View Full Version : Gave up on oil change

06-12-05, 04:58 PM
Its just to hard to get too. If you take the filter off, theres no way you can see if your putting it back in right, just easier to take it to the shop. Access is just to hard. I have steel ramps, but they are a bitch to get the car on, one wrong move and im afraid the car will drive over the ramps and do some damage. So much for saving a few bucks...

I have 5W30 Valvoline Syntec 'full synthetic' for this change, will see how this works out, $4.68 a quart, and then a $6.00 PureOne oil filter, this was the higher priced filter with better 'filtration.' My oil change light hasnt came on, I have added about 1.3 quarts of oil since the last oil change December 20th, 2004, I have gone about 3,600 miles since the last change, city, idling, hard driving, even though the light hasnt came on, I figure it needs a change. I was thinking about 10W30, but I figured go with what it says, 5W30 will be fine. My new job, I will be driving about 450-550 miles a week, or more.

EDIT: If its not raining tommorow, will try the ramp approach. I figured I can drive up on the ramp, jack the rear end up with a jack (to level it out), and then change the oil. What was previously done, the car was jacked up a little bit on the drive side FRONT wheel where the shock absorber is, I didnt feel it comfortable. I still dont know if I can use the ramps, as the bumper is leaning down, and might push the ramps away while I try to climb them...

06-12-05, 08:19 PM
ramps are not necessary just jack the car up from the middle under the engine crossmember thing where there are about 4 holes right under teh engine.

then do what you are going to do but ramps are not necessary for an oil change

u can also just jack it up on one side no need to have it level.

06-12-05, 10:28 PM
I need some advice, tips, and tricks, going to be my first oil change on my own:

1.) oil the gasket on the new filter
2.) put the new filter on till it stops, then twist it 1/4 turn, some say 3/4 to 1 what is right???
3.) How hard do I tighten the oil plug? Turn it till it stops by hand, then 1/4 turn with a wrench?

I dont wanna screw anything up, thanks! :thumbsup:

06-12-05, 10:40 PM
I'd try and stick with 3000K changes, especially if you're spending lots of time in stop and go traffic... The factory isn't super concerned with your engine running strong past 200K miles - they make money selling you NEW cars ;)

I would stick with the 5-30 though, especially in winter. The lighter weight will get it moving about the engine faster on cold starts. It has just about the same viscosity as 10-30 though when warmed up.
IF you spend alot of time idling in traffic in 100*+ heat, I would think about the 10-30 for the summer. A little thicker oil for better protection when the engine is hot.

As for getting to the filter, you'll figure it out. I doubt the service station guys have any more specalized too than a filter wrench or a strap wrench. Sure, the lift makes it easier, but you'll get used to it. I used to hate doing the filter on my g/f's Sentra. Filter is on the back of the engine. Always spills oil on my arm and the exhaust geting it off and putting the new one on. I also have to feel around for a minute or so to find the filter pad each time, then line up the threads. Just be careful not to cross-thread it and you'll be fine.

06-13-05, 01:55 AM
Trust the oi life monitor. It keeps much better track of how you drive than you do. Blanket statements like change at 3000 miles are doing nothing more than wasting your $$, as well as running synthetic. GM has learned a LOT of the years on oil and with current spec oil it is almost as good as synthetic was a few years ago. Most synthetics out there are SL rated oil, most petroleum oils are SM rated. Actually BETTER.

Do yourself a favor read up on it on the 4.9L forum. Look for synthetic, and oil life monitor. Look for responses from BBob. He works in the bowels of GM and has extensive access to the internal testing. Do not waste $$ on anything but a AC Delco oil filter. There is no minimum spec on oil filters. GM Specs the AC Delcos, and they must live up to it, but people like to run their favorite brand. Most suck, and bad. Fram especially. They cap the filter element in CARDBOARD!! AC Delco, STEEL. Ever see cardboard survive soaked in oil for very long?

