: best oil for the 96 northstar 133000 miles



Guyz1996deville
08-18-05, 01:30 PM
what would be the best oil. I was thinking of going to the valvoline dura blend but wanted to get some suggestions.

Frost
08-18-05, 01:33 PM
I swear by the synthetics they have out, now. I use MOBIL 1 10W30 synthetic oil and their tranny fluid.

mikes93sedandeville
08-18-05, 06:54 PM
Synthetic is hands down the best oil anywhere. If you just purchased this car then make absolute sure it has no leaks as synthetic oil has very small molecules and seeps through any leak very easily. I have an 89 Ford Probe GT has had Castrol Syntec since day 1(previous owner had good taste) and it currenty has 202k miles and the inside of the engine is immaculate. Unfortunately my front seal has started leaking and the synthetic pours out however regular oil barely leaks a drop so the car is sitting until the seal comes in. If it has leaks or you arent sure the high mileage oils are excellent. We use that in our 93 sedandeville and we have seen better gas mileage no oil leaks or burnoff. I use pennzoil 10w30 high maileage and now i swear by it on cars with over 75k that i havent used synthetic on.

JimD
08-18-05, 08:46 PM
starbur
what would be the best oil. I was thinking of going to the valvoline dura blend but wanted to get some suggestions.

Spend the (extra) money on synthetic oil or synthetic blend oil if you really want to do that for whatever reason you can rationalize. But there will be no measureable benefit to you as a result.

Today's API rated SL oil (any brand) will meet / exceed what your engine requires for lubrication. Look for the "Starburst" symbol on the oil container.

FWIW: Oils that claim API SL rating are synthetic blends by necessity.

One hundred forty three thousand miles and counting......

EcSTSatic
08-18-05, 08:54 PM
Not again http://cadillacforums.com/forums/images/smilies/banghead3.gif Search!

Ranger
08-18-05, 09:29 PM
what would be the best oil. I was thinking of going to the valvoline dura blend but wanted to get some suggestions.
:hide:

peteski
08-20-05, 12:25 PM
Some will agree with me, some will disagree (as always in such heatly contested subject). I recommend any motor oil which meets the weight and certifications specs in your Owners Manual. If it asks for SE 10W30, then use that (or whatever it states).

You can buy synth. oil but to me they are just a waste of money (and you still have to change it every few thousand miles).

And yes, I change my 93 Caddy's oil when it tells me to (the Oil Life Monitor).

Stay away from products with miracle claims - SNAKE OIL IS ONLY FOR THE GULLIBLE PEOPLE WITH TOO MUCH MONEY ON THEIR HANDS.

That is my view and I'm sticking to it!

Peteski

addison_ii
08-20-05, 12:51 PM
You could also try 15w40 Rotella /Delo/Delvac Oil

zonie77
08-21-05, 12:25 PM
If you don't have oil pressure problems from engine wear use the lightest oil spec'd for the vehicle. Fast pumpup from cold start is more important than anything else. The loads on a car, not towing, with an automatic trans are easily handled by 10w-30 or 5w-30.

Kcryan
08-22-05, 12:54 AM
Mobil one- xW-30, or if your a real man, Truck and Suv 5-40, cleans great

German Castrol 0w-30 (google it or look on BITOG)

Kimura-sensei
08-25-05, 02:47 AM
I concur, I don't see any real benefit from synthetic motor oil. Been using Mobil1 10w30 in my 99 deville for almost 1 yr. Only 2 true differences I see is a slight increase in MPG, like 0.5 to 1.0 mpg, on highway (no difference for city), and the car warms up a heck lot faster in winter time as if it was 40 degrees outside when it was really -20 to 0 degrees F. Not worth the price difference.

However, I do give props to Mobil1 synthetic ATF fluid. My gears shift a hell lot better with mobil1 vs. regular ATF.

STS 310
08-25-05, 09:15 PM
Man, has there ever been conclusive evidence on THIS board to suggest synthetics?

