: 2001 DTS won't accelerate past 2K rpms after spark plug change



Doola36
11-16-13, 11:53 PM
Ok today I decided to change the spark plugs in my DTS because the current ones were really in need of a change. So I picked up me some AC Delco plugs and have at it. After I put everything back together I take it out for a test drive. At first everything was ok until I was on the highway and it started stalling on me. It wouldnt let me go past 2K rpms. So i had to limp it home. Once I got it home I checked for codes. ABS-C1214, C1248-IRC-U1016 all history codes and PCM-P0371-Current Incorrect 1st Gear Ratio and Service Transmission.

So i clear those codes and start off in 1-2-3 gear... It was doing fine but I couldnt get it no more than 45 mph. And it started stalling again. So I limp it back home and check codes again. This time I got PCM-P0404-Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control circuit range/Performance -Current. So I take the EGR valve and this one piece on the rear bank that you have to remove when changing the rear spark plugs and give them a good cleaning. Again take it out for a test drive and i couldnt accelerate no higher than 1500-1700 rpms. So I check the codes again nothing but the ABS history codes from above. Also while in drive or reverse the car bogs down and I cant go WOT.

So Im at a dead end on what to do next. So if someone could point me in an area I should look at please do and thanks in advance.

**Sorry for the long Post***


Doola36

Ranger
11-17-13, 10:11 AM
Check for a clogged CAT.

How was the car running BEFORE the plug change?

Doola36
11-17-13, 11:53 AM
Ok, I will do that but back in May it passed the smog test out here in Cali. The car was running smooth and it was drivable but it lacked that get up and go like my previous 99 Deville had. I just not to long purchased this DTS as a 3rd vehicle to cruise around in. And Im trying to get it into the shape my 99 had before it got totaled. the spark plugs were in very bad shape to say the least.

Doola36
11-17-13, 01:11 PM
Here are two videos I tried to make and sorry for the crappy vid...lol


http://s301.photobucket.com/user/Doola36/media/20131117_095205_zpsa3eaf2a5.mp4.html



http://s301.photobucket.com/user/Doola36/media/20131117_095319_zps0d135a41.mp4.html

MoistCabbage
11-17-13, 01:28 PM
That doesn't look/hear like a cat problem. We're there any history MAP codes? If not, I think I'd check the fuel pressure.

Ranger
11-17-13, 02:52 PM
Fuel pressure is a possibility as well.

Doola36
11-17-13, 03:39 PM
That doesn't look/hear like a cat problem. We're there any history MAP codes? If not, I think I'd check the fuel pressure.

No, the only history codes i had was the ABS and the IRC. I unhooked my battery and checked for any blown fuses and then I was looking at the air box and saw that it wasnt connected together on all the connectors. So I looked at the TB and saw that it needed to be cleaned. I did a "quick" clean of the TB and connected the battery. So I go for a test drive and it would actually go above 40 mph and the rpms could go pass 3K. So im thinking I may need to remove the intake manifold and do some more cleaning.

----------


Fuel pressure is a possibility as well.

Im going to check the fuel pressure after I read on how to perform that check....lol

Ranger
11-17-13, 04:09 PM
You'll have to buy or borrow (from AutoZone) a fuel pressure gauge. Attach it to the service port on the fuel rail and start the engine.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ANM-CP7817.jpg

Doola36
11-29-13, 09:39 PM
Ok, went to autozone and neither had a fuel gauge for me to rent. So I started off with replacing the fuel filter to see if it makes a different. And after that I went into cleaning the throttle body and checking out the Intake coupling. While I was cleaning the throttle body and stuff, the Intake was calling my name to do something to it because it was really REALLY dirty.....

So I have on order the following items:

FPR, Intake Coupling, TPS, MAF, Intake gasket, and spark plug boots...Even if I dont need them I can rule those items out.

(Crankshaft Sensors and Camshaft Sensor due to the miles on the car...**150K**)

164914

164922

164930

164938

Doola36
11-29-13, 09:55 PM
Today after I installed the fuel filter, I took it out for a spend and my normal history code (MSM B1860) was there and nothing else. But when I tried my code reader I got P0404 (EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance) was current. Last week I attempted to clean the EGR valve and now Im thinking of adding that to my list but Im not for sure.

