: 2001 Deville. Can't start after reinstalling engine



mjbrome
10-12-13, 11:30 PM
Hi new to the site. I bought a 2001 101k Deville this spring with known bad head gaskets. Dropped the cradle and installed Carroll's head studs, felpro gaskets, new water pump, rebuilt alternator and starter, and new plugs and wires.

Got everything hooked back up finally and won't start. Turn key and headlights and fuel pump come on and won't shut off by key. Lights on dash come up normal and kill when trying to start to send more juice to starter. Battery charged showing 11.6v on dash computer. No clicking from starter and doesn't engage at all, doesn't turn over. Again you can hear the fuel pump turn on with the key but doesn't shut off until battery is unhooked and you can hear the regulator hissing too and lights are on. Checked fuses and the relays sound like they are working; even swapped a couple.

Currently finding stuff to do with ecu and psm. Maybe neutral saftey switch? Tried in a few different gears to see I I hooked that up wrong...

Thanks in advance!!

MoistCabbage
10-12-13, 11:51 PM
:welcome:

Before looking for any other problems, charge and test the battery, or use a known good one. 11.6 is beyond dead.

mjbrome
10-13-13, 12:18 AM
Battery less than a year old and jumped it directly to side posts.

MoistCabbage
10-13-13, 01:58 AM
If it's only putting out 11.6 volts, it's either dead or defective.

...Or, there's a cable/ground problem.

Swap in a known good battery and see what happens.

Submariner409
10-13-13, 11:51 AM
Battery for starters .........

Ranger
10-13-13, 01:23 PM
Battery less than a year old.
Irrelevant. I've had batteries fail in 6 months. Even had 2 dead ones right off the shelf. Not real common, but just proves the point that age alone doesn't mean much.

mjbrome
10-13-13, 03:36 PM
Ok swapped battery out of daily driver suburban. Still nothing/ the same thing happens. Car battery started the big 8.1 no problem and did not charge prirror. Noticed today when I shift to a different gear that the gear indicator doesn't light up at all. In park or when I move it.

Thanks again for all the help. Hope we can figure this out.

98eldo32v
10-13-13, 05:22 PM
Check ground at right side frame rail to cylinder head near alternator

mjbrome
10-13-13, 06:30 PM
Check ground at right side frame rail to cylinder head near alternator

I think that's good. Even took a jumper cord from engine to chasis with no luck.

Ranger
10-13-13, 08:31 PM
Where any of the symptoms mentioned in post #1 present when you bought the car or is this all new since the reinstall?

PaleAle
10-13-13, 09:19 PM
If you disassembled the under hood fuse box when you dropped the cradle, make sure those 7mm bolts in there are tight otherwise you won't have the connections you need to start it.

mjbrome
10-13-13, 10:15 PM
Got it! I hooked up the starter wrong. Put the tiny wire on the back of starter itself...wrong... Still didn't crank under the key but did when we removed the starter relay and jumped it.

Finally found a loose wire. Ground wire for something. Located under transmission main harness. Three eyelets total not two like I had thought. Hooked it up while key was on and pump shut off and gear indicator came on. Oh and the shifter wouldn't lock in park either before...

Started right up but sounded like a diesel and blowing a lot of white smoke. Smoke subsided but was still knocking. Looked at dash and it said "low oil pressure shut engine off" or something like that so I did. After a little more research found out the the oil pump spins from the pressure on the harmonic balancer. Tightened that up real tight and knocking went away after about ten seconds. (Will have to get an impact on it before road worthy.)

Have a few more things to finish up but pretty much there! Thanks for all the help!

Ranger
10-14-13, 10:28 AM
An impact may not provide enough torque. I forget the exact torque angle setting, but it is VERY tight and VERY critical.

EDIT:
Just checked the FSM.
37 lb ft then 120 degrees.

arctic_man
10-14-13, 03:09 PM
An impact may not provide enough torque. I forget the exact torque angle setting, but it is VERY tight and VERY critical.

EDIT:
Just checked the FSM.
37 lb ft then 120 degrees.

I used an impact on mine, but make sure you find an impact with an adjustable torque setting. Mine didn't, so I went until it stopped and got lucky.

mjbrome
10-14-13, 03:20 PM
An impact may not provide enough torque. I forget the exact torque angle setting, but it is VERY tight and VERY critical.

EDIT:
Just checked the FSM.
37 lb ft then 120 degrees.

Cool. Thanks.

JoeTahoe
10-14-13, 04:29 PM
Minimum torque is 250 ft lbs. I have stretched many dampner bolts that's why I have two spares always

mjbrome
10-14-13, 05:17 PM
Wow 250 sounds high. My buddy is pulling it off alldata tomorrow.

JoeTahoe
10-15-13, 10:26 AM
This is the recommended torque from Northstar Performance and I have yet to have any problems but I do stretch the bolt sometimes

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Sub is correct on what the factory service manual says

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Sorry it was ranger

Submariner409
10-18-13, 12:40 PM
started right up but sounded like a diesel

Don't want to rain on your parade, but if the engine started and ran for more than a few seconds with no oil pressure the chances are almost 100% that you have ruined one or more con rod bearings.

FWIW, the recommended crank pulley bolt initial torque plus 120 degrees comes out to close to 300 lb/ft. Use a new bolt every time. To 37 lb/ft + 120 degrees.