: Back up on blocks for winter work



heavymetals
10-20-13, 02:28 PM
Had a bunch of custom exhaust work done and the first thing the guy said when he put it up on the rack is,"Get rid of that header wrapping!".

So, the exhaust work is done and works great, but I have to disassemble the exhaust and strip the headers, then send them off for Hot Jet coating.

Also, have a "Fast Lane" super duper alternator to install as the short drives aren't cutting it with the computer and upgraded stereo.

In the meantime I got a convertor to adapt the OEM radio to an optical sound feed I am gonna hook up.

If time allows, may turn attention to the fuel delivery system as I have a bunch of parts I have been collecting for it.

rand49er
10-20-13, 08:27 PM
You need a gf.

philistine
10-20-13, 08:57 PM
So odd, I'm taking mine off the "blocks" to drive for the winter. My motivation is dwindling as I put it back together, every bolt I turn seems to be a huge effort. I'm exhausted, largely from doing the fuel system.

So what's the big plans for the winter...give the list.

FuzzyLogic
10-20-13, 09:07 PM
So odd, I'm taking mine off the "blocks" to drive for the winter. My motivation is dwindling as I put it back together, every bolt I turn seems to be a huge effort. I'm exhausted, largely from doing the fuel system.

I know how that feels. It's fun to dig into stuff and make it better...but not so much fun reassembling it. Beer + music and get into the zone! The DANGER ZONE!

http://glueimg.s3.amazonaws.com/stickers/huge/fx/archer_spy_school_danger_zone.png

heavymetals
10-20-13, 10:02 PM
So odd, I'm taking mine off the "blocks" to drive for the winter. My motivation is dwindling as I put it back together, every bolt I turn seems to be a huge effort. I'm exhausted, largely from doing the fuel system.

So what's the big plans for the winter...give the list.

List is in the post.

Funny, but winter is where you live (for the most part).

I drive Mr. Vette for the next 6 months (or I wouldn't drive it at all, the V is that much fun).

----------


You need a gf.

At least with this I don't feel bad locking it in the garage.........lol

fweasel
10-20-13, 10:31 PM
So odd, I'm taking mine off the "blocks" to drive for the winter. Wait, they still call it Winter down there? That's a cruel joke.


At least with this this I don't feel bad locking it in the garage.........lol
Well that, and it's not illegal. :lol:

heavymetals
10-21-13, 02:28 PM
This should be a familiar sight to anyone who mods. lol

I got the "Race Ramps" from a guy who didn't need them at a very good price.

I thought that they must be a joke as they weigh close to nothing, but they work and store very well.

philistine
10-21-13, 03:16 PM
I have the exact same set +1 for RaceRamps

pato
10-21-13, 08:08 PM
You live in southern california and you put the V away for winter?! :histeric:

jmargo
10-21-13, 09:17 PM
You drive up on those things ? Looks scary...

heavymetals
10-24-13, 12:54 PM
Exhaust is out, headers are next.

Then ship off to get Hot Jet Coated.

Alternator install next while waiting for stuff to come back.

heavymetals
10-27-13, 07:19 PM
Spent the day working on getting the alternator out.


The ALRADCO doesn't give much room, but I think if I take the power steering pump out I have enough clearance.

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You live in southern california and you put the V away for winter?! :histeric:

I have to drive Mr. Vette sometime........

heavymetals
10-30-13, 12:06 PM
Ok, the alternator is out.

Got ready to install the new one and noticed the pulleys are different sizes.

Stopped work and placed a call.

Mechman says to use the alternator as received (smaller pulley) as the only way to improve the low RPM output was to use a smaller pulley.

Have to get a shorter belt now.

jmargo
10-30-13, 12:51 PM
So how do you get the car on those race ramps ?

heavymetals
10-30-13, 01:04 PM
So how do you get the car on those race ramps ?

For the front, I used two jacks and the oem jacking points.

Get it up high enough after chocking the rear wheels and install the ramps.

For the rear, two jacks (one each) underneath the wheel spring seats as the oem jacking points will not let me jack it up high enough.

FYI I feel safer under the car now then I ever did with jack stands.

FuzzyLogic
10-30-13, 05:51 PM
If you find a shorter belt, could you identify the part number?

jmargo
10-30-13, 11:54 PM
For the front, I used two jacks and the oem jacking points.

