View Full Version : Which Oil Filters do you use? SdMarineGuy 08-20-05, 09:49 PM Which filter do you guys use when you change your oil? For the 3.6L I know they only offer STP and FRAM. The AutoZone guy told me the OEM Filters where better. any inputs? I am surprised they dont make a Mobil filter for our cars. SuperCrew 08-20-05, 10:12 PM I use the OEM filter. Costs a little more from the dealer, but I think it's worth it. Not too fond of Fram at all, I heard alot of talk about how cheaply made the Fram is. I think there are some web articles about ti, but I felt it best to stay away from them for sure. I'm not too familiar with the STP filters. SdMarineGuy 08-20-05, 10:24 PM ow much do you pay for the OEM filters? I might just order some from GmPartsDirect for future use. My oil life is at 28% and I only ran my car for 3500 miles. ow much do you pay for the OEM filters? I might just order some from GmPartsDirect for future use. My oil life is at 28% and I only ran my car for 3500 miles.
I am over 6000 miles and I still have 54% left. Mobil 1 should be good for atleast 7500 milesor more so its strange that at 3500 you are 28%. Maybe its your heavy foot? SdMarineGuy 08-20-05, 10:45 PM I am over 6000 miles and I still have 54% left. Mobil 1 should be good for atleast 7500 milesor more so its strange that at 3500 you are 28%. Maybe its your heavy foot?
It is pretty heavy on the city I average 12/mpg Devil_concours 08-21-05, 12:00 AM It is pretty heavy on the city I average 12/mpg
i'm in heavy traffic in the city (i live in metro dc area) and my oil usually doesn't hit 20% before 7500mi pjohnesq 08-21-05, 12:35 AM My oil life is at 28% and I only ran my car for 3500 miles.
SD, Oil life seems kinda low for 3500 miles. at 3500 you should be at about 40-50% RobertCTS 08-21-05, 06:36 AM I've always used the Fram products. Anyone that has the TonyA mod has the Fram AirHog in it. You would think the cartridge would be cheaper than the canister type but not so.
The Fram part number is CH8765. Cost about $10. AutoZone has them. Ilyesha 08-21-05, 08:59 AM I get the Fram filters here in VA for $4 from Autozone. Devil_concours 08-21-05, 09:07 AM I've always used the Fram products. Anyone that has the TonyA mod has the Fram AirHog in it. You would think the cartridge would be cheaper than the canister type but not so.
The Fram part number is CH8765. Cost about $10. AutoZone has them.
i've seen numerous comments about fram oil filters. Some people even had them cut (not for our car) and found out that construction is crappy, and it wasn't really filtering efficiently. RobertCTS 08-21-05, 09:16 AM i've seen numerous comments about fram oil filters. Some people even had them cut (not for our car) and found out that construction is crappy, and it wasn't really filtering efficiently.
Give us a link. I'd like to see proof.:yup:
For more than you wanted to know. Purolator looks like a good choice.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Here's the Purolator $4.98
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=PUR&mfrpartnumber=L25274&parttype=1&ptset=A RobertCTS 08-21-05, 09:18 AM I get the Fram filters here in VA for $4 from Autozone.
