: Got my car back! YEH!!! **update**



carguy16
04-16-05, 04:00 PM
I just got my car back today, no more power steering leaks with these new hoses.

The shop could not check for codes, because I have OBD1 and their equipment is OBD2. So, my service engine soon light is still on, as are both fans, and the apparent faster idle speed.

Looks like they cleaned up a little, but i need to get some degreaser spray it on, then I will pressure wash it off.

There was a noticable rattle under WOT, sounded like metal. Then there is a plastic rattle around the glove box area, I looked under the hood, the fuse box cover is loose and can sway, then there are two green fuses that attach on the side of this fuse box, one of them came off, due to the plumbing of the A.C.

For this job they had to pull the front wheels, they said it was a bitch to do, the hoses go under the engine, and I think they had to remove the air cleaner, tight fit.

My front left wheel is still squeaking on the car, but stops when it brakes, this wheel was removed so the mechanic could get in there and work on the system. Anyone know what this is, a bearing or bushing?

Anyone advice or comments are welcome.

ocjmakaveli
04-16-05, 04:53 PM
I just got my car back today, no more power steering leaks with these new hoses.

The shop could not check for codes, because I have OBD1 and their equipment is OBD2. So, my service engine soon light is still on, as are both fans, and the apparent faster idle speed.

Looks like they cleaned up a little, but i need to get some degreaser spray it on, then I will pressure wash it off.

There was a noticable rattle under WOT, sounded like metal. Then there is a plastic rattle around the glove box area, I looked under the hood, the fuse box cover is loose and can sway, then there are two green fuses that attach on the side of this fuse box, one of them came off, due to the plumbing of the A.C.

For this job they had to pull the front wheels, they said it was a bitch to do, the hoses go under the engine, and I think they had to remove the air cleaner, tight fit.

My front left wheel is still squeaking on the car, but stops when it brakes, this wheel was removed so the mechanic could get in there and work on the system. Anyone know what this is, a bearing or bushing?

Anyone advice or comments are welcome.

i believe the squeak on the left side are the bushings.

best to take it to a shop to have it checked out.


Pull the codes yourself using the Temperature control unit check this page out and read it all then go to the other page http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=35;t=000763


main page http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html (http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html)

BluEyes
04-17-05, 02:23 PM
Get that rattling under WOT looked at SOON. When you say it sounds metallic, that REALLY sounds like 'pinging' or spark knock. It is caused by over-advanced ignition timing, and is VERY bad for the engine internals - leading to broken pistons and rings if it is doing it badly.

I'd check the knock sensor first, and also see if the codes show anything.
What grade of gas are you running?

I can't believe that they couldn't pull codes. ODB1 vehicles are super-simple for this...

carguy16
04-17-05, 03:39 PM
The pinging has ceased, I just hope it didnt do any damage. I didnt know it was pinging, I figured something may have been lose.

I was getting a code 41:

DTC 41 Will set when: Voltage on CKT 423 exceeds 4.6 volts and engine speed is less than 1500 RPM.

Action Taken (PCM Will defaukl to) If a DTC 41 is detected, the PCM will disable the fuel injectors to prevent flooding of the engine. DTC 41 will be stored in the PCM memory but will NOT turn "ON" the malfunction indicator lamp.

Basically, it has something to do with the distributer ignition system providing two timing inputs to the PCM, high = 180 pulses per crankshaft revolution, low = 4 pulses per crankshaft revolution. PCM uses these two reference pulses to determine indivudal ignition spark timing for each cylinder.



Get that rattling under WOT looked at SOON. When you say it sounds metallic, that REALLY sounds like 'pinging' or spark knock. It is caused by over-advanced ignition timing, and is VERY bad for the engine internals - leading to broken pistons and rings if it is doing it badly.

I'd check the knock sensor first, and also see if the codes show anything.
What grade of gas are you running?

I can't believe that they couldn't pull codes. ODB1 vehicles are super-simple for this...