: What could the problem be????



cadillac6
05-12-05, 03:24 PM
Ok so I dont know what the problem could be but everyday in the morning I go to start my car when its cold it doesnt crank. I do this about six times

crank....stop
crank....stop
crank...stop
crank...almost fires...stop
crank...almost fires...stop
crank...finally fires!

It gets embarrassing but I dont know what the problem could be? I thought it was maybe I need new plugs and wires? and then im starting to think maybe its a clogged fuel injector? I dont know what the problem could be? for you experts out there can you give me some advice so I dont pay for something I dont need to. By the way my car is a 97 cadillac deville concours. And has about 110,000 miles on it and has never had a tune up. PLEASE HELP! :crying2:

Spyder
05-12-05, 03:50 PM
Search through the forums...seems to be a common enough problem...but as I've not yet had it happen, I havn't read those posts...you'll find your answer on here though. Good luck!!!

cadillac6
05-12-05, 05:29 PM
I dont know what to look it up as? I just came back from Auto Zone and they did the free diagnostic check and they said that it could be my intake system? i will post the OBDII codes later but in the meantime if your reading....HELP!!!! oh and by the way it doesnt seem to want to start when its cold but the rest of the day it seems to start up fine? :bonkers:

davesdeville
05-12-05, 06:29 PM
You should check the fuel pressure regulator. It's there on the fuel rail. Pull the vacuum line off and see if any gas leaks out. If so you need a new one.

cadillac6
05-13-05, 05:56 PM
Ok so I got my codes checked at auto zone and these are the codes that it pulled I just want to know if maybe its related to my problem?


History DTC P0113
History DTC P0135
History DTC P0141
History DTC P0147
History DTC P0155
History DTC P0603
Current DTC P1139

I dont know if this will shed any light on why my car wont start right up in when its cold??? SOMEONE HELP! :hmm:

Dadillac
05-13-05, 06:02 PM
Although I am not a fuel injection expert, it sounds as if, your fuel lines are losing preseure overnight. On your next morning start up, do the unthinkable, give the gas pedal a few pumps. If the car starts faster, your fuel pressure is bleeding off.

Don

eldorado1
05-13-05, 06:49 PM
Although I am not a fuel injection expert, it sounds as if, your fuel lines are losing preseure overnight. On your next morning start up, do the unthinkable, give the gas pedal a few pumps. If the car starts faster, your fuel pressure is bleeding off.

Don

:suspect:

That doesn't work on an FI car. You might even trigger it into "flood clear" mode, and then it'll take forever to start, because it'll cut power to the injectors.

For the problem, I don't know exactly how the fuel system is wired, but if it's like most other GM cars, it may be a faulty fuel pump relay. Then you would have to crank it until you had more than 5psi oil pressure for the "backup" oil pressure switch to close and energize the fuel pump.

Second guess would be a leaking injector, or bad FPR.

Ranger
05-13-05, 08:16 PM
If everything is working correctly I am of the understanding that the pump will pressurize the system quite quickly even if it has bled down. The fuel pump relay theory sounds like the most logical.

eldorado1
05-13-05, 08:42 PM
it may be a faulty fuel pump relay.

I guess I should mention how to test for this, eh? In the morning, just turn the key to run (don't start), and listen for the fuel pump to turn on for 2-5 seconds or so. If that doesn't happen, that's where the problem lies.

mcowden
05-13-05, 10:05 PM
History DTC P0113 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage - I don't know what would cause this, but you should check the wiring for the IAT sensor and make sure the device is intact. If the code sticks around or shows as current, replace the IAT sensor. It's an inexpensive part and very easy to replace. It could be contributing to the problems you're having now.

History DTC P0135 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1 - This probably needs to be replaced. It's the sensor in the exhaust manifold for the rear bank of cylinders. Can be hard to access on some cars, but I was able to change mine with a long extension. Plan on $70 if you do it yourself and borrow an O2 sensor socket.

History DTC P0141 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2 - This probably also needs to be replaced. It's the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter. The part number is different from the previous sensor. AutoZone calls it a "rear" sensor. Again, about $70 if you do it yourself.

History DTC P0147 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 3 - Well, you're 3 for 4 so far. This is another bad sensor most likely. This one is behind the catalytic converter and is the same part number as the one before it (the P0141 sensor at B1S2). Another $70.

History DTC P0155 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 3 - And now you're batting 1.000. All 4 sensors are showing as bad. This is the one in the exhaust manifold for the frontmost cylinder bank. It is easily accessible from below the car just behind the radiator support. Another $70.

History DTC P0603 - Control Module Long Term Memory Reset - This is nothing to worry about. It just means the battery was disconnected for about 30 seconds. It will go away and it is not contributing to your current problems in all likelihood..

Current DTC P1139 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insuff. Switching Bank 1 Sensor 2 - This is another code pointing to the oxygen sensor just in front of the catalytic converter.

So, from all this, it's possible you have 4 bad oxygen sensors. They wouldn't contribute to starting problems unless the car was at full operating temperature, which is very unlikely. The car may always start in open loop operation anyway, so even then they may not play a role. Whoever had it before you just didn't ever change them most likely, and after 110,000 miles, they are due to be replaced. It will run much better, your mileage will go up, and you will probably pass an emissions test when they're done. As it stands right now, it's probably running rich and spewing out huge CO and HC emissions numbers.

The Intake Air Temperature Sensor could possibly lead to starting problems if it's providing data that's WAY off. From the code, it sounds like that's possible. It will run correctly when that and the O2 sensors are replaced, so I would plan on that.

On top of that, if the car has not been tuned up in 110,000 miles, it's probably overdue for plugs and wires. My advice is to stick with the AC-Delco plugs and wires, but others have differing opinions since they are more expensive.

The starting problem, though, I have to agree with the others. It does sound like a leaking fuel pressure regulator. There are no codes for that since it's not an electronic component. You just have to remove the vacuum line and look for gas. If you see gas, replace the FPR. If the FPR looks good, replace the other stuff above and see what you get. Those things need to be taken care of either way.

Hopefully that gets you somewhere. Let us know what you do and how it turns out. Good luck!