This engine has been torn down at over 100k and looked new using 10 30W. and looked like new!!

What ever floats your boat.

zonie77
08-25-05, 11:04 PM
The missing expert said don't waste your money on syn. I agree with him. Change it a little early and all is good with a quality dino.

inconnu
08-25-05, 11:10 PM
Oil debate,where is Bbob when we need him :stirpot:

inconnu
08-25-05, 11:11 PM
i wrote B b o b and it changed to Sal collaziano !!!!! Weird man :cookoo:

DFC123
08-26-05, 12:09 AM
I just changed the standard non synth oil with Valvoline Synpower full synthetic oil. I noticed the engine ran quieter. I also recently had to have the oil pan replaced so all those gaskets were new. I would say that a oil for high mileage couldn't hurt .
I had googled for motor oil ratings and found www.themotoroilsite.com the motor oil bible has an appendix with tech specs.

mcowden
08-26-05, 11:52 AM
I just changed the standard non synth oil with Valvoline Synpower full synthetic oil. I noticed the engine ran quieter. I also recently had to have the oil pan replaced so all those gaskets were new. I would say that a oil for high mileage couldn't hurt .
I had googled for motor oil ratings and found www.themotoroilsite.com the motor oil bible has an appendix with tech specs.

The motor oil site you mentioned is operated by an Amsoil dealer named Michael Kaufman, so everything is going to slant toward them, no matter how religious or well-intentioned the guy is. If you say on that forum that Amsoil is not the best liquid on the face of the earth, you will probably get booted from the site or your posts will be edited by him. One user recently had his name changed on the forum because Kaufman didn't like it. You can judge how objective the site is pretty clearly from just that one action. He's probably a decent guy, but he has an agenda and a strong bias that's pretty obvious. He didn't put up the site to save you money or save your engine. He put up the site to drive traffic to his Amsoil store and make money, and maybe also to make himself feel better or achieve salvation by offering religious propaganda.

So far nobody has been able to tell us what is in those high mileage oils that supposedly helps them slow oil leaks. Speculation said it was brake fluid because that will swell rubber seals, but that's highly unlikely. Either way, plain old conventional 10W-30 is what was tested in the Northstars and is recommended in the manual. Any deviation from that was never tested. Cadillac requires synthetic in the newer Northstars that have VVT, but they have never changed the specification for the rest of them, no matter how many miles are on your car.

Zonie and JimD, in their posts above, offer good advice. Put whatever you want in your engine, but as far as I can tell from the available facts, there is very little benefit to synthetics and, in my opinion at least, it's just not worth the significant extra cost. How much of what you hear about synthetics is fact, and how much is speculation, marketing, obfuscation, and shady science? Are synthetics technically superior to conventional oils? Yes, without a doubt. Will it save your engine or your pocketbook? I don't think so. I have never seen any proven facts that said synthetics will save you any money or trouble in a Northstar that doesn't require it. Have you? How many people have you heard complain that they had engine failure due to oil problems? Quart of conventional oil: $1.29. Quart of Amsoil synthetic: $6.15. You do the math.

If you want to do your engine and your pocketbook a favor, get an excellent filter (AC-Delco, Purolator PureONE, Mobil1, etc.) and use a high quality conventional motor oil suited to the climate where you primarily drive you car (for most, 10W-30), and change it when the OLM says to change it or slightly before. Put the money you save in your retirement account, your kid's college fund, or donate it to the worthy charity of your choice. That's just my opinion, and I'm open to other rational, factual arguments.

zonie77
08-26-05, 07:05 PM
Great post Mr. Cowden! :worship:

erroneous
08-28-05, 01:20 PM
If you don't have oil pressure problems from engine wear use the lightest oil spec'd for the vehicle. Fast pumpup from cold start is more important than anything else. The loads on a car, not towing, with an automatic trans are easily handled by 10w-30 or 5w-30.


What kind of oil pressure problems? Like the oil light flickering on and off at idle, while in gear, at hot ambient temperatures? :bonkers: