im about to buy a 79 deville and everything on the car is really nice (paint,insides,no rust) but one thing is the engine has a small ticking sound. the owner says wen he got the car tunedup the mech. told him one of his rockers is loose but he didnt have the money 2 fix anything else on it at the time. so he says sometimes it makes the noise sometimes it doesnt.. and all i had 2 do is tighten the rocker to tdc... now if thats all im fine with that but the more people i ask it seems i get different answers.. someone says im gonna need a new rocker one say just tighen it and then some say it could be more (cam,lifters) so i thought id find a cadillac forum and ask the people who would know more about these engines...

its a 425 with 77k miles ..the car doesnt look abused at all.

any ideas wha this could be? thanks in advance for the replys

I suppose it could be a loose rocker but I'd be more inclined to think it's just a ticking lifter. If this is the case I'd try the old ATF trick to try to get it to go away.

well tomorrow i get the car so i can see whas going on in there but one thing is some people say those arnt adjustable rockers...then some say they are..so i dont know, someone told me they arnt and its most likey a worn cam or sticky lifter.. but a worn cam at 70k miles???

thanks for your help davesdeville

#1 cause of ticking = either small crack in exhaust manifold or missing manifold bolts. See if the noise changes with engine heat. You can also dribble small amounts of trans fluid into the carbonator while engine is running to detect small exhaust leaks. It will smoke big time with the trans fluid. Rockers are not adjustable. Those cams are tough and also don't work against much spring pressure. If your cam is wiped then this engine has suffered severe neglect.

These engines are known for ticking lifters. Most noticeable at cold idle. One way that may fix it is to change the oil and pour in a can of EOS (Engine Oil Supplememt) You can find it at a GM dealer or AC/Delco outlet.

I have seen this clear up lifter ticks quite often on these engines.

Mike

hmm... well the guy says he got it off a old lady and i have a couple friends who know him not well but they also say he did buy it off a old lady...she hardly drove it because it was her husbands and he passed away so it was under a tree for a year or 2... i havnt gotten it yet but would this be something i should think twice about buyin the car? or even if it is a worn cam or lifters its no biggy?

thanks again for your help with this

It's doubtful there are any real engine concerns. These were pretty durable engines in every respect.

Noisy lifters are fairly common on these cars, like I said, and I would not worry about it. Try the EOS thing, drive it and it's likely the ticking will go away.

Mike

I agree with guidematic...very unlikedly there are any real concerns. Based on what you've said, find out if it goes away as the engine heats up, that will tell you what it is. Again I agree it's probably the lifters, when you add the EOS, you might even try a thicker oil for 100 miles or so (I'd recommend 20w-30/50 valvoline racing oil...it'll thin out with heat and it's the best oil I've ever used (took away some light smoke with my car)). Even if it is the cam, thats not all that expensive to fix, so no worries, it'll be worth it in the end regardless.

well he does say it comes and goes... but also he is going to drive it about 35miles on the highway 2 get it to me, i mean if it was something huge i doubt he would want to drive it that far... im prolly going to end up buyin it.

i was going to give it a tuneup as soon as i get it and i normally use 20w50 on most the engines i drive so that would be a good oil 2 use on this one then?

thanks again for all the help its just this engines are new 2 me im use to the 4100 engines so this is the first 425 ill have

lifters.

My 425 does the same thing when it is cold, about 20 seconds after it is running it is quiet.

Of course I bought my car with a "blown engine" and knocking badly.... yeah right, the wrist pin was frozen up, some piston slap, 3 mile drive to the gas station and it was clear :)

even though the 425 is weaker then the 472/500 (weaker crank shaft) and not as much power... they are still beasts and you will be hard pressed to kill one, or the TH400 behind it.... thirsty, yes.... but unless you completly run it out of oil, or decide to floor it for 5 minutes in park.... you aren't going to kill one.

I also have a ticking sound from the left exhaust manifold, cracked? bad gasket? I don't know, and it dosn't bother me enough to spend time checking it out.

if it was used by the typical 90 year old person with 20mph trips to the grocery store 3 miles away, the engine is going to be pretty nasty inside... just sludged up and stuff, mine is, the oil gets dirty quick etc... nothing I can do about it though, it runs smooth, quiet, and lays rubber.... plus the 425 is just holding me over until I get around to doing a performance rebuild on the 500 and dump that in....yee haaa

well he does say it comes and goes... but also he is going to drive it about 35miles on the highway 2 get it to me, i mean if it was something huge i doubt he would want to drive it that far... im prolly going to end up buyin it.

i was going to give it a tuneup as soon as i get it and i normally use 20w50 on most the engines i drive so that would be a good oil 2 use on this one then?

thanks again for all the help its just this engines are new 2 me im use to the 4100 engines so this is the first 425 ill have

oh gosh no.... 20W-50 is a nice way to try and kill these things.

They don't like 10W-40 either, causes the lifters to stick.

10W-30 is pretty much perfect for them.

I used Mobil 1 synthetic for 2 oil changes (all I use in my '93) but it started leaking.. park it for 6 hours, come out, there were drips. So I switched back to regular Mobil, and the dripping is no more... so I don't use synthetic on that.

I change the oil every 2,000 miles, if that anyway... it is my 3rd car (in terms of use) so it dosn't get driven much, and the oil does get dirty quick (compared to my other cars) and I usually do an oil change on all 3, or at least 2 of the cars at one time, so for the whole $10 it cost, I just do it anyway.

10W30 may work fine, for the most part. But, in the 25 years I have been using 15W40 oil, I have never had an engine concern. I have used it in everything I have had, 500's, 472's HT4100's, Olds 455's and 307's. Chev 6's, 305's and 350's. Slant 6's. It has been great oil. I use it all year around, even in -30C temperatures, the cars start and run fine.

But, use that EOS, and change the oil often, especially if it is sludged up in there. That will help to clean it all out.

Mike

These engines are known for ticking lifters. Most noticeable at cold idle. One way that may fix it is to change the oil and pour in a can of EOS (Engine Oil Supplememt) You can find it at a GM dealer or AC/Delco outlet.

I have seen this clear up lifter ticks quite often on these engines.

Mike

I guess that I'm lucky because I've only seen 1 that ticked from lifters. It was full of sludge.

Actually, this is not just common to the 425's. I have also seen this in 472's and 500's. Sludge build up will defineatly make it worse.

Even on occasion, I get a lifter tick on my 472, and it's a clean as a whip inside. But this usually happens after the car has sat for some time. Changing the oil, and going for a drive clears it up. My old 500 did it a lot, but this engine had almost 250,000 miles on it. But it usually went away after a drive. It would return every few months or so, but was only temporary.

Mike

well its just im in miami i dont really deal with colder weather and stuff so is the oil recommendation still the same?

