does anyone know how hard it is to place a a/c compresser in a 97 catera?
it looks like you have to put the pump out from the bottom

gatekeepr70, wondering if you every got any response on this? Garage just told me that my compressor was shot and he didn't want to fix it. What a shocker someone not wanting to work on a Catera. So I am thinking of tackling it myself, I am pretty advanced mechanically, changed out motor and trans in a couple of cars. But I haven't tried to much on the Catera. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!!

From my 1998 shop manual;

1) Recover refrigerant (it's a no-no to release refridgerants to the atmosphere)
2) disconnect the battery negative connection from battery.
3) remove the compressor hose bolt through the top of the compressor using a long extension and swivel socket.
4) remove the intake air resonator.
5) raise and suitably support the car.
6) remove the compressor hose o-rings.
7) remove the compressor hose to air pipe bracket bolt.
8) remove the compressor hose to oil pan bolt.
9) remove the drive belt.
10) remove the three front compressor mounting bolts.
11) remove the two rear compressor mounting bolts.
12) disconnect the compressor electrical connection
13) lower the car
14) remove the compressor through the top of the engine compartment.
Drain oil from compressor and measure volume. You'll have to replace with fresh PAG refridgeration oil when the o/h'd or new compressor is installed, before charging with refridgerant
To install;
reverse procedure, torque front comp' mounting bolts to 30 ft-lb.
hose to oil pan bolt to 71 in-lb.,hose clamp to air pipe bracket to 71 in-lb.,
use new o-rings on hoses. tighten comp' hose bolt to 24 ft-lb.
Evacuate all air from system down to less than 300 microns. recharge with 2lbs-9oz of R134a.
There! that's not so hard is it? It is vitally important to the system that a proper vacuum is pulled on the whole refrigerant loop. And air left in the system will cause trouble! Moisture in the air will freeze at the expansion capilliary tubes and block the flow of refridgerant. Or you''ll get surging from "non-condensable" gasses intrained in the system.The pressure readings of your gauge set will be off, and you'll loose cooling capacity. Too much oil in the system will cause 'flooding' in the evaporator and reduce your heat transfer. Basically if you can replace the compressor and then have the garage recharge the a/c, you'll be better off. Unless you're an R&AC mechanic/technician with the proper tools/equipment. In which case you wouldn't be asking - eh?
Enough said. good luck. If you're in need of some part location drawing from the manual I can scan them for you.

Jerry O

Here (http://www.south-n-auto.com/ac.pdf) is the same stuff Jerry posted but with pics. I love pics ;) Let me know if you need more info on procedures refered to.

Cool!! Now I'm gonna go soak my typing inflamed fingers/wrist in cold water some more.:rolleyes:

JerryO

Thank you very much for your help. This forum is awesome and everyone is always willing to help with whatever they can. THANK YOU!!!!

For what it's worth, I removed my comp through the bottom.

Had to twist it a bit but wasn't bad at all.