance brakes, CORSA ?

06-04-14, 04:29 PM
Hey I know it's good to do WOT runs for my North Star but is it bad if I run the hell outa it all the time
Also I'm thinking about puting new brakes on would useing preformance quality brakes mess with the loss sls suspension and not be able to handl it

06-04-14, 06:47 PM
The Northstar engine was born to RUN: But there is a difference between using an engine to its design limits and abuse.

"performance" brake rotors and pads are a perfectly legitimate upgrade for someone who frequently drives the car to its potential. An SLS is the luxury cruiser side of the Seville series, so "performance brakes" is an oxymoron - EXCEPT for the Japanese/EURO W-rated SLS monsters. (We have a new SLS owner in Europe that regularly cruises his 2000 SLS at 120 mph for hours.)

Because your U.S. SLS is speed limited to 112 mph and is not really set up for screaming in the back road twisties, the AC Delco service brakes are perfectly adequate for 99% of your braking needs.

06-05-14, 10:34 AM
Oh ok thanks could you tell what u mean by abuse so I make sure not to ?

06-05-14, 12:30 PM
Abuse is abuse - i can punch you, its going to hurt a bit but you will get over it, if i punch you and punch you and dont stop, your heart could stop, same idea.

though i dont think there has been one day where which ever car im driving didnt see WOT. though its not everywhere and every chance i get.

06-05-14, 12:56 PM
Oh aight I get it now thanks

06-10-14, 11:29 PM
Hey I'm wondering if I should save up for a corsa exaust but I want to know how easy it would be to instale or would I need to go to a shop to get it done and how dose it sound ?

06-11-14, 10:20 AM
With a lift, normal shop tools and a good eyeball you can do it. As always, measure twice, cut once - and follow the instructions exactly. Most royal screw-ups on a CORSA install occur when the installer tries to wing it. For an amateur it takes 2 hours with proper tools. I would recommend the $75 cost to have a decent exhaust shop do it.

Open this link and scroll down 2 pages past the STOP sign:

You must remove the after-cat O2 sensor and re-install it in the new resonator pipe - be careful.

The system 'sound' has a low rumble at idle, is pretty quiet around town and on the highway but during a WOT run to redline it will wake the dead. There's not a baffle in it anywhere - it's all straight pipe with various sized holes/slots in the pipes inside the resonator and muffler cases.

The system will NOT gain you any fuel mileage. There is a small power gain up in the RPM band at WOT - otherwise nothing under driving conditions either. Your SLS VIN Y engine is not set up to be a drag queen anyway, so the CORSA is for warm and fuzzy only.

The system uses the original rubber isolation hangers. If, after install, it tends to walk to one side or the other due to slight muffler misalignment you can center the system in the muffler hanger rods and place small (fuel line size) band clamps on the hanger rods on either side of the rubber cookie - the system won't walk again.

Find the thread in Seville titled "Vroom Vroom". It contains before and after dyno runs on a 2001 STS. 125 posts, last one was 10 February 14. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/378042-vroom-vroom-2001-sts-corsa-dyno.html

P/N 14150. About $1300 or so. Mine is now 7.5 years old and not a speck of rust. Find a dealer in www.corsaperformance.com (http://www.corsaperformance.com)

06-11-14, 10:33 AM
Ok thanks what do you think about flow master for it ? I know probly not as good but a heck of a lot cheaper

06-11-14, 10:48 AM
Lots of owners go that way.

06-13-14, 04:38 PM
Hey I ment to ask we got the radiator replaced probly bout 8 months ago now but after 6 month the coolant was low but I couldent find a leak any where nd I'm pretty sure it ant a internal leak but I filled it up with dex cool all the way nd It hasent leaked any more but befor I put more in their I could smell a little bit a coolant

06-13-14, 05:32 PM
If you filled it "all the way" its overfilled. Please look at your surge tank for the FULL COLD legend and flat arrow molded into the tank top.

Overfilled means the engine will now blow off coolant as necessary to maintain the required airspace over the coolant in the surge tank.

Coolant level is checked and adjusted COLD, never warm or hot. Study the sticky posts just above this to find out why. You might also want to study the entire Cadillac Technical Archive way up ^^^ in the top black bar.

06-14-14, 01:26 AM
By all the way I ment to the mark sorry
Yea I checked it after it cooled off it said low coolant on the dash so I just thought I was on a slope or somethin but I waited bout 4 hours I know that ant a long time for it to cool off but oh well nd it was low but now it ant givein me no problems so I'm just confused

06-14-14, 09:31 AM
The coolant in the entire system - 3 gallons or so - expands and contracts a LOT during warmup - cooldown. If you replaced system parts a while ago it's possible that all the air is now purged from the system, coolant level in the surge tank dropped low enough to trip the level warning. You brought the level up to proper height - the sensor turned off the DIC warning.

If you smell coolant at each under hood check, there's a slow leak/weep somewhere. Time to go to work with a good flashlight or drop light and look for wet/damp spots.

06-14-14, 10:11 AM
Yea the problem is is that when it said it was low I would smell coolant but now that I filled it up it don't smell nd I look every day nd I c is oil no coolant
The O ring is starting to brake on the oil pan but I don't have I think that wanted 1200 to fix it so just puting more oil in is cheaper now It is leaking to bad

06-14-14, 07:37 PM
Want do you think are best spark plugs for my sls ?

06-14-14, 07:47 PM
As posted in these forums many, many times - AC Delco Double Platinum #41-987. The exact same plug as the original DENSO plugs that came in your car. Read the plug box: "Made in Japan". DENSO makes plugs and some sensors for GM.

Did you read the thread, close to this one, "NGK spark plugs ?".

If you have never changed the plugs in your car, I advise experienced help.

06-14-14, 11:52 PM
Only plugs Iv changed are on a 71 Monte Carlo it ant much difrent is it it ?
Yea I probly should read thru all those threads but it's lots of readin when I got time I will

06-15-14, 12:49 AM
Once you get to the plugs, no, no different at all. But first, you have to remove the coil cassettes (and the A.I.R. pump check valve over the rear cassette).

06-15-14, 09:54 AM
Only plugs Iv changed are on a 71 Monte Carlo it ant much difrent is it it ?
Yea I probly should read thru all those threads but it's lots of readin when I got time I will

It's a LOT different - you need to study the forums advised - this plug change is nothing like you've done before. For starters: No spark plug wires.

Look real hard at Post 16 and go from there. Each of those coil cassettes are held on by eight 10mm bolts and a multi-pin electrical connector. Removing the right (rear) AIR valve and the pipe at the exhaust manifold is a busted knuckle exercise by itself.

06-15-14, 02:42 PM
Hmm yea il get my dad to help me then

06-21-14, 07:56 AM
Your post asking about a knocking noise in the left rear of the car has been moved to Seville/Eldorado.