Ranger
11-30-13, 10:16 AM
I suppose if you throw enough parts at it one of them is bound to stick and solve the problem.

Doola36
11-30-13, 10:31 AM
I suppose if you throw enough parts at it one of them is bound to stick and solve the problem.

Not really....lol It's just a piece of mind thing for me. After doing some reading on this forum I prefer to replace certain parts since it seems like the maintenance on this car isnt to my standard.

Aztec ETC ECS
11-30-13, 02:24 PM
So I take the EGR valve and this one piece on the rear bank that you have to remove when changing the rear spark plugs and give them a good cleaning.
The piece you needed to remove is the secondary air injection valve.
Usually a P0404 code points to either carbon buildup or a bad EGR valve.
But since it ran better before the plug change, it could be an open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit,
an open or short in the PCM controlled voltage circuit or an open or short in the ground circuit.
Check to see if there is a ground wire off by the piece you removed.

Doola36
11-30-13, 04:39 PM
The piece you needed to remove is the secondary air injection valve.
Usually a P0404 code points to either carbon buildup or a bad EGR valve.
But since it ran better before the plug change, it could be an open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit,
an open or short in the PCM controlled voltage circuit or an open or short in the ground circuit.
Check to see if there is a ground wire off by the piece you removed.

Ok, I will check for that when I go back out and start messing with it again. After reading about cleaning the EGR valve I removed that today and gave it a better clean. So now Im just waiting on my parts from rockauto.

Before intake cleaned....

165066

After intake cleaned...

165074

Ranger
11-30-13, 08:44 PM
Those pics of the intake manifold are scary and ugly, but normal. That is of no concern and won't cause any problems. It's the TB you need to clean yearly.

Doola36
12-01-13, 12:38 PM
Those pics of the intake manifold are scary and ugly, but normal. That is of no concern and won't cause any problems. It's the TB you need to clean yearly.

I removed the TB completely and gave it a real good cleaning but I couldnt pass on not cleaning the intake. Im wondering how the inside get such a build up like so? I would like to keep the TB and the intake as clean as I can. I get cleaning the TB once or twice a year.

Ranger
12-01-13, 08:13 PM
Im wondering how the inside get such a build up like so?
The oily build up is a combination of exhaust gases from the EGR and oily crankcase gases form the PCV. Both just pass through the intake on their way to the combustion chamber during normal operation, but once shut down, the gases in the intake just sit there and the oil and exhaust particles settle out and accumulate over the years. Like I said, ugly, but harmless.

Doola36
12-07-13, 09:16 PM
Ok, today I changed out the FPR, installed a new intake coupling and new coil boots and I still cant drive the car. The car starts up but when I put it in Drive she doesnt want to accelerate. So I was able to find a fuel pressure tester and here is what it read...

166746

166754

So Im still wondering what my next step to do before I give up and take it to the dealer.

Run down: Cleaned the TB, IAC, Rear air pump valve, EGR valve, and intake. Replaced the FPR and fuel filter, installed a new coupling plus intake gasket, spark plugs and boots, and air filter.

basscatt
12-07-13, 10:13 PM
fuel pressure should be 40 to 45 at idle -

Doola36
12-07-13, 11:50 PM
Ok, I just went to put some gas in the car and on the way back I got the "Service Transmission" message and my service engine light came. So I pulled over to see what the codes are and here are the following:

ABS C1214-History-System relay contact
ABS-C1248-History-EBCM turned warning light on
IRC-U1016-History-Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM
PCM-P0732-Current-Incorrect 2nd Gear Ratio

I also tried a few videos too..


http://s301.photobucket.com/user/Doola36/media/20131207_194444_zps5f42954d.mp4.html


http://s301.photobucket.com/user/Doola36/media/20131207_194354_zps5d22439f.mp4.html


http://s301.photobucket.com/user/Doola36/media/20131207_194541_zps7a0c1c47.mp4.html


http://s301.photobucket.com/user/Doola36/media/20131207_194707_zps4b384ff1.mp4.html

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fuel pressure should be 40 to 45 at idle -

It's only in the 40s when I put it in gear and give it some gas.

rodnok01
12-08-13, 12:27 AM
Doola, you almost had to knock something loose in wiring or ground was left off. The incorrect trans error would lead to a trans wiring issue to me. I would check the connections since it was fine before tuneup.
I don't have your yr, but the older models have ground under ICM that when left off causes issues.

98eldo32v
12-08-13, 06:57 AM
Doola,


Of all the error messages you could have gotten, the "service transmission" to me is the most dreaded one. In my opinion you're looking at a transmission replacement.

The abs c1214, change out the electrical portion of your ebcm. Those abs and traction control light will go out after the swap and the code will exit also.

The incorrect second gear ratio is related to the transmission.

----------

If the fuel pressure regulator and filter have been replaced and you're still having low fuel pressure, you're into a fuel pump replacemnent

Doola36
12-08-13, 10:02 AM
Doola,


Of all the error messages you could have gotten, the "service transmission" to me is the most dreaded one. In my opinion you're looking at a transmission replacement.

The abs c1214, change out the electrical portion of your ebcm. Those abs and traction control light will go out after the swap and the code will exit also.

The incorrect second gear ratio is related to the transmission.

----------

If the fuel pressure regulator and filter have been replaced and you're still having low fuel pressure, you're into a fuel pump replacemnent

I will focus more on the tranny code. Would a leaking tranny oil line cause this issue? I was under the car last night and I saw that the oil cooler lines were leaking and my power steering line. At first I thought it was just the power steering line but the line is on the driver side.

After doing some searching I ran across this from AJxtcman...

"No Power on Heavy Acceleration or 1-2 Shift Concerns - Delays, Slips, Flares, DTC P0731 or P0732 Set (Replace Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Assembly or Lower Control Valve Body Assembly) #01-07-30-009B - (02/06/2002)"

Ranger
12-08-13, 11:43 AM
That fuel pressure is a little low. Do you have enough hose to be able to tape the gauge to your windshield and see how it reacts when you drive and step on the throttle? You could try it in PARK. If it falls way off when you throttle up, then 98eldo is right, you're in the fuel pump business.

Doola36
12-08-13, 11:46 AM
That fuel pressure is a little low. Do you have enough hose to be able to tape the gauge to your windshield and see how it reacts when you drive and step on the throttle? You could try it in PARK. If it falls way off when you throttle up, then 98eldo is right, you're in the fuel pump business.

When i would put it in drive and give it gas it would go up to 40. I had my wife to hold the gauge while I put the car in drive and give it gas.

Ranger
12-08-13, 11:52 AM
That does not sound like a bad fuel pump then.

Doola36
12-08-13, 11:57 AM
That does not sound like a bad fuel pump then.

Ok. So now Im onto looking at the tranny and the best route to go with this project.

stoveguyy
12-08-13, 12:04 PM
It was running "ok" before u changed plugs. So, everything u touched to change plugs is suspect. U took off the coil cassettes. U removed the egr and hose connections. Redo ur steps.

98ville
12-08-13, 12:09 PM
You are doing every thing but the right thing. Others have pointed you in, recheck what you did when you replaced spark plugs . 99% of the time if something happens after you change a part , you caused the problem.

Doola36
12-08-13, 12:17 PM
You are doing every thing but the right thing. Others have pointed you in, recheck what you did when you replaced spark plugs . 99% of the time if something happens after you change a part , you caused the problem.

I did redo my steps.... When I installed the new coil boots i had to remove the same things I removed when i did the spark plugs. And I double checked to make sure everything was nice and tight.

And as for the car running "ok"..It ran smooth on the freeway and around a few blocks but the "Power/Get up and go" wasnt there. So that made me want to do the spark plugs. I did check all my fuses to make sure none were blown. So I rechecked those to make sure they are all seated correctly.

Ok. Im about to go back out and I will let you all know what I find. And thank you all for the help you all are giving!!!!!