2 hours and its all mine :sneaky:

I'm standing by my 20w-50...It's been used for 11 years on my 89, and the last 2 years on my 71, and they're both running strong, no ticking, nothing, smooth as can be...and I drive both of them hard.

ok i got it now...looks decent needs some work but overrall is wha i wanted... now the ticking i reved the engine and the tickin did get faster... ?

also the tranny wen i shifted into rev. it didnt "pop" the rear up ...is that normal? it was all smooth shifting from rev. to DRIVE

Smooth shifting is a good thing last time I checked... Means you're at a proper idle speed instead of being high enough in the powerband to torque the car.

Sounds good to me as well.

The first thing you want to do is get everything serviced so you know it is good.

You will really enjoy the car!

Mike

Congrats on the purchase! I hope you enjoy your new ride!

thanks guys:D

i just went to start it 2 see if it would still tick and it did tick soon as i started it... didnt wanna turn over but wit a lil gas it turned over.

trying to make a list of wha is "first in order" for the caddi and monday wha i plan 2 get so far is oil (still not sure wha grade but i did see some oil last nite that said anti-sludge???? came in 10w30 and 20w50), new head cover gaskets(and bolts because it looks like one or 2 are missing:wtf: ),the oil treatment(can i get EOS at discount auto parts? or only the dealer), some i was also thinking a fuel filter just incase this guy never changed it...

but man i gotta say this thing is huuuuuuuuge*donald trump voice* ive owned 4 cadillacs and this is my 5th one and maybe i havnt had a caddi in a while but man it takes up alot more space then i thought...looks like we have a big white boat in the driveway now lol:worship:

Da*n straight it's big! Haha glad you like it.

As for those bolts, you better hope that they really are missing and not broken off! What bolts are they?

About the oil, I would have to go with blue71eldo and recommend the 20w50

ok i rechecked the bolts and it does have all of them BUT..some look like bolts and some look like its a stick and a bolt...i dont kno the name but theres a stick coming out of were the bolt is and a lug looks like 2 tighten it....most are bolts but some are the stick with lug thing.........


20w50 it is .....now a friend of mine told me 2 run tranny fluid in the motor for a while because if i do have a sticky lifter the detergents in the tranny fluid act like a "washing" of the engine... this true? he said do this for a while then switch it back to reg. engine oil and new filter

You have a picture of one of the bolts with what you are talking about?

About the tranny fluid thing, I've never heard of it myself. Sounds like a load of bull but that's coming from someone who has never heard of it nor experienced it.

i guess like this... but not all nice and chrome lol

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/arp-400-7603.jpg

Where are these bolts used?

on the valve covers...some not all...id say 2 out of all of them...and it looks like on both valve covers..but the rest are normal bolts

Is there anything on them? I don't know what these would have been used for. Maybe a ground for something?

Running transmission fluid is a bad idea, very, very bad idea. You have to realize this is an old engine. Some of the buildup in there is necessary to keep it running smoothly, unless you do a complete rebuild. If you run too much detergents through it, you'll find smoke in your exhaust, and leaks starting to form, as some of the gunk actually acts as seals. If your really paranoid, use some soft of Marvel Mystery oil type product for a day or two, then get it out of there cause you don't want to ruin too much. Thats why I say 20w-50, it's a very pure oil. The same goes for your gas, don't use the new stuff with all the additives, try to get a nice pure gasoline.

Congrats on the new Caddy! You have just begun to learn all the little tricks and strange things about these cars.

Those long bolts in the valve covers are there to hold the factory spark plug wire looms. I don't know if you can still pick them up at a parts store (maybe the red-packaged "Help!" line might have something). The tall part of the bolt is what the little plastic loom fits on to hold the sparkplug wires next to the heads and off of the exhaust manifolds.

Also, I have heard good things about Rislone Engine Treatment for stuck lifters; I through a quart in about 2 or 3 weeks ago (my lifter clicks at idle, but quiets down at speed). Don't know for sure if it is working, as it MAY have gotten quieter, but I'm not sure. google it and see what you can; some folks say good, some say maybe not...

These engines are known for ticking lifters. Most noticeable at cold idle. One way that may fix it is to change the oil and pour in a can of EOS (Engine Oil Supplememt) You can find it at a GM dealer or AC/Delco outlet.

I have seen this clear up lifter ticks quite often on these engines.

Mike

Yep. In cold mornings, even on my rebuilt 425, the thing would clatter like my diesel for about 5 seconds, then it would all go away and be dead silent.

When I first got it, after it sat for 8 years, one of the lifters was always ticking at idle. Not annoying or loud, but its noticable over a silent motor. It eventually went away, so im happy.

Running transmission fluid is a bad idea, very, very bad idea. You have to realize this is an old engine. Some of the buildup in there is necessary to keep it running smoothly, unless you do a complete rebuild. If you run too much detergents through it, you'll find smoke in your exhaust, and leaks starting to form, as some of the gunk actually acts as seals. If your really paranoid, use some soft of Marvel Mystery oil type product for a day or two, then get it out of there cause you don't want to ruin too much. Thats why I say 20w-50, it's a very pure oil. The same goes for your gas, don't use the new stuff with all the additives, try to get a nice pure gasoline.

So you think the snake oils will magically cure a ticking lifter without dislodging other gunk in the engine? :cookoo:

lol thank u guys for all the help, much apprieciated... i was going to take off the valve cover the tickin is coming from just 2 see which one it is and who knows maybe it is JUST loose...or should i try the oil change and oil supplement first then take the valve cover off and see whas it doing?

I still recommend the EOS. There is no comparitive afternarket product. You can find it at any dealer or AC/Delco outlet. This is about the only thing I have seen work for this.

Also, 20W50 oil is fine for a tired old engine that has no oil pressure, or an engine that is subjected to hard work in high heat. It will work fine in your engine, no doubt. Regardless of the condition.

But, the HD 15W40 from Rotella T, Delo or Delvac is superior to these oils. They have superior additive packages that make them stand up to the rigors of HD deisels that don't get their oil drained for up to 50,000 miles. Just think what it will do for your car.

Mike

ok guys so first thing on the list for monday shopping is:

1. oil (most likly 20w50 high milage)
2. oil filter
3. eos(or another engine cleaner)
4. fuel filter
5. battery cables
6. battery

i think thats all for far one i test the oil and see if it is a sticky lifter or not i can go from there and purchase valve cover gaskets and most likly new lifters???


also the front bench doesnt work but u can hear the motor turning so i got under it and saw that it looked like the motor comin from the driver side spins but it wasnt attached to the motor going to the other side(with 3 wires or tubes) well i went to move it in but the motor that is attached to the 3 tubes crumbled(the case) :( so does anyone kno were i can find one of these or am i lookin at going to the junk yard?

You guys think the '79 is a big car? and the Coupe is slightly smaller then the Sedan...

Gosh, to me, my '79 is "right size" and the '76 and eairler are a "big" size..... I dunno... but even year newer cars get smaller, and it makes my "small" '79 look bigger :)

Well, it seems like you are set on 20W-50.... even though others have said to use it, it is something I would never put in any of my engines.

There is nothing magical, special or anything about the car or the engine, normal oil, normal gasoline, normal use etc.... Maybe because I don't see my '79 as a true classic (which it isn't) is why I don't treat it as one... don't get me wrong, any vehicle in my possission gets top notch care, but I don't baby it, I drive it in the rain, take it to the junkyard, put stuff in the back seat/trunk....maybe because there are too many mint <50,000 mile examples on ebay all the time, that mine in comparison isn't as nice, I dunno.... but the main purpose of that car, for me, is to be the home of a nicely built 500 with lotsa power.

I dunno.... but the main purpose of that car, for me, is to be the home of a nicely built 500 with lotsa power.

:thumbsup: thats exactly wha im trying to do with this caddy, i hate that the guy who sold it 2 me said "ive never really floored the car, i always just get there slower"...then why even have a car with a v8? im tryin 2 get this car so i can press the gas and not have 2 think somethings gonna break lol so... hopefully this engine only needs minor work because ive already thought bout lookin for another engine :( :bomb:

lol, with the 425, TH400 and 8.5" rear end, you wont be braking anything.

I took the Caddy to the dragstrip too :)

I drive the cars hard, but these engines have no problem doing it, they just show you in their increased fuel consumption :)

Maybe, today atleast that cars in the 50's should be babied and taken special care of... but IMO 60's and 70's cars... tey are just too "new" in design and stuff, that people that baby them, just dosn't really make sense.

Here is my '79

I got it with 84k miles, it now has 90k, I put those wheels on (since they were laying around at the house) I did a full tune up, bought new tires (from a junkyard... still had the stubs on them, $100/set :) ) and did things to personalize it, added a tach, got rid of the nasty factory burl wood on the dash for '86 Brougham walnut wood, and some other things. The most single expensive thing I spent on that car would be $260 to get the rust on the left rear door fixed, and painted over.... an amazing job.

I got the car for $300 :) now, you can tack a 0 onto that price, and add another grand, and that is about how much it is worth :)

http://inoventionseast.com/1979%20DeVille/door/PDR_0194.JPG

thats a nice 79 man!

any pics of the tach and new wood??

also i if any of u know were i can find these things it would be apprieciated...

- seat motors
- window motors
- weather stripping

also i heard some of the 80s interior would work on these years also... like door panels,seats,dash...not everything but most parts, is this all true?

A lot of the 80s interior pieces will work, Fleetwood Broughams didn't change too incredibly much between 77 and 92 and a lot of parts are interchangable. Like how Rick used 86 dash pieces in his 79.

Those parts you asked about are probably best found in a junkyard, or one of the Caddy specialty yards. Except the weatherstripping, which I've seen on eBay from time to time.

thats wha i was afraid of :(

Yeah I've seen the weatherstripping on Ebay too, definitly rare. I didn't have the $$ at the time so I am waiting for it to re-appear so I can nab it.

the window motors, wouldnt a dealer be able 2 fix it? or atleast get the part from them?? im going nutz trying to figure out how imma be able 2 talk at the mcdonalds drive thru with no power windows :( :( :(

window motors you can actually get at Advance Auto... lucky for me, the windows on the '79 are freakin' faster then most all new cars I have been in...amazing.

seat motor... these things never go bad... I would check all connections and stuff, but if you need to replace it, yeah junkyard is best.

weather striping, yeah, a couple of mine are bad too.... from what I know a few compaines specialize in this, what sucks is on my '93 Coupe, right now they are fine, but in the future, I know I am going to have a HARD time finding some for that car.

Yeah, pretty much everything on these cars, '77-'92 are interchangeable, with '90-'92 being the most different. door panels, dash, seats, nearly everything is a bolt-N-go plan here.

I coudln't care less about keeping the car all origanal... not if there is something I don't like or can improve. One of those things was the NASTY light burl wood dash of the '79 DeVille, I hated it. What I really liked was the American Rosewood of the late 80's Broughams, so I swapped it.

I also aded a tach to the steering column.

Then the (2) strips that run under the top panel of the dash... the smoked colored stuff, with the dash lights on the driver side... all my water color chrome was washed off, and it looks really bad, and the "unleaded fuel only" was all smeared... looked bad...

so at the junkyard was a low mileage, mint interrior/enigne '89 Brougham, it was a really nice blue interior (seats looked brand new, dash was nice, someone ripped up the driver door panel) but those chrome pieces were mint aswell.

So off they came, I got both parts, which also includes the fuel gauge.

So now my car has nearly brand new chrome on that part (really made a big difference) and all the dash lights of the 80's... which have little icons next to the words... the 1 thing I miss is the old "generator" light, that was just cool, not the light says "no charge" and has a picture of a battery, the trunk light also has a picture of a car witht he trunk open etc... all the stanard 80's GM icons... and on the gas gauge, instead of saying "fuel" it has the little gas pump... and something very cool, as an added benifit, the yellow low fuel light works as well!, neat little extra touch I think.

I do not have any pictures of thenew chrome parts/lights/fuel gauge, I'll get some tomorrow.

But I really don't try to make this car 100% origanal, I swapped out the factory 8-track player for a cassette player from an '85... looks just like the optional cassette in '79.... why? this radio picks up FM better, has treble/bass (not just....tone) and fade/balance (not just fade) and with the cassette, I can hook up my XM radio or MP3 player and listen to music that way.... very cool.

lets see... I have origanal floor mats, but in the trunk as the driver one is kinda ripped up, so I bought a cheap set at wal mart that work fine. the interrior is fadded a little, dash is cracked (center stack is actually warped... they all do) the material lining the trunk was in perfect shape... until I put a whole Cadillac Northstar (in pieces) in there.... then drove around for about 2 weeks because I felt like driving that car and was too lazy to take the engine out.... so that ripped up the material, but then I took the mat out of that '86 Brougham, so now I have a mint trunk mat. the list goes on.... I really like this car, and some times people say I should keep it stock, but I am not doing that, I am making it how *I* like it... I did the same with the '93 Coupe too.

Here is the nasty burl wood panel, ripped driver floor mat, 8-track... basically all origanal, how I bought it:

Oh yeah, I really didn't like the origanal hood ornament, just the crest, so I bought a NOS hood ornament for an 80's Brougham, and put that on, looks so much better... and the origanal flash-light headlights sucked... so I put Silver Stars in.... well, half, only the outter lights have them (low/high beam) and I havn't got to the inner high beams yet... SO much better.

* that is after I cleaned the engine and washed it all up nice, but before I painted the factory air cleaner flat black (which made a huge difference)

Here is the engine currently, you can see the new hood ornament...

This is also a recent picture of the rust issue... when I bought the car, it was there... but it got worse and worse and worse, until finally I found an awesome body shop, great guy, very resonable price, and amazing work.... that alone made the car go from "old car" status to "cool classic" because I HATE rust, and that is the one thing I do not like on cars... I can do everything else, but rust repair/body work isn't my thing.

Here it is after the rust repair... near perfect color match, the door is a little more shiney since it is bc/cc and the car is lacqur.

He also put all new pin striping on, just because he siad he can't paint it back, so it is the tape kind, it is right over the origanal painted pin stripe, so it can be removed, but since it is a darker color, I actually like it alot now... so it stays.

the 2 rubber trim pieces that for in the metal trim pieces on the fenders, I have... I just never got around to gluing them back on.

oh yeah, the power antenna is broke, so I bought a NOS one from ebay, but it is for an 80's Brougham and the mounting bracekt is different, so I gotta make it work.

Here is a crappy picture of the Silver Stars, compare the color of the light to the origanal, it is a bluish-white...

lets just say that, on low beams now (with the SS) I can see better then the old high beams... the low beams (dual element) were $20/each, the high beams (single element) are $25/each... go figure...

Here are pics of the old wood, the new, and the process...

Oh yeah, I also plan to get the dual power mirrors from an 80's Brougham and put them on my car, as the driver mirror cables are very stiff, and 2 of the 3 passenger cables broke (from me) making that mirror useless... so the power mirrors would be a direst swap.

Only thing really left is to fix the AC, the main o-ring on the compressor is bad.

But, I am moving to FL in a week, and the '79 will stay here in NY (in a garage) and I will be almost 2 years without this car, so all these plans... are going to be waiting.

Here are some pictures the day after I got the car (daylight) shes came a long way :) amazingly, this car, out of my 3 has got the least work, least money, and least amount of time spent on it... the wheels we already had (from my mothers Brougham) the most expensive thing I did to it was the $260 for the door... everything else, tune up, tires (from a junk yard... nearly new though) really don't add up.

Car is Laramie Beige, with the Ceder Red interior, in d'Elegance trim. had 84k miles when I bought it back in May of '04, it now has 91k miles. I have origanal window sticker, mauals, 8-track tape, various repair bills, registration and emmisions stuff over the years, and the recipte for the Ziebart undercoating done when brand new. I paid $300 for it with a "blown engine" which turned out not to be, and now, I know I could get a solid $4,000 if I wanted to.... but then what would the built up 500 go in? :)

see the rust ont he door? started innocent enough....

http://inoventionseast.com/1979%20DeVille/door/PDR_0511.JPG

oh yeah, I replaced the driver side cornering lamp, as the origanal was cracked and let water in.

http://inoventionseast.com/1979%20DeVille/door/PDR_0587.JPG

http://inoventionseast.com/1979%20DeVille/door/PDR_0588.JPG

http://inoventionseast.com/1979%20DeVille/door/PDR_0589.JPG

http://inoventionseast.com/1979%20DeVille/door/PDR_0590.JPG

There she is :) the padded vinyl top has cracks and could be replaced.. but it'll sait... basically, i don't want to restore this car, nor do I feel the need, it is very presentable, but things like the top of the rear bumper has the sun spots and stuff... but none of that matters, because this isn't an all origanal show car, it is my fun weekend car... when I feel like saying FU Liberals and saving the Earth, when I like to look at the good days of cars, full frame, RWD, big block V8, lotsa chrome, and when I just was to cruise and enjoy it... plus my friends get a kick out of the car doing 55mph in 1st gear..... at 4,000RPM or the fact I can swing the wheel side to side really far while going down the road..... and still go stright.... or even doring donuts in the school parking lot, then a few friends saying it is the most fun ride they ever had in a car (that was written in my senior year book too :) ) Bringing the car to the dragstrip and getting more attention then the Malibu with race slicks and blower sticking out of the hood next to me, cool comments from the announcer, and, hopefully in the next couple years, a high powered, super torque monster 500 going under the hood to really have some fun :)

Hi All:
Wolf it looks like your pretty proud of your Caddy, and you should be. You made her over to suit your personal taste.
I agree with you on the choice of oil, I've had good luck on my '77 coupe using 15W-40. You have to be careful, the 20W-50 used in a daily driver isn't a good choice, unless your oil pump isn't putting out the recommended pressure. There is an oil galley tap right above the pump, on the side of the block I use to check the pump pressure. Usually though, low oil pressure is caused by worn bearings. That is when I recommend the 20W-50. It'll buy some time.

Big Cal's problem tick sounds minor. If he starts driving that car everyday, he may find that annoyance going away. One of my '77's had a persistant tick that would go away when I drove the car to the race track on weekends. I'd get on the interstate and get it up to 80 mph and the tick would go away for about three days.

Cal, check your window motor. Take off the door panel, and check to see if your getting current to the motor. If not, the problem may be in your control on your arm rest.
As for your seat, you didn't say if you had a bench seat or a split bench 50/50 seat. From what you described it sounds as if your seat transmission has cracked and the motor has torn itself out of the housing. The bench seats used a plastic transmission in 1979. Sorry, just sold the last one I had.

Good Luck, If you need any advise I'll be glad to help.

wolf:
man u and me think alike lol im not really tryin 2 restore it back to factory but want a clean caddi.... the wood u put on looks alot better and i did find some rust on mine but it almost looks the same as u had but mine is on the hood...very small and i kno wha rust is my old caddi had holes everywere from rust so this is a breeze... about the gauges, thats one thing ive always didnt understand about caddys, i need 2 kno whas going on with the engine the temp, presure, volts(especially the volts!!!!!!),rpms,ect... wha imma do for now is just attach a universal mount 2 have 3 gauges so i can tell most about the engine and once its runnin daily imma find out if a digital dash from digital dakota would fit in the factory speedo because its a 6 way digi dash(mph,rpm,oil pres.,temp,fuel,volt) which would be nice 2 have it all in a small package and digital lol but most of everything u did i need or want 2 do.. but right now i just need it running,windows,seats...anything this is all fixed i can look into the wood grain but i think i might just want 2 paint it and marblize the color so it has the same look of wood... dont kno yet lol i just need that 425 doing wha its suppose 2 do and thats suck gas lol

cadillacman:
thank god i can find window motors! and your right these windows move faster then most new cars...??? funny a car from 79 windows move faster then something 26 years newer lol

the oil, the main reason is ive used it on all the 4100s i had and any problems the 4100 did have(smoke, noises) either it was fixed with just a oil change 20w50 and if that didnt take care of it some higher octane gas did lol so i guess im just more comfortable wit it(if i put 15w40 and it still ticks imma think i should have used 20w50 lol) but hopefully after tomorrow wen i put the oil and supplement it will be ok.. i found something at walmart that is suppose 2 quiet lifters.. ill see if i can find a link to it online...

and it is a bench seat :( but i had a quick question u might be able 2 help with, theres 4 main bolts covered by a lil plastic slip on piece...i took those off but is there more bolts? i cant see any but it kinda feels like the back has another bolt somewere???....good thing is now that the front bolts are lifted wen i sit the seat is reclined so i fit better lol

About the seat and windows, before you go buying a bunch of stuff, check the wiring in the door jamb. It's very common for these wires to break, leaving the windows and seat inoperative.

