: Car keeps overheating



Shun.the.girl
04-06-14, 10:14 AM
Ok so I changed the water pump, I had to get a new purge line from the junk yard cause mine had a small hole in it. I put it on and the car ran fine for a while then it would start to creep over to the red. There was a small leak at the top of the radiator that I sealed with a sealer mix... After do all this the car still runs hot but not to the red part just above it and sometimes it will start heading toward the middle but not all the way. Also it wouldn't start after I cut the car off cause it said service fuel system..I googled that message and it said it could be the fuel pump or gas cap. So after it didn't start and having it towed home the car started. I'm not sure what to do at this point and I don't know how to tell if my radiator is bad.

Ranger
04-06-14, 10:50 AM
Why did you change the WP. Was it leaking?

Do a block test to check for HG failure. Borrow the kit from AutoZone and just pay for the test fluid. Do this BEFORE you put anymore time, effort or money into it.

Shun.the.girl
04-06-14, 11:16 AM
I changed it cause it was making a noise. But I will get the block test and see how that goes. But how can I tell if the radiator is bad?

vincentm
04-06-14, 11:25 AM
I changed it cause it was making a noise. But I will get the block test and see how that goes. But how can I tell if the radiator is bad?

That was most likely the tensioner and pulley for the water pump, not the pump itself

Submariner409
04-06-14, 11:25 AM
The only true way to tell if a radiator is "bad" is to remove it from the vehicle and have a radiator shop do a flow test. Even for us, in-car radiator testing is difficult because the A/C condenser covers the entire front of the radiator, so even a feely guess as to temperature change across the radiator is difficult. You CAN do some temperature checks with an IR thermometer gun from Radio Shack or a NAPA, but you need an assistant and time. Also, remember that the cooling fans run in SLOW all the time when any A/C function is set in the HVAC - any time the compressor runs, fans run, so that makes things more difficult. Turn the HVAC system OFF and fans go to SLOW at 224 degrees, FAST at 236. The engine should cool to 213, fans shut off and the cycle repeats.

Study the sticky posts just above this - the ones on cooling system, gauge, fan operation and Northstar head gasket diagnosis.

Your leaky radiator sealant fix is temporary - count on it.

vincentm
04-06-14, 11:26 AM
Ok so I changed the water pump, I had to get a new purge line from the junk yard cause mine had a small hole in it. I put it on and the car ran fine for a while then it would start to creep over to the red. There was a small leak at the top of the radiator that I sealed with a sealer mix... After do all this the car still runs hot but not to the red part just above it and sometimes it will start heading toward the middle but not all the way. Also it wouldn't start after I cut the car off cause it said service fuel system..I googled that message and it said it could be the fuel pump or gas cap. So after it didn't start and having it towed home the car started. I'm not sure what to do at this point and I don't know how to tell if my radiator is bad.

Never use a liquid fix on these Cadillacs, you'll just gum it up. These arent a typical V8 engine..

Shun.the.girl
04-06-14, 12:55 PM
Ok thanks... I was thinking it's clogged because I remember my dad said to put pepper in the water to clog the leak. It worked but as I needed water I would at pepper as well so I'm thinking that the pepper has clog the system. I had to bypass my heater core cause it started smoking in the inside. But I will do a block test and take the radiator to the shop.

Ranger
04-06-14, 08:57 PM
Pepper is an OLD trick to cover up a leak and fool perspective buyers, somewhat akin to putting sawdust or banana peels in the differential to quiet it down. Barsleaks sealant tabs would do a better job, but most here do no recommend them.

Shun.the.girl
04-06-14, 09:10 PM
Pepper is an OLD trick to cover up a leak and fool perspective buyers, somewhat akin to putting sawdust or banana peels in the differential to quiet it down. Barsleaks sealant tabs would do a better job, but most here do no recommend them.

So do you think the pepper have the radiator clogged?

Ranger
04-06-14, 09:25 PM
:noidea: I suppose it's possible, depending on how much you put in.

rodnok01
04-06-14, 10:56 PM
I have a question... How do you get the pepper grinder over the opening and how coarse did you grind?

97EldoCoupe
04-07-14, 12:19 AM
Take it from guys who have experienced everything you're going through. That block test as Ranger said will potentially save you money and a lot of head scratching. If exhaust gasses are present in the cooling system your head gaskets and/or head bolts are no longer doing the job they were designed to do. At that point it is time for a mechanical fix, not a liquid fix of any kind.

The biggest reason that liquid fixes are useless is because most often, one or more of the head bolts let go (thus releasing the clamping pressure on the head gasket). There is nothing in this world that comes in liquid form that will take the place of a working, torqued head bolt. Not bars leaks, not pepper, or soap flakes, not therma-stuff or heal-a-whatever.

I wish I could give you advice that would be cheap and easy but that's giving false hope. Block test. Let us know the outcome and then we will try to help pinpoint your overheating problems from there. We'll help you as best as we can.

Welcome- and if you have some time please post a pic of the beauty you're working on.