: Get your rear brakes replaced!



carguy16
05-21-05, 12:34 PM
I just had my rear brakes replaced, what a difference! The parking brake works excellent now, it doesnt stop on a dime,but it actually works pretty good. My drums were in excellent condition, they didnt even need turning. I just cant wait to get the front brakes, If all goes well I want to get the 9C1 pads, or Impala SS pads, and im considering some high quality rotors, or some slotted rotors($120.00 a pop).

My old brakes were worn, cracked, the surface was scared and chunked in a couple places, but now, amazing! :) Of course, the brakes were adjusted nicely too, dont know how long that will last.

ocjmakaveli
05-21-05, 07:53 PM
Now comes the hard part Learn to adjust them Properly yourself every 3 months OR take it to a shop to have them adjusted every 3-6 months depending on mileage driven per month.

If you do not adjust them then they will NOT brake properly.

carguy16
05-21-05, 08:13 PM
My neighbor had a tool that measured the depth of the drum, and distance(wear) of the shoes, using those devices, he made it perfect.

Actually, he measures the drum diameter, after that he puts the tool around the shoes with the drum diamater, and adjust the shoes so they are making best contact with the drum.

After driving around the neighborhood at 30 MPH, and making about 6 complete stops, and one two slow downs for a turn, just touching the rim in the back they were pretty hot. The fronts of course were even hotter.

On another note, if the shoes have not been replaced in awhile, or they look crappy, just get them replaced, start fresh, know waht you have on there. 9 times out of 10 they are probably some cheap $9.99 or $14.99 shoes, i just wish I could have ordered some Rebesto's, but these were the best ones they had, they are premium and relined, I spent $30.00 bucks on them, and there was an additional $5.00 core charge, so they are about the same as Raybesto's, $35.00.

I just hope they dont glaze or crack easily, they are quality shoes, so I will hope for the best.

I have another question, every time I park my car, I set the parking brake because of the auto release, does or can this cause anything to become out of adjustment faster?


Now comes the hard part Learn to adjust them Properly yourself every 3 months OR take it to a shop to have them adjusted every 3-6 months depending on mileage driven per month.

If you do not adjust them then they will NOT brake properly.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-21-05, 08:47 PM
im confused , every drum brake system i have seen made since the late 50s has had a "automatic adjuster"(also called star wheel adjuster) which automaicly adjusts the shoes out closer to the drum every time you back up and hit the brakes ......im 99% sure you car has these .....dont worry about the adjustment ...if you get too worried back up to around 10 mph and hit the brakes hard ..do that 4 times and they will be about as good as it gets

carguy16
05-21-05, 10:17 PM
Yes, I have those. But, my neighbor showed me something, it was something to do with adjustment, it had a screw that screwed into something and made it tighter, he showed me how it was adjusted before and after I had my brakes done, and wow what a difference, it was about 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch change in the way the screw was tightened.

At any rate, even if you do have automatic slack adjuster's, they will still need some adjustment. Ask any commercial motor vehicle mechanic, drum brakes always need adjustment, if they get out of adjustment, you can fail inspection and get a fine. I think this is the same thing we are discussing???

Two weeks ago, the shop said that they could sand the shoes, make a brake adjustment, and they would be fine, but I passed and said that I would just go ahead and get them replaced.

I cant wait to see how they perform in real day to day driving.

Explain parking brake adjustment to me.


im confused , every drum brake system i have seen made since the late 50s has had a "automatic adjuster"(also called star wheel adjuster) which automaicly adjusts the shoes out closer to the drum every time you back up and hit the brakes ......im 99% sure you car has these .....dont worry about the adjustment ...if you get too worried back up to around 10 mph and hit the brakes hard ..do that 4 times and they will be about as good as it gets

brougham
05-22-05, 07:29 PM
The brakes adjust automatically by themselves you don't have to do anything with them. If you do there's something wrong with them.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-22-05, 07:50 PM
Yes, I have those. But, my neighbor showed me something, it was something to do with adjustment, it had a screw that screwed into something and made it tighter, he showed me how it was adjusted before and after I had my brakes done, and wow what a difference, it was about 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch change in the way the screw was tightened.

At any rate, even if you do have automatic slack adjuster's, they will still need some adjustment. Ask any commercial motor vehicle mechanic, drum brakes always need adjustment, if they get out of adjustment, you can fail inspection and get a fine. I think this is the same thing we are discussing???

Two weeks ago, the shop said that they could sand the shoes, make a brake adjustment, and they would be fine, but I passed and said that I would just go ahead and get them replaced.

I cant wait to see how they perform in real day to day driving.

Explain parking brake adjustment to me.
Slack Adjusters are very diffrent than star wheel adjusters , i mantined not only firetrucks but over the road trucks too...In my exeperence if i needed to adjust a automatic slack adjuster i needed to replace the brake shoes or the brake camshaft is worn out...didnt stop me from inspecting them tho LOL ...Once the intial adjustments are made thay are fine till you run out of friction material ...If you have to adjust a automatic slack adjuster then you are doing something wrong or you are a typical florida over the road dump truck maintiner (i cant belive the crap that rolls down the roads here).....

Keep the slack out of the parking brake cable .....thats the adjustment there ....

carguy16
05-22-05, 09:10 PM
Read about this accident, it involves a motor coach and brakes(lack of brakes). :eek:

Front brakes: out of adjustment, drums had dark spots(over heated)
Drive axle: So badly out of adjustment, they couldnt provide any braking force.
Tag axle(last axle): Not operational, cammed over.

You would think someone would notice when something doesnt stop worth shit.:rant2:

http://www.ntsb.gov/publictn/2001/HAB0101.pdf


Slack Adjusters are very diffrent than star wheel adjusters , i mantined not only firetrucks but over the road trucks too...In my exeperence if i needed to adjust a automatic slack adjuster i needed to replace the brake shoes or the brake camshaft is worn out...didnt stop me from inspecting them tho LOL ...Once the intial adjustments are made thay are fine till you run out of friction material ...If you have to adjust a automatic slack adjuster then you are doing something wrong or you are a typical florida over the road dump truck maintiner (i cant belive the crap that rolls down the roads here).....

Keep the slack out of the parking brake cable .....thats the adjustment there ....

Stoneage_Caddy
05-22-05, 10:36 PM
the ntsb should have noted it was not only poor maintenace but driver error that caused the accident ....

we had a crash 1 year before i got staioned in alaska where the fire deptaremnt was coming down from a LZ on the backside of the base , as they began there decent down the "mountain" they were already too fast , too heavy ,and in top gear....the driver of the firetruck instaed of downshifting early started braking when he realized things were too fast ...it was too late , he cooked the brakes and had so much momentum that transmission downshifting wouldnt work.....the truck left the road and barrel rolled several times before coming to a stop .....we sold the truck to the base in anchorige , at it took them 3 years to put humpty dumpty back together again ...the firemen comaplned to the crash investigators that the truck had "no brakes" and we mechanics had alot fo explaing to do ....

I like how the bus driver shut the engine off ....it had an automatic tranny ....LOL ...so if your going to fast you shut the engine down and thu decouple the engine braking avaible ? what a baffoon

the bus was poorly maintaned , like i say disasters come in threes , the bad driver , poor maitnenance, and a manger somewhere along the lines that was placeing profits ahead of the safety of customers

ocjmakaveli
05-22-05, 10:40 PM
I am certain that on our 94-96 fleetwood broughams the rear drums need maintenance every 4-6 months

beacuse the bottom of the shoe DOES NOT adjust itself thus givin g very little braking in the rear since your only stopping with half the pad and not all of it.

carguy16
05-22-05, 11:05 PM
Maintenance they will get, these shoes are going to last as long as I own the car. What irks me is some people, they dont want to replace anything.

Heres what Im talking about:

Lets say today is May 22nd, I have my Fleetwood until the year 2007, I have about 6 month's remaining life on my shoes, but Im not going to get them replaced till they are worn out. TO me, that is dumb, it will benefit me more now then later.

Same thing with a timing belt on a car, my sister had to have her engine taken apart a little at 81,000 miles, she should have gotten her timing belt replaced then, but she didnt because it wasnt needed doing till 100,000 miles, the car now has 103,000 miles and it was just replaced, but, lets say shes only keeping the car till 120,000 miles, it would have benefited her more having it replaced at 81,000 miles then at 100,000 miles, since the car is going to be gone in another 20,000 miles, see what I mean.

same thing goes for disc brakes, "They dont need changing till they're metal to metal." Uhh, not smart thinking!

I am certain that on our 94-96 fleetwood broughams the rear drums need maintenance every 4-6 months

beacuse the bottom of the shoe DOES NOT adjust itself thus givin g very little braking in the rear since your only stopping with half the pad and not all of it.

carguy16
05-22-05, 11:08 PM
Yeh, people dont know how to drive. Of course, disc brakes supposedly have advantage over drum brakes in this situation.

Hmm, I guess they couldnt "Lock the brakes" up. Makes sense, instead of riding them to a stop, lock them up, slide, un-lock and it might work better? :hmm:

the ntsb should have noted it was not only poor maintenace but driver error that caused the accident ....

we had a crash 1 year before i got staioned in alaska where the fire deptaremnt was coming down from a LZ on the backside of the base , as they began there decent down the "mountain" they were already too fast , too heavy ,and in top gear....the driver of the firetruck instaed of downshifting early started braking when he realized things were too fast ...it was too late , he cooked the brakes and had so much momentum that transmission downshifting wouldnt work.....the truck left the road and barrel rolled several times before coming to a stop .....we sold the truck to the base in anchorige , at it took them 3 years to put humpty dumpty back together again ...the firemen comaplned to the crash investigators that the truck had "no brakes" and we mechanics had alot fo explaing to do ....

I like how the bus driver shut the engine off ....it had an automatic tranny ....LOL ...so if your going to fast you shut the engine down and thu decouple the engine braking avaible ? what a baffoon

the bus was poorly maintaned , like i say disasters come in threes , the bad driver , poor maitnenance, and a manger somewhere along the lines that was placeing profits ahead of the safety of customers

Stoneage_Caddy
05-22-05, 11:32 PM
you never want to lock the brakes....and with the firetrucks fully loaded or busses its pretty hard to lock them up .....once the drum gets too hot the brakes are worthless ...outgassing glazeing all that fun stuff...

disc brakes are not immune to overheating or fadeing ...it just doesnt happen as quickly....but it is pretty hard to "cam over" a capalier on a air brake system ....they were also easier to inspect

they just had to drive smartly , going slow at the crest of the hill ...if your at the crest of the hill getting ready for the decent you never want to be at the speed limit loaded ....you have to be below the limit by quite a bit ....name of the game is to limit the momentum so you never have to hit the brakes ...as soon as the decent begins gear down ....big trucks are a funny thing ....you have to keep on top of them ....if you are lazy about them or dont plan out your moves miles ahead things get ugly... esp as momentum builds expoentually ...

guys im still not buying that your brakes need adjustement every 4-6 months ...what do your owners manuals say ?

Im a big stickler for prentivitive maintenace ....but i do it by the book ....i was known in every shop i worked in for that ...no matter how many times i had done a job i had the manuals out on my work area and would consult them ...i never once had a vehicle come back on me over something that could have killed someone ....

Do the maintenace by the book , youll save money not only on repairs but on downtime ....

there is a happy mediaum between wasteing money and shoveing the shoe's exposed rivtes thru the drums

juiceE
05-23-05, 11:49 AM
(i posted this twice, noticing 2 brake threads)
I Had Adjusted My Drums Twice In Past Week. The 1st Time I Did It, It Felt Like I Had Much Better Braking... But It Went Away Or Back To How It Felt B4 The Day Was Over, So Then I Just Went Under There, And Did Another 5 Clicks, But It Still Feels Like It Went Back To How It "felt" B4 I Ever Adjusted Them.... An I Doing Sumthing Wrong ????

"But, my neighbor showed me something, it was something to do with adjustment, it had a screw that screwed into something and made it tighter, he showed me how it was adjusted before and after I had my brakes done, and wow what a difference, it was about 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch change in the way the screw was tightened."

whats this about?, i jus stuck the adjustr threw the hole in the back of the drum.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-23-05, 12:08 PM
im wondering the same thing , ive never seen a adjusting screw on a modern day system

carguy16
05-23-05, 12:08 PM
Here is what my shoes looked like in the picture.

They had big cracks, spider cracks, scorch marks running horizontally and vertically(perhaps, she stopped at a light and was holding the brake, and they started scoring), they looked awful. They really didnt do much in the way of friction material.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-23-05, 12:31 PM
the large crack by the rivets is a little troubleing but the rest of the wear looks about normal given its age .....now there is a odd wear mark about 3/4 to one inch fromt he rivets thats a bit odd , could be the light but im not sure ....even then judgeing by how the rest of the shoe wore it looks like a non issue ....

they will look worse than what they are .....the glazeing and all that happens , nature of the high heat a drum brake sees .....

I would have replaced them due to the crack ...i wouldnt want to chance any more of the friction material delaminateing or seperateing from the shoe.....did they use new springs ?

tell me about the "screw" adjustment........ for the typical GM (and anyone else's drum system) is accomplished thru a "brake spoon" thru a hole on the backing plate , use the spoon to rotate the star wheel a few clicks with the wheels in the air til you hear it start to drag a bit ....thats the inital adjustment ....after a bit of wear you maynot hear any drag but thats normal ....

Stoneage_Caddy
05-23-05, 12:36 PM
juice , you may have went the wrong way on your adjustment ....if memeory serves each side is diffrent ...one side you flip the spoon on the wheel upward the other side its downward ...but i cant remeber for sure which side is what .....its been 2 years since ive touched a drum .....outside the parking brake on dads 00 siverado last weekend ....redoing the brakes was a interesting deal .....one of the freak "drum in rotor" desgins for rear brakes insated of useing a caliper with integral parking brake ....

carguy16
05-23-05, 01:10 PM
Thats what im talking about.

So, how do you adjust the drum brakes, Im not talking putting it in reverse and hitting the brake either.

juice , you may have went the wrong way on your adjustment ....if memeory serves each side is diffrent ...one side you flip the spoon on the wheel upward the other side its downward ...but i cant remeber for sure which side is what .....its been 2 years since ive touched a drum .....outside the parking brake on dads 00 siverado last weekend ....redoing the brakes was a interesting deal .....one of the freak "drum in rotor" desgins for rear brakes insated of useing a caliper with integral parking brake ....

Stoneage_Caddy
05-23-05, 01:35 PM
oh ok , thats the "star wheel adjuster" .......here i was thinkin screws ...and that you had some odd setup ...now i see its the classic drum ....

to set the initial adjustemnt you put the drum back on and toss the wheel back on , while the entire rear fo the car is int he air you get your "brake spoon" and find the little rubber or metal plug in the backing plate on the bottom thats int he area of that star wheel ....take the spoon and stick it int he hole and feel around till you find the notches on the adjuster then use the spoon to rotate the adjuster while you or a helper spins the wheel ...keep going till you hear the shoes start to scrape the drum ....you can ususaly only go one way on it but i have a few times managed to rotate the dan thing the wrong way ...in that picture you want to grab the wheel at the bottom and rotate it up .....

If you realized how this bugger works you wouldnt think i was putting smoke up your butt on the backing up and hitting the brakes ...i know it sounds weird as hell .....but every time you back up and hit the brakes it trys to move it one click (or does) ...so if you get it close with the brake spoon inital adjustement then go back it up and lean on the brakes in reverse a few times it will adjust itself to the proper specs ....this method is in just about every manual out there ...the only ones it isnt in have rear disc brakes LOL....im also ASE certifiied ,trust me last thing i wanna do is lie to you .....