Stick with a good quality oil, don't waste on synthetics, trust the OLM, and run AC Delco filters. Personally, my engine is older, so I am running the 15W40 oil, as BBob said, the 15W40 truck oils (not the pickup trucks mind you, the diesel semi's) have added antiwear additives in larger quantites than car oils. They protect against wear much better than car oils. The LT1's still have a distributor gear in the back to drive the oil pump, so it is needed. I have noticed NO improvements or losses in fuel economy with the heavier weight oil as compared to the 5W30 it replaced. I recommend as per BBob, RotellaT, Delo or Delvac 15W40. If you feel so strongly that your driving is so much harsher than GM can devise (trust me as a tier 1 supplier to GM, they are VERY creative...) and NEED synthetic, (remember, GM has engineers who study this!), then run something like RotellaT's 5W40 synthetic. It is still much better than most synthetics out there.

Yes, the synthetic/petroluem debate will go on forever, but after some PM's to BBob about his job and some of what he has done, I do feel confident in his credentials to recommend what he recommends. Read up on the posts he has written, they are numerous. Synthetics do have thier place, I am not saying they do not, but in the case of your LT1, and how that car would ever be driven (death valley, summer, 107 mph on the limiter, loaded to the weight limit of the car), you will not NEED synthetic. It is truly a waste of $$.

All the tests you see on the oil additives (which, by the way, void a new car warranty, so why bother using them) and even some synthetics, are bogus and invalid tests anyway. So do not trust them. Yes, people get on thier high horse about Amsoil, I have seen video tapes of some of their products, and I do feel they are a good product (BBob does not wholly agree), but looking at the test data, it doesn't lie. But most are VERY out of date and not on current oil technology. Oil has come a long way.

If you are wondering how good? The base reference oil that all oils are compared to is a synthetic oil, and many petroluem oils with the SL and SM Spec outperform it. So again, why waste the $$.

With the long life that the LT1 cars see, I do not agree that GM does not care about you running past 200K (well, GM EXPECTS 220K or 10 years from what I have heard, but for the life of me, cannot remember where). But the LT1's are commonplace to see 300K+ on petroleum oils.

In the conditions you would ever run your car in, with synthetic vs without, you would not be able to even tell the wear differences. Everyone is so brainwashed with the metal to metal contact crap that Slick 50 has blasted out there, that people actually believe it. In realty there is no metal to metal contact, the oil has sufficient film strength that is actually doesn't. There are some high pressure areas, like distributor gears and oil pump gears, but most have a fairly large cushion of oil to ride on. And the ring temps do not get high enough to warrant synthetic in how these cars will ever be driven. Now, take it to a racetrack and drive it like a Vette, then you might. Only then.

I think the LT1 cars are one of the easiest to change oil on, no worries. Jack it up and (jackstands!!!!) and get under and pull it off. You won't have any problems. 1994 Fleetwood RWD FSM says 16 lb ft for oil drain plug torque.

06-13-05, 08:47 AM
Good post NODIH!! :thumbsup:

06-13-05, 09:04 AM
I had my battery replaced months ago, and I dont know if this could have reset the oil life process, and started everything from scratch. That's why im taking no chances and getting it changed.

I know the purolator filter is blue. At any rate, I will never use dyno oil again, I have yielded a better increase in MPG with synthetic blend oils(1MPG), and full synthetic 5W30 should help out a little more. I've had 10W40 regular dino oil turn black after 500 miles, and 10W30 Syn-blend stay a light color after 500 miles, both hard driving. I will follow the oil life indicator, but just want to go ahead and change the oil now, due to the battery thing, reset the indicator, and see how long it takes to light up.

06-13-05, 12:51 PM
20W50 and 10W40 are to be avoided, too many additives, ring sticking is an issue.

But so far in my experience, you "should" get better mileage with sythetic, it rarely offsets the costs if you change it often. Even with Amsoil on the extended drains competeing with dino oil, the costs at 35K miles, dino oil IS cheaper. IF you drive like I do where I typically get 7000 miles on the OLM. Shorter trips or more harsh driving "results may vary".....

5 qts Amsoil 0W30 $40
3 SD oil filter $8.50 (change every 12500 miles)
shipping (??)
= $48.50 + tax + shipping. Expect close to $60, but you should not exceed 60, unless oil is more expensive.