Get it up high enough after chocking the rear wheels and install the ramps.

For the rear, two jacks (one each) underneath the wheel spring seats as the oem jacking points will not let me jack it up high enough.

FYI I feel safer under the car now then I ever did with jack stands.

Cool, what size/height are they ?

heavymetals
10-31-13, 11:38 AM
Cool, what size/height are they ?

They have different ones available, the ones I use are 10" high.

http://www.raceramps.com/car-display-ramps.aspx

jmargo
10-31-13, 01:19 PM
Are you happy with the 10" or would the 12" be better ?

Sorry for the Hijack...

heavymetals
10-31-13, 02:37 PM
Are you happy with the 10" or would the 12" be better ?

Sorry for the Hijack...

I bought them used so I didn't get a choice in height.

The 10" gives me plenty of room (even with the car lowered 1") to roll around on my Bone creeper.

http://www.bonecreeper.com

----------

Here is a good one.

MECHMAN implies that you need to add wires to the high output alternator.

A redundant hot and ground of 1 gauge.

That is BIG PHUCKING WIRE!

I decided to use 4 gauge as that is about all I can deal with, given the limited space.

heavymetals
11-01-13, 03:21 PM
After reconsideration, I went back to the smaller pulley which came mounted on the replacement.

I had some time to think about it and if that is what MECHMAN recommends, then I will use it.

I ordered some super flex 1 gauge in red and black.

I just hope it doesn't turn the battery into an IED.

philistine
11-01-13, 04:14 PM
How do you crimp 1awg wire, links?

heavymetals
11-01-13, 04:29 PM
How do you crimp 1awg wire, links?

Greenlee makes the best.

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Strippers-Cutters-Crimpers-Combo-Tools-Crimping-Tools/Greenlee/K05-1SPGL/product.aspx?zpid=354297

(https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Strippers-Cutters-Crimpers-Combo-Tools-Crimping-Tools/Greenlee/K05-1SPGL/product.aspx?zpid=354297)There are others:

http://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Battery-Terminal-Crimper-Crimping/dp/B00CUQ042Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_7

philistine
11-01-13, 11:02 PM
I'm interested how you install and wire this. Do you plan to provide pics?

rjoffe
11-05-13, 11:24 AM
Quickcable is my recommendation for this stuff.

Additionally many batterys plus stores carry crimp ends, and have a crimper in store for use.

If not, find a shop that works on electric fork lifts, they should be able to help out.

You can also do a solder bath, but that is a PITA.

heavymetals
11-05-13, 12:11 PM
Wire is high flex:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z0Z4ZW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Red & black with diameters about the size of a little finger.

I ordered a crimper, hydraulic type:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUQ042Q/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for crimps, I am using the copper type with a long barrel like these: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Battery-Tubular-Terminals-Package/dp/B00030CYD8/ref=pd_sim_hi_27

S (http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Battery-Tubular-Terminals-Package/dp/B00030CYD8/ref=pd_sim_hi_27)o, it ended up costing about $150.00 more for parts plus the approximate $500.00 (for the alternator) to install the thing properly.

heavymetals
11-05-13, 02:41 PM
Here are some pics:

Mantech alternator mounted with power steering pump moved (CAI removed).

Alternator mounted.

Rear of alternator (notice the 0 gauge terminal)

Wire, with dime for comparison of diameters (big huh!).

rjoffe
11-05-13, 02:59 PM
Heavy,

Just for comparison, here are the same parts I have used before:

Crimper : http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=535
Cable :http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=103
(http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=103#details)Lugs: http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=319
(http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=319)
Or you can order custom made lengths with the ends you want:
http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=111
(http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=111)

heavymetals
11-05-13, 03:08 PM
Good stuff.

I had Greenlee stuff where I used to work, and access to the best wire and materials.

No more since I retired, now out of my own pocket.

I still had to order heat shielding for the cables.

Also, FYI you don't want to use rubber insulation under a hood as it bakes out and cracks worse then some of the PVC stuff.

rjoffe
11-05-13, 05:27 PM
I've had that quickcable welding wire under hood for many years, without any real damage. It's not real rubber :) Still flexes like new.

