: 97 Deville Blower Motor Replacement



PMPDVL
07-22-05, 02:12 PM
ANYONE KNOW THE EASIEST WAY OF REPLACING THIS?:hmm:

THANKS

Ranger
07-22-05, 10:21 PM
There is no easy way. Remove the rear plug wires. Remove the ICM and set off out of the way. FYI, there are two hidden mounting bolts on the back of the ICM that require the Braille method to remove (don't drop 'em. They will fall into the cradle and are damn near impossible to find. Don't ask) Unclip the EVAP solenoid from the rear cam cover and move it out of the way. Open the hold down clip on the loom running along the rear cam cover. Once you have everything cleared out of the way, unplug the blower motor. Now remove the three bolts in the center of it. that will allow you to remove the inertial plate. That is the large black disc in the center. Once that is out, the armature will come out and then the 5 bolts around the perimeter (some of which need to be done by the Braille method with a 1/4" drive socket. That's the easy part. The new one has been redesigned and has to go in in one piece. You'll notice, it won't fit. There is not enough clearance between the rear cam cover and the firewall. Remove both torque struts (dog bones) and replace the left one (longer of the two) with a small (7") turnbuckle. Tighten up on the turn buckle and you should be able to rock the engine forward about an inch or so. That will give you just enough clearance to get it in but do not expect it to go without a fight. Now fight with that snake of a wire loom and pull it up enough so that you can get the blower somewhat into position with the loom behind the back end of the blower motor so as not to be in the way. Now wiggle, push, turn and curse the blower motor till it pops into place. You will need to use a little force and the cage as well as the housing will give a little so that is not a problem. Once it pops into place let out a loud YYYES. Once again use the Braille method to replace the lower of the three mounting bolts. Yes I said three. The new motor as I said is redesigned and only uses three. Don't forget to put the heat shield in place first or you'll have to take it apart and do it all over again. Don't ask me how I know. Now simply put everything back in place, remove the turnbuckle and replace the torque struts, wipe up the blood and finally clean and bandage your wounds. Now sit down and :alchi:
The first time took me about 3 hrs. I did not rock the engine forward. I used a pry bar and forced it in place on the advice of a Cadillac mechanic. Big mistake. I obviously cracked the cage. It lasted 7 months and exploded about 2-3 weeks ago. I got it warrantied and this time I knocked it out in about half the time or better.
Good luck.

PMPDVL
07-27-05, 10:01 AM
THANKS FOR THE INFO...I ENDED UP GETTING A USED ONE FOR HALF THE PRICE WITH THE SAME WARRANTY. IT WAS STILL THE OLD STYLE SO CLEARANCE WASN'T AN ISSUE....IT ONLY TOOK ABOUT A HALF HOUR AND I WAS GOLDEN AGAIN!:cheers:

Snyder81
11-20-05, 04:13 AM
I just ran across this post tonight after a 6 hour losing battle this afternoon. I'm going to try some of this tomorrow.


There was no way I could get the clearance I needed to get the new blower motor in. I got to the point where I dremel'd some of the metal housing below the "cut here for service" for the condenser so I could fish my arm through and be able to use my hand behind the new blower motor. The reason for this was because I attempted to install the new blower motor in two pieces - first I unscrewed the nut that holds the white circular fin on the new motor and then I slid the white fin off. My plan was to put that fin in first, then put the motor portion in, slide the fin back on (which worked after some struggling!) and THEN reach in behind with my hand and attempt to screw the nut on to secure the white fin. That did not work and I all I have to show for it is several hours of wasted time and a bruised arm.

Snyder81
11-26-05, 05:32 AM
I'm happy to report that I purchased the Thexton GM Engine moving tool for ~$38 shipped from http://www.everhartsales.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=22456 and it worked great. The whole repair only took about 90 minutes and now I finally have AC and heat in my car again(My wife thanks you!). Spend the $38 on this tool - it's a HUGE timesaver and will make the job easy the first time.

Edit: The tool instructions say to use the special attachment for 96 and newer GM vehicles. I have a 96 Concours/Deville and the special attachment did not fit my dogbone mounts, so I just used the regular tool and it worked great.

mcowden
11-26-05, 02:31 PM
I'm happy to report that I purchased the Thexton GM Engine moving tool for ~$38 shipped from http://www.everhartsales.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=22456 and it worked great. The whole repair only took about 90 minutes and now I finally have AC and heat in my car again(My wife thanks you!). Spend the $38 on this tool - it's a HUGE timesaver and will make the job easy the first time.

