: Halfway through my motor mount install...



fweasel
09-22-13, 02:36 PM
and I've learned three very important lessons. Number one, disconnect the battery because the passenger motor mount assembly is damn close to the starter. Whoops. Number two, cracked, leaking OEM motor mounts continue to leak, especially when turned upside down and removed. Number three, the fluid contained inside said OEM motor mounts tastes nasty.

All kidding aside, I found the Creative Steel Youtube videos to be a helpful start in terms of identifying all of the key hardware involved. As suggested by others, I did not need to remove anything from the car nor drop the subframe to gain necessary clearance. Jacking the engine up from the oil pan was all the clearance I needed. Breaking the OEM mount assembly down into three pieces makes removing it from the car relatively painless. Reinstalling my new Revshift blue's went pretty smoothly doing it in two pieces. I bolted the upper aluminum mount to the new motor mount, slid into place, bolted to the block, then attached the bottom mount.

Got called in from the garage by the boss for some dad duties. After the break, I'm hoping the driver's side comes out and goes back in like the passenger side did.

Naf
09-22-13, 02:58 PM
I will be followin suit but only to install the new thermal shields for the rev shift mounts...

Will try and install my ls7 return line as well since i will have more clearance

fweasel
09-23-13, 11:32 PM
Spent about an hour pulling the starter so I could clean up the threads on one of the passenger mounting holes in the block. Better safe than sorry. Turns our the drivers side was a little more cramped with the steering assembly in the way, but I managed okay.

Holy schnikeys, the difference is night and day. The car is so much quiter and you can barely feel the engine start now. A good portion of my driveline clunk is gone, but the driveshaft whine did not improve. I was hoping a little alignment in the driveline would cure or lessen it, not so much. Rear diff bushing and replacing rusted exhaust bolts are next on the list. After that, window urethane in the driveshaft bushing support, then solve reverse selection issue.

JDB
09-24-13, 07:32 AM
A lot of clunk will go away with the diff block. Definitely replaced the diff bushing. And do the trans mount insert. Get it all aligned and stiffened up.

barrok69
09-24-13, 01:45 PM
FYI, hydro mounts (our engine mounts) typically contain some form of ethylene glycol to prevent freezing in sub zero temperatures. I wouldn't recommend ingesting it :)

fweasel
09-24-13, 03:25 PM
A lot of clunk will go away with the diff block. Definitely replaced the diff bushing. And do the trans mount insert. Get it all aligned and stiffened up.Trans insert went in last weekend. Rear diff is next weekend. Is the rear diff block necessary or recommended if everything else is replaced with poly?


FYI, hydro mounts (our engine mounts) typically contain some form of ethylene glycol to prevent freezing in sub zero temperatures. I wouldn't recommend ingesting it :)I, like my girlfriend in high school, didn't swallow. :lol: No harm, no foul.