98eldo32v
12-08-13, 02:18 PM
Doola,

The pump is done by process of elimination and the fact you connected a pressure gauge. Move on from that. You NEED a fuel pump.

Second the trans leaking spells DOOM. Once these transmissions run low, they wipe out the 3rd clutch housing bushing. DON'T EVEN BOTHER ATTEMPTING TO FIX, FIND ANOTHER UNIT.

Unfortunately, third.

Since that car has been running with LOW volume and LOW fuel pressure, you had the pcm increase the duty cycle to the injector. What that translates to, the injectors were hanging open longer trying to compensate for the low fuel pressure. Therefore dumping extra fuel into the motor in order to keep it running. This extra fuel showed up as all the "sooty" remains in your intake and elsewhere..

The kicker here is the catalytic converter doesn't like extra raw unburned fuel. Your catalytic converter is more than likely clogged from being overheated by the worn fuel pump.

I pray that it is not.......

Doola36
12-08-13, 02:43 PM
I just came back from a test drive after rechecking my steps. I was able to drive the car but I had to baby the gas pedal to keep it from bogging down. The car was able to go thru the gears but no WOT.

So I brought it back to the garage to see if I had any codes and here is what the system came up with.

Rcc b1009 current-EEPROM checksum error
Pcm p0153 current -HO2S Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1
Msm b1860 current -Driver Lumbar Vert Sensor circuit Malfunction
Ipm b1004 history-Keep Alive Memory
Ipc b1004 current-Keep Alive Memory
Amp u1016 history-Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM / Loss of Communications with PCM

So I had the hood up looking around and I noticed one of my fuel lines were spraying fuel out so I stop messing with the car….lol

I looked at the tranny fluid and I did see some either plastic pieces on the dip stick or something. So a tranny is something I will be looking for.

Thanks all for the help!!!

98eldo32v
12-08-13, 03:36 PM
The "service transmission" message should be swapped for "replace transmission".

Doola36
12-08-13, 03:39 PM
The "service transmission" message should be swapped for "replace transmission".

LOL... I have came to terms with that. So Ive been pricing a used tranny.

It did feel good to get the car over 40 mph...:)

98eldo32v
12-08-13, 03:46 PM
I suggest reconnecting the fuel lines and cracking open the exhaust at the flange on the catalytic converter.

See if the car accelerates better with the exhaust "opened" up.

I feel your pump is the problem, but is compounded by a bad transmission now.

Doola36
12-08-13, 04:18 PM
I suggest reconnecting the fuel lines and cracking open the exhaust at the flange on the catalytic converter.

See if the car accelerates better with the exhaust "opened" up.

I feel your pump is the problem, but is compounded by a bad transmission now.

The fuel line isnt disconnected...I believe its a hole in it because it was a mist of fuel that was coming out.

Submariner409
12-08-13, 04:25 PM
You are extremely lucky to be alive.

Doola36
12-08-13, 04:27 PM
You are extremely lucky to be alive.

I know!!!! Thats why I killed the driving. It was a big surprise because I could see how it could be dripping on the exhaust.

My fuel lines.......

166889

166897

Doola36
12-08-13, 07:52 PM
Question.. Is there a easy way that I could fix my fuel lines that are leaking in the above post?

Ranger
12-08-13, 08:39 PM
I can't tell where the leak is, but I strongly suspect that is why you have low fuel pressure and can't accelerate. Don't attempt to repair the fuel line. :tisk: Replace it.

Doola36
12-08-13, 08:48 PM
I can't tell where the leak is, but I strongly suspect that is why you have low fuel pressure and can't accelerate. Don't attempt to repair the fuel line. :tisk: Replace it.

Ok will do. The reason i stated repair because I saw a few threads that ppl repaired them to keep from going to the dealer.

Ranger
12-08-13, 09:01 PM
Anything is possible, but a fuel line leak is not something to take chances with.

This is the result of a leaky fuel rail.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/WBucket/BarbequeTime.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/WBucket/Endgame.jpg

Doola36
12-08-13, 09:17 PM
Wow.....

The leak is where you see the black line holder is at. So is there a special tool or something I need to remove these lines off of the car?

