: Suggestions On Sway Bars



juiceE
06-06-05, 12:40 PM
HEY ALL.

I BEEN THINKIN ON GETTIN SUM BEEFIER SWAY BARS? BUT I DONT HAVE ALOTA $$$. WHICH KIND DO U RECOMEND TO REDUCE SUM SWAY. ARE THERE FRONT BARS FOR THE FWB? WHICH WOULD BE MORE EFFECTIVE, FRONT OR REAR, OR BOTH?

THANX:drinker

N0DIH
06-06-05, 02:17 PM
Read these first. ( note who wrote them as well, and the recommendations below )

http://www.theherd.com/articles/swaybar.html

http://www.theherd.com/articles/swaybar2.html

I would recommend what was recommended to me from Scott Mueller:

"Best front bar would be the H-O Racing 1.375 (1-3/8") bar.

H-O Racing makes the *absolute best* swaybars for the B/D-cars. They have the same awesome rear bar as HA, but priced lower and MUCH easier (and quicker) to get. They also have what I feel is the overall *best* front bar for the B/D-car right now as well, bigger than the F-car front and even bigger than the HA front bar. I recommend either the complete H-O set or the H-O rear with the 2nd gen F-car front (if you want a snappier, more neutral setup).

Either of these combos are more effective and less expensive than others currently on the market.

H-O Racing
8780 Bajado ct
Rancho Cucamonga CA 91730
(909)980-1451

<http://www.hoenterprises.com>
Contact: Ken Crocie <mailto:crocie@msn.com>, tell him I sent you.

Scott (Mueller)"

HotRodSaint
06-06-05, 09:54 PM
What he said. :)

juiceE
06-08-05, 11:04 AM
sounds good

vanaisa
06-09-05, 05:49 AM
As i remember, Katshot recommends Fleetwood limo sway bars? They are stiffer, than standard versions....

HotRodSaint
06-09-05, 09:24 AM
As i remember, Katshot recommends Fleetwood limo sway bars? They are stiffer, than standard versions....

Yeah, that's the cheaper way to make your car slightly better handling than stock. If indeed, searching for used limo bars is the cheap way. Personally, my time (and my patience) is always a purchasing factor.

You can also install used F-body front bars, which could also be found searching the bone yard. But I think they still use the HA/HO rears with this set-up. And used F-body bars are harder to find now that the 'word' is out.

If it's the same article I'm thinking of, then what NODIH linked speaks of most of the swaybar mods.

N0DIH
06-09-05, 12:59 PM
Yup, I think it is. I would like to dimension the Limo bars and have Scott update his articles, it would be good to have factory stuff in there too. Maybe the Limo bar IS the 70-81 T/A bar!

N0DIH
03-07-06, 12:50 PM
Just an update on myself. The limo bar is NOT the 1.25" F body bar. It is a 28mm bar with a longer lever. Shared with Caprice 9C1, Impala SS, Cadillac FE2 and Cadillac Limo FE7.


Yup, I think it is. I would like to dimension the Limo bars and have Scott update his articles, it would be good to have factory stuff in there too. Maybe the Limo bar IS the 70-81 T/A bar!

FASSTWOOD
03-07-06, 10:53 PM
I recently installed the f-body front and ha rear bar along with the bmr lower arms. Man what a difference I shoulda done this a while ago. Feels great on the parkway off ramps. I found mine used on the impalass forum.

96Fleetwood
03-08-06, 07:47 AM
Save your $$ and get the matching Hotchkis Front and Rear Sways.. you will not regret the upgrade. :thumbsup:

brougham_geezer
03-08-06, 08:53 AM
Swaybars make a hell of a difference tightening these cars up. My brougham already has that thin one on it(to keep harshness out of the ride), but I had to put one on the Parisienne. I've never seen a Pontiac with one on it from the factory, can anyone verify this? It's off an 1985 Caprice, and it's plenty beefy, much bigger than the one on the Caddy. If you want to save money, a junkyard is the way to go. This thing cost me $20 Canadian. I sanded it, and painted it, with the final coat being a glossy black.

I actually had to buy some brand new hardware from the dealer, in order to bolt in on. The bar mounts on brackets that fit between the rails on the arms, and those brackets were not there. I had to bolt them in first, and then bolt the bar to them. Very tight looking set up though. After having to go to the dealer, and buying the bar, it all came to about $40. Definitley worth it. And even though you wouldn't think about it, it's not only a performance mod. Thes things are visible, from the right angle, and really add to the "package look" of your car. I think it really completes the vehicle.