Edit: The tool instructions say to use the special attachment for 96 and newer GM vehicles. I have a 96 Concours/Deville and the special attachment did not fit my dogbone mounts, so I just used the regular tool and it worked great.

Thanks for the tip, Snyder! When I replaced my blower, I used a Porta Power hydraulic tool to force the engine forward. That's definitely not the recommended way to do it! The tool you found would have been much better and less dangerous to use. Good find!

SLEN
12-03-05, 09:34 PM
put a jack under the front of the engine cradle, remove the 2 FRONT cradle
bolts and lower the cardle this will give you enough clearence to remove the
blower motor, no do you see why the dealer charges what he does?

quikag
01-03-06, 10:32 PM
Will the blower motor replacement go easier on a '92 Deville with the 4.9L motor? I presume the '97 has the North*?

Ranger
01-07-06, 10:58 PM
Yes, the '97 in question is a Norhtstar. I had a '92 Deville but never had to change the blower, so I can't comment. You might get a better reponse in the Deville section.

1998Deville
02-02-06, 09:38 AM
Slightly off topic but that web site also sells the water pump tool for like $17
http://www.everhartsales.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=27445

bob'scaddy
02-28-06, 02:27 PM
Wanted to put on my 2 cents here. I know most of this discussion is dealing with a Northstar engine, but there semes to be little discussion dealing with a 4.9, so I thought for those that have the 4.9 and read this thread, this information might be helpful. I have a 94 DeVille, with a 4.9 and had to replace my blower motor. After reading all I could about replaceing the blower motor, I felt that my best approach would be to remove the engine cradle and with a floor jack lower the engine. This method worked very well for me and I felt more comfotable moving the engine by lowering it rather than attempting to pry it forward. I remove the front strut "dog bone" to get better clearance in removing the blower motor. FYI, since I had read that the rear spark plugs on this engine can be a "bear" to remove, I planned ahead and installed some new rear spark plugs with the engine lower on the floor jack. I found that replaceing the rear plugs with the engine lowered was actually easier than rplaceing the front plugs. If I still have the car when it needs a new set of plugs, I think that I will actually lower the engine to change the plugs, rather than fight with such low clearances on the rear plugs. It really was a simple matter to lower the engine, just two bolts off of the engine cradle, and when I jacked the engine back up, the bolts went right in with very little problems aligning them up. This method might or might not help with the Northstar engines, but it did the trick for the 4.9.

RockOn123
03-19-07, 11:56 PM
I have replace the blower on a 1996 and a 1993 deVille. The 1993 was a simple remove and replace. The blower cost about $30 for a lifetime unit from autozone.

The 1996 however, was much more costly. After I got into it and figured out what I was doing, it only took about 30min to replace the unit. The sensor just to the right of the left/right center of the engine was removed along with the 2 spark plug wires from the right end of the ignition coils. The lifetime blower from autozone slipped right in without any shifting of the engine etc. I put the old and the new aluminized heat shields back in place and the unit has been running for about a year now.

victor12759
04-11-07, 10:34 PM
ANYONE KNOW THE EASIEST WAY OF REPLACING THIS?:hmm:

THANKS

I just disasembled the old motor and pulled it out in sections. The newer motor was a little tough to get in you have to cut the case and it looks like hell when your finished the whole case starts to crack and duck tape hold it back together

mitlar37
12-19-12, 06:31 PM
Finally got mine replaced in my 99 Deville. Had to lower the front engine cradle about 2 inches using a floor jack under the front of the cradle - not enough for bolts to come completely out (I stuck 2 fingers in between the cradle bushing and the frame to estimate 2 inches)- then I used a nylon ratcheting tie-down strap that I had and attached it to my pick-up trailer hitch and driver side engine bracket by the "dog bone" (I removed the front of both dog bones)and ratcheted (rocked) the engine forward another 2 inches. This drop and rock technique allowed me to remove the old blower and install the new one fairly easily. The next time I do this it should take me about an hour tops - instead of the 8 hours I spent this time ( mostly cursing GM).

31415926
01-07-13, 06:38 PM
I just disasembled the old motor and pulled it out in sections. The newer motor was a little tough to get in you have to cut the case and it looks like hell when your finished the whole case starts to crack and duck tape hold it back together

I did the same thing on my 98 Deville. Didn't cut anything though. Just remove the fan from the base then asemble them after put them into it. I asked my wife to help me because her hand is smaller but she'd rather watch TV so I did all myself.