Same part number?:hmm: That's like 1/2 the price. I tried to check but their system is down. BozzMan 08-21-05, 09:32 AM I use Purolator, mostly because it's what was available when I went and bought 3 or 4 of them. On a filter with the "canless" design like the CTS has, it's pretty much guarnteeed that the construction can't be crappy. Either the pastic end caps are bonder to the filter or they are not. Filters that are in "can" are a different story as assembly is more critical. Then you have the filter material itself and the only way to tell if it's a good material is to perform particle efficeincy testing. Devil_concours 08-21-05, 09:39 AM Give us a link. I'd like to see proof.:yup:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/ph00ny/purepp-b.jpeg
http://premium1.uploadit.org/ph00ny/frameg-b.jpeg
Purolator Premium Plus (Top Photo)
Cost $2.99 -- Meijer
ADBV material: nitrile
Spring type: leaf
Baseplate hole area: 0.440 sq/in
Filter area: 345 sq/in; 64 pleats
Center tube hole area: 1.46 sq/in
Total Weight: 425 grams
Filter and endcaps weight: 4 oz
Average largest pore size: 57 µm
Smallest pore size: 22 µm
30W 70F Oil flow @ 10psi: 17.2 oz per minute
Fram Extra Guard (Bottom Photo)
Cost $2.99 -- Advanced Auto
ADBV material: Nitrile
Spring type: leaf
Baseplate hole area: 0.227 sq/in
Filter area: 183 sq/in; 36 pleats
Center tube hole area: 1.26 sq/in
Total Weight: 400 grams
Filter and endcaps weight: 2.5 oz
Average largest pore size: 50 µm
Smallest pore size: 17 µm
30W 70F Oil flow @ 10psi: 4.5 oz per minute BozzMan 08-21-05, 09:50 AM The purolator has more pleats. Are these filters for the same application? Flow is important but filtering efficeincy is very important and there is no mention of it. Pore size suggests that the Fram would be more efficeint at filtering smaller particles. Pore size is a trade off with flow. Flow and efficeincy usually are inverse of each other. (to a point) Increased surface area (# of pleats) also provides increased flow. Believe me, all of the manufaturers perform these tests before releasing a design for production. Another problem is that aftermarket filters are designed for numerous applications. RobertCTS 08-21-05, 09:54 AM Cost $2.99 -- Advanced Auto
ADBV material: Nitrile
Spring type: leaf
Baseplate hole area: 0.227 sq/in
Filter area: 183 sq/in; 36 pleats
Center tube hole area: 1.26 sq/in
Total Weight: 400 grams
Filter and endcaps weight: 2.5 oz
Average largest pore size: 50 µm
Smallest pore size: 17 µm
30W 70F Oil flow @ 10psi: 4.5 oz per minute
Maybe $4.98 at AdvanceAutoParts?:hmm:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=PUR&mfrpartnumber=L25274&parttype=1&ptset=A Devil_concours 08-21-05, 09:56 AM Maybe $4.98 at AdvanceAutoParts?:hmm:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=PUR&mfrpartnumber=L25274&parttype=1&ptset=A
It seems like fram's high end filters better but the bottom 2 line should be avoided. Those figures aren't for our cars but frams are known crappy constrution and just wanted to let you guys know before you go to the auto store and grab the cheapest filter. BozzMan 08-21-05, 10:03 AM It seems like fram's high end filters are better but the bottom 2 lines should be avoided. Those figures aren't for our cars but frams are known crappy constrution and just wanted to let you guys know before you go to the auto store and grab the cheapest filter.
I agree. I'd go with the purolator. RobertCTS 08-21-05, 10:09 AM I agree. I'd go with the purolator.
I'm being swayed Bozzman.:) You have to watch as there are several levels available. Like economy and best.:hmm: BozzMan 08-21-05, 10:13 AM With the canless design, it's much easier to see what you are getting. just open the boxes and compare them. count the pleats, look at the depth of the pleats. more filtering material is better. you'll have to take a flyer on pore size though. Devil_concours 08-21-05, 10:14 AM With the canless design, it's much easier to see what you are getting. just open the boxes and compare them. count the pleats, look at the depth of the pleats. more filtering material is better. you'll have to take a flyer on pore size though.
what about flow rate? Isn't good oil filter = balance of good filtering and good flow rate? BozzMan 08-21-05, 10:20 AM what about flow rate? Isn't good oil filter = balance of good filtering and good flow rate?
yep, and in the data you posted on the two filters, the huge increase in flow rate (and surface area) made up for the small difference in average pore sizes. (in my opinion) There is nothing at all that says that aftermarket filters meet any sort of spec at all. Period. They could put toilet paper in the can and sell it and there is nothing to stop them. The OEM does not provide filter "specs" to the aftermarket. It would be pointless anyway. The aftermarket would make the cheapest filter they could anyway weather it meets the OEM specs or not. Claims to "meet OEM specs" are completely hollow and are just window dressing on the container to get you to buy the filter. The after-maketers reverse engineer the filter according to size and thread type and such and make what they want. They rarely , if ever, even test the filter on the specific engine and if they do, it is just a screw it on and drive it around the block type of thing to see if it leaks. If you think about it, the only way the aftermarket competes at all with the OEM parts is on the basis of cost. If the aftermarket parts cost more very few people would consider them. So they have to be cheaper. So they skimp on the parts, the design, the material, the testing, the validation, etc..... Just common sense tells you that.
This is all I would ever use. I paid less than $5 at an AC Delco parts store.
http://www.synthetic-oil.com/images/PF2129_3.JPG BozzMan 08-21-05, 12:15 PM yeah, the OEM never trades off performance for cost ... NOT! |