the adjustment you have been doing every four months feels like it has been making you have beatter brakes because you are making them act faster then they are supposed to , if you do adjust them every 4-6 months you will premturely wear out the rear shoes ....the rear is only desgined to support 30% of the cars braking force ....the other 70% are up to those fronts ....by causeing the drums to act faster your shifting more brake duty to the rear shoes , good sometimes ....but always bad for shoe life .....

set em and forget em for the next year ....then pull the drums and inspect ...toss the drums back on and forget them again .....only worry about adjustment when installing new pads ...

carguy16
05-23-05, 09:30 PM
See, i dont care if i spend 30 bucks on pads, its less then a tank of gas, and its beneficial. I thought out Fleetwoods only had a 90 percent front 10 percent rear braking ratio, is this a myth?




oh ok , thats the "star wheel adjuster" .......here i was thinkin screws ...and that you had some odd setup ...now i see its the classic drum ....

to set the initial adjustemnt you put the drum back on and toss the wheel back on , while the entire rear fo the car is int he air you get your "brake spoon" and find the little rubber or metal plug in the backing plate on the bottom thats int he area of that star wheel ....take the spoon and stick it int he hole and feel around till you find the notches on the adjuster then use the spoon to rotate the adjuster while you or a helper spins the wheel ...keep going till you hear the shoes start to scrape the drum ....you can ususaly only go one way on it but i have a few times managed to rotate the dan thing the wrong way ...in that picture you want to grab the wheel at the bottom and rotate it up .....

If you realized how this bugger works you wouldnt think i was putting smoke up your butt on the backing up and hitting the brakes ...i know it sounds weird as hell .....but every time you back up and hit the brakes it trys to move it one click (or does) ...so if you get it close with the brake spoon inital adjustement then go back it up and lean on the brakes in reverse a few times it will adjust itself to the proper specs ....this method is in just about every manual out there ...the only ones it isnt in have rear disc brakes LOL....im also ASE certifiied ,trust me last thing i wanna do is lie to you .....

the adjustment you have been doing every four months feels like it has been making you have beatter brakes because you are making them act faster then they are supposed to , if you do adjust them every 4-6 months you will premturely wear out the rear shoes ....the rear is only desgined to support 30% of the cars braking force ....the other 70% are up to those fronts ....by causeing the drums to act faster your shifting more brake duty to the rear shoes , good sometimes ....but always bad for shoe life .....

set em and forget em for the next year ....then pull the drums and inspect ...toss the drums back on and forget them again .....only worry about adjustment when installing new pads ...

Stoneage_Caddy
05-23-05, 10:37 PM
Maintenance they will get, these shoes are going to last as long as I own the car. What irks me is some people, they dont want to replace anything..


See, i dont care if i spend 30 bucks on pads, its less then a tank of gas, and its beneficial.
your confuseing me again ....i thought we were doing what was best for the car and brake shoes ?

the only place its benefitical is in a race application ....even then .....its only if you can modualte the pedal .....with premature drum activation on a luxobarge itd be pretty hard to modulate ....typically racers amputate the ABS system so thus modulation fo the pedal is a factor along with being able to find and use the threshold of lockup

perhaps it might help if you were towing something with a havey tounge weight tho....i never thought of that ....

70 /30 is the genral rule ....ive never seen a 90/10 ...but perhaps in a pinch the propotioning valve will flip as high as 90/10 as the rear rises in the air under braking ...but i doubt its long enough if at all to make any diffrence ...

carguy16
05-23-05, 11:08 PM
Yes, I want whats best, and whats best is beneficial.

My brake shoes looked like crap, I was told an adjustment and they'd be fine, I figured it would be more beneficial just to replace the shoes then adjust them, as they are worn/cracking, and it would take years to have them worn down. I now have confidence knowing i have good quality shoes on my car, although id be more confident if they were Reybesto's, because they are "Fleet type shoes, and are recomended for hauling, taxis, police cars, etc..."


your confuseing me again ....i thought we were doing what was best for the car and brake shoes ?.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-23-05, 11:22 PM
thats what i was thinking .....but somewhere my fragile mind got bent up ....

Gotta remeber those shoes were the originals , 10+ years and high mileage is doing GREAT on original stuff ....

If i got 10 years and 100k+ miles on a set of rear shoes i wouldnt change anything i was doing ...

i wouldnt fret too much over the diffrence in brake shoes , from what ive found most of the time you pay for packaging ....the other main difference in some cases is how the friction material is held to the shoe , the cheapest are glued(bonded) , then the rivited..then there are the ones that i think are pretty neat , they are bonded or rivted (or boath) AND the shoe itself is cast with grooves to "grip" the friction material ...basicly there is no way in hell that material will come loose from the shoe ..

now if you really want to get into some werid stuff .....i cant tell you why those drilled and slotted rotors that are all the rage today are a bad idea ...


hope your not getting mad ....im enjoying debateing here ...i rearly get to talk about this sort of thing anymore ....insated im susaly ears deep in a conversation about veterans benefits ....or someone is talking my ears off about all the things microsoft word does when all i wanted to know is how to change the margins ....

juiceE
05-24-05, 10:33 AM
I Know I Used The Spoon In The Right Direction, Because To Open It Up, U Have To Use A Screwdirver To Press A Plate Back, While Turning The Star The Other Direction. But I Think It Was All In My Head. When I Brake, It Is Alot Less Spongy. The Braking Is Just Fine Now, An I Wont Mess With It Any More, Unless I Feel It The Front Is Doing All The Work Again.

Ooh Yea... I Got Sum Slotted Rotors In The Front, Braking Feels The Same As The Solid Rotors, With No Warpage. The Last Time I Replaced My Rotors-which Were Heavy Duty Type- Started The Shaking Vibration Thing Within 2-3 Months, And These Have Been Holding Up No Prblm So Far.

carguy16
05-24-05, 01:07 PM
Good, then I will axe plans for slotted and just get some origional high quality rotors.

A jake brake would be nice...

I dont see any problem with debate. I gotta pay $330.00 to have my front brakes fixed soon, thats new calipers, pads, they wanted to turn the rotors, I want to replace them, new front brake lines, re-pack the bearings.

I wanted to supply some Reybesto's(my neighbor swears by them) brake shoes, and they can buy everything else.



Ooh Yea... I Got Sum Slotted Rotors In The Front, Braking Feels The Same As The Solid Rotors, With No Warpage. The Last Time I Replaced My Rotors-which Were Heavy Duty Type- Started The Shaking Vibration Thing Within 2-3 Months, And These Have Been Holding Up No Prblm So Far.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-24-05, 01:55 PM
LOL !!!

good then ill talk a bit about those slotted rotors ...

Juice , tell me , do you feel any diffrernce in brakeing ability on cold brakes ?you may not ...but i bet you my lunch money that if you have stock daimater slotted rotors and stock caliper and pad sizes riding on them that a good stock setup will stop faster from 60 the first 3 trys , after that you might win ....but we have to find a place where this is normal....LOL

On cold rotors and pads with a stock diameter rotor that is slotted or drilled or boath all you have done is take away surface area. Rarely on the street can you get the pads and rotors hot enough to get them to "outgas" , the benefit of the slotted and drilled rotor is to remove the gases that buildup as the rotor heats up to maintain pad and rotor contact closer. I never did find my notes on brake temperatures but i can tell you i have driven some serious cars over the years that had EBC or the equivlent brake pads and slotted/drilled/combo rotors . I would be rudely surprised at the first application of the brakes , some cars felt as if they wouldnt stop. After a few corners and really getting intot he brakes i could finnaly get them up to temperature to work properly , and then the car would try to suck my eyeballs out ofthere sockets under brakeing.

On the street the only way to get away with a slotted or drilled rotor is to go up in diameter or find a way to incrase the contact area of the pad and rotor with larger calipers.

Good OEM replcemnt rotors are the only way to go if you ask me .....unless the car seeks track duty or tows alot ....and then its more adviseable to upgrade the entire system ....

As far as warping rotors .....i advise useing a diffrent pad ....ive been reading alot of studys recently on how rotors dont warp but its actually deposits a form on the rotor from the pad ...This is something reltively new to me , i always bought that "warping stuff" my self , but this new stuff i have seen looks to be the honest to goodness truth ....ill have to do more reading but from what i recall its something to do witht he pads and how the brakes are used .....