CadillacLuke24
12-09-13, 02:41 PM
Hopefully not personal experience

Ranger
12-09-13, 03:39 PM
No, it was an acquaintance from another Caddy site.

----------


Wow.....

The leak is where you see the black line holder is at. So is there a special tool or something I need to remove these lines off of the car?
Yes, there is a fuel line quick disconnect tool available at most auto parts stores (not very expensive). Be sure to relieve the remaining fuel pressure before opening up any fuel lines.

Submariner409
12-09-13, 04:18 PM
Those thermoplastic fuel lines are heat shrunk onto the metal tubing. The quick disconnects are at the fuel rail end tips - down next to the throttlebody fuel rail/line retainer clip. I think there's a repair kit for those plastic lines, but have never seen one.

98eldo32v
12-09-13, 05:59 PM
Repair kit in the "Help" section.

Look in the fuel/emissions section

Doola36
12-10-13, 12:37 AM
Ok, I think i know how to fix the fuel lines!!!!
So now I would like to know what parts should I get/replace when getting a used transmission?

98eldo32v
12-10-13, 03:29 AM
On the used transmission.......

FIRST.... make sure the left side axle seal DOES NOT have an upside "V" shape clean spot on the housing that the seal sits in.

SECOND.....IF the inner tripot is still in the unit (it usually is, those axles don't come out that easy), shake it for excessive play/movement. Excessive play is bad news. If the tripot is still in the unit, remove it and inspect the surface of the tripot where it enters the transmission. Scoring or discoloration is a sign of wear.

THIRD.....If possibly, note mileage of vehicle and vin to see if any service history is available on the transmission. You don't want to put in a unit with a p0741 or something outrageous.

Most salvage yards don't want you or the transmission coming back, so they are going to go through what's necessary to avoid a problem.

Change axle seals, you may want to change the torque converter seal.

Since the unit is out and you may feel adventurous, removal of the side cover and replacing the main filter, the tcc solenoid might be in order.

Lower scavenger filters should be cleaned/replaced along with the transmission fluid.

MoistCabbage
12-10-13, 03:45 AM
Definitely replace the TCC solenoid.

Doola36
12-18-13, 12:15 PM
After doing some reading and thinking i think Im going to see if I replace the solenoids and the switch in the Valve body (P0731) to see if that will make a different. Yesterday I dropped my the tranny pan and it had stuff in it but the oil looked like it hasnt been changed in sometime. I still need to get the fuel lines and also order the return line for the p/s pump because it is leaking bad.

So far Im thinking positive because if the solenoid and switch doesnt fix it I can install those parts into the used tranny I have lined up close by.

98eldo32v
12-18-13, 07:37 PM
Doola,

Switching the valve body might help but what about the rest of the internal passages in the unit? You have the valve body on the bottom with solenoids and switches.

You have the oil pump and solenoids inside the side cover, if you're not going to get to them all why bother? Even then it's a gamble......

Save yourself the aggravation, swap the trans for a known working one.......

Doola36
12-18-13, 08:17 PM
Doola,

Switching the valve body might help but what about the rest of the internal passages in the unit? You have the valve body on the bottom with solenoids and switches.

You have the oil pump and solenoids inside the side cover, if you're not going to get to them all why bother? Even then it's a gamble......

Save yourself the aggravation, swap the trans for a known working one.......

I see your point, but I prefer to play around with these parts for now because I currently dont have the money for a used tranny and labor. Also I want have that "what if" thought either.

Its not aggravating for me because Im learning something I never tried before.

98eldo32v
12-18-13, 11:51 PM
I understand,

Well my friend, have fun on your 4t80e training. Hopefully it won't be too expensive of a learning lesson.


I have been down the road you are about to travel, but every man has his own path to walk.

Travel safely my friend....

Doola36
12-19-13, 12:14 AM
I understand,

Well my friend, have fun on your 4t80e training. Hopefully it won't be too expensive of a learning lesson.


I have been down the road you are about to travel, but every man has his own path to walk.

Travel safely my friend....

