I've read that you can cut the wire from the brake pedal that allows the TCC to engage. I've looked all over the place under the dash and all I see are wires, wires and more wires. I can't see enough to know what is connected to what so if anyone can give me a hint, I'd appreciate it.

Of course, pulling the ECM fuse accomplishes the same thing but at the expense of the ECM. I'm hoping to pinpoint my problem by JUST disabling the TCC...


Thanks!

So like the idiot I am, I look it up in my GM shop manual. They show a pretty picture of all the wires but don't tell me what color they are...it shows a two wire plug positioned at the lowest point of any plug associated with the brake pedal. I go out, unplug it and drive around. It made a difference, all right! My blinkers are going at half speed. I pull over and plug it back in but my blinkers are still going at half speed. All the lights are working, though.


FRICK! I guess it's the plug ABOVE that, with the brown and pinkish wire. Anyway, what the hell's wrong with my blinkers?

The TCC solenoid gets +12v from the brake pedal switch (you DID read the post I did on this, I posted the link with the whole TCC lockup lineup). So it is easy to do.

So yes, you can disabled it easily at the brake pedal switch. BUT remember, you will destroy your transmission in short order if you do this. The ultra high (numerical low) gearing you have, 2.56's, the converter will be in stall until you get over 70 mph or so, the lockup eliminates this problem. Else it will stall and quickly overheat and drastically shorten the life of the trans. So, do NOT disable TCC unless you stop using OD, unless you enjoy transmission swapping.

The only answer is to install a VERY large transmission cooler and to monitor the transmission temperature at all times.

If you drive it without OD, you can make it live for a while (but you will experience shortened trans life still due to the heat) by not shift into OD until 70 mph. Anything below 70 mph is converter stall (high slippage)

Did you add blinker fluid? It is needs it ever 5 years or so.

...Anyway, what the hell's wrong with my blinkers?

Yeah, I checked the blinker fluid and that was it. I topped it off and they work fine now. Thanks.

I'm gonna find some way to just let my mechanic deal with this all. I probably need a new Torque Converter Clutch, which means a rebuilt tranny. Not sure where I'll get the money for that one, we'll see.

I'm at work so I don't really have time to check the forums: can someone tell me if the TCC will engage even with the ECM pulled? I know there's a hydraulic mechanism associated with the thing so I'm thinking it can still activate. I haven't road tested enough to know if that's the case, though.

Oops, gotta get back to work.

Did you do the normal TCC test as suggested on that Monte Carlo website? Get the car hot, take it up to 55mph, and while it's in suspected lockup, tap and hold the brakes enough to turn the light on. You should feel it shift back out of OD.

Yeah, it works as it's supposed to, when it's supposed to, except at stop signs/lights. I've posted in a few places about my various issues. The solenoid is fine, I've had it replaced and checked. The problem disappears when my ECM fuse is pulled. Don't know if it's an ECM problem or TCC problem.

Is the brakelight switch for the TCC stuck?

I wouldn't think so, as it disengages with light pressure while driving. If it sticks, I'd think it'd do so then, too.

Not the brake lights, the TCC switch. Different switch (although it may be in the same unit), it is a different switch.

If you read that link I sent in the other TCC posts on troubleshooting the TCC, you will find your answer in about 15 seconds with a DVM/DMM.

Is this a 200 4R? What's it doing wrong at stoplights? On my GN, the fluid circuit on the 200 4R will not allow lockup of the torque converter in 1st gear no matter what the solenoid does. It's just not physically possible. I can't imagine it would be different on the Caddy - it's cast into the case. If the car is lugging in 1st gear you have a different problem (TV cable maybe?).

My understanding of the TCC lockup is that it's primarily for fuel economy. I wasn't aware of any longevity issues with not locking it. Yes, the TCC will be slipping more but that's what it does - it slips all the time. When you lug it down with OD it would definitely slip more so maybe that's where the longevity thing comes into play. I rarely let mine lock up unless I'm on the highway.