I've had quite a bit of experience with those quickcable pieces in a previous life, many thousands of connections, and never a failure, under some rough racing conditions.

sorry for the thread jack, just other options for those looking.

heavymetals
11-05-13, 05:37 PM
Good info, it is surprising how this is overlooked so often.

I don't mind a threadjack if it is to add any good info.

rjoffe
11-05-13, 05:59 PM
With all the grounding issues V1's have had, we should not be overlooking anything :)

heavymetals
11-05-13, 06:04 PM
With all the grounding issues V1's have had, we should not be overlooking anything :)

It is a disease the C5's have as well.

philistine
11-05-13, 07:08 PM
Can you be specific on the grounding issues? If you have some plans to run a bigger ground or 'big 3' I'm all ears.

heavymetals
11-05-13, 08:54 PM
Can you be specific on the grounding issues? If you have some plans to run a bigger ground or 'big 3' I'm all ears.

Seems like a lifetime ago…….

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/150519-damn-high-oil-temp-alarms-here.html

heavymetals
11-07-13, 12:24 PM
Revisited the wire:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z0Z4ZW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=viglink121836-20

Read the "fine print".

Copper clad aluminum.

No wonder it is high flex.

Ordered solid copper at a 30% difference (up charge) in price.

I am doing this ONCE and that is it.

rjoffe
11-07-13, 01:08 PM
Tricky fine print.

What's the new source ?

heavymetals
11-07-13, 01:13 PM
Tricky fine print.

What's the new source ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181244975861&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

rjoffe
11-07-13, 09:35 PM
That looks like decent stuff, let us know when you get it

philistine
11-07-13, 10:44 PM
:food-snacking:...wanna see how you install it.

FuzzyLogic
11-07-13, 11:02 PM
This is what I have, but I won't be installing it until I pull the motor:

30' Red and Black Royal Excelene 1/0 AWG cable (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181244975861?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

1/0 AWG Tinned Copper Cable Lugs (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261235539151?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

heavymetals
11-13-13, 04:06 PM
Headers came back from Hot Jet Coat.

BITCHIN.

philistine
11-13-13, 04:40 PM
How does that compare to wrapped headers with the typical DEI paint treatment?

heavymetals
11-13-13, 04:49 PM
How does that compare to wrapped headers with the typical DEI paint treatment?

The reason I got them Hot Jet Coated was when I went to the exhaust shop the owner just about booted me in the ass for wrapping them, and said so.

Then he showed me the error of my ways.

A set of headers that had been wrapped and were rotted through because they got brittle from the heat and whatever moisture gets trapped (condensation) even with stainless headers (such as the B&B).

I opted for the high temp coating as I run an S/C.

fweasel
11-14-13, 12:04 AM
They look like ass. Send them to me, I'll recycle them for you.

heavymetals
11-15-13, 06:38 PM
Wire showed up, here are pics of the cables I fabled that will go from the alternator to the battery.

Also, the isolation mounts for the X pipe were separated so I had to replace those also.

Found a beefier one on Ebay.

Tag is specs on the new alternator.

philistine
11-15-13, 07:12 PM
That shrink tubing looks like its the kind that doesn't have the sealant inside that makes it water tight. What kind did you use? btw what's an x-pipe? exhaust?

heavymetals
11-15-13, 07:49 PM
The shrink is non sealant type I got a while ago.

X pipe is the exhaust.

I use that instead of a resonator.

rjoffe
11-15-13, 08:32 PM
<threadjack>

Heavy, saw this, and for some reason instantly thought of you:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/920064946/oscilloscope-watch
(http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/920064946/oscilloscope-watch)
</threadjack>

heavymetals
11-15-13, 09:56 PM
You would be surprised at the stuff I was involved with back in the early 90's.

rjoffe
11-16-13, 04:27 PM
That was about the last time I needed a scope :)

heavymetals
11-19-13, 06:18 PM
Here are pics of the redundant alternator cables with heat wrap & installed.

I added a "star" washer to the bolt for ground (used alternator mounting bolt).

philistine
11-19-13, 07:19 PM
What size/grade wire did you end up going with? link plz :)

heavymetals
11-19-13, 08:58 PM
What size/grade wire did you end up going with? link plz :)

Refer to post #38.

heavymetals
11-23-13, 08:41 PM
Here are pics of the headers reinstalled showing off the hot jet coat and the wires run to the battery.

Those are a bitch to work with.

heavymetals
12-05-13, 12:41 PM
Just an update FWIW.

IT IS TOO GD COLD!

I will not work or lay on my back on a creeper in a cold garage.

Forget it. I will wait till it warms up a little.

I have heaters, but I just am not gonna go throughout the trouble.

I have beer also. That I will go through the trouble for.

heavymetals
12-16-13, 03:35 PM
PROGRESS!

Exhaust is reinstalled, coil pacs and wiring installed.

Eat your hearts out, it is 80 deg F here so the garage is perfect to work in.

rjoffe
12-16-13, 06:36 PM
Urg, this is what I have:


168945

thebigjimsho
12-17-13, 01:26 AM
I was just changing my oil in 15 degree weather. Grow a pair!

rjoffe
12-17-13, 08:52 AM
Jim,

Wait till we're old like Heavy. We may want to wait for that nice warm garage :)

Nothing against old age Heavy, we're all on the way there :)

Ron

heavymetals
12-17-13, 06:48 PM
Got it "done" and started it up.

Voltage at idle on the dic is 14.6.

Car sounded like crap until the lifters pumped up.

Here is what it looks like with the redundant alternator wiring to the battery.

There is enough thread on the bolt to accommodate the terminal so I lucked out on that.

heavymetals
12-18-13, 02:48 PM
Getting close to the "finish" line with this part of the project (this car is a project).

Had to order o2 extensions for the rear o2's as the new cats are further back.

The car does pass sniff test and the #'s are in the mud. WHOO HOO!

The unexpected plus was that they tucked the cats up higher so they don't hit the speed bumps.

philistine
12-18-13, 09:00 PM
I'm surprised you didn't cut/solder extension wires on the existing O2 sensors. I did that on mine and used used Raychem heatshrink on the splices and wrapped it with high temp flex loom.

Not familiar with your battery and can't clearly see how your wires are connected in the pics. When you say there was enough thread on the terminal, where are you connecting it? I say this because they make battery terminals that accommodate additional ring terminals such as the one from Racetronix - GMBT-B (http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=GMBT-B&eq=&Tp=)

169538

heavymetals
12-19-13, 01:05 PM
I'm surprised you didn't cut/solder extension wires on the existing O2 sensors. I did that on mine and used used Raychem heatshrink on the splices and wrapped it with high temp flex loom.

Not familiar with your battery and can't clearly see how your wires are connected in the pics. When you say there was enough thread on the terminal, where are you connecting it? I say this because they make battery terminals that accommodate additional ring terminals such as the one from Racetronix - GMBT-B (http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=GMBT-B&eq=&Tp=)



I would rather buy extensions then fart around extending existing wiring.

As for the terminals, the ones you show (actually any) would push the battery terminal out to far for my liking.

The battery side terminals stick out over an inch as they are also posts.

I already killed the battery a few times sitting in the car zoning out on a few dozen tunes or a movie, so I may opt for a bigger battery.

heavymetals
12-24-13, 02:30 PM
Update:

Rear O2 extensions are in, but need to be secured.

Changed the oil & filter while I was underneath the car.

I guess I will take it off the blocks this week.

Had success running the OEM radio/nav through the 5.1 system.

Waiting for parts to finish that.

Next project on this will probably be fuel system related, delivery and pressure monitoring.

heavymetals
01-12-14, 04:42 PM
UPDATE:

Grabbed the audio feed to the BOSE amplifier and found they are differential.

Breadboarded a chip and it converts the differential signal to single ended and it sounds GREAT.

The big problem is now volume control as the OEM radio controls volume via class II to the Bose amp.

What a funky way to do things.

ctsv247
01-12-14, 05:43 PM
Good info on the smaller alternator pulley. Any idea what size it is?

Nice car!

heavymetals
01-12-14, 05:54 PM
Good info on the smaller alternator pulley. Any idea what size it is?

Nice car!

Thanks!

I like it, the V is a hoot.

After a long conversation with MECHMAN, the smaller pulley really helps in traffic.

I found a Gatorback that was smaller with no problem, so the belt wasn't an issue, but also wasn't cheap.

I think the pulley is about 3/8" - 1/2" smaller OD.