: Too Much Spent, Same Problem



SupremeHustler
09-21-05, 03:03 AM
1998 Deville Concourse
New Radiator, new Tstat, flushed out system. Car maintains regular temp on idle. Once I take it out on the street it starts to overheat. My last resort is to check the "vapor line" or how it may be refered to as. Read 60 pages worth of post trying to figure something out. Also spoke with previous owner and claims he put some kind of radiator stop leak sh!t in the system. Please advise.

Cadillac_Rancher
09-21-05, 11:03 AM
1998 Deville Concourse
New Radiator, new Tstat, flushed out system. Car maintains regular temp on idle. Once I take it out on the street it starts to overheat. My last resort is to check the "vapor line" or how it may be refered to as. Read 60 pages worth of post trying to figure something out. Also spoke with previous owner and claims he put some kind of radiator stop leak sh!t in the system. Please advise.

What about a water pump?

zonie77
09-21-05, 02:32 PM
This is the section to post your tip on fixing something. I can't move this.

SupremeHustler
09-21-05, 07:55 PM
I'm new to the forum. Sorry.

Caddillac Rancher, yes even a new water pump. The only thing left for me to do is to check vapor line attched to the reserve radiator reserve looking thing leading to the water pump housing. Thanks in advance.

zonie77
09-21-05, 08:54 PM
The obvious thing. Did you do compression/cyl pressure/combustion byproduct tests?

EcSTSatic
09-21-05, 09:12 PM
How about a collapsed coolant hose? rad cap? fans working?

terrible one
09-21-05, 10:11 PM
Yeah, it could be the radiator cap not sealing well.

SupremeHustler
09-22-05, 12:30 AM
I'm willing to try anything. Hoses, new t-stat, new water pump, new radiator. Everything is in working condition and no flaws or leaks. Buying new radiator cap tomorrow. Anything at this point is worth a try. I appreciate the help guys. Thanks.

zonie77
09-22-05, 02:04 AM
have you done the tests I suggested?

EcSTSatic
09-22-05, 08:59 PM
have you done the tests I suggested?
Thinking headgasket? Wouldn't he be losing coolant? No mention of that but it would be a symptom to look for.

zonie77
09-23-05, 01:28 AM
EcSTS,

Your right, I read that into the overheating.


Supreme,

Is it loosing coolant or just running hot?

SupremeHustler
09-24-05, 03:54 PM
EcSTS,

Your right, I read that into the overheating.


Supreme,

Is it loosing coolant or just running hot?

It's just overheating. About to do some work on it now. Checking purge line for blockage.

SupremeHustler
09-24-05, 06:56 PM
have you done the tests I suggested?

Done this test no.

Car runs great and no hesitation on power. Still over heating.

Just for the record before my car had any problems. I had a slight loss of coolant. I would have to fill the purge tank will coolant once a month. Never could find it, so I added once of these "radiator stop leak" things to the purge tank. MAJOR MISTAKE! Car ran perfect before this.

Things done to it.
1. New radiator
2. New T Stat
3. New Water Pump ( bought the tool for - read about it here - Thank You!)
4. Flushed out system 3 times
5. Removed purge tank and clean it out. The "radiator stop leak" had crystalized in the tank where you could crush with fingers. Cleanout where all ends water flowed perfect without no problems. Installed back with screw type and got rid of those annoying hose clips.

Things about car.
1. Car runs good at start up
2. Cooling fans do kick on when car needs them
3. On idle, car maintains normal temp. (rev up engine without no hesitation - all power). Car still maintains normal temp.
4. When it does overheat some, coolant is expelled through the purge tank line on the side of tank.
5. Car has no leaks or under car. Only at the purge tank when it gets hot enough, but I don't let it overheat.
6 Purge line does not flow until car is at regular temp. At start up, it does not flow for nothing.

zonie77
09-24-05, 08:18 PM
When you say coolant comes out of purge line on side of tank, is it line going onto ground?

Were the pellets put in the overflow tank? They need to go into a radiator hose. They do nothing in the overflow tank.

zonie77
09-24-05, 08:21 PM
Have you been watching this thread?

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50175

SupremeHustler
09-25-05, 04:45 PM
EcSTS,

Your right, I read that into the overheating.


Supreme,

Is it loosing coolant or just running hot?

When it starts overheating, it over flows and exits through the vent line on the radiator cap. There is no other visible sign or hissing anywhere on the engine block.

SupremeHustler
09-25-05, 04:55 PM
When you say coolant comes out of purge line on side of tank, is it line going onto ground?

Were the pellets put in the overflow tank? They need to go into a radiator hose. They do nothing in the overflow tank.

Yes, the line on the radiator cap going to the ground.

Pellets were never put in the engine because engine is still overheats and over flows. Dex Cool gets pretty expensive after you buy several, so the engine just has water in it. (waste of money)

1. The "radiator stop leak" that was put in the purge tank, will that block the collling system in the engine? Doing a pressure flush, will this clean out the cooling system in the engine?
2. The "radiator stop leak" that was put in the purge tank, will this block the heater core and prevent coolant from flowing through? I am getting heat when I run the heater.
3. Keeping water in the engine, will this cause more damage?
4. So the purge line check, once it's disconnected and you start the car, should the flow start immediately or start flowing once the car gets warmed up?

zonie77
09-25-05, 09:09 PM
If it's coming out of the purge tank you're loosing coolant.

