: help with codes?



onecad
11-20-03, 06:18 PM
Ok....I have a 1994 eldorado, which i actually FINALLY just got today, even though i joined this forum about a month ago.
With everything I learned from reading while I awaited my eldorado, the very first thing I did was check my codes by pressing the off and warmer buttons.
If I understand correctly, I received no recent codes but four codes in the history, being SO10, SO13, SO44, and SO63, then the computer stopped at the signal "PCM?" And did not know what to do from there.

Anyway, I have noticed in driving the car, there is a slight, slight stumble/roughness as I press on the pedal while in park, between 800rpm to around 1000 rpm, then its smooth thereafter.

The only other thing I noticed, is a slight, but not every time, jump into first gear from park, and occasionally a slight jump hesitation going from a stopped position to driving.

If anyone could suggest anything I would appreciate.
Thanks in advance,
Joe

onecad
11-20-03, 06:46 PM
I forgot to mention one thing...the "service engine soon " mil is on.
when im checking codes, and shuts off when i exit diagnostics by pushing defog button.

One other thing i noticed as i checked the mil just a second ago, is that th idle while in park moves around between 600 rpm and 1000rpm, as i mentioned above its slightly stumbles.
thanks again
joe

elwesso
11-20-03, 08:29 PM
if you wouldnt mind, why dont you check and see what the codes mean.....

http://209.145.176.7/~090/awh/toc.html

onecad
11-20-03, 10:09 PM
S010 .................................. Left Front Damper Solenoid Valve Short to B+

S044 .................................................. ... Lift or Dive Signal Fault

S063 .............................................. Right Rear Position Sensor Fault


For some reason i cannot find a trouble code listing for SO13

I am more interested in what people might think about the hesitation/stumble problem i have posted. I don't seem to be getting any codes for that, and therefore in limbo as to the problem
thanks
joe

elwesso
11-20-03, 11:06 PM
Alright.... so is the stumble or whatever more like a vibration??? Like when you hit a certain speed the engine sort of shakes?

It kinda sounds like my car, and I have yet to figure out what it is....

Are you getting good gas mileage??? How long has this been happening?

onecad
11-21-03, 09:37 AM
Well i just got the car yesterday, and i still have to get it safetied before its on the road and i'm driving it day to day.
But the test runs that I have done, like i said above it only seems to be from idle rpm up to about 1000 rpm, its like a slight chugging. The only time it seems to do it is when its idling, or when you are at a stop(again idling) and begin to drive, so again, only from about idle rpm to around 1000rpm, then its smooth sailing.

P.S. Any idea about the slight jerk/hesitation i noticed when going from park to drive or when going from a stop to depressing the pedal?

AKPsiMC03
11-21-03, 12:13 PM
that hesitation and jerking sounds like motor or tranny mounts to me

RLLOVETT
11-21-03, 02:52 PM
How many miles? And have you checked plugs and wires? Also think about cleaning out your EGR valve.

onecad
11-21-03, 03:16 PM
the owner told me that he changed the plugs about 4 months ago but not the wires, however the wires, as i looked at them, seemed to be in excellent shape.
Anyway, the mileage is 136,000 miles.
So after removing the egr, how do I go about cleaning it??
thanks

RLLOVETT
11-21-03, 05:28 PM
Try the following link...don't drop the bolts down in the engine as you're reinstalling...
http://caddyinfo.netgetgoing.com/howto/egrvalvecleaning.htm

onecad
11-21-03, 06:07 PM
ok....
as i just finished having my car safetied ( and it passed )the mechanic showed me the "dog bones", the 2 upper motor mounts and the bushing in the one is so gone its not even there, and the other one is as loose a s a ....well, you catch the drift.
He said this will take away the jerk when putting into park, and moving from a stop position. thanks AKPsiMC03 for pointing this out.
I wil see afterwards wether this helps the slight hesitation i noticed also, and report my findings back.
thanks for your help guys,
any tips are greatly appreciated.

onecad
11-24-03, 02:28 AM
I finally had a chance to test my car on a long run this weekend.
I came across code p071 when i got home which i looked up and it means: P071 .................................................. .... Intermittent MAP Signal


Any input on that would be great.