Stoneage_Caddy
05-24-05, 01:57 PM
I will tell you one thing carguy ....invest in some of those ceramic pads ...i really like them ALOT ....im not real hard on my brakes but it is so NICE to not get so much brake dust on the wheels for once and still not give up anything in the "whoa" department ....

carguy16
05-24-05, 08:47 PM
I heard ceramic pads cut the dust and noise, but they dont grip as well as semi-metallic.

I was leaning towards semi-metallic...

I dont care about brake dust or noise(or how loud a jake is:coolgleam ), stopping power is what I want.

I will tell you one thing carguy ....invest in some of those ceramic pads ...i really like them ALOT ....im not real hard on my brakes but it is so NICE to not get so much brake dust on the wheels for once and still not give up anything in the "whoa" department ....

Stoneage_Caddy
05-24-05, 11:39 PM
common myth if you ask me on cermaics being unable to grip as well ...

true full on cermaics are noisy ....

but i still have alot of researcch to do on ceramics , from what i know so far on the stuff avaible for street cars the ceramic in the pads accounts for like 10% of its chemical compund , the rest is standard brake pad stuff ...

so i need to grub up more info on them , id really like to know why they dont leave so much dust , even tho they are still black ....only thing i can figure is that the cermaic in the pads helps the compund stay together tighter and doesnt allow the particles to some off in the same manner as a typical organic or semi metalic pad ..a potential problem of this is that the pad may be too agressive on the rotors , but at the same token it could be a potential beneift that the pad itself will last longer ,or it could be good for the rotors since it wont leave deposts on the rotors causeing "warping"...or it could be all of the above ...

i dont think gas engines have enough compression to make a jake brake worthwhile ...9.5:1 vs 22+:1....but it would sound cool ...

carguy16
05-25-05, 09:12 AM
Yeh, just brand in another exhaust pipe and attach a fart can exhaust kit to it, have a relay switch ready, flip the switch to open exhaust to the fart can, shift down, and yeh, you might have something going on. I wonder how that would sound on a V8?:yup:




common myth if you ask me on cermaics being unable to grip as well ...

true full on cermaics are noisy ....

but i still have alot of researcch to do on ceramics , from what i know so far on the stuff avaible for street cars the ceramic in the pads accounts for like 10% of its chemical compund , the rest is standard brake pad stuff ...

so i need to grub up more info on them , id really like to know why they dont leave so much dust , even tho they are still black ....only thing i can figure is that the cermaic in the pads helps the compund stay together tighter and doesnt allow the particles to some off in the same manner as a typical organic or semi metalic pad ..a potential problem of this is that the pad may be too agressive on the rotors , but at the same token it could be a potential beneift that the pad itself will last longer ,or it could be good for the rotors since it wont leave deposts on the rotors causeing "warping"...or it could be all of the above ...

i dont think gas engines have enough compression to make a jake brake worthwhile ...9.5:1 vs 22+:1....but it would sound cool ...

juiceE
05-25-05, 11:28 AM
i had ceramic pads b4- on the heavy duty solid rotors, i didnt like them 2 much. now i use green stuff pads, which can get noisy sumtimes, but as i said b4, this set up/ combo has been workin great for me, an has outlasted the solid rotor+ceramic setup.

Stoneage_Caddy
05-25-05, 11:37 AM
Yeh, just brand in another exhaust pipe and attach a fart can exhaust kit to it, have a relay switch ready, flip the switch to open exhaust to the fart can, shift down, and yeh, you might have something going on. I wonder how that would sound on a V8?:yup:
it would sound like your running open header .....

an exuast brake would be just about worthless ...just not enough exaust there to be used as a braking force ...and i think it might make things quieter ....

true jake brakes are solenoids perched on top of the valve train , flip the switch and it shuts some of valve train off ....kinda sorta like the 864 cadillac engine ...only with the ammount of compression in a diesel this method goes from being a nice way to deacvtiate a cylander into turning the cylander into a brake .....