: cam timing tool

10-24-03, 03:27 PM
Do you all use a cam locking tool when reassembling 4.6L northstar. If so, will the ones manufactured by LISLE or the adjustable ones sold at northernautosupply.com do the job? These are both made for DOHC motors. Are there any alternate methods of approaching this that would yield good resuts?

Thanks for all of your help.

PS. what is the deal w/ Kent-moore tools? They are no help and never have anything in stock.

10-24-03, 07:29 PM
Im sorry I cant help you, but im sure someone else can......

Have you read the previous posts???

Also, if I may ask, what is the need for a cam tool?? Are you trying to rebuild the engine??? This sounds interesting, it would be cool if you could do a write up for us (hint, hint) :D

10-25-03, 12:58 AM
When replacing the timing chain this tool locks the 2 cam sprockets in place at the correct angular relationship w/ the other rotating parts in the engine to ensure your valves dont play patty cake w/ your pistons.

I've never used one before, but this is my first quad cam motor to work on. I was wondering if this is a must have for this job or if it is just nice to have.

10-25-03, 01:01 PM
I think it's a good thing to have as it's easy to move a gear while putting the chain on and wind up a tooth off. I think any tool would work once. If your not doing this a lot get whatever is available. Let us know how it works because you are ahead of me. We're pulling the heads later this week.

10-25-03, 06:48 PM
I was able to re-time the chains without any special tool whe I had mine apart. Each cam has a hex cast/forged into it. I was able to position the cams with a wrench (can't remember the size). When in the proper timed position, the cams "balanced" on the lifters. A moderate bump would cause the cam to spin down a lobe, but it wasn't a big problem.

FYI the engine I had apart was a 94 295 HP N*

10-26-03, 04:25 AM
I repaired the headgaskets recently on my 93' STS, no proble to get the cams timed right.

One thing to note though; after placing the chains on I will rotate the engine crank twice(on a single cam V8), and recheck to make sure the timing marks are still aligned.

On the Northstar you must roate the crank through eight times to get the crankshaft timing marks and cam alignment points back at your starting point. This is due to the different cranksprocket to camshaft sprocket ratio, with four camshafts.

10-26-03, 01:18 PM
To Growe3:

One of the questions in a couple of threads is the steering column to rack connection. I didn't have a major problem getting that off (2 guys) but I'm worried about getting them back together because the space is so tight. Any comments?

10-26-03, 02:54 PM
To Growe3:

One of the questions in a couple of threads is the steering column to rack connection. I didn't have a major problem getting that off (2 guys) but I'm worried about getting them back together because the space is so tight. Any comments?

I was thinking about starting the 2 front powertrain to frame bolts first so that everything on the rear side of the engine should be lined up or fairly close to it. Then just raise it slowly and dont force it.

10-26-03, 04:48 PM
To Zonie77,
I don't know about the steering rack assembly.

I pulled the engine from the top. A close fit but I do not have the tools to properly remove the engine and transmission assembly from under the car.

The biggest pain was carefully disconnecting all of the electrical connections.

If you remove the engine from the top be sure to support the transaxle at what would be its normal height. This will prevent any binding as you push the engine off of the transaxle dowels.

I also bolted a piece of light angle iron, about 2"x2"x3' long, to the front, top of the heads; this was so I could slightly rotate the engine to avoid damaging the heater barrier as I lifted and moved the engine out of the car.

Once I had it out it was pretty straight foreword to do the repair work.

Speaking from experience, if you remove the heads, use only OEM head gaskets!! They are pricey as they are a graphite composition material that transfers temperature very efficiently and they come with the new head bolts. The head bolt holes MUST be repaired using the Timesert thread repair kit.

I also recommend using only OEM gaskets for any other gaskets you replace. There are really only a few gaskets and seals to replace on it, these seals are of special material that expands on contact with oil, this helps keep the engine tight. You should also note that this engine runs normally much hotter than other engines, some gasket material will not be able to take the temperature extremes, and keep a good seal.

No gasket sealer is used or desired on this engine. Just have the gasket mounting surfaces very clean and dry before clamping down.

This engine while relatively simple to work on, out of the car, it is a very sophisticated system of power.

10-26-03, 05:19 PM
To Growe3:
Thanks for the info...if I had put up the right questions I might have pulled it from the top. As I mentioned elsewhere, I've been pulling other FWD Engines from the top but they've had more room. The Caddy just looked like it was gonna have to come out the bottom.
We did it with the same tools you have. We used a 4x4 under the radiator support and a tow strap wrapped around that several times to lift the body and supported it with a stack of 4x4's while we slid the pwrtrain out.