08-14-05, 02:29 PM
Hi, Im trying to compose a comprehensive guide to N* water pump replacement. There are some great threads about this out there, but none seem to address all the issues in one place.
Please help me with a list of usefull tools and items to have and parts to replace with new.
1. New water pump/ impeller
2. Specialty tool to remove and install pump
3. Gasket sealer
4. New Upper and Lower radiator hoses
5. New WP Drive belt
6. New heater hoses: Heater to pipe 1, heater to pipe 2, and tee to reservoir
Anything im missing? a detailed set of procedure instructions would be paramount in this, so any help there would be great. Thanks!
08-14-05, 03:20 PM
I don't have a instruction list, but after you do it consider writing it up and putting it in the tech tips.
08-14-05, 03:21 PM
Good call. Question for those who have done it: '96 SLS: how do you drain the coolant from the lower hose without getting coolant all over everything???
08-14-05, 03:37 PM
Drain the radiator using the drain valve.
08-14-05, 04:10 PM
I posted these instructions on my site. They are actually for a 2001 STS but are pretty much universal. The drawings are for identification of locations and parts and do not necessarily follow the numbered instructions.
08-14-05, 05:54 PM
Where will i find the Drain Valve on the radiator?? thanks
08-14-05, 06:46 PM
Found, drivers side, bottom of radiator, below lower coolant hose and trans hose... NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE to get to and/ or turn... any tips?? About to pull lower rad. hose and call it good.
08-14-05, 07:18 PM
We just pull the hose, but it depends on where you are working (hate a mess like that in the garage). It does make a mess, even with pans to try to catch it.
When I did my daughters '99 I took a piece of dowl rod (3/4" or 1", I can't recall) and simply cut a slot in the end of it. That worked very nicely as a tool to reach up and engage the drain plug to loosen and retighten.
All you need to do is remove the intake ducting, then remove the drive belt shield. Use a 1/4" drive breaker bar or ratchet to move the tensioner and remove the drive belt. Remove the front cover, then use the special socket to remove the impeller. Remember it is a cam lock, not threaded so it only takes about 1/8 - 1/4 turn to remove and install. Clockwise to remove and counter clockwise to install. Here is a picture of a water pump socket I made. http://www.geocities.com/grandolfo. You can buy cheap stamped steel ones for $15 - $20. I have heard some say that they slip. A good Snap-on will run about $75 but it is machined and much beefier much like the one I made. I have not had to replace mine yet. I am sure that is because I took the time to make the socket, but I have heard others say to be sure to lube the "O" ring seal before instalation.
08-16-05, 09:27 PM
how did you make your tool? Where can you get the cheap sockets? With gas prices and me driving 50 miles of back roads a day i don't have any extra money(gas prices and all).
I turned the drain plug with my hands with the hose in place. I just pushed it with my thumb and then my pointer finger.
I made the tool on a bench lathe I have. I actually cut the teeth on a power hack saw by hand as I did not have a dove tail cutter for my mill. Then used a 1/2" drive socket cut down and welded to the back for the drive.
The link below has a cheap one. You can see the difference even in this picture. http://thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW161.html
08-16-05, 11:21 PM
i got my tool at autozone, gave them $30 for their brand new loaner specialty tool. seems mighty beefy to me, and didnt dream of slipping.