: How to Retrofit Your Opera Lights

04-07-05, 10:18 PM
Hey, just thought I'd let you guys know that I'm going to TRY to retrofit some slightly larger opera lamps in my Bro.

http://www.infiniteinnovations.com/main.asp?p=2_222 They're the ones at the bottom of the page; they glow more like the original lamps (that cool, ultraviolet kinda light) instead of bright white. They're wider and taller than the originals and don't come with mounting hardware so I'll have to figure that out on my own. IF I'm successful, I'll post some photos and instructions. If not...well, someone on Ebay would want them.

DopeStar 156
04-07-05, 11:19 PM
Definately go for it and if it works, I'll be the second guy on here to do it. All of us with busted opera lamps are rooting for you.

04-07-05, 11:27 PM

thanks from all those who think they drive casual limos for the site, also. should i get the walnut 4 peice set for my coupe? thatd be frikin hilarious for prom or something.

04-08-05, 03:15 AM
It might be worth a laugh or two but do you really wanna spend all that money on something you'll use maybe once? =P I was looking at a little coffee table for mine, since they don't have cup holders. LOL But I'd want something that matched the "wood" of the interior. Oh, also, somewhere I saw some wooden tray tables like you see on airliners...you mount them yourself so you'd have to find ones (or make them?) that would fit the backs of our seats...but that'd be pretty cool. Heