: My cheap-ass tune up



davesdeville
08-31-05, 06:22 PM
Well I got some cash for my birthday on the 22nd, so I'm gonna spend some of it on my car. I figure it needs an oil change, plugs, wires, FPR and a new EGR valve (cleaning the thing 4 or 5 times didn't help.)

So I scoured the parts stores today and picked up a case of Valvoline 5W-30 non-synthetic for 1.29 a quart with a coupon and a mail in rebate (which I ALWAYS mail in.) I figure I'm not gonna change it until it's cold anyway since I don't put that many miles on the car per month. Got a Penzoil filter too.

Bought Bosch single-platinum plugs at $2.09 a piece since Delcos were over $6/ea and were the same type of plug. I went to Checker and asked about plug wires there, the guy said the cheapest they carry was like $70, but I went on their website and it came up with Accel wires for $30, so I asked for store pickup. It said they'd be ready in an hour, so they damn well better have 'em. I figure if they cause interferance and crap, I have 30 days to return them and get a refund, but I hope they work since the Delcos are so damn expensive.

For the FPR and EGR valve I plan to go to the U-Pull U-Save and get them there. If the FPR leaks, I'll return it, and if the EGR still throws a code I'll try my best to clean it, otherwise back it goes. I will do this until they're out of parts or I get what I need. I figure/hope it won't cost more than $40 this way.

So I'm officially a cheap SOB. If it all works out I'll be getting $375 or so worth of stuff for under $100. Maybe it will fix my slightly rough idle. I'll let you all know how those plug wires work out.

bigdaddy_lasvegas
08-31-05, 09:33 PM
dude thats a sweet idea...are you gonna replace the gas tank with a mouse on a wheel and a piece of cheese suspended infront of it?:cool2:

Ranger
08-31-05, 10:19 PM
Bought Bosch single-platinum plugs at $2.09 a piece since Delcos were over $6/ea and were the same type of plug.
Can't say much about the plug wires except you usually get what you pay for. Most people have reported better results with OEM wires.

The plugs , however, are another story. As you mentioned, they are singled platinum tipped. The A/C Delco 91-450's are dual platinum tipped. The Northstar ignition is a waste fire system, meaning that each plug fires on compression as well as exhaust stroke. If I recall correctly, in order to do this, four plugs fire positive to negative and the other four negative to positive. That means that four of your plugs will errode prematurely and won't last nearly as long as the OEM plugs. Sometimes the cheaper price is not worth the savings.

mcowden
09-01-05, 01:53 AM
Can't say much about the plug wires except you usually get what you pay for. Most people have reported better results with OEM wires.

The plugs , however, are another story. As you mentioned, they are singled platinum tipped. The A/C Delco 91-450's are dual platinum tipped. The Northstar ignition is a waste fire system, meaning that each plug fires on compression as well as exhaust stroke. If I recall correctly, in order to do this, four plugs fire positive to negative and the other four negative to positive. That means that four of your plugs will errode prematurely and won't last nearly as long as the OEM plugs. Sometimes the cheaper price is not worth the savings.

I'm with Ranger. I made the Bosch mistake before. When I finally ripped those pieces of $h1T out of there because I was having nasty misfire problems, two of the platinum tips had come off. A 25% failure rate after less than 40k miles is no good. They are cheap because they are junk. I would tell you to put a set of regular Delcos in there before spending one red cent on the Bosch plugs. At least those don't have tips to fall off.

EcSTSatic
09-01-05, 09:14 AM
The AC plugs are proven to be good for 100K miles. It's false economy to think a cheaper plug is better when it doesn't last as long. I'm as cheap as they come but my time is worth $$ to me. I hate doing things twice!
What good is the forum if you don't follow experienced advice?

Eldyfig
09-01-05, 10:44 AM
So I'm officially a cheap SOB.


Ok, but don't take it out on your car. I have also made that same mistake. I sent my Bosch plugs back to Bosch and got my money back.

Mitch3
09-01-05, 03:22 PM
I don't remember why, but shortly after I bought my 94 Eldo I decided it should have a tuneup. I went to a very reputable garage who had a history of working on Cadillacs and the Northstar. He put in new wires and plugs etc. and said he used Caddy recommended parts (wires, plugs, etc.). Total cost was over $600. I've never owned a Caddy before but most I ever paid for a tuneup was around $100 for all my other cars. After the shock wore off I just figured this is life with a Caddy...Live With It. The car has never run as good as it did before the tuneup but it's OK. I have since learned (on this forum) if you own a Northstar, don't fix it unless it's broken. Knock on wood-----I have never had a problem with my Eldo. I change the oil, filters, etc. and it seems to take care of itself.

EcSTSatic
09-01-05, 03:45 PM
Must have been a bad day at the garage then. An engine should not run worse after a tuneup. Especially one that cost $600. I would have taken it back :want:

oldgamer
09-01-05, 03:54 PM
... if you own a Northstar, don't fix it unless it's broken...

Exactly.
My car is 11 ears old and still have original plugs and wires. I'm not in rush to change them just because I got some cash. It runs fine. What if after couple month your car starts to have bad idle, missing or something else. What you going to change: plug or wires? Or both? Save that money for some other stuff. And why you don't use 10W-30 which is recommended (at least on my 94)?

jsjag
09-01-05, 06:46 PM
Can't say much about the plug wires except you usually get what you pay for. Most people have reported better results with OEM wires.

The plugs , however, are another story. As you mentioned, they are singled platinum tipped. The A/C Delco 91-450's are dual platinum tipped. The Northstar ignition is a waste fire system, meaning that each plug fires on compression as well as exhaust stroke. If I recall correctly, in order to do this, four plugs fire positive to negative and the other four negative to positive. That means that four of your plugs will errode prematurely and won't last nearly as long as the OEM plugs. Sometimes the cheaper price is not worth the savings.

I have also concluded that they fire on intake and exhaust. For another $18 you could have gotten all eight of the correct plug. To me it is worth $18 to not have to do the rear bank again for a long time.

The plug cables are the arteries of the ignition system. Just like your body you want good arteries to supply the energy flow. Before I knew better I went for the $70 cables but soon (in a matter of hours) decided the cables could not handle the high energy ignition. You would be better saving that $70 and waiting until you have another $50 and buy some 8mm Magnecore's. Those Magnecore's will last a long time and carry a big load of energy.

Egr valves, yea they are simple mechanisms and IMHO is a place you can go cheap.

Just am opinion ......one learned from experience.

davesdeville
09-02-05, 07:47 AM
Didn't realize the delco plugs were double tipped but I'd have noticed when I pulled the old ones out. I'll probably exchange the Bosch single platinums for Delcos, since the Delcos aren't actually much more expensive than other double platinums. Things like that are the reason I posted this thread.

I've got 30 days to decide on the plug wires. I notice anything bad, I return them. My time is NOT at all valuable so I can't lose. Well, I could lose if on day 31 all the insulation falls off, but I don't think that's gonna happen. I'd check the paperwork but it's in the car, I believe the store also has a 2 year warranty on these wires if they fail.

I don't see how any of this is "taking it out on my car" like some think, if these parts cause a problem, I change them. Otherwise I save money.

jsjag
09-02-05, 10:33 AM
Didn't realize the delco plugs were double tipped but I'd have noticed when I pulled the old ones out. I'll probably exchange the Bosch single platinums for Delcos, since the Delcos aren't actually much more expensive than other double platinums. Things like that are the reason I posted this thread.

I've got 30 days to decide on the plug wires. I notice anything bad, I return them. My time is NOT at all valuable so I can't lose. Well, I could lose if on day 31 all the insulation falls off, but I don't think that's gonna happen. I'd check the paperwork but it's in the car, I believe the store also has a 2 year warranty on these wires if they fail.

I don't see how any of this is "taking it out on my car" like some think, if these parts cause a problem, I change them. Otherwise I save money.

It isn't as much about being hard on your car as it is about long term maintenance. Let's say those wires do last 2 years, I would bet the warranty will pro-rate the warranty to you.

If they do make it to 2 years and go bad on the 25th month and you get arcing, misfires, etc. Do you start at the wires, the coils, the plugs? If your wires have been arcing without notice, that is hard on the coils. So you could be pounding your coils and may need new coils. Then from the misfire, you'll have some wet - fouled plugs and they can't be cleaned. So for your current $60 saving, in the long run it could cost you ......coils, some plugs and another set of wires. Add that up and it costs a lot more then the $60 you save on the best wires you can grab.

I think that is what people are trying to stress to you.

mcowden
09-02-05, 01:36 PM
It isn't as much about being hard on your car as it is about long term maintenance. Let's say those wires do last 2 years, I would bet the warranty will pro-rate the warranty to you.

If they do make it to 2 years and go bad on the 25th month and you get arcing, misfires, etc. Do you start at the wires, the coils, the plugs? If your wires have been arcing without notice, that is hard on the coils. So you could be pounding your coils and may need new coils. Then from the misfire, you'll have some wet - fouled plugs and they can't be cleaned. So for your current $60 saving, in the long run it could cost you ......coils, some plugs and another set of wires. Add that up and it costs a lot more then the $60 you save on the best wires you can grab.

I think that is what people are trying to stress to you.

Bingo! On top of that, there is the potential problem of bleeding into surrounding wiring or systems (blower motor). The Delcos are designed to work with the car. I don't know anything about the Magnecore wires that jsjag is using and will rely on his experiences to make a decision. If it was me, I would go with the Delcos because they're known to work well. The Magnecores are supposed to be good wires also, it's just the unknown of how they will respond on a Northstar. Cheapie wires are constructed poorly of inferior materials with poor engineering. As jsjag mentioned, they could cost you more than you saved by going with the cheaper wires.

Eldyfig
09-02-05, 02:57 PM
Didn't realize the delco plugs were double tipped but I'd have noticed when I pulled the old ones out.


They aren't exactly double tipped. The ground electrode and the central electrode are both platinum, hence dual platinum. The Bosch plugs have just a platinum ground electrode.

davesdeville
09-02-05, 09:06 PM
I figured that out now that I got the delco 41-950s and they were singles. "Dual platinum" is a bit misleading.

davesdeville
09-04-05, 07:54 AM
Well I did the oil change, serp. belt, and fifty bucks worth of 41-950 plugs today. The old plugs were pretty bad, some of the metal on both sides of the spark gap appeared to be gone, and I measured the gaps at between .065 and .075 or so which is a long way from .050. For now I've left the stock wires on there.

The Accel wires aren't shaping up as I'd hoped, but they're about what I expected. They're just universal wires and have the plug end connector attached, but if I were to use them I'd have to cut them to length and attach the coil end connectors myself. As I expected, I doubt I'll end up using them because they aren't designed to seal around the cam cover to keep moisture and crap out. The new wires are 8mm instead of 7mm so it would be damn near impossible to stick the old rubber sealing pieces on the new wires. Meh, so I wasted a dollar worth of gas and about a half hour of my time; I don't care.

Oh yeah, on the Accel wires... there's a rubber jacket around the wire, then inside of that is a white insulating material, and then in that is the conductor. The conductor appears to be a black plastic tube with a fibrous material inside it. I dunno if it's actually plastic, but it sure doesn't look conductive and it isn't copper like I'd expect. Anyone have any info on this?

Now for my real question, about the boots that seal the plug and plug connector side of the wire, you know the rubber parts that seal around the cam cover. Do the delco wires actually come with these things or do you have to somehow pull them off and stick them on the new wires?

davesdeville
09-04-05, 08:03 AM
Exactly.
My car is 11 ears old and still have original plugs and wires. I'm not in rush to change them just because I got some cash.

Why I'm doing all this is my EGR is throwing a code, the belt was squealing, the FPR failed the leak test and my car takes awhile to start, and I had a rough idle. How many miles are on your plugs? My car ran OK with plugs that had up to a .075" gap, but that probably cost me in the performance of the engine. My car has 107k, the plugs are good for 100k, changing them is a matter of preventative maintenence, kinda like changing oil when the oil life monitor decides it would be a good time, makes damn good sense to me. You people are so concerned with keeping to stock specs with wires and oils and plugs and everything, why is the plug-change interval differant for you?

davesdeville
09-04-05, 08:05 AM
To me it is worth $18 to not have to do the rear bank again for a long time.

The plug cables are the arteries of the ignition system. Just like your body you want good arteries to supply the energy flow. Before I knew better I went for the $70 cables but soon (in a matter of hours) decided the cables could not handle the high energy ignition....

The rear bank is easy, just move the coils out of the way and it's a piece of cake. How did you decide the cables couldn't handle it? Were there any signs of arcing or did you just decide?

davesdeville
09-04-05, 08:19 AM
What good is the forum if you don't follow experienced advice?

So if it's worthless for me to be on here, just send me a PM and I'll be out of your hair in no time. :yup:

Now that I think about it you know what's worthless? Bullshit like bigdaddy_lasvegas's post, that's the god damn definition of worthless. And the rest of you who think, "gee I'm so rich, F this kid who is broke and has other crap he has to spend money on. I can't see how something as trivial as money might be an issue."

I don't remember why I even posted this thread, I knew I was going to catch a ton of shit for it.

Oh yeah, I remember now, for the one or two helpful posts that I figured might sneak their way in. So a thank you goes out to Ranger and to some extent mcowden.

Eldyfig
09-04-05, 12:41 PM
I don't believe anyone is trying to push you out. Just call it a little constructive criticism. For someone who has been here for two years and has over 4000 posts, I would think you would know better than to use alternative plugs. Is there a specific reason you use 5W-30 oil?



And the rest of you who think, "gee I'm so rich, F this kid who is broke and has other crap he has to spend money on. I can't see how something as trivial as money might be an issue."

I doubt any of us are that rich or have money to throw away. Shoot, we are driving around in used caddies...happily though.

mcowden
09-04-05, 12:46 PM
So if it's worthless for me to be on here, just send me a PM and I'll be out of your hair in no time. :yup:

Now that I think about it you know what's worthless? Bullshit like bigdaddy_lasvegas's post, that's the god damn definition of worthless. And the rest of you who think, "gee I'm so rich, F this kid who is broke and has other crap he has to spend money on. I can't see how something as trivial as money might be an issue."

I don't remember why I even posted this thread, I knew I was going to catch a ton of shit for it.

Oh yeah, I remember now, for the one or two helpful posts that I figured might sneak their way in. So a thank you goes out to Ranger and to some extent mcowden.

To answer your earlier question, the Delco wire set does have the rubber boots. You don't have to remove anything from the original wires. Just remove them one at a time, replace them with the same wire length, and pitch the old ones.

There's no need to take any of this stuff personally. Everybody is just trying to help in their own way. The debate over OEM parts vs. aftermarket stuff will rage on for eternity. We got a long lecture from our old friend Rob one time about how the Delco wires are constructed and engineered specifically for the Northstar versus how most aftermarket sets are made and why they wouldn't work as well on the N*. His knowledge and logic were pretty sound, and I don't remember hearing anyone say they had problems with the Delco wire set, so that's why I'm saying to use them. Same goes for the plugs. It's just a matter of risk versus reward. To me, the Delco stuff is lowest risk and known good reward. I only know that Bosch plugs suck donkeys and, according to Rob, the Delcos are better engineered for a N* than other wire sets, so it just makes sense to me to stick with what is known to work well. jsjag has volunteered to be the guinea pig for the Magnecor 8mm wire set. I hope it works well for him and that he will post his long-term results. Chances are, we won't even be members here any longer when the wires start giving him problems, so we will probably never know how well they work and for how long.

You can use whatever you want and it will probably work fine for a while. Rob himself said you can put any plugs in there that fit and are the correct heat range, and they'll work fine for a while. For how long they will work well is another matter entirely. The double platinums will last a long time because they don't corrode as badly. Copper electrode plugs will erode before platinum tips will, but they'll work fine in the interim. Aftermarket wire sets might be the same story, but we have no reports from users to tell us one way or another, so the results are just unknown.

I changed my plugs and wires because I was getting a misfire. It wasn't very consistent, but it was there and it was getting worse. First change was to Bosch plugs and I left the wires alone. They worked fine for about 38k miles, then I got bad misfiring. When I took out the Bosch plugs, 2 of them had lost the platinum electrode tip, so I assume that's why they quit firing. They were obviously complete junk. I changed them out with 41-950s and Delco wire set 748J as recommended in the manual and the car starts faster and runs better overall, without any doubt at all. If I still have the car when it needs another set of plugs and wires, I'll use the current GM recommended sets on it and probably be satisfied with it again.

The conductive core of most spark plug wires is not copper but some kind of carbon-impregnated fiber. That's why it looks black and fibrous. There are copper conductor wire sets, but you might want to read this interesting Popular Mechanics article for more information:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272351.html?page=1&c=y

Did you change out your FPR? I just ordered one and have not received it yet. Mine is also leaking and I'm having hot start problems. What model plugs were in your car before you changed them?

Let us know exactly what you wind up doing and how it works out.

zonie77
09-04-05, 01:23 PM
Dave,

I'm sorry so many people criticized your thread. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to so I thought it was pretty good.

We get so many people on here that ask all kinds of questions, most of which have a bunch of threads already, then they go to the dealer, or disappear without telling us how they fixed their problem. Your thread might have encouraged a few to do something themselves.

Let us know how the plug wires hold up. I think it's a wise move to use factory wires, but some others might work well. You're a willing guinea pig. Thanks

oldgamer
09-05-05, 12:36 AM
Why I'm doing all this is my EGR is throwing a code, the belt was squealing, the FPR failed the leak test and my car takes awhile to start, and I had a rough idle. How many miles are on your plugs? My car ran OK with plugs that had up to a .075" gap, but that probably cost me in the performance of the engine. My car has 107k, the plugs are good for 100k, changing them is a matter of preventative maintenence, kinda like changing oil when the oil life monitor decides it would be a good time, makes damn good sense to me. You people are so concerned with keeping to stock specs with wires and oils and plugs and everything, why is the plug-change interval differant for you?

My car has 70500 miles. I didn't change plugs and wires cause it runs great and idle is pretty good. Sure your plugs are much older (by milage) and possible should be changed. I only change part that really should be change. I never change parts as preventative maintenence.
I don't think anybody think that money isn't issue here, cause why in that case we need that forum at all? What I think is people just try to share their experience. Sometime when you change not one but some parts in same time and something happened then, you never know what parts is faulty and you spent even more money then. Plugs should work not month and not even year. That's why buying a bit more expensive plugs can be a good investment. In opposit I bought a battery pretty cheap, cause I don't expect to keep it for long.

davesdeville
09-05-05, 07:18 AM
To answer your earlier question, the Delco wire set does have the rubber boots. You don't have to remove anything from the original wires. Just remove them one at a time, replace them with the same wire length, and pitch the old ones.

...

The conductive core of most spark plug wires is not copper but some kind of carbon-impregnated fiber. That's why it looks black and fibrous. There are copper conductor wire sets, but you might want to read this interesting Popular Mechanics article for more information:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272351.html?page=1&c=y

Did you change out your FPR? I just ordered one and have not received it yet. Mine is also leaking and I'm having hot start problems. What model plugs were in your car before you changed them?

Let us know exactly what you wind up doing and how it works out.

Good to hear about the delco wires because removing those boots seems like a real PITA.

I haven't changed out my FPR or EGR yet, I've been waiting until my friend was ready to go with me to the junkyard to pull a couple parts for his Taurus SHO as well. If they're open tomorrow he and I will go then. I really hope I get an EGR that either works or can be cleaned, I'm bringing a can of brake cleaner. I don't hold great hopes of finding a good FPR, but they're so easy to pull and check that I may as well try.

Still haven't made up my mind on the wires but if I can think of a way to put the old boots onto the accel wires I will try them out and see how it goes. Or I might just use some scrap rubber my mom has lying around for her art projects and see if I can make my own plug. I might just put off wires for awhile, I'll test the old wires resistance and for arcing but they don't look too great on the outside. Can't tell much of a "butt-dyno" difference with the new plugs but I haven't noticed it idling rough anymore (then again the rough idle was sort of intermittant anyway.)

41-926 I believe was the part number on the old plugs but I'm not entirely sure and can't check since I don't know what happened to them (did the change at a friends house and they probably got tossed.)

Night Wolf
09-05-05, 11:30 PM
I agree, OEM plugs.

All 3 of my cars have Xact wires... they are 8mm, and actually pretty good. All are exact same size as OEM, and even on the 4.9, which 1 clyinder had a special boot thing on it, the Xact wire had it too...

for the 425, 3800 and 4.9, they were around $35, beats the $65 for Delco, and no problems yet.

I have Bosch +4's in the 4.9 and regular AC's in the 3800 and 425... can't say I have a problem with any of my plugs/wires, but if I did the plugs on the 4.9 agian, I would get AC Delco double platinum speced for the '95 4.9.

EcSTSatic
09-05-05, 11:42 PM
So if it's worthless for me to be on here, just send me a PM and I'll be out of your hair in no time. :yup:

It wouldn't be my place to ask anyone to leave unless they were just trolling. Obviously you are sincere about needing to save money (cold hard cash) while keeping your Caddy running. Even though I consider myself a cheap b*&^%$d, I'll spend the extra money once if I believe it is a better investment over the long run. Both time and money considered.

My comment about the forum was based on an attitude towards refining the best care and feeding tips from tried and true results and allowing owners easy access to that advice. others have already spent the time and money testing, why should the rest of us have to?

Sometimes you get lucky when you compromise quality for price, sometimes it's not a compromise at all but a real, tangible savings. maybe we'll be around long enough to read about the long term effects of your setup.http://cadillacforums.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif

I sure hate to see those 'regular or premium" threads popping up so often!

jsjag
09-06-05, 11:09 AM
The rear bank is easy, just move the coils out of the way and it's a piece of cake. How did you decide the cables couldn't handle it? Were there any signs of arcing or did you just decide?

Arcing / carbon tracking and misfires.

jsjag
09-06-05, 11:28 AM
So if it's worthless for me to be on here, just send me a PM and I'll be out of your hair in no time. :yup:

Now that I think about it you know what's worthless? Bullshit like bigdaddy_lasvegas's post, that's the god damn definition of worthless. And the rest of you who think, "gee I'm so rich, F this kid who is broke and has other crap he has to spend money on. I can't see how something as trivial as money might be an issue."

I don't remember why I even posted this thread, I knew I was going to catch a ton of shit for it.

Oh yeah, I remember now, for the one or two helpful posts that I figured might sneak their way in. So a thank you goes out to Ranger and to some extent mcowden.

I thought this was a mechanical discussion, not one of economics? Sure if you don't have the money, use whatever part you can that is of reasonable build. Gee....I was only giving you some of my past experiences with cars. I've done everything from installing motors in various cars I owned to the smallest maintenance.

If you want I can tell you my story of wasting a lot of time and $1,500 on a jag engine replacement but in my hurry to get the engine into the car, I took the short cut and didn't check end float before installing that engine. You can take a guess what happened after I got everything buttoned up and started that car.

If you only have (X) $$$$ at the moment, that is it. Been there done that. :)

mtflight
09-09-05, 03:23 PM
Well I got some cash for my birthday on the 22nd, so I'm gonna spend some of it on my car. I figure it needs an oil change, plugs, wires, FPR and a new EGR valve... Maybe it will fix my slightly rough idle. I'll let you all know how those plug wires work out.

Hey Dave, glad to have you back.

How did the tune-up work out? Does the car run smoother, fuel economy improved, etc?

I know some of my spark plugs have variable gaps, and I am interested to see if my idle will become smoother and about fuel economy.

It seems great when I'm doing 45 (high 20s), but on average, I'm barely getting 18MPG with a little highway... and more like 14 and change when it's only short stop-n-go trips.

$$$$$$

Edit: she just turned 80,002 this morning.

cguthrie
09-09-05, 06:40 PM
I believe the if it's not broken don't fix it regarding plugs came from an experienced engineer who used to hang out here. I'm sure he saw many people causing more harm than good.

While I've done most of the mechanical stuff, belts, water pump, t-stat, new dexcool, my car still runs like it did when I bought it, and gets 22 mpg driving around. So until it starts missing, or milage drops, I'll just keep changing the oil and keeping my fingers crossed.

My dad was always big on changing the cheap paper air filters often, around every 10K, and that may still be one of the cheapest ways to keep your gas milage and performance up!

Best,

CG
99STS 117K

Ranger
09-09-05, 07:24 PM
My dad was always big on changing the cheap paper air filters often, around every 10K, and that may still be one of the cheapest ways to keep your gas milage and performance up!

Best,

CG
99STS 117K
That was true on carburated engines but will not help gas milage on newer computer controled injected engines.

cguthrie
09-10-05, 09:16 AM
Good to know Ranger, and another reason for me not to feel guilty!

However, I probably should clean the throttle body more often, since I've been using a K&N for 60K.

CG

davesdeville
09-11-05, 07:04 AM
Hey Dave, glad to have you back.

How did the tune-up work out? Does the car run smoother, fuel economy improved, etc?

I know some of my spark plugs have variable gaps, and I am interested to see if my idle will become smoother and about fuel economy.

It seems great when I'm doing 45 (high 20s), but on average, I'm barely getting 18MPG with a little highway... and more like 14 and change when it's only short stop-n-go trips.

$$$$$$

Edit: she just turned 80,002 this morning.

Sadly the u-pull junkyard didn't have a single Northstar car. I'll check anyway whenever my friend goes down there for Taurus SHO parts. I get to help finish pulling the SHO engine tomorrow, that mofo is shoehorned in there, but that's a different story. I've been too busy to check any other junkyards yet but I will get to that Monday or Tuesday. So, having done only plugs I have noticed a marked improvement in my idle. It's still not perfect and I have heard some correlation between stuck EGR and a rough idle, so hopefully it will be totally smooth when I get the EGR done.

Your mileage doesn't sound too good... the only driving I do is short stop and go type trips, and I'm averaging 16.7. Cruising at 45 it always gets over 30, more like 40 if it's flat and steady driving.

I'll be returning the wires tomorrow since it would just be too much of a PITA to change the cam cover boots over to the new wires. Hope I'm not stuck with store credit... I'm going to test the resistance of the wires tomorrow and do the "mist the wires and watch for arcs" trick... now that I think about it I'll do that tomorrow (wouldn't want the magnaflows to wake the neighbors up :D .)

mtflight
09-12-05, 10:34 AM
Your mileage doesn't sound too good... the only driving I do is short stop and go type trips, and I'm averaging 16.7. Cruising at 45 it always gets over 30, more like 40 if it's flat and steady driving.

I just discovered that "sweet spot:" 45MPH. I get anywhere from 26-30s and 21 MPG on light uphill.

My 14.8mpg avg is at an avg mph of 20 mph or under, caused by literally a 4 mile trip with 7 stops. I just moved so that it's now a 7 mile trip with probably 9 stops--hopefully it will improve.

My biggest MPG hits are from zero up to 45... lol but especially parking lots, etc. I dunno... with this and my compressor acting like it has PMS, I give up haha.