Thanks bro. I did run across a thread you started about your tranny and it was a very good read. It shouldnt be to expensive because if I still have an issue Im just going to put in a used tranny and replace somethings in it and enjoy the ride.

Doola36
01-18-14, 04:12 PM
Ok, Im back at it again....

I would like to know if this cat looks clogged to anyone?

178361

178369

basscatt
01-18-14, 04:20 PM
Ok, Im back at it again....

I would like to know if this cat looks clogged to anyone?
-----------------

178361

178369
---------------------
from the small area that can be seen - NO -

Ranger
01-18-14, 08:39 PM
I'd say no as well.

98eldo32v
01-19-14, 06:03 AM
Start the car with the exhaust undone, as you have in the picture. See if it revs past 2k easily.

Take a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the converter and listen for any rattling sounds

Doola36
01-19-14, 11:36 PM
Start the car with the exhaust undone, as you have in the picture. See if it revs past 2k easily.

Take a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the converter and listen for any rattling sounds

Well I put it back together and I was able to rev past 2k. I need to get a gasket for the flange because I have a exhaust leak from that.

----------

Here's an update....

I replaced the VSS, both shift solenoids, Shaft Position Switch, Auto Trans Oil Pressure Switch and my power steering hoses. And now when I shift it in gear it doesnt show which gear it is in on the dash. When I put it in gear it still reads that the car is in park. Even tho I can put it in drive and drive the car. While driving the car it seems like its in a safe mode or something because it want let me go past like 45 mph. Also when I manually shift I dont feel it down shift when I go from 2nd to 1st. So Im thinking that maybe I need to go back over my install.

Here are the codes that I was able to pull..


C0615 HISTORY Left Front Position Sensor Malfunction
C1248 HISTORY EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On
C1214 HISTORY System Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
B1009 HISTORY EEPROM Checksum Error
P0153 CURRENT Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)...I need replace the Exhaust flange gasket....
B1860 HISTORY lumbar up down sensor failure
B1845 HISTORY Driver Lumbar Down Switch Circuit Malfunction
U1016 HISTORY Loss of Communications with PCM
B1004 HISTORY Keep Alive Memory
B1004 CURRENT Keep Alive Memory

basscatt
01-19-14, 11:58 PM
I believe those "C" codes are preventing 1st gear -

98eldo32v
01-20-14, 12:42 AM
The "c" codes aren't CURRENT.......

Doola36
01-20-14, 02:46 AM
The "c" codes aren't CURRENT.......

No they are not. They are showing history.

Ranger
01-20-14, 10:01 AM
Current or not, I don't think those C codes are relevant to the problem.

Doola36
01-20-14, 12:44 PM
Current or not, I don't think those C codes are relevant to the problem.

I have to agree with you because I went out to read the codes again this morning and they are no longer there. But I still have the issue of when I put the car in gear the dash states that its still in park. So Im thinking that I may have not did something correct when I removed the valve body and replaced the solenoids and the switches. Also when I have the Ebrake on and step on the brake to put it in gear the Ebrake does not release. I had to release it manually.

After doing some reading I think I need to go back and check my shaft position switch to make sure I connected the rod correctly. I did make sure I installed the new plastic piece and connected the rod. but I wasnt for sure about the position of the rod and where it would need to make contact with the shaft position switch.

98eldo32v
01-20-14, 02:06 PM
When you removed the valve body, the internal mode switch has a rod that connects to it and a black retaining clip that you have to be very careful or it snaps into to pieces.

I feel your problem with your gear selector is related to the internal mode switch when you removed the valve body......

Doola36
01-20-14, 04:34 PM
When you removed the valve body, the internal mode switch has a rod that connects to it and a black retaining clip that you have to be very careful or it snaps into to pieces.

I feel your problem with your gear selector is related to the internal mode switch when you removed the valve body......

I installed a new black retaining clip and snapped the rod into the clip. But I wasnt for sure on the switch where the sliding thingy should be positioned......

98eldo32v
01-20-14, 05:09 PM
I forgot how it goes on it's been so long.

The rod goes into the switch and I believe there was some slider mechanism that the rod went through and the end of it looked like a fork or two pieces of metal with a slit in it.

