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GMT900 steering wheel "play" normal?

12K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  Atomic_Mist 
#1 ·
Hello,
I have a new to me 2008 escalade AWD with luxury package. It has 66K miles, regular maintenance but mostly original components (per records). I noticed it has about an inch of free play or "looseness" when the wheel is dead center going straight or while parked. The free play is there whether or not the engine is running, vehicle moving or parked. We had an older Tahoe (gmt800) that had a little bit of play but it had 3 times as many miles. Is this considered normal? Car does not need an alignment and driving in town is really trouble free (it tracks straight). there are no noises or clunks coming from the suspension etc. steering is smooth and light otherwise. It has the factory 22inch wheels. I have the same year corvette and love the tight responsive steering. I am not looking for this 6000 lb SUV to handle like my vette but driving this thing at highway speeds requires constant small corrections to keep it in the same lane. Is there anything that can be adjusted or "tightened" up on these trucks. Don't want to start replacing parts that may still be within spec. I'm thinking intermediate shaft, tie rods, or the whole steering rack?
Thank you for your input
Luke
 
#3 ·
Hey 3Some (love the user name btw) ,

I have the exact same concern and questions. I however have a new to me 07 Escalade Base project truck with 131k on her. I asked my mechanic (who is more of a european car specialist) about this and he replaced the lower ball joints (part of a long list of replacements I had planned for before purchase) because he suspected the play was greater than spec. It helped a little but I bet it can get tighter. The steering wheel "play" scared the life out of me the other night when a cop was behind me at 2:00 AM and I had had a few beers. What did you find out on your steering wheel "play" concern? Can anyone suggest other things in addition to the Tie Rods suggestion? I know, someone will say their suggestion is don't drink 3 beers and drive..
 
#5 ·
Any additional info on how to get to this hex nut in the column? Do I have to disconnect steering wheel and airbag? I checked the ball joints inner and outer rods and they look great had the wife move steering wheel while looking underneath and there is no free play in rack bushings or intermediate shift. The column seems logical but I don't know how to Crack it open without breaking airbags or expensive components. Thanks for your input hackster
 
#6 ·
FOUND THE SOLUTION!!
It took me a while to get around to messing with the steering column like user "hackster" suggested but it worked. Its a 5 minute job guys and that included my beer break.
You need to remove the screws from the bottom plastic cover of the steering column, the two halves separate simply by GENTLY pulling them apart with your fingers. Be careful not to scratch the trim. You only need to remove the TOP cover, tilt the entire wheel all the way down and pull the cover out. Next use a Torx "T25" bit and your ratchet to torque down the two bolts that connect the steering column. I don't have the torque specs but mine where pretty loose and I tightened them by hand until I felt significant resistance. Guessing about 60 lbs of torque. DO NOT over tighten this thing , You will strip the bolt and cause yourself more headache than necessary. In Hind sight I should have probably backed them out one at a time and applied some thread locker but its such an easy job that If the issue returns I will repeat it then. My truck had 69K miles, original suspension and 22inch wheels. And the steering (with the motor off) Bumper Helmet Audio equipment Automotive exterior Auto part
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is friggin tight similar to my low mile C6 Vette. It helps to start the engine momentarily and rotate the wheel to get both bolts easily. Then put everything back together and gently click the two cover pieces together. Tilting the wheel to the very top will help with re assembly giving you more room. I love this 5 minute free DIY fix. Thanks again MR. Hackster!!
 
#11 ·
FOUND THE SOLUTION!!
It took me a while to get around to messing with the steering column like user "hackster" suggested but it worked. Its a 5 minute job guys and that included my beer break.
You need to remove the screws from the bottom plastic cover of the steering column, the two halves separate simply by GENTLY pulling them apart with your fingers. Be careful not to scratch the trim. You only need to remove the TOP cover, tilt the entire wheel all the way down and pull the cover out. Next use a Torx "T25" bit and your ratchet to torque down the two bolts that connect the steering column. I don't have the torque specs but mine where pretty loose and I tightened them by hand until I felt significant resistance. Guessing about 60 lbs of torque. DO NOT over tighten this thing , You will strip the bolt and cause yourself more headache than necessary. In Hind sight I should have probably backed them out one at a time and applied some thread locker but its such an easy job that If the issue returns I will repeat it then. My truck had 69K miles, original suspension and 22inch wheels. And the steering (with the motor off) View attachment 236730 View attachment 236738 View attachment 236746 View attachment 236754 View attachment 236762 is friggin tight similar to my low mile C6 Vette. It helps to start the engine momentarily and rotate the wheel to get both bolts easily. Then put everything back together and gently click the two cover pieces together. Tilting the wheel to the very top will help with re assembly giving you more room. I love this 5 minute free DIY fix. Thanks again MR. Hackster!!

Great! Thank you!
Tell me please. Do you know what the permissible steering wheel backlash is for the Escalade 3?
 
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