: Oil pan bolt torque



docdonut
09-09-05, 08:45 PM
What is the torque spec on the oil pan bolts? I did a search but can't find it. I think I read somewhere in the forum that it was 7-9 ft-lbs but I want to be sure. Thanks

blunted
09-09-05, 09:37 PM
This is coming from my Factory Service Manual (94 eldo with N*)...
- "Tighten bolts to 10 N*m (9lb.ft.) in sequence shown in figure 37"

If you need the sequence that the bolts get tightened in, i'll scan it for you.

docdonut
09-10-05, 04:51 AM
I am going to try to reduce my oil leak by removing the bolts one at a time and cleaning the threads with brake cleaner, then applying thread sealant. Shouldn't need the sequence if I do it one at a time. The torque should be the same on my 96 Concours 4.6 N*
Thanks

blunted
09-10-05, 03:26 PM
Let me know how it goes.. i have a pretty bad leak from my pan bolts and plan on trying this as well.

docdonut
09-10-05, 04:06 PM
I will let you know. I am kindof slow so it may take a week or so. The drips are getting blown onto the exhaust and it has a burning oil smell that gets into the vent system inside the car when the car is not moving so I run the ac on recirculate all the time. I intend to clean all of that excess oil off and see if the thread sealant works.

dkozloski
09-10-05, 06:10 PM
There is a Balkamp sealing product sold at NAPA, comes in a tube, looks like strawberry jam, and uses a spray primer. This stuff will stick butter to bacon. I've even used it on exposed edges of gasket leaks after cleaning up everything as you suggest and it works like magic.

Ranger
09-10-05, 07:13 PM
This stuff will stick butter to bacon.
:histeric:

dkozloski
09-11-05, 12:07 AM
Actually it sticks like sh!t to a blanket.

docdonut
09-11-05, 03:55 AM
Does the Balkamp product work better than the permatex thread sealant for this situation? I assume you clean out the bolt holes and spray the primer in the hole and on the bolt, then coat the bolts with the strawberry stuff and install. Will the bolts come out after everything dries if you have to remove the pan at a later date or does it work like some of the stronger loctites?

blunted
09-11-05, 03:04 PM
I'm wondering the same thing.. dkozloski did you mean you would apply it to the outside of the pan around the seal? I was about to pick up some of the Permatex too cause this oil leak is getting out of hand. I definetly wanna get the best stuff possible since i'm having the same problem as Doc.

dkozloski
09-11-05, 11:03 PM
I have to go over to NAPA in the morning so I'll get the part numbers and post them.

dkozloski
09-12-05, 03:37 PM
I just got home from the NAPA store. The part number of the sealer is 765-1154 Aneorobic Gasket Maker and the spray stuff is 765-1189 Surface Prep. This stuff fills in lots bigger gaps than the thread locker but remains flexible. Clean the bolts and the holes, spray the surface prep on the bolts and the holes, apply the sealer to the bolts, and screw them in. If you have leakage out a crack; clean the area well with brake cleaner, spray on the surface prep, smear some sealer over it, wait a little bit and spray surface prep over the top. Eventually the stuff will setup all the way to the surface and has sealed up some pretty bad leaks for me. Good luck.

Pjs
09-12-05, 05:48 PM
While resealing the bolts will work for some, the problem goes deeper for others, meaning that pulling the engine and replacing the seals is the only fix, I thought I'd post these pics from when mine was out because I'm sure most of the newer people here don't know how the bottom end is sealed. I thought it would be of interest to be able to visualize the joints themselves.

Photo # 736 is a block side of the oil manifold
Photo # 783 is the oil pan side of the manifold
Photo # 737 is the oil pan w/ seal and the windage tray sitting in it.

I tried tightening the bolts on mine but all that did was cause it to leak worse. The orginal seals in mine had shrunk to the point that no matter what I did, nothing short of replacing everything was going to fix it.

Patrick

docdonut
09-13-05, 09:12 PM
Thanks Dkozloski for the info. I think I will try it. Pjs thanks for the pics. As a personal opinion as a mechanical engineer, those seals do not look substantial enough to hold up over time and temp variation. Surface flatness and finish must be crucial. Is the gasket just a silicone o ring type material that is pressed in a groove? Is a coating of silicone put on in addition to the gasket?

docdonut
09-17-05, 01:11 PM
I finally cleaned the underside of the engine area and found the oil leak is right above the exhaust crossover pipe. It drips right on the pipe and causes the awful stink that comes in the vent system. I can't tell if the leak is coming from above the pan bolts or not but it may be. I will remove those bolts in the area and seal them anyway. I removed the plate that covers the exhaust crossover (is that just protection of the pipe) and could look up in the gap and see what looked like a gear (starter gear?). Could it be the rear engine seal leaking (it is oill not transmission fluid) rather than the seals between engine block sections? The leak seems very localized. Any ideas. I haven't tried the bolt sealer yet but I will although I don't believe that is the problem. I will check the torque on those bolts first. Maybe they are just loose (ha-ha).

docdonut
09-20-05, 02:58 AM
Here are the results of the bolt sealing exercise. Since the leak was around the crossover exhaust pipe, I removed about 5 of the pan bolts, those that were oily, one at a time and cleaned the bolts and threaded holes with brake cleaner. I sprayed the primer that Dkozloski recommended on each bolt and hole then dressed the bolt with the Napa sealant that looks like red jam and re-installed to the specified torque. Once the bolts were done I cleaned the oily area around the pan gasket as best I could and sprayed the primer and put the sealer over it. Then I sprayed some primer over the top. To me it seemed like the pan bolts were not tightened to torque prior to removal and sealing (I tested each one with the torque wrench prior to removal). Bottom line is they may have just been loose. The good news is the oil leak is down to 2-3 drips per day vs 2-3 drips every 5 minutes. Thanks for everyone's help.

mcowden
09-20-05, 12:33 PM
Here are the results of the bolt sealing exercise. Since the leak was around the crossover exhaust pipe, I removed about 5 of the pan bolts, those that were oily, one at a time and cleaned the bolts and threaded holes with brake cleaner. I sprayed the primer that Dkozloski recommended on each bolt and hole then dressed the bolt with the Napa sealant that looks like red jam and re-installed to the specified torque. Once the bolts were done I cleaned the oily area around the pan gasket as best I could and sprayed the primer and put the sealer over it. Then I sprayed some primer over the top. To me it seemed like the pan bolts were not tightened to torque prior to removal and sealing (I tested each one with the torque wrench prior to removal). Bottom line is they may have just been loose. The good news is the oil leak is down to 2-3 drips per day vs 2-3 drips every 5 minutes. Thanks for everyone's help.

docdonut, glad you were able to mitigate the oil leak... Great work, and thank you very much for posting your results here. It will probably help someone else down the road.