I rigged up a switch that manually locks the converter (again, only possible in 2nd gear and up). I wired that one up so I can lock the trans to the engine (no slipping of the torque converter) at the track. This is very hard on the trans (don't try this at home kids) but it's a heavy duty rebuild with a big external cooler. So far I only broke it once! It's a real kick in the pants when it locks. I have another switch that unlocks it if the ECM has locked it. It locks at 35 MPH and bogs the motor down which I find annoying. Aaaaannnnyhow, if you rig up a switch to manually lock and unlock the converter you should be able to determine whether it's really locking and unlocking. Once you know what that feels like you can figure out if you might have some other problem.

Just some random thoughts to ponder.

Jim

You can short Pins A and F on the ALDL to lock and unlock the converter anytime the trans allows it (NOT in 1st/2nd) and when brakes are NOT applied.

Quick and dirty method, is to stick a DVM across the contacts in current mode (high current!) 10A mode and you will lock it when you want to. But unlock is still at the mercy of the ECM.

With the GN you have 3.42 gears, so at 45 mph when lockup typically occurs (some earlier, rarely later) you are at 1350 rpm (unlocked), which is within the stall of the converter, so it will see that much torque and stall (watch the tach). The trans will get very hot doing this for very long.

http://cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45000&highlight=TCC+ALDL+DVM

But with 2.56's and 235 70's (std gearing in the 5.0L powered Broughams), the car shifts into 4th around 45 mph, and is at 940 rpm. Stall is around 1600 rpm. It takes the car to get up to 70+ mph to get out of stall!

Remember, a 455 powered Olds 98 got 18 mpg highway with 2.73's, a THM400, no lockup and 5000+ lbs. The 307 should do just fine without OD and no TCC and those 2.56 gears.

You can short Pins A and F on the ALDL to lock and unlock the converter anytime the trans allows it (NOT in 1st/2nd) and when brakes are NOT applied.

Quick and dirty method, is to stick a DVM across the contacts in current mode (high current!) 10A mode and you will lock it when you want to. But unlock is still at the mercy of the ECM.

I wired up a switched ground to terminal F on the ALDL (which is like connecting A and F, since A is a ground). With the F terminal grounded the TCC will lock as soon as the trans shifts to second (when the fluid path allows it). It's not very good for anything to lock it that early. I've never tried hitting the brakes with the manual lock-up switch applied. I'll have to see if the TCC disengages. I lock it up at WOT at 70-80 MPH - it takes about 2/10s off the 1/4-mile ET and adds a couple of MPH.

My unlock switch is wired to the brake switch so I can fool the ECM into thinking I've applied the brakes (thus unlocking the converter).

Jim

It disengages. The TCC solenoid gets +12 from the brake switch via the 1st and 2nd gear switches, then the solenoid, then to the ALDL then to the ECM. So the brakes will always override the TCC operation. Not saying the TCC itself can't get stuck, but the power is removed immediately when you hit the brakes.

If the switch was out of adj or the switch was bad and sticking, it would be a problem. Stick a voltmeter in the Pin F and see what you see. Read that link I posted, I explain it there.

As I said, it unlocks while driving + applying brakes. I can hear and feel it when it locks/unlocks and it takes only minimal brake pedal to disengage the TCC. That leads me to believe that the brake switch is functioning normally.

Turbojimmy: when I come to a stop, the engine lugs down briefly, pulling the front end down ever so slightly. I can anticipate it. It goes away when the AC is on. It goes away with the ECM fuse pulled. (Which, of course, disables the TCC.)

Thanks for all the input, guys. I suspect it is engaging and sticking on until the very last moment, then releasing as I'm about to stop. Take off's are generally fine, no chuggles...but the occasional near-stall. As it's not the solenoid, I suspect it's either a hydraulic problem or an ECM/PROM problem.