I do remember that clip that was a pain. It was a good thing I had another whole valve body that I had removed from pull a part along with hardware.

Hopefully you sort it out, but you'll be draining the fluid again.

Be careful removing the valve body too many times. The associated gaskets are "reusable" but are wafer thin.

A leak between those gaskets spells trouble.

Good luck

Doola36
01-26-14, 11:09 PM
Question....Do I connect the new black retaining clip and the rod into the sliding piece on the switch? because I connected to a different piece on the valve body. Im trying to make sure I know where the rod connects into.

180689

98eldo32v
01-26-14, 11:23 PM
Take another picture of the slider mechanism, I need a close up or a picture I can zoom in on to tell you how it goes........

----------

One end of the rod has a button head I believe with a 90 degree bend on it.

When I see it close up I'll remember which way to position it......

Doola36
01-27-14, 11:47 PM
picture of the old switch.....

181233

181241

Picture of the new one installed....

181249

98eldo32v
01-28-14, 02:14 AM
I just found my spare valve body.


The button head portion of the lever stays with the valve inside the valve body.

The other end receives the black clip. That rod either attaches to the gear selector pawl or linkage.

I'm going to double check something.........

----------

Ok,

On the switch itself, the part with the hole at one end near the rod, does that slide back and forth?

I can't find my spare one.

I believe you have to push the black clip, the end with the arrow head on it with the hole in the middle of it into that hole. Then the rod goes into the clip in that hole. It's best to insert the clip into the hole 90 degrees away from the rod. Once the rod is installed in the clip, the clip is rotated 90 degrees down to lock into the rod that is secured to the valve in the valve body.

If that part doesn't slide back and forth, then you have to look near the gear selector lever for a hole for that rod to seat into.....

I can't remember it all unless I find my spare switch.

Doola36
02-15-14, 11:55 PM
Ok Finally found the correct way I should have connected the rod...

186265

99Classillac
02-18-14, 12:56 PM
Well the tranny problems... I don't know if you fixed it or not. But, my 04 DTS was having tranny issues once upon a time. But it was because my motor was stalling out and over revving, no power, etc. My motor issue was just a stupid IAC valve. But it wrecked havoc on the car by making all types of tranny codes come up. And the car would jerk into gear, etc. I remember the code you have about the first gear thing come up too. But I focused on the original problem at hand. The motor. And once I fixed the motor, all else with the tranny stopped. I'm not saying you don't have a tranny problem. You just may. But you should focus on the original problem with the motor first. How will you ever know if you even resolved any tranny issues if you car is still sputtering along and not performing correctly? Get the motor right. Then once that is running great, see if any tranny issues persist. And then address those. Just my .2cents.

Doola36
02-19-14, 09:20 PM
Well the tranny problems... I don't know if you fixed it or not. But, my 04 DTS was having tranny issues once upon a time. But it was because my motor was stalling out and over revving, no power, etc. My motor issue was just a stupid IAC valve. But it wrecked havoc on the car by making all types of tranny codes come up. And the car would jerk into gear, etc. I remember the code you have about the first gear thing come up too. But I focused on the original problem at hand. The motor. And once I fixed the motor, all else with the tranny stopped. I'm not saying you don't have a tranny problem. You just may. But you should focus on the original problem with the motor first. How will you ever know if you even resolved any tranny issues if you car is still sputtering along and not performing correctly? Get the motor right. Then once that is running great, see if any tranny issues persist. And then address those. Just my .2cents.

Thanks for the input. I have been focused more on the ENGINE issue than the transmission. After going back over things and clearing the codes I still receive (P0141 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2 and P0300 Misfire with scan tool P0308) So I plan on ordering a coil cassette and replace my O2 sensors and see what happens.

Doola36
02-22-14, 05:39 PM
Ok today I disconnected my exhaust and WOW... The 4.6 is loud...lol But I was able to get my RPMs up to 4k and it would stay there. So Im going to get the CAT replaced next weekend. When I disconnected it before I didnt have it completely disconnected. As for the O2 sensors I found that the O2 fuse was blown.... :(.