1&2) The stop leak in the purge tank does nothing, it's not going into the engine.

If a normal amount is used it causes no problems. If you keep putting it in the engine and never draining it, then yes, it would eventually clog things.

Overheating CAN be a sign of leaking headgaskets. You have the symptom. What you need to do is test for a cyl leak. New cars can run great with a headgasket leak. They do not put coolant in the oil. They just overheat and lose coolant.

Unfortunately other things can cause overheating so it isn't a simple diagnosis. You need to do the tests.

SupremeHustler
09-25-05, 09:46 PM
If it's coming out of the purge tank you're loosing coolant.

1&2) The stop leak in the purge tank does nothing, it's not going into the engine.

If a normal amount is used it causes no problems. If you keep putting it in the engine and never draining it, then yes, it would eventually clog things.

Overheating CAN be a sign of leaking headgaskets. You have the symptom. What you need to do is test for a cyl leak. New cars can run great with a headgasket leak. They do not put coolant in the oil. They just overheat and lose coolant.

Unfortunately other things can cause overheating so it isn't a simple diagnosis. You need to do the tests.

This has been a nightmare and major headache. The next thing will be the test for cylinder leak.

haymaker
09-25-05, 10:39 PM
After reading the list of parts replaced and work you have completed thus far, IMHO the cylinders leak down test is the next logical step in the testing. Your engines overheating symptoms are the same as mine. Both head gaskets were blown on my engine but the car never missed a beat.
My car (97 SLS) would start and run great all the way into limp home mode (overheated and running on four cylinders). The cylinders leak down test, which is normally used to test the sealing ability of the piston rings and valves is used differently in this case (continuous supply of air pressure is applied) to test the cylinder head gasket ability to seal the cylinder from the cooling system. Some test the cooling system @ 15-20psi to test the cylinder head gaskets ability to seal the cooling system from the cylinder but IMHO the cylinders leak down test when done @ 100-120psi which is much higher than the cooling system test pressure is the better test for the head gasket. I think beebobbb wrote a short instruction on the cylinder pressure test procedure that you can find by doing a search.

BTW I didnít notice any mention of the condition or replacement of the engineís water-pump drive belt or the drive belts tensioner?

SupremeHustler
09-26-05, 02:13 AM
After reading the list of parts replaced and work you have completed thus far, IMHO the cylinders leak down test is the next logical step in the testing. Your engines overheating symptoms are the same as mine. Both head gaskets were blown on my engine but the car never missed a beat.
My car (97 SLS) would start and run great all the way into limp home mode (overheated and running on four cylinders). The cylinders leak down test, which is normally used to test the sealing ability of the piston rings and valves is used differently in this case (continuous supply of air pressure is applied) to test the cylinder head gasket ability to seal the cylinder from the cooling system. Some test the cooling system @ 15-20psi to test the cylinder head gaskets ability to seal the cooling system from the cylinder but IMHO the cylinders leak down test when done @ 100-120psi which is much higher than the cooling system test pressure is the better test for the head gasket. I think beebobbb wrote a short instruction on the cylinder pressure test procedure that you can find by doing a search.



BTW I didnít notice any mention of the condition or replacement of the engineís water-pump drive belt or the drive belts tensioner?

The water pump was replaced. Drive belt tensioner works fine and spins normal with water pump and the larger "wheel". All 3 things working fine, but will check again.

SupremeHustler
09-26-05, 02:15 AM
So the purge line check, once it's disconnected and you start the car, should the flow start immediately or start flowing once the car gets warmed up?

gman89
09-26-05, 02:23 AM
My 98 SLS has the same symptoms. Temp is fine at idle and light load. Runs great. But going up hills makes the temp climb. Coollant leaks out of the tank.It's at the dealer now getting new head gaskets.

SupremeHustler
09-26-05, 02:39 AM
My 98 SLS has the same symptoms. Temp is fine at idle and light load. Runs great. But going up hills makes the temp climb. Coollant leaks out of the tank.It's at the dealer now getting new head gaskets.

How much is that running you???

I live in Dallas, Texas. Anyone know of any reputable caddy mechanics in the area??? I rather avoid a dealership for this job.

starfox86
09-26-05, 07:07 AM
did you do the compression test on the cylinders yet?....and are you losing coolant?..i had my head gaskets blow, and the coolant loss was very noticable. and there was a white foam substance in the coolant tank and the engine would over heat when the car was at idle too. it ended up being cylinder 4 i believe that was leaking..and when i took the head gaskets off it was a small leak and you could see where it was on the gasket. so what i am saying is, make sure its the head gaskets first. no reason spending that kinda money. and also, check all the cooling lines. when i replaced my thermostat, the gasket was broken and it stayed in the cooling system and blocked up the part that is in the driverside front of the engine, where the coolant went through there it was smaller than the size of a pencil and the rubber piece was stuck in there. that solved the overheating problem on my new engine.