: Battery Relocation to the trunk

06-18-05, 01:16 PM
Has anyone ever attempted this on a B or D Body Cadillac?

I did it on my 80 Turbo T/A and my 85 Cutlass and it was the single best handling move and ride improvement move I have ever done. The car was MUCH more balanced.

The Rolls Royce and Bently's have it in the back, 2 large batteries in front of the rear bumper in the trunk area.

The 2000-up S430/S500/S600 Mercedes has it deep in the right rear fender in the trunk area.

Consider it this way, you take 50-60 lbs from several FEET in front of center of gravity (CG) and move it several feet opposite is a very significant difference. Herb Adams said it was the same equiv weight transfer as moving the whole drain back 10 inches in the frame. This is quite a difference in handling. Pontiacs and Olds have even more of a difference in weight transfer as the battery moved from left front to right rear.

I am looking into it. Need a place to mount it safely. Need a safe box to keep it in. And securely mounted. This will also help a lot in the winter and on the drag strip. With out the posi, right tire fry's are to easy.

06-18-05, 01:36 PM
Not a bad idea. I shouldn't think it would be too hard to do. Only thing I can think of that might cause a little head scratching would be where to run the cables, but I've thought about moving mine before because of the weight. Just not too high on my priority list at this moment.


06-18-05, 04:32 PM
Eventually I'm moving mine to the trunk, over pass. side rear tire. I noticed if I lift the battery out of the tray in the engine bay, front end moves up about 1/8"-3/16". I'm all for balanced ride and every little bit counts. Just like you said Mercedes and other car makers are doing it. So why not try to implement something better especially if the investment is minimal. Summit and Jegs sell kits that range from $40.00-$90.00. But I'm probably just gonna get the cables and build a box myself out of aluminum diamond plate or stainless sheeting, we got plenty of scrap at work. I'd rather spend extra on high quality cables.

06-18-05, 08:30 PM
You might be able to run the cables inside the framerails?

Theoretically, you can attach the negative cable anywhere, but I know of at least one guy who could not get it to run right untill he ran the negative all the way back to the engine as well. Guess the body just wasn't designed to carry that much voltage back to the batt LOL.
I'd also try to vent it in some way. Batteries can give off hydrogen gas, this is why the NHRA requires all relocated batteries to be vented to outside the car.

Let us know. I've been thinking about it for some time, but just too lazy. It should be pretty straightforward at least.

06-18-05, 11:23 PM
Over the rear tire works, but the farther back the better, again, it matters how far from CG.

I will look into it very soon, I have a tank (well, ok, M109 Track Mounted Howitzer) slave cable with no ends. So it has negative and positive. Run both, and ground it at both ends. It is like 00 or 000 cable, at least 1/2" stranded wires. Lugs are a pain to find.

I will definately heed NHRA rules for it, they are there for safety. I didn't on my other cars, but I should have.

I will have to address the front suspension travel, mine is too tall if you ask me anyway, I like Katshot's ride height.

A solid box like the aluminum one that Summit has is likely best, the boat ones are a pain to try to mount, as the battery can slide around in it still, it isn't meant to be driven in a car. If you punch a hole through to mount, then it can leak, so no go there.

06-19-05, 05:07 AM
My friend did that on his 94 Corsica, not for weight transfer but so we could mess around and put the infamous hood scoops on there. The cables seem to be too big to try to run through the interior, he did on his car and they were way too noticible. I've been thinking about doing it on the ETC with the cables through the frame rail, since it has the horrible FWD weight distribution of like 62/38 or something.

06-19-05, 09:08 AM
I have always run mine down the drivers size frame rail. Being it is a C Channel frame, aka, not boxed, it fits inside. You just secure it there. Then I run directly to the starter and leave the old wire intact and connected, but insulated. So in a crunch, I can still connect a second battery for more starting power.

06-19-05, 07:01 PM
Summit has an NHRA legal batterybox that is enclosed and sealed for $95. Hmm, get an Optima type battery and mount it anyway you want to! That might be just the ticket. You know, there is a lot of room under the car in the back, if Bentley can put 2 in front of the rear bumper, why not? If there is room in the back, go for it. Dual batteries even, more rear weight/traction. But if single is enough, I stay with single.

06-19-05, 09:53 PM
I have to admit, 2 Optima batteries infront of the rear bumper sounds pretty sweet! Where did you get the cable, by the way?


06-20-05, 01:22 AM
Often people use Welding cable. I got mine from some scrap wire the Army was throwing away. The cable was more expensive to fix than to replace the ends with now ones. So out it went...

DopeStar 156
06-20-05, 02:10 AM
Besides easier access, I can't think of any convenience for doing this. I'm not objecting, but I just can't think of a reason why I'd do it.

06-20-05, 05:33 AM
Did you read the post at all? Or are you just saying you don't have a reason to do it because you don't care about weight distribution or handling?

DopeStar 156
06-20-05, 11:41 AM
Did you read the post at all? Or are you just saying you don't have a reason to do it because you don't care about weight distribution or handling?

06-20-05, 03:37 PM
I would expect it would make a dramatic difference in winter driving as well, it did on both my other rides. Not posi, but much improved. Still better than a wrong wheel driver anyday!

06-21-05, 08:28 PM
RWD is better any day... just not when it's not snowing or icey.

06-22-05, 04:08 PM
I always feel RWD is far superior to FWD in the snow or ice.

1. You never lose steering in RWD.
2. You can always modulate the angle of the car with the gas pedal if needed.
3. With traction control and/or posi you are virtually unstoppable in the snow as compared to a FWD car on the same terrain.

Granted, for a inexperienced driver, FWD is more forgiving, but can also be more dangerous, as you have more headon collisions with FWD than RWD. With the front tires doing 90% of the braking, all the steering and the power application, you add slick conditions to that, and you just lost VERY important traction.

My 1980 Turbo T/A has still been the best car in the snow and ice that I have ever had (honest!! I have driven though some great ice storms in St. Louis where I grew up!). My 94 Fleetwood doesn't have posi (not available with traction control), so it takes second place, but with posi I think it would gain first place. And moving the battery to trunk really enhances that.