It disengages. The TCC solenoid gets +12 from the brake switch via the 1st and 2nd gear switches, then the solenoid, then to the ALDL then to the ECM. So the brakes will always override the TCC operation. Not saying the TCC itself can't get stuck, but the power is removed immediately when you hit the brakes.

I guess it probably does disengage. Never had a reason to try it. I'd have to use both feet, which is not right.

Jim

I have read about the TCC lockup for GN's running down the 1/4 is a blast to do. But hard on the converters. I have a THM200 4R I want to build up for my 80 Turbo T/A when I get the Turbo 301 back with a 400 crank in it (my answer to the 301's weak crank, makes it a 377, look for my tips on it at the Turbo 301 Shrine). The 301 Turbo's responded very well to mods, but was geared with 3.08's and no OD. So it was lacking a lot of capability. I would bet if Chevy wouldn't have put the axe on the 301 Turbo project, the Corvette would have never stood a chance until the LS1 came out. But alas, any GM car that spanks the flagship, dies. GSX, SD455, 301 Turbo, GN/GNX, the list goes on....

As I said, it unlocks while driving + applying brakes. I can hear and feel it when it locks/unlocks and it takes only minimal brake pedal to disengage the TCC. That leads me to believe that the brake switch is functioning normally.

Turbojimmy: when I come to a stop, the engine lugs down briefly, pulling the front end down ever so slightly. I can anticipate it. It goes away when the AC is on. It goes away with the ECM fuse pulled. (Which, of course, disables the TCC.)

Thanks for all the input, guys. I suspect it is engaging and sticking on until the very last moment, then releasing as I'm about to stop. Take off's are generally fine, no chuggles...but the occasional near-stall. As it's not the solenoid, I suspect it's either a hydraulic problem or an ECM/PROM problem.

I'd have to agree. I had a 700-R4 in my 85 Parisienne that had similar lockup problems. It would disengage as soon as I hit the brakes but as soon as I started moving, the lockup would engage, at any speed. Made driving slowly through parking lots and traffic a real pain in the ass. I found the hot wire from the computer to the transmission and put a toggle switch on it.

Brian

Goes away when the AC is on? Is it possible that your idle is just set too low and then when you put the AC on the throttle kickup thing adjusts your idle within spec?

Idle sure doesn't seem too low to me, but what do I know? When I disconnect the ECM, THEN it's too low, for sure. If I set the idle higher, it MAY fix the problem but it'd make shifting from R to D a little clunky.

With my MPG so awful (spectacularly awful, I might add) I tend to think it's either an electrical/electronic problem or the transmission needs a rebuild. After 75,000 it wouldn't surprise me, coz I've been told these trannies weren't very good out of the factory. A rebuild would beef it up and I'd have it slightly modified to accomodate a more powerful engine (someday!).

I need to clean out the EGRs too, I'm sure that'll help with the surging and Check Engine light.

Idle isn't set by the ECM, it is completely non computer controlled on a 307. Q-Jet manages it all the old fashioned way. Although fuel mixture is, and it will idle somewhat lower (maybe 50-100 rpm tops) due to lack of control, but primarily all is Q-Jet managed the old way.

Idle spec on the Olds 307 is like 450-550 rpm in Drive. It does need to be properly set, and will improve off the line performance if it is off (converter stalls better, so you get a little more flash, if idle is higher, the converter is tightening up, so less converter flash).

I would definately clean the EGR, it REALLY matters on a 307. Overall you will see more power, it will run much better.

Is there a throttle kicker on the 307's in the Cads? The "Y" 307's in 1985 didn't, only the VIN code "9" did.

Idle isn't set by the ECM, it is completely non computer controlled on a 307. Q-Jet manages it all the old fashioned way. Although fuel mixture is, and it will idle somewhat lower (maybe 50-100 rpm tops) due to lack of control, but primarily all is Q-Jet managed the old way.