The fix is fiddley, but should only take you about 1 1/2 hours to do.

Mike

well havnt gotten the window off but i know for sure the seat motor is bad cuz it crumbled in my hands lol ill find another soon

i did buy some stuff and tomorrow imma work on the caddi

this is wha i got(i got a little carried away lol):

- 4 qt valvoline maxlife(75k miles or more engines) sae 20s50 oil
- 1 qt rislone engine treatment(quiets noisy lifters and valves)
- 12 fl oz. GUNK valvemedic
- 15oz can GUNK citrus engine brite(cleaner degreaser ect)
- 1 advanced autoparts totalgrip filter
- 1 fuel filter
- 1 FRAM sure drain oil changing system
- 1 circuit tester
- 2 bosch micro edge winshield wipers

+ minor things like wire crimper,funnel,oil pan,oil filter wrench...minor details lol

ok heres the thing the RISLONE wen changing oil replace 1 qt of oil with this stuff instead...so im guessin 3 part 20w50 and 1 part RISLONE....but then the GUNK VALVEMEDIC says 2 turn the car on let it get warm..then pour the 12oz fluid into the crankcase(were would i pour this?) and drive immediately...if noise does not go away in 5 min then im in need of mechanical repairs... ????????

I would stay away form any of that engine treatment stuff.

If it was me, I would run stright 10W-30 in it, nothing else.

but yes, if you do put a quart of that stuff in, that takes the place of a quart of oil.

but isnt that the same as the eos stuff or anything 2 stop the ticking?

http://rislone.com/engine.htm

that is the RISLONE

and this is the smaller bottle i got

http://www.gunk.com/oe2.asp?pic=M3712

but isnt that the same as the eos stuff or anything 2 stop the ticking?

no.

EOS is made by GM, it is basically an oil substatute with a very high amount of the anti-wear addative ZDP. it is used whenever possible engine damage may have occured, such as running low on oil etc....

If anything, throw a quart of EOS (from the dealer) in with the next oil change, that may help.

well i changed the oil....put the first liquid in....it quieted down 4 a min but then came back again...so i added the second bottle and nothing.... :(:(:(:(

ok took the valve cover off....man there is so much sludge everywere.. u can see some of the new oil but its going over all the sludge...could this be the problem? i havnt started it with the valve cover off or checked if any of the rockers are loose but i will in a min.

ok number 6 rocker from the front of the engine is very loose...there grouped 2geather 1-2 3-4 5-6 7-8 ......1&2 are fine...3 and 4...4 MIGHT be a tiny bit loose but not really...5 is not...6 i can move with my fingers....7 and 8 are fine... so if 5-6 are pared and 5 doesnt move then its not the center bolt that holds them 2geather right? i couldnt see any other bolts holding the rocker unless theres 2 bolts on each end of the rocker but i cant see if cause of the sludge...

SIDE NOTE*

found this site that does have weather stripping and other parts for cadillacs! $80 for 77-79 deville weather stripping

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Weatherstrip/Cadillac/Deville

bump

you put *2* different types of "engine treatment" in at the same time?

no good at all!

My 425 seems to not be very pretty inside either, the best I would say is, leave it alone! tighten up the rocker arm if it is loose, but do not attempt to clean any of the sludge, unless you are doing a full rebuild and have everything machine washed, there is no other way to get the engine perfectly clean.

Thanks for the site! I will definitly check it out :)

damn so its gonna have 2 stay dirty :(...


for the rocker , were do i tighten? cuz there looks 2 be just 1 bolt between them and MAYBE from wha i can see does the rocker itself tighen with a allen wrench?

thanks for the help man...btw that site has front and back weather stripping for $180 but i also needed the outside "sweep" weather stripping that blocks water from getting in the door, which they have it for 2 doors but not 4 door 77-79 cadillacs im thinkin i can just cut wha i dont need off and it should work fine

If you read the post before i edited it... forget it. My mind is stuck in fresh engine mode!!! http://cadillacforums.com/forums/images/smilies/coolgleamA.gif

:hmm: :helpless:

bump

how would i tighen the rocker?

ummm... tighten the bolt?

lol but thats the thing... the bolt will tighen number 5 also...and number 5 rocker is fine.. so wouldnt that be over tighening 5 just so 6 is ok?...thats why im confused cause unless each rocker has a bolt and then also has the main center bolt between both rockers i dont kno wha else i can see.... its almost as if the retainer plate is fine but the rocker 6 is loose or the rod is loose idk.... i guess my questions is does each rocker have a small nut right over the spring? or is it just that big bolt between the 2 rockers?

Is the rocker itself loose or is it the T pedistal? If it's the rocker, does it move side to side or back and forth (well, describe which way it goes since side to side and back and forth don't really say which direction it moves.)

its not the pedistal that feel tight... its the rocker and i guess it moves side to side ( pushing to the front of the engine and the other side being the rear of the engine)

That's what I suspected. It's been awhile since I've been under a valve cover of a big Cad so I'm not sure but I do not remember there being any kind of adjustment for that. But a whole new T pedistal would probably be real cheap since a lot of people upgrade to shaft rockers if you have to replace yours.

ok i was outthere 2day tryin 2 get the center bolt off....and that thing is on super tight...might be a dumb question but wd40?.... if not imma have 2 get a breaker bar or something

and the other thing is i started it while the cover is off...and looked at the rockers i couldnt tell which was ticking cuz i couldnt hear any ticking...they all looked like they worked like a normal engine.. only thing was a loud hissing sound maybe i couldnt hear any ticking over that.... any ideas or is that normal?

Usually things like WD40 and PB Blaster work on rusty bolts. Get a breaker bar, that's probably what you should be using anyway.

and the hissing is normal?


thanks for helping me with this very much appreiciated

Ok... i guess this will work as a temp fix until you find out if your cam is shot or whatever... BEFORE YOU DO THIS!!! Make sure that the cylinder's pushrods that you are working on is on its compression stroke!!! (bot valves closed)

First tighten the hold down block until you can no longer spin the pushrods between your fingers. Then back off the bolt so that you can start spinning the rods with your fingers again.... Place a straight edge across the valve cover rails so that the side of the edge touches the pushrod. Mark where the ruler touches the rod with a pencil. Now tighten down the hold down block a little and measure where it touches again. The old mark should now be slightly higher on the rod than wherre the ruler is (duh), mark where it is on the pushrod. Now trial and error this until your original mark (no pressure on lifter) and your torqued down mark (pressure on lifter) has a difference of .030"-.050" You should only have to measure this on 1 pushrod per pedastal, because the hold down block will take care of both of them. This is called lashing or lifter preloading.