Also, in regards to my previous questions in relation to the stumbling.
I found that when driving the car basically at any speed, when i depress LIGHTLY on the gas pedal, ESPECIALLY when going up a hill, this is when the stumbling/chugging happens. It also seems to happen when i take my foot off the gas pedal from time to time also. When I press HEAVILY on the gas there seems to be no problem whatsoever. Not that I can notice anyhow, the car just takes off like a rocket :))

On my way home this evening the traffic was so backed up it took 3 hours just to drive 40 miles. This traffic of course forced a lot of stop and go driving. This also brought to my attention the idling tendacies of the car. By this I mean it would often idle rough, more so when the engine was under load from the compressor running.

Does anyone have any more ideas based on this new information, or have any methods for me to test to help narrow these problems down??
thanks,
joe

mcowden
11-24-03, 12:53 PM
I came across code p071 when i got home which i looked up and it means: P071 ... Intermittent MAP Signal
Check the wiring for the MAP sensor or replace the sensor. A Chilton or Haynes manual will show you where this is, or Alldata DIY has instructions and diagrams (www.alldatadiy.com (http://www.alldatadiy.com)). Replacing the sensor involves removal of the intake manifold, and may be best left to a mechanic depending on your available tools and skills. Don't know the cost of a new sensor, but it's a fairly simple device. The most part of the cost would probably be labor for the remove/reinstall of the intake manifold. Can't really estimate the cost, though. Perhaps someone else knows of a better way to do this or something else that might be wrong? A failing MAP could certainly cause the problems you describe. Have you checked or replaced that PCV valve or looked/listened for leaking vacuum hoses?

onecad
11-24-03, 01:14 PM
I've stuck my head under the hood and have not been able to hear any leaky vaccuum hoses, and no I haven't tried replacing the pcv valve.
I am fairly good mechanically, not the best at diagnosing ignition and fuel system problems though. Most of my vehichles that I ever worked on myself were older, and fairly simple, and therefore easy to diagnose.

Something else I noticed also, is that the problem seems to be predominate when the car has been driven and engine is hotter. I just got back from another test run. When I pulled into the driveway i was sitting there in park. I pushed on the gas pedal to try and maintain a steady idle at around 1500rpm, but the cars system would just raise and drop the rpm + or - 200 rpm. I also could feel the pedal moving under my foot, but maybe that is suppose to happen.

I know people say to change the plug wires after so many km's, and I've checked mine over, the outer casing and the contacts at the coilpack seem to be mint. I can't see the sparkplug contact ends too well cause they are so deep into the casing. Would they not most likely be fine even if they are old with no obviuos defects?
thanks
joe

elwesso
11-24-03, 04:37 PM
NO! plug wires WILL go bad even though they look fine!! You cant expect things to be in MINT condition after 10 years!!!

Id replace the MAP sensor..... I think their around $30-50.. Check on www.gmpartsdirect.com

Might as well replace the PCV..... Its cheap and if it fails you will have the opportunity to get a new engine!!!!

mcowden
11-24-03, 05:48 PM
I've stuck my head under the hood and have not been able to hear any leaky vaccuum hoses, and no I haven't tried replacing the pcv valve... the problem seems to be predominate when the car has been driven and engine is hotter... Would they (spark plug wires) not most likely be fine even if they are old with no obviuos defects?
Well I definitely think the #1 priority is to get the MAP sensor replaced. The cost is not too bad, especially if you can remove/reinstall the intake manifold yourself, and since the PCM indicates an intermittent MAP signal anyway, that seems to be the best place to start.