Idle spec on the Olds 307 is like 450-550 rpm in Drive. It does need to be properly set, and will improve off the line performance if it is off (converter stalls better, so you get a little more flash, if idle is higher, the converter is tightening up, so less converter flash).

I would definately clean the EGR, it REALLY matters on a 307. Overall you will see more power, it will run much better.

Is there a throttle kicker on the 307's in the Cads? The "Y" 307's in 1985 didn't, only the VIN code "9" did.

Idle in the 307 when the AC turns on is controlled by a vaccuum actuated arm. When the compressor kicks on, the little arm pokes out. All I'm saying is that maybe his car just idles too low with the AC off and needs an adjustment.

Clean the EGR. It's easy and a new gasket only costs $2-3.

My '87 has a throttle kick down cable to the transmission. I haven't figured out how to adjust it yet, but I definitely need to. I have to be damn near floored to get that thing to drop a gear and go.

Look for trans cable adjust, on the FWD and this forum. I know I have written and some others have posted how, it is very easy and should be done every 6-12 months due to cable stretch. Give it a shot!

It might, but I suspect there is another underlying problem. The ILC (Idle Load Compenstator) adjust can be screwed up pretty good by just messing with it. It will be a little wacko, so don't adjust without the book (FSM for any 307 "Y" car). Basically at idle, the ILC should be pulled back to within a VERY small distance from the throttle lever, and the throttle should be resting on the idle screw. Then any load change, the ILC can easily compensate for. It should NEVER be resting on the ILC at idle. You will always get an unstable idle if that is the case.

I know the 307 "Y" Olds well, mine was sold, but the car is still running with 270K miles on it. Has a 350 now with all 307 stuff, and you can't tell it is a 307 or a 350 until you punch it....

I wanna be able to PUNCH it! =( Found an Olds 403 locally, but I'd have some issues with emissions, I bet. Also found an Olds 350 for $200...

Take the 403, it is rare enough and the heavy Caddy will get no different mileage than the 350. Ok, maybe a little less city, highway just fine.

No, you won't have emissions problems. The 403's did fine, and all bolts on. Take the 307 out, drop in the 403 with the 307 intake and valve covers (paint it all black like stock...) and the ECM will never be the wiser. It will run fine. You need to run the 403 heads, but you CAN run the 307 heads (my choice actually) but the ports are smaller, so top end power will be lost, but low end power will be brutal and fuel economy will be excellent. Compression will be a sweet 9.63:1 and with a 204/214 cam will be a great daily driver and get good economy with the OD trans as long as gearing is kept 3.42 and below. Lower gearing helps power, but hurts the low 5000 rpm range of the 403 (do not push a 403 too high rpm, it is a windowed block and will show you its internals is abused in rpm) Don't believe you ever will find a solid main web (SMW) 403 block, they do NOT exist, despite the rumors that 2500 did once. If they did, they were engineering prototypes. No production blocks were cast SMW.

If you have the tubular steel 307 manifolds, then use the 403 drivers side manifold, and then you will have to find a cast iron pass side manifold with the O2 sensor in the manifold. Else, a bolt in. You will love it, and be able to keep up with the LT1 cars if you swap out the rear end gearing to match the LT1 cars (2.93's for the 94-96 FWBroughams, just bolt in a 90-96 axle)

The 350 is also an excellent choice. 77-up blocks were hollow web, 76 and older SMW. If you aren't racing the hollow webs are fine. The LS1's are hollow webs and do fine. You will probably GAIN fuel economy with the 350, and hold even with the 403 (as per EPA estimates). Keep the computer, it will not have any problems. I know, I did it!!

*Tried posting this in my other thread but there's some kind of error going on right now.*

Ok. Took it to a mechanic. The EGR was totally clean. So the only conclusion I can draw from the Check Engine light/code 53 is that either my alternator is spiking at the same point in my morning commute, a sensor is bad or the ECM is faulty.



Anything else that could cause an intermittent code 53?