Now to my next issue I have a leak on the driver side and Im thinking its brake fluid because its a oily leak. I will take a picture hoping that someone can help me with what im looking at.

Well after taking another look at my leak its my brake lines....:(

naif
02-24-14, 11:47 AM
Better to discover that in the driveway than out on the road.

99Classillac
02-25-14, 04:31 PM
Geez, good thing you found out about the brake line without it finding you out there on the hwy like Naif said. Hopefully the cat replacement will fix your issues. Did you ever get the dash to display the gear you were in?

Doola36
03-15-14, 10:24 PM
Geez, good thing you found out about the brake line without it finding you out there on the hwy like Naif said. Hopefully the cat replacement will fix your issues. Did you ever get the dash to display the gear you were in?

No, I havent attempted that fix yet. But it is still on my to do list.

----------

Ok, today I replaced my power steering pump and pulley and my front ignition coil pack. Well the pump and pulley went well but Im still getting a P0300(misfire code). With my code reader I get P0308. So after researching I exchanged the fuel injector next to it to see if it could be the injector. But the error code did not get me any other code besides the P0308.

So now I guess its time for me to do a compression check on the cylinder. After this I guess its time for me to take it to the mechanic because Im all out of ideals.

Doola36
03-16-14, 02:35 PM
Well before I went to do a compression test I swapped my known good one with the new one and I got a misfire on cylinder number one. So Im going to return the new one and get a delphi from rockauto.

99Classillac
03-18-14, 06:39 AM
You get the ignition coil packs all figured out and to stop misfiring?

Doola36
03-22-14, 04:37 PM
You get the ignition coil packs all figured out and to stop misfiring?

Yup, I picked up one from the junk yard today.... And for only $30.xx. Im so happy about that. Now Im about to tackle the brake line.

98eldo32v
03-22-14, 06:17 PM
Misfiring solved.....

It's all downhill from here........

Doola36
03-23-14, 04:26 PM
Ok, Just finish connecting the rod correctly on the valve body... Everything went well!!!!!! But while I was putting the rear air pump back on I noticed that my rear cam cover is leaking. So next week I will try an tackle that, getting a CAT installed and changing the anti freeze.

Slowly but surely she's coming a long.....:)

Doola36
03-28-14, 06:01 PM
Update: Finally got a CAT installed today and WOW. The caddy really moves!!! Tomorrow I will be changing the valve cover gaskets and the antifreeze. The tranny shifts really smooth and I dont feel any slipping.

Doola36
04-13-14, 01:55 AM
Final Update: The non acceleration issue was due to a clogged cat and my miss was due to having bad coil cassettes.... After installing those parts I also had to change the up stream 02 sensors. I havent had any transmission issues and i have put over 1k miles on it since I changed the parts on the valve body. So now the caddy runs like a champ. I WOT it almost everyday....lol And learning about putting it in 2nd gear has been a very cool experience too.

****I would like to thank everyone who commented in this thread. Without you all the caddy would still be sitting in the garage or I would have had to take it to a mechanic.

So far I have did the following repairs: Spark plugs/Boots, both coil cassettes, rubber plenum, crankshaft sensors, 02 sensors, Cat Convertor, oil pressure switch, control solenoids for the tranny, brake line, Tranny oil pressure switch, Tranny speed sensor, Intake gasket, p/s pump and both hoses, Fuel lines, T-stat, valve cover gasket, FPR and upper/lower radiator hoses and a set of new tires......Cleaned the TB and Intake!!!!!!

I still need to fix my AC issue but other than that Im enjoying the ride.

This has been the funniest caddy I have ever owned. Im hoping I can get a good 1.5 yrs out of it and i will be a happy camper.

Submariner409
04-13-14, 09:27 AM
Thanks for the update. Lotsa time and bucks. Pat the car every night ..............

Doola36
04-13-14, 10:22 AM
Thanks for the update. Lotsa time and bucks. Pat the car every night ..............

Every morning when I look at it I do feel a great sense of accomplishment. I forgot to add to my list the rear shocks. After reading on CF about the passive shocks I purchased a pair of Monroe shocks and is one happy camper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!