Start asking at junkyards. And just to clarify, this Caprice bar I have on my Pontiac, would bolt onto the D body Cad. no problems? Might be something interesting to see what difference there is between the Cadillac bar, and the 9C1 style one.

N0DIH
03-08-06, 03:11 PM
Yes, 77-96 B/D front bars all interchange, as well as all 1970-1981 F Bodies. The Z28 and T/A's (WS6 and some F41 cars) had 1.25" thick bars and short levers, which are a good improvement on the B/D cars. If you hadn't noticed, the 70-81 F and 77-96 B/D shared front suspensions... As well as 73-77 A/G body. The 78-88 A/G body cars are similar, but very few if any parts interchange. If there is specific questions on those cars, PM me. It is out of the scope of this forum.

The differences are lever and diameter. Thicker bar and shorter lever make a stiffer bar and typically make for better handling. Bigger isn't always better, but often it is.

You don't want to get it out of balance (like HA/HO racing bar on back and stock in front, or HA/HO front bar and no rear, etc. Fat front bars and no rear are often ok, but can get annoying too.

I strive for balance of the bars, but it all is how you drive. If you corner hard and use the gas to modulate your speed in the corner, you likley want less rear bar and/or more front, if you just ride the corner out and aren't to keen on nailing the gas in the corner, you might not want too much rear bar.

I have found the FE2 suspension is fairly balanced in hard cornering when gas is applied to modulate the corner, but still leans a bit much, so it needs MORE bar, mainly front, and maybe a little more rear to balance it out.

BCs71
03-09-06, 10:46 AM
If adding an aftermarket (fatter) rear bar be sure to upgrade the rear lower control arms. These are pathetically thin for even aggressive driving (let alone performance driving).

BMR makes good LCAs at a fair price.
Global West makes them also, but are more $$ IIRC.

Here's another option for LCAs:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/312568/7

N0DIH
03-09-06, 11:57 AM
Were the 9C1 lower arms any better? Or the older A/B/C/D/G cars better? AS in 73-77 A/G and 71-76 B/C/D?

I knw my 76 Olds B lower arms were tough steel!


If adding an aftermarket (fatter) rear bar be sure to upgrade the rear lower control arms. These are pathetically thin for even aggressive driving (let alone performance driving).

BMR makes good LCAs at a fair price.
Global West makes them also, but are more $$ IIRC.

Here's another option for LCAs:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/312568/7

BCs71
03-10-06, 12:00 PM
Were the 9C1 lower arms any better? Or the older A/B/C/D/G cars better? AS in 73-77 A/G and 71-76 B/C/D?

I knw my 76 Olds B lower arms were tough steel!

I can't speak for the following:
Or the older A/B/C/D/G cars better? AS in 73-77 A/G and 71-76 B/C/D?

But for 1991-6 B and D bodies, I think they all had the same arms stock. That likely includes 77-90 pieces as well, I'd bet they're all the piece that never changed to save money. Which is why the Impala SS even got them which was intended for a performance or "spirited driving" crowd.

N0DIH
03-10-06, 12:16 PM
We have some local welders in town that are supposed to be pretty good. Wonder if it is adviseable to pull them off one at a time and bring them down and have him box them and maybe even weld up some plate steel on the sides to reinforce them.

What is the failure mode? Do they collapse inwards? Anyone do any failure mode effects and analysis? Sorry, I work in the business where we do that, it is informative and helpful. Does GM admit to it being a problem?

N0DIH
03-10-06, 12:24 PM
Oh, is it the top and bottom arms that must be torqued in place with all wheels loaded or just the uppers?

GeoGoGo
03-20-06, 07:20 PM
We have some local welders in town that are supposed to be pretty good. Wonder if it is adviseable to pull them off one at a time and bring them down and have him box them and maybe even weld up some plate steel on the sides to reinforce them.

What is the failure mode? Do they collapse inwards? Anyone do any failure mode effects and analysis? Sorry, I work in the business where we do that, it is informative and helpful. Does GM admit to it being a problem?

The sway bar mount points will pull through the stock control arms. All B and D bodies (Caprice, Caprice 9C1, Impala SS, Roadmaster, and Fleetwoods) have the same control arms. When I had mine stock arms off, I was able to compress them with one hand. While it was not down the length of the arm but rather across the width of them. I was amazed how flimsy they were.

You really should check out the ImpalaSS forums. Tons of info amd most of it pertains to Fleetwoods as well.

N0DIH
03-20-06, 08:10 PM
I guess they went wimpy to lose weight. I'll have to look into stiffer ones....

N0DIH
03-21-06, 12:07 AM
You mean like this?

http://impalassforum.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=005103;p=1#000 028