I'll be doing some MAJOR work in my Car soon, not all in 1 day, thank God!!

http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permgasketmakers.html

I wonder if I can use PERMATEX® ULTRA COPPER® Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker as a "gasket replacement" element for the work below and how many tubes would do it? If not, please advice!!!!!!!

Should I stop being cheap and buy ALL the gaskets? Do I still need sealers even if I bought them?


Work:

#1. Valve cover gaskets - oil going into sparkplugs.
I have the Fel-Pro permadry gaskets, but perhaps I can re-inforce them? Any do's and dont's?

#2. Transmission oil filter replacement & oil seal - oil comming out of shift switch.
I have the pan gaskets that come with the FRAM FT-1149 Kit. Do I put some Gasket Maker here? Is it Either/Or?
#4. Intake plenum removal - to get to thermostat

#5. Thermostat housing replacement - may be pluged

#6. Water pump replacement - the thing broke
Will get Silicone Grease GM# 12345579 (on water pump seal ring) as well.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

Finally, and probably one of the most important questions.., the ambient temp here in NYC is about 55-65 degF! How long would it take for any of this work to cure, over 48hrs?

Id really only use a sealer on the waterpump and possibly some areas on the valve covers. Just watch to see if there are any spots that seem thin or prone to leaking. Spread some on the transmission oil pan's gasket to keep it up there while you put the pan back on. The gasket maker if you include the gasket- must set when its bonded to the surface so you cant just let it dry first and then put the part into place. Put it on with the gasket and be done with it.

Reguardless: BUY ALL THE GASKETS! :bouncy: :D

And your service manual should tell you if sealant is needed.

btw.. Are you having oil leak into the sparkplugs or is there visible oil leaking on the outside of the cover?

In general, don't be cheap unless you enjoy fixing things twice. Do it once, do it right. Buy the gaskets.

#1 just use the rubber gaskets. That's all the seal you need until they dry out because of their environment. Nothing you can do about that.

#2 Tranny pan gasket is all you need. Clean the surfaces off and torque the bolts properly (this applies to any gasketed surface and is the most important factor). Never had the shift switch out. If it's an o-ring, replace it.

#4 Intake plenum: Already has rubber gaskets. No need to replace unless they are damaged. Spread a light coating of motor oil with your finger to keep them moist.

#5 & 6 If you're using gaskets, don't use RTV, and vice versa. You end up with too much material in there and screw up your torque specs. More is less in this case. If the manual specifies RTV, then use that.

The Permatex tube will tell you how long it takes to cure. Usually 12-14 hrs. Sometimes 24hrs.

Great advice guys!!

I'm just having the oil in the sparkplugs leak, it doesnt seem too big yet! No other oil leaks other than, what it seems to be, an oil leak from the front crankshaft seal! Hope the whole oil pump isn't leaking!!!!!!!

Hey.., I have another issue! There is a choice between A1 Cardone water pumps!

https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,CADILLAC,1998

There's an A1 Cardone 1st design reman 571502, and an A1 Cardone 2nd design reman 58548. The 1st design reman seems to have more robust bearings, but my local autoparts claims the designs are physically different and a 1st design will not "FIT" on my "2nd design" 98 Catera? Is that true? I thought the only redisign was stronger bearings?

My VIN # W06VR52R1WR162536.

Ok here I have them side by side!

A1 Cardone 571502 1st design remanufactured:
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/Detail.html?571502.jpg
Notice the bigger bearings, thicker core & larger propeller, the overall shape is identical to the "A1 Cardone 58548 2nd design below.

A1 Cardone 58548 2nd design remanufactured:
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/Detail.html?58548.jpg
Notice the smaller core shaft, smaller bearing case = "small beveled surface towards the base on the core cover" & cheap flimsy looking propeller!!!

Yes there was a change with the waterpump. I unfortunatly dont know which one is right though for your application. Give the vin to a cadillac dealer and they might be able to tell you for sure. Or trust the parts guys.

Every time I ask something to the cadillac dealer they just say, "bring it in and lets see what you got" hahah..!! as if I don't know they're going to charge me for staring at it!

As far as my local auto parts... hehehehe.. they love to sell me stuff!! Everytime I go I have to pick up the parts at a different place just to find out it's the wrong thing alltogether!!

Yes!! I wished life was much easier!!!!!!

You know.. .once you take off the waterpump then you'll find out what you're really working with. Heh ...

I know! Im just trying to lure in real insight into the issue without having to do that type of legwork first!! Hate to come to the test unprepared you know!!

In fairness, the latest catera has the second WP design look on all of the offered water pumps! That also goes for the Saturn L, LW and VUE series! So.., I'm more inclined to go for the pricier ACDelco 2nd design offered for the catera! I just wondered "WHY" exactly the parts weren't interchangeable! GM doesnt lend itself with those kinds of explanations!! Did the block bolt holes or pump apperture change in diameter or location.. Does the faning out pattern / pressure of the watter make other things fail i.e., the heater control valve... What???

I called Cardone and they stated that the only difference between them was the center core and bearings, but did not comment on performance in the car!

Ok, This may clear it up!

http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/Pumps/Protech/Tech_Bulletins/pt85-58.asp

Here Cardone says why the original 1st design was a bad design since its bearing was a double barrel type held together by a clip. Once the clip got worn or undone the whole thing would go bust. GM then redesigned the pump, 2nd design.., with a single barrel bearing that didn't need the clip but yet had a smaller single barrel bearing design!

What Cardone did was to use GM's redesigned bearing, single barrel CONCEPT..!, but Cardone used the idea into the older 1st design water pump casing allowing them to use the original space for a "BIGGER SINGLE BEARING" than GM's 2nd design bearing, and that's why Cardone's 1st design water pump is still being sold much pricier than Cardones / GM compliant 2nd design pump since its bearing should last longer than the 2nd GM design.

Hehehe, hope I didnt loose anybody!! I almost lost myslef in that explanation..!! 8-)!!


Does Anyone has a different interpretation to what's said on that link?

Sorry this is the link:

http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/Pumps/Protech/Tech_Bulletins/pt85-58.asp

Did a little research on the RTV and found that some RTV's
use "acetic acid" as perhaps a solvent..?, and it evaporates when
curing, "vinegar smelling RTV". The acid reacts with silicone "O"
rings causing "acid-induced depolymerization" where the molecular
structure of the "O" ring is weakened and the "O" ring looses its
sealing cualities, becomes more brittle.

The solution, when RTV is recomended, is to use RTV that is "safe for
oxygen sensors" as it gives off no corrosive gasses as it cures. This
RTV is marketed as "Sensor-safe, low odor, non-corrosive".

That being said, as I've been told here, using RTV in conjunction with gaskets
may mess up torqueing specs. It is good to use only when clearly
apparent gasket weak points need reinforcemnt!

Very interesting topic!! Thought I would share this!!! Thanks to all contributing!!!