Your rockers could have come loose due to a number of reasons... a collapsed lifter... worn down rockers... worn down cam lobes. The ticking could be the rockers slapping or the lifter collapsed. Goodluck

thank you JTraik


i removed the number 5 and 6 rocker with the pedastal..and i think i know wha it was..the number 6 pushrod was off....i can sink it way down into the block or push it aside way to the side to were rocker 7 is.. so i tried findin were it sits normally and i think i got it but wen i go to put the pedastal on and rockers now number 5 doesnt want to reach the pushrod... any easier way 2 install these?

thank you JTraik


i removed the number 5 and 6 rocker with the pedastal..and i think i know wha it was..the number 6 pushrod was off....i can sink it way down into the block or push it aside way to the side to were rocker 7 is.. so i tried findin were it sits normally and i think i got it but wen i go to put the pedastal on and rockers now number 5 doesnt want to reach the pushrod... any easier way 2 install these?

Ok wait now... first did you make sure that particular cylinder was on the compression stroke? If you can move the pushrod all around like that, you may have just simply pulled it right out of the lifter which is pretty easy to do. Try putting it back in the seat... you will know its in the seat when you press on the rod and you feel a little bit of spring action, then refer to the procedure i posted above.

Is there an easier way? Yes, take off your intake so you can have a good look at what your doing. However if you take your manifold off you can not just slap it back on there when your done, your going to have to get a gasket for it and properly torque it down again. I can help you with that too if you do take it off.

ok i was hoping u were going to say 2 take the intake off because i cant see whas going on so if i can see wha it needs 2 go ontop of with the manifold off then thats wha i will do... i just got 2 new valve covers so i guess while im at it ill take the other valve cover off and put all new gaskets.. i might have 2 wait a week to purchase the gaskets but ill start taken it all down now.. thanks ill be asking u in a couple days wha i have 2 do lol

That's what I suspected. It's been awhile since I've been under a valve cover of a big Cad so I'm not sure but I do not remember there being any kind of adjustment for that.

How long could it possibly be? You are 18 years old!

It's been maybe a year or so. I don't have the best memory for details like that.

2morrow im takin off the intake...wish me luck guys

ill tell u one thing.. u guys are right on about learning,im learning ALOT about engines and how they work

2morrow im takin off the intake...wish me luck guys

ill tell u one thing.. u guys are right on about learning,im learning ALOT about engines and how they work

And you have real grease under your fingernails instead of keyboard dust.

And you have real grease under your fingernails instead of keyboard dust.


:green: the ladys love that

So how'd it go?

When I work on cars I usually end up getting enough grease under the nails that my keyboard has turned kind of a blackish color, it's gross, I should really clean it.

well didnt remove the manifold... a friend of mine told me not 2 just remove the other valve cover... he thinks i should instead buy all new rockers and pushrods doesnt think its the lifter... i already had another valve cover gasket so i didnt mind takin the other valve cover off just have 2 wait till i can get pushrods and rockers(lil less then a week).. he said do this and take it to a shop down here were they do engine flushes to remove all the sludge it has and it should run good then

You getting a shaft rocker system or just another set of T pedistal stock rockers?

You getting a shaft rocker system or just another set of T pedistal stock rockers?

I would highly recommend that he replace them with T-Peds... We know that, untouched, there is uneven clearances between the rockers and the pushrods. This, like before could be caused by worn cam lobes, collapsed lifters, worn rockers... So if we are going to work around this problem than you need to install tpeds so you can independtly torque the hold-down blocks to meet the required clearances. If you installed a shaft system then you would @#$% up the shaft by having diffrent torque measurements on the hold-down blocks. Theres no real way of telling what the problem is until you have everything out and have it all checked. Again this is more than likely just a workaround.

got all the carb off and all the intake bolts but the AC compressor do i have 2 completly remove it or can i just unbolt it from the intake?

also i cant tell 2 good but is there a bolt were the water neck is?(in order for the intake 2 be removed)

thanks

btw.

i had planned Tpedestal just so i wouldnt make things complicated but i was lookin at the #5 cam.... just a thought lol

im pretty sure im going 2 be keepin this on jacks for a couple weeks because im planing to get a new cam,lifters,timming chain and MAYBE either rebuild the heads or just get pushrods n rockers... but i also think i want another intake and carb...one with not so many tubes n hoses lol...K.I.S.S. .....stay tuned :D

You don't have to remove the A/C compressor. Just unbolt it and set it on top of the battery. Secure it with a zip tie or something. You don't have to do anything to the waterneck to remove the intake.

A cam would be a good idea if you had the money. #5 or #10 from MTS would really help, along with a dual exhaust. Call up Al and ask his opinion on a cam for it.

I doubt you can fit a different intake (edelbrock) under your hood. The Q-jet is your best option. If it's dogged out, rebuild it.

btw.

i had planned Tpedestal just so i wouldnt make things complicated but i was lookin at the #5 cam.... just a thought lol

im pretty sure im going 2 be keepin this on jacks for a couple weeks because im planing to get a new cam,lifters,timming chain and MAYBE either rebuild the heads or just get pushrods n rockers... but i also think i want another intake and carb...one with not so many tubes n hoses lol...K.I.S.S. .....stay tuned :D

Just pull the motor and rebuild it, if you dont have the money then dont spend it on all this stuff your talking about... id wait till you have the cash for the whole project.

well the reason is i have 2 replace these things in order 2 get it running good... so might as well get better parts for it i mean a rebuild isnt TOTALLY out of the question but if the motor still has alot of years why do it right now? wha else would be in a rebuild? all the rest of the internals(rods,pistons,crank?)

thanks for the help again i do appreciate it alot

You don't have to remove the A/C compressor. Just unbolt it and set it on top of the battery. Secure it with a zip tie or something. You don't have to do anything to the waterneck to remove the intake.

A cam would be a good idea if you had the money. #5 or #10 from MTS would really help, along with a dual exhaust. Call up Al and ask his opinion on a cam for it.

I doubt you can fit a different intake (edelbrock) under your hood. The Q-jet is your best option. If it's dogged out, rebuild it.

would #10 be 2 much for daily driving(once its up and running)?

ive ben reading and people do say Qjet is good but is there one with less plumbing? i dont kno the most about carbs im just askin cause it seemed like there was a ton of stuff going in and out fo this carb...and the charcole canister that goes to it there is a way 2 bypass it???

well the reason is i have 2 replace these things in order 2 get it running good... so might as well get better parts for it i mean a rebuild isnt TOTALLY out of the question but if the motor still has alot of years why do it right now? wha else would be in a rebuild? all the rest of the internals(rods,pistons,crank?)

thanks for the help again i do appreciate it alot

The first part of that is bit of a jumble and hard to decipher... however bearings... headwork... boring... pistons... balancing, lots of stuff goes into a rebuild. Your not going to get full potential out of that cam if your just gonna slap it in a worn out engine. It will run better dont get me wrong. Get about 2.5-3k and do it all right!

