: air filter in a 1999 Deville



RRG
08-23-05, 10:01 AM
The air filter housing on my 1999 Deville has a sensor on it . Does that mean that the cars diognostic center will tell me when I should change the air filter ?
If not , how often should it be changed ?
Thanks
RRG

Ranger
08-23-05, 10:41 AM
No, That is the IAT (intake air tempurature) sensor. Unlike the oil life monitor, it will not tell you when to change it.

EcSTSatic
08-23-05, 11:37 AM
Depends on where you live. Dustier areas require changes sooner than others. Hold it to the light and see if any passes through. If it's dark, change it.

zonie77
08-23-05, 02:20 PM
If in doubt change it, possibly a little more performance and gas mileage for a little money.

mcowden
08-23-05, 09:47 PM
The manual says to change it every 30,000 miles in normal service or every 15,000 miles in dusty conditions. If you don't know how long it's been or if you just bought the car and the filter looks dirty, it's not a very expensive item to replace.

I've read before that the various foam or gauze filters don't filter as well as paper filters. Seems feasible to me. There have been lots of arguments here about whether "high flow" air filters such as K & N, Fram Air Hog, Amsoil, etc. really have any benefits, and the general consensus is they don't help anything but the salesperson's retirement fund. There are lots of filters on the market. Probably any paper filter will work just fine.

RRG
08-24-05, 07:30 AM
Thanks Guys
I purchased a new K&N filter , but how do you open the filter housing ????
After y`all stop laughing mayby someone will tell me the trick ....
Thanks
RRG

Eldyfig
08-24-05, 09:22 AM
There should be two clips along the edge. One of the right side and one on the far edge (viewing from the fender side).

Your K&N will be good enough for daily driving. Just think, you don't have to pay for anymore paper filters. It will pay for itself in a bit.

Ranger
08-24-05, 02:16 PM
Based on $6 for a paper filter changed at 30K, the $50 K & N will break even at 250K.

Eldyfig
08-24-05, 03:16 PM
Darn, when you think about it, that is right. Even if you change a paper filter every 15k it would still take 130k to make it up.

EcSTSatic
08-24-05, 03:19 PM
You are assuming of course that there are no other benefits to a foam filter. But we've been down that road before.

mcowden
08-24-05, 03:33 PM
Darn, when you think about it, that is right. Even if you change a paper filter every 15k it would still take 130k to make it up.

Don't forget to add in the cost of the recharge kits plus added wear and tear from allowing extra dirt in the engine... What are the other benefits and performance gains? The sticker?

LT5
08-24-05, 04:01 PM
I've done the K&N thing on many car's. Bottom line is new K&N vs. stock paper filter. No h/p increase on a dyno.

Story is just change the stock filter. The paper filter is cheaper and flow's just as well.

Eldyfig
08-24-05, 04:37 PM
Don't forget to add in the cost of the recharge kits plus added wear and tear from allowing extra dirt in the engine... What are the other benefits and performance gains? The sticker?

Oh, don't worry. I am not contesting anyone on this. If I knew better, 3 years ago, I never would have bought a K&N. I am pro-paper now.

mcowden
08-24-05, 04:44 PM
Oh, don't worry. I am not contesting anyone on this. If I knew better, 3 years ago, I never would have bought a K&N. I am pro-paper now.

No worries at all. I bought an Amsoil filter once. Even proudly displayed the Amsoil filter sticker on top of the air box. I won't make the foam filter mistake again either. Now I run a cheap paper filter and have zero complaints. :thumbsup:

RRG
08-25-05, 03:32 PM
K Guys , I get the message . I will return the K&N filter and get a cheap paper filter . I still cant open the Filter housing .....I think I need a suiside bomber to accomlpish that ....
RRG

mcowden
08-25-05, 04:26 PM
K Guys , I get the message . I will return the K&N filter and get a cheap paper filter . I still cant open the Filter housing .....I think I need a suiside bomber to accomlpish that ....
RRG

If it's anything like mine, the air cleaner housing sits on top of the PCM. If you loosen the hose clamp connecting the air box hose to the MAF, you can swivel the whole assembly and lift the air box off the PCM cover. Disconnect the IAT wire before you lift it too far or you'll rip the wire out. Once you've lifted it up, there are two tabs you have to push in on the top half of the air box. Push the tabs in and separate the two case halves. On the opposite side from the two clip tabs are two hanging tabs. Shift the bottom half laterally away from those two tabs and it will be free. Pull the old filter out of the bottom half and replace it with the new (paper!) filter. Reverse the process to reassemble.

lry99eldo
08-25-05, 07:36 PM
Don't remove the filter lower box if you can avoid it and if you do be sure to get the stud posts and grommets aligned well so you don't roll the grommets. You may even have to notch the filter at the seal rib to fit with out too much pressure on the clamps, you'll see what I mean.
When I got mine at 44K, some heavyhand tech had already messed it all up. I had to do all those things to get it all lined up again. He/she also broke the clamps. I fixed that by removing the assembly, pilot drilling thru the top and bottom, tapping the lower box, opened the hole size on the cover, and now there are 2 screws that hold it in place. Also the wiring to the air temp sensor was all tangled up in that other wiring thats right there too. So I had to get that mess untangled too. I hope that tech made their retirement early on all the time they saved by pulling and breaking everything in sight to get done early that day!
lry99eldo

RRG
08-28-05, 06:47 PM
tHANKS gUYS , AND mCOWDEN , THE FILTER IS DONE (PAPER) .nOW i NEED TO CHANGETHE PLUGS . i CAN SEE THE FRONT 4 , hOW DO i GET TO THE BACK 4 ????
rrg

danbuc
08-28-05, 07:14 PM
To get to the back plugs, just disconnect the foor electrical connections to the Coil packs. The remove the entire coil pack/module assembly. This will allow you access to the four plugs in the rear. As far as getting a socket in there, I would suggest using a 12" extension. Attach the spark plug socket to the extension, and get it seated on the plug. Then attach the socket wrench to the extension. This is a little easier that trying to get the extension down there, while still attached to the wrench, which can be quite annoying. After you have completely loosened the plug, remove the socket from thr extension, which will give you more room to pull the plug out.

mcowden
08-28-05, 07:31 PM
tHANKS gUYS , AND mCOWDEN , THE FILTER IS DONE (PAPER) .nOW i NEED TO CHANGETHE PLUGS . i CAN SEE THE FRONT 4 , hOW DO i GET TO THE BACK 4 ????
rrg

Danbuc's instructions are good for changing the plugs. You should be changing them with AC-Delco 41-950 plugs at 0.050" gap. Are you changing plugs for a reason or just for good measure? How many miles on the car?

RRG
08-29-05, 06:03 AM
Hi Mcowden
The car has 91000 miles on it and it works perfect .It gets 30 miles to the gallon ,highway driving (Canadian gallon) . I heard that if you wait to long they (plugs) might be hard to get out .
RRG

RRG
08-29-05, 06:27 AM
Thanks Mcowden

The car has 91000 miles , and works perfect . It gets 30 highway miles per gallon (Canadian gallon ) .I was told that if you wait to long the plugs may be hard to get out .
RRG

mcowden
08-29-05, 10:11 AM
Hi Mcowden
The car has 91000 miles on it and it works perfect .It gets 30 miles to the gallon ,highway driving (Canadian gallon) . I heard that if you wait to long they (plugs) might be hard to get out .
RRG

At 91k miles, you're close to being due for plugs and wires, but if there aren't any symptoms, you can easily wait. I think the recommendation is 100k for plugs and not sure about wires. I have also heard that the plugs can be difficult to remove if they're left in a long time, but I have never heard that it was a big problem to remove them. Maybe someone else has other opinions about this. Another 9k miles won't hurt anything, and I think that problem is relatively rare anyway.

Whatever you decide to do, the plugs that were tested and proven on your engine are AC-Delco model 41-950 plugs (about $6 each) and the wire set is AC-Delco model 748Q at about $97. The best prices that have been reported here are from either www.rockauto.com or www.gmpartsdirect.com. For about $160 delivered, you can replace plugs and wires with the ones the engineers designed for your engine. I think it's worth the added cost. Others may disagree.

When you go to do the rear 4 plugs, you may find it easier to unbolt the coil pack and shift it out of the way. Plan out the wires appropriately by length and route them carefully, using the looms and clips where provided to keep the wires away from other wiring. A 12" extension will get to the plugs just fine. Be very careful not to cross-thread them or you could have a big problem on your hands. Lots of people here, myself included, have done this work successfully, so feel free to ask if you run into a problem or question and you will probably get great advice.

Let us know what you do and how it turns out. Good luck!

RRG
08-30-05, 07:08 AM
Thanks Mike
I will buy the wires and plugs you have recommended .
RRG

chris.gogreen
09-25-11, 11:59 AM
Even after I remove the clips on my 99 deville the filter wont come out, any other tricks? I'm new here and hope to contribute regularly, I'm about to do the first oil change since I got it.