: Only starts with starting fluid - '97 SLS



DatBoiMartel
05-24-14, 12:19 PM
I have a 97 seville sls. For the longest i had to hold key along time for cold starts. Sometimes it would drain the battery and eventually I used starting fluid to start it up. Slowly it would get worst and worst till it would die bAttery fast. Now I have to use starting fluid all the time! If I let car sit 4 hours or so it's needed. Jus a spray. Battery will be almost deD sometimes but the stating fluid will catch and it'll start up. It runs smoothly after that. Only codes are for rss and seal on tcc. Maybe it's a bad fuel pump? I hear that come on. Tried primering by turning key fwrd and back but still needs spray. Help

Submariner409
05-24-14, 02:22 PM
Rent a fuel pressure test gauge from a large parts house. It attaches to the fuel rail test port Schrader valve, capped by a black plastic cap, at the (looking over the radiator) at the front right end of your fuel rail. Key: ON should produce about 38 - 42 psi, running should be over 40 to about 47.

If not, you have fuel pump, fuel line, or filter problems................ filters are usually NOT the problem - and replacing your fuel pump module requires a complete tank drop. (2000 and later have a hatch in the trunk floor).

What gasoline - brand and octane - do you run, what is your highway gas mileage, and have you ever run a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON through the gas tank ? ALWAYS keep your fuel tank above 1/3 full except for long highway runs on which the tank will be filled at the next stop.

Ranger
05-24-14, 02:42 PM
Don't overlook the FPR. Simple easy check once it's running.

DatBoiMartel
05-25-14, 03:27 AM
So how can I tell if fuel line or pump? Any way with out testing pressure?
Where is fuel regulator?

Submariner409
05-25-14, 11:19 AM
FPR (the Acronyms sticky ^^) is in the fuel rail right rear - looking over the radiator, engine cover removed. It's retained by a snap-around clip.

Carefully pull off the vacuum hose - any raw fuel in the nipple or hose means replacement. NAPA or RockAuto. (NOT AutoZone).

If you break one of the plastic vacuum lines or if the rubber connector(s) are deteriorated, it can be replaced with one length of proper sized rubber vacuum hose from the Help! racks at any parts store.

Ranger
05-25-14, 11:52 AM
So how can I tell if fuel line or pump? Any way with out testing pressure?
No. You have to check the fuel pressure.


Where is fuel regulator?
Red circle
Yellow circle is the fuel pressure test port.

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/8674/fpr.jpg

basscatt
05-25-14, 03:23 PM
Sometimes it would drain the battery

Slowly it would get worst and worst till it would die bAttery fast.

Battery will be almost deD sometimes


do a LOAD TEST on the battery -

and a DRAW TEST on the starter -

DatBoiMartel
10-10-14, 09:24 PM
This was my first post and I NEVER came back. Stupid I know
I've changed a lot of things. I haven't checked pressure but I kno it comes on. I let fuel out and it sprays good. FPR new and good. Filter good. What could be wrong with line? I've used fuel inj cleaner.
Changed flap on end of manifold. Cleaned throttle body egr ect
Still spraying. Running lean codes

DatBoiMartel
10-10-14, 09:30 PM
Pcm p0137 p0171 p0174
His 0603 1599
B1552
Acm b1348
Pzm b0533

Ranger
10-10-14, 09:49 PM
Codes are meaningless without their definitions, but I recognize P0171 & P0174. Both banks are running lean. You have a vacuum leak that is affecting both banks. Possibly the "flap on end of manifold" aka manifold over pressurization relief valve.

JoeTahoe
10-11-14, 09:18 AM
you need to get the fuel pressure checked with a fuel pressure tester. I believe you can rent one from auto zone or advance.

DatBoiMartel
10-25-14, 05:29 PM
I checked the flap. Even took out and cleaned. No leak there or couldn't find one any where else

Ranger
10-25-14, 09:08 PM
Have you checked your fuel pressure as advised?