20 qts RotellaT = $6.70 X 5 = $33.50
4 AC Delco filters = $4.00 X 4 = $16.00
$49.50 + tax, no shipping.

Now, the costs are close, and you don't end up dumping excess oil into the environment, which IS an advantage of extended drains. That is, IF you trust extended drains on oil changes. I have for years and have never had any ill effects, and that is with 200K+ miles on the car. But note also, I have had other cars that have been beat on more, and had 3000 mile oil changes that have lasted just as long, and had the same results. Your choice. I don't think synthetics really have as much a place as they did 10 years ago. Technology has changed.

I suspect the Pure One is an ok filter, when I get mine off I will cut it apart and let you know. But I finally found a source for AC Delco filters at Pep Boys. But not all Pep Boys carry them. No one else around here does. But after seeing many cut apart, I am narrowing my use of them to AC Delco only. I have seen an Amsoil filter (pre SD series) and it was made very well. So I don't have any thoughts bad on them.

06-13-05, 02:27 PM
Read this info on oil filters, it TEARS THEM DOWN, so you dont have too:


I tried again, drove the car on wooden ramps, couldnt get to it comfortably. I figured if I got it off, I would NOT be able to get it back on.

06-13-05, 04:46 PM

Ok, finally got my oil changed. I couldnt use the steel ramps because of the bumper, so I went to plan B.

I drove the front of the car onto wooden ramps, set the brake, got out. Put blocks on the front right wheel, and rear right wheel. Went to the driver side rear wheel, took the jack and jacked it up at the jack point, took a jack stand and placed it under there raise it up, so it was about 1/4 inch from the frame member, in the event the jack failed the jack stand would hope fully catch it(hope fully, this should work?)...

After jacking it up, I could finally do something I couldnt do before, REACH THE OIL PLUG! I got the socket that fit, it slipped a couple times(note, move oil pan out of way, I knocked it 2-3 feet away after it slipped), I didnt think I was doing it the right away. I double checked with my neighbor, who told "Lefty loosy then righty tighty", great, went back, now I that I was positive I wasnt tightening it, I set the ratchet properly and began un-loosing it, took two hands and some grunting, but it budged, moved the ratchet twice, after that I un-screwed it manually, really slow. I finally pulled it out and the oil starts pouring out into the pan. It dribbled after 5 minutes, rocked the front driver side off the car, and added a little bit of oil around the edge of the cap, but it back on, and turned it about 1/2 to a full turn...Oil filter came next, it was covered in oil residue(oil leak). After wiping it off several times, my hands finally get a good grip on it. I start lossening it, after 1-2 slow turns, oil starts pouring out and into the pan, I let it drip out, wait a minute and then start turning it, after I get the whole thing off oil(still quite warm) pours out, I dump the oil from the filter into the oil pan, and wipe the oil off my hands and throw the old filter in a bag.

Get the new filter, dip a finger in the oil pan and wipe 3 layers of oil around the seal on the new filter, I schooch a little under the car, and can see the edge of oil filter hole, I start screwing it in(move oil pan out of way, incase you drop filter, I didnt drop it, but I realized that would be smart :coolgleam ), it took several tries, but finally start screwing in till it stopped, I then gave it a half turn, then another half turn then it wouldnt go on any more, good enough.

Poured 5 quarts of Valvoline Syntec Full Synthetic 5W30 motor oil in. Sealed it up, drank some Mountain Dew. :drinker I removed all the blocks after lowering the vehicle, turned the key to run, reset the oil life indicator, suprsingly after 3 pumps of the gas pedal, the light started flashing. I did check the oil before starting, it was full. ;) Started the car, smooth, no leaks, drove it down the street and back, no strange noises, no noticeable leaks, sounded good to me. Parked it, closed the hood, cleaned up, and done. It took about 1.5 hours, but it got done.

06-13-05, 08:17 PM
I am puzzled why you are having problems with the oil filter. What is making it difficult? I have a 94 (granted, it is a V4P, and my filter is a little bit lower), but what is the problem? Is something in the way?