#10 wouldnt be too much for a daily driver, it would just make it extremly enjoyable :)

What do you mean by less plumbing? The Q-jet has it's fuel line, the line from the PCV valve (if you have one) and possibly the line from the fuel vapor evaporater tank (again, if you have one). That's it.

it seemed like alot more hoses... like i got all 3 hoses off the evaporator tank then there was a hose on the drive side another one infront of the carb...seemed like damn this thing has a bunch of hoses i have no idea were to... i said it before this is the first time i ever jumped into something like this lol so if i ask dumb questions bare wit me... a normaly carb has all these hoses? or like u said 2 main hoses(pcv and fuel)?

i would do number 10 but... would anything else need 2 be done 2 the engine or drivetrain? before i did that

The first part of that is bit of a jumble and hard to decipher... however bearings... headwork... boring... pistons... balancing, lots of stuff goes into a rebuild. Your not going to get full potential out of that cam if your just gonna slap it in a worn out engine. It will run better dont get me wrong. Get about 2.5-3k and do it all right!

i would if i had that kind of money but it would take alot of time to save up for something like that... im just lookin to improve it best i can without having to do a rebuild... i thought wha im doing now is major work but its turning out 2 be not so bad.. as long as this does fix the ticking and most other problems with the engine.. but id rather just keep the engine in and work around it.. maybe once i get a better daily driver i might think about pullin the engine and finding a 500ci but i just want some upgrades on it for now, but if u can check the other questions i had about the carb... i still have ALOT more questions about the engine and drivetrain lol thank you again for the help

My theory is if you're making good compression and not burning oil, the bottom end is fine. If you're aiming for a 600hp street machine, sure rebuild the bottom end and step up to forged (or at least KB) pistons and rods, but on a mild engine like this there is no real point in messing with the bottom end.

There are 3 hoses for the evaporator tank, one coming from the gas tank, one going into the carb, and one going towards the ground (for purge). So the evaporator tank will have three hoses. The carb will have two hoses going to it, the hose from the PCV valve and the hose from the evaporator tank. Then it will have the fuel line. That should be it. So, to recap, 3 things going to carb (fuel, PCV, and line from evaporator tank). There are three hoses attached to the evaporator tank (from gas tank, to carb, and purge)

but i can bypass the evaportator? so its just 2 lines going into the carb

You can bypass it, but no reason to do so. the evaporator works like so: There is a line from the gas tank that goes to it, this line is where the evaporated gas, or fumes goes. They go into the evaporator tank and are stored there until you start the car. Then the carb pulls the stored fumes in through the line and burns it with the rest of the mixture. If you want to bypass it, just have the line from the tank just ending with an open end going no where. With that the gas fumes just go into the air, instead of being burned in the engine.

hmm... so its just fumes in it? i guess i wanted to bypass it so theres less plumbing going on the guy who owned it before me told me he disconnected it once and the engine felt "starved" so he put it back on and it went back to normal

I don't know what he's on about.


Disconnecting it won't do harm to anything but teh environment. As I said before, it's simply emissions equipment to keep gas vapors from escaping into the atmosphere.

I don't know if I'm going to run mine or not. It doesn't help or hurt me, because we don't have emissions testing of any sort here. Doesn't really matter.

same here florida doesnt have testing anymore so i guess im just gonna take it off...would i need 2 plug anything up on the carb or the fuel line from the gas tank to the canister?

Yeah you should plug up the inlet on the carb where the line from the evaporator tank went in. Also don't do anything to the line coming from the gas tank to the canister because it still needs to escape to somewhere, so just leave it open so the fumes will just flow into the engine compartment

any advice before i buy these?

COMP CAM
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=CCA-94-302-5&N=4294908226 4294908225 4294925054 4294925232 4294887637&Ntt=&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=

MELLING LIFTERS
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MEL%2DJB%2D951&N=4294908226+4294908225+4294925054+4294925232+4294 892901&autoview=sku

CLOYES ROLLER TIMMING CHAIN
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CLO%2D9%2D3139&N=4294908226+4294908225+4294925054+4294925232+4294 892074&autoview=sku

only thing i have left to find is the pushrods and rockers which they sell at the cad500 site...intake i was lookin at the edelbroke but im reading theres things i can do to the intake and Qjet so i need 2 read up more before i get anything new for that

Okay, the cam is the same one I am putting in my engine, but I would advise against it. The only reason it's going into mine is because I bought it a while back. I would say go with the #10 grind from MTS, but you should really call Al and ask him which cam he recommends.

I don't know anything about lifters and lifter brands, but if you get the comp cam just get the kit which comes with lifters. If you get an MTS cam, get the lifters from Al.

The Cloyes timing set is great.

I don't know about from the Cad company, but Potter sells roller tip rockers tha come with everything including hardware, etc and custom pushrods to fit it for $550. Which rocker set from Cad Co. are you referring to?

The Edelbrock won't fit under your hood, nor will it house an AC compressor.

If you have a machine shop cut out the center of the stocker, it will flow 94% of the Edelbrock AT WORST. Check it out: www.500caddy.us and click on "Manifold" on the left side.

Rebuild the Q-jet, or buy a JET Stage 1 Q-jet, which is a Q-jet built with a lot of better parts such as bronze throttle shaft bushings, etc whcih prevent vacuum leak and something else done to something to solve sticky throttle and bogging problems.

Go to www.jetchip.com and then click on carbs, then go down to Quadrajet and find that.

ok so lets say #10 cam with the lifters from mts(ill call him just 2 make sure he thinks 10 is ok)

the rockers i was thinking were just stock replacements but let me check that site out...potters? is that mts also?

having the intake machined would prolly be my best options because theres a big machine shop near my house and i can still keep the AC

the carb i might try 2 see about rebuilding the carb or replacing certain parts of it because it works but ill check that site out...there is stage 2 and 3 Qjets also right?

Yeah, good idea. Call Al and confirm, then order.

Stock replacement rockers would be fine, I didn't know the ones you wanted were stock replacement. If I were you I would get stock replacement to save money, they are all you will need with your build. Also Potters rockers that I mentioned aren't listed on his site anyways.

Yes, I agree that machining the intake would be the best option. Go to the site I linked you to and find where they cut the center out, and print the pictures of it off to show your machinist, in case they aren't familiar with it.

If your carb is fine, then don't worry about it, but I would suspect it needs at least a rebuild. Jet does have STage 2 and 3 Q-jets, and 3 is for racing. I don't know about Stage 2 for your build, it's just borderline. Once again, call and ask about it. You should at least order the bronze throttle shaft bushing kit, it solves a lot of problems.

emailed AL and he got back to me...#10 it is and should work fine with the setup im going to run but when i put the exhaust system its gonna run alot better..

and about the carb well maybe i could rebuild it...the jury is still out on if i want to keep the Qjet of get a edelbroke though.

tomorrow off comes the AC comepressor and intake.... should i just remove eveyrthing? heads also being that i need to remove the pulley assembly might as well remove the heads n replace the gaskets right? lol

Yeah, #10 sounds good. That's what I thought.

You could rebuild the carb. I wouldn't get the Edelbrock, its just a waste when for way cheaper you could get a Stage 1 or Stage 2 Quadrajet from JET built specifically for your engine.

Your head gaskets are fine. No need to replace them. Heads don't have to come off either. Radiator, etc will have to come out so that you can slide the cam out though.

Yeah, #10 sounds good. That's what I thought.

You could rebuild the carb. I wouldn't get the Edelbrock, its just a waste when for way cheaper you could get a Stage 1 or Stage 2 Quadrajet from JET built specifically for your engine.

Your head gaskets are fine. No need to replace them. Heads don't have to come off either. Radiator, etc will have to come out so that you can slide the cam out though.

good thing i drained the coolant out then.... but since the radiators comin out..... might as well get new hoses....maybe the nice looking ones :D lol

do they sell the rebuild stage 2 kits at summit? let me check see wha it cost...

The only place you can get the throttle shaft bushing kit is from JET. Theirs are made of bronze and are a lot better. But A Stage 1 or Stage 2 Q-jet from JET you don't rebuild yourself. You phone them up and tell them that you want to purchase a stage 1 or 2 Q-jet and then you get to tell them your setup specs and they build you a carb that works with it. It will be just bolt on and go.

UPDATE:

both number 5 and 6 pushrods were completly off the lifters..number 5 was stuck on the side of were the lifter goes in thats why i didnt move...number 6 was just going everywere but i sat both on the lifter and put the rockers back on n tightened the pedestal and...it looks fine... im starting to think the lifters werent bad at all.. and the cam looked pretty good also.

:wacky:

:wacky:
:kick:

UPDATE:

both number 5 and 6 pushrods were completly off the lifters..number 5 was stuck on the side of were the lifter goes in thats why i didnt move...number 6 was just going everywere but i sat both on the lifter and put the rockers back on n tightened the pedestal and...it looks fine... im starting to think the lifters werent bad at all.. and the cam looked pretty good also.

How did you determine if the cam was good or not? What color was the wear area on the lobes?

Doesn't matter anyways, because I think that he is now goign with #10 MTS grind, and lifters and pushrods from MTS as well.

How did you determine if the cam was good or not? What color was the wear area on the lobes?
well i guess i was expecting to see sludge on it but it was prolly the cleanest part i can find..almost loooked like chrome only other color i saw was very small light brown i guess were your saying is the only color difference i saw..but terriable one is correct, i might as well do it now and not have 2 worry about it later

had a question... i know the 500s are suppose to be the better engines but wha kinda of power can i expect from a 425? with the big cam,new lifters,timming chain, exhuast 2.5" and heads... machined intake, new carb and lastly rebuild heads... i mean is 400hp/500tq something can i should try 2 get? or thats out of the question?

im just asking because a friend of mine is offering me a 454 chevy engine very cheap and ive ben lookin at part and it has alot more parts and at almost half the cost...

any adviced would be appriciated

400/500 is a bit much for the combo you described with no portwork on the heads, no headers, stock size valves, etc...

Yeah I'd love to get around 450/550 with my 500, and that build includes .540 lift cam, 2.5" dual exhaust, headers, machined intake, ported heads, 2.11/1.77 valves, KB 9:1 pistons, and a holley electric fuel pump w/ JET Stage 2 Quadrajet. I think you are setting your hopes a bit high.

have a quick question it might have ben answered but i need a clear answer, if i replace the lifters do i have to replace the cam? i know it would be best but i guess im asking would it NEED to be replaced if i do new lifters?

thank you again

You don't have to replace the cam if you replace the lifters, as long as it doesn't look too worn or out of shape.

got some pics up :thumbsup:

Cool, man. It reminds me too much of my old 78...

doesnt look 2 good from the pics lol but its solid, im really unsure if am keeping this one the main reason i do want to is cause the engine.. i checked out a 89 fleetwood with a 307 and even with the bad pushrods this 79 had it felt alot stronger but if i can fix this engine i want to keep it... right now im contimplating getting the #10 cam or just buyin one off summit i think its $160 +lifters and the #10 is $260 w/lifters but i need longer pushrods also.. right now the way i see it is i need these parts mandatory :

-cam $160-260
-lifters $50( or 0 of i buy the #10)
-timing chain $90
-valley pan $30
-timming chain cover gasket ??
-water neck w/gasket ??
-hei tune up kit $70

monday i get to order parts

Why can't you reuse the old valley pan?

You're getting the cloyes true roller timing set, right? Which vendor has it for $90?

Oh, and get the MTS #10. It's just plain cooler that way.

Yeah the cams from Summit are the Comp grinds. Not that they are bad but the MTS 10 grind is a lot leaner and meaner

i just figured its $30 might as well do it now, mine is ok has some sludge on the underside but i thought i should just get a new one

summit has them for $91.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CLO%2D9%2D3139&N=4294908226+4294908225+4294925054+4294925232&autoview=sku

im guessing i need the 0.030" longer pushrods this may be a dumb question bout is it $5.14 for the set right not each?

in any case i should be ordering the cam,lifters and timming chain monday or tuesday but im going to have to wait 2 more weeks to get the rest :(

You could clean up the old pan if you wanted to, but the reason I replaced mine is the gaskets were shot. How are yours?

I would think that that is $5.14 each, because good pushrod sets can get up to like $100 and if I estimate right that would be like $82 or so so that sounds right.

So are you ordering your cam and pushrods from Al? That's the best way to go IMHO...buying closely related parts from one vender...that's what I did.

heres some pics of my 90 deville... SOMEONE who i wont mention but hes TERRIBLE with engines lol is trying to convince me to pull the 425 out and just drive this for a while...

Wow sounds like a smart guy!

Lol

Yeah the cams from Summit are the Comp grinds. Not that they are bad but the MTS 10 grind is a lot leaner and meaner

The cams that MTS sells are all from Comp but its a custom grind requested by MTS. Comp makes the cams...

The cams that MTS sells are all from Comp but its a custom grind requested by MTS. Comp makes the cams...

Yes I know that. Potters cams are too. I was saying that the cams at Summit were Comp grinds, and also saying that the MTS #10 comp grind is a lot leaner and meaner than any of the "off the shelf" comp grinds offered by Summit. Bad wording on my part.