Once that's done, or at the same time, replace the PCV valve as a precautionary measure. It's about a $4.00 part and takes 2 minutes to replace, probably worth the time and money in my opinion. Check carefully for leaking or disconnected vacuum hoses while you're doing that, and replace the air filter if it's very dirty or old. I've heard before that the vacuum hose connecting to the brake booster fits loosely on some Cadillacs and has been known to slip off. Make sure that one's intact.

That will probably take care of the problem. The symptoms you're describing can definitely indicate a MAP sensor problem.

As for spark plug wires, you can test them with an ohmmeter if you have one. Disconnect one wire at a time from the spark plug and the coil pack and check the resistance of the wire. Measure the length of the wire, or at least come up with a good guess of its length if you can't actually measure it. The resistance should be approximately 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot of wire. It may take some patience and creativity to make contact with the spark plug end of the wire because the contact is all the way at the top of the boot and most leads aren't long enough. Don't pierce the insulator jacket to get at the conductor. If you find a wire that is over about 35,000-50,000 ohms resistance, it is probably in need of replacement. I have heard before that the AC Delco replacement wire sets are much better than Bosch replacement wire sets, but I can neither confirm nor deny that information. I do know that the Delco wire set was about $120 at last check and the Bosch set was about $80. You probably already know this, but be very careful not to get wires mixed up. Disconnect and reconnect them one at a time or label them if you need to, but don't mix them up.

Let us know how you're doing with this one...

onecad
11-25-03, 06:13 PM
today I put a new pvc valve in, and a new gas cap for the heck of it, and a new air filter.
Tomorow I have a new map sensor and new plug wires coming in, hopefully after these are installed my problem will be solved, i'll keep my findings posted.
Can anyone relate the fact that these affects take place when the car is hot, and not so much when it is cold, if its not my map sensor or plug wires?

P.S. i ordered some books..the original gm repair manuals, which are for a 1993 although my car is a 1994, I couldn't find any 1994 manuals.
Should have them tomorrow.
thanks

onecad
11-25-03, 06:16 PM
One more thing....how do I clear my codes????
I want to be able to see if the trouble code clears again.

Afetr it goes through the code diagnostic, it stops at "pcm?", what do i do from here?
thanks
joe

RLLOVETT
11-25-03, 06:57 PM
Cancel the repair manuals if possible and buy the one for your year...if the 93 books are for N* they'll help but if they're for the 4.9 engine...FAI...about $90 from helm.com and worth every penny

onecad
11-25-03, 07:25 PM
well, i got the books early, just a few minutes ago.
There is 2 books, one book deals mostly with the drivetrain, and the other is chassis and body. Both books go into detail on the 4.9l engine and the 4.6l engine. So I guess I was lucky.....:))
The one thing I have found about going into diagnostics is that it tells you how to get in, but not how to navigate around.
So I am still stuck at understanding how to clear my codes.
thanks
joe

mcowden
11-25-03, 07:42 PM
One more thing....how do I clear my codes????
Glad to hear you're making progress, Joe.

To clear the codes, you need to know how to navigate through the system.

FAN SPEED UP button = YES
FAN SPEED DOWN button = NO
OFF button = ESCape

So, with that in mind, to clear the codes, press Yes when you see "PCM?" on the display. You will see "PCM CODES?" next. Press No to see the next item and you will see "PCM CLEAR CODES?" Press Yes to clear them. It will say "PCM CODES CLEAR." To exit the diagnostic mode, press the Mode Up or Mode Down buttons.

After you've driven it for a while, particularly if you experienced the same symptoms again, check the codes and see if they have returned. You have a '94, so I don't know if the computer that year shows when codes are "CURRENT" or "HISTORY." If you do see that, current means that the problem exists right now. History means that it happened before but right now it's OK.

That should get you what you need. I agree that you need the manual for the 1994 model year. The '93 manual won't get you what you need. Let us know how it goes.

onecad
11-25-03, 07:55 PM
i appreciate the description on how to clear codes from the obd display. My search has just found me a bunch of links or the disconnect battery solution. I'd prefer to know how to do it from the seat....lol.
My display does show current and history codes, just so you know.

It will proabaly turn out that I will have to replace every part of the fuel air system before I hit the right answer/solution to my problem. Then find out later it has to do with the ignition control system instead.
This is just my luck...lol

But I still ask, if anyone knows....it is worse when its hot, and its worse when there is load, like going up a hill. If anyone reads this and has any idea please let me know.
thanks again evryone,
joe

RLLOVETT
11-25-03, 10:55 PM
When you get to PCM?, push the fan "up" button for yes until you get to "clear codes" and push yes again...also go to http://www.caddyinfo.com/ and get the info on OBD I and another place to ask questions. My 94 Eldo has 125k and runs great! (knock wood)

elwesso
11-26-03, 03:10 PM
When it goes to PCM, just hit auto (i think) and youll be out of diagnostic mode! Or turn off the ignition!

JJhomer83
11-26-03, 03:19 PM
When it goes to PCM, just hit auto (i think) and youll be out of diagnostic mode! Or turn off the ignition!

Wes you are correct.

onecad
11-26-03, 07:13 PM
ok peeps,
here is the latest update....i picked up my plugs wires and map sensor today.
I just finished putting in my plug wires, then took it for a test drive for a bout 15 minutes.
I believe the problem is solved!....so I'm going to hold off on the map sensor for now until I know for sure. Like I said earlier its worse when the vehichle is hot, and been driven longer, so just in case this is a coicidence, i'll keep the map sensor, and I'll keep you guys posted.
thanks
Joe

onecad
11-28-03, 12:31 PM
I've driven the car now for about 75 kilometers and i don't notice the problem near what it used to be. In fact its like 95% percent gone.
The only thing i notice on occassion is a very quick very short single hiccup, thats only noticeable if you are listening for it. So I'm thinking maybe fuel filter, to try and rid of this. But, the car does have 222,000 km's on it, how can I complain.
thanks to all who helped and gave input

onecad
12-01-03, 02:36 PM
woooohoooo!.......passed the e-test!
The mechanic also mentioned that one or a two cylinders is not firing right still though because there is fuel coming out the tail pipe.
I guess with the previous plugs not working right for such a long time from the previous owners neglect, it screwed up one or 2 of the new plugs he put in the car in january. This being the most likely scenario since the O2 sensor code is not showing.

Just wanted to give an update,
thanks for all your help guys
joe

elwesso
12-01-03, 06:39 PM
Woohoo!!!! :D

teresa
01-05-04, 06:39 PM
Hey Wes aka golden boy. THANKS for the web site with the codes. MOST helpful. Seems my problem is only an AC temp sensor. For those that didn't get it her it is http://209.145.176.7/~090/awh/resources-cad.html

Teresa

powerglide
01-06-04, 04:12 AM
Check the wiring for the MAP sensor or replace the sensor. A Chilton or Haynes manual will show you where this is, or Alldata DIY has instructions and diagrams (www.alldatadiy.com (http://www.alldatadiy.com)). Replacing the sensor involves removal of the intake manifold, and may be best left to a mechanic depending on your available tools and skills. Don't know the cost of a new sensor, but it's a fairly simple device. The most part of the cost would probably be labor for the remove/reinstall of the intake manifold. Can't really estimate the cost, though. Perhaps someone else knows of a better way to do this or something else that might be wrong? A failing MAP could certainly cause the problems you describe. Have you checked or replaced that PCV valve or looked/listened for leaking vacuum hoses?

Hi I have been hearing a high pitched noise that sounds like a vacuum leak (or a bearing running out of lube) I can't tell where its from but around the powersteering pump I think (98 Deville, 72k miles)

My car also idles rough and misfires (P0300 DTC--misfire)
And I haven;t been able to figure out whats wrong.


Are these two problems somehow related!?

Thnaks

Tom

elwesso
01-06-04, 08:47 PM
I dont think the 2 are related, and its not uncommon for ths PS pumps to go out.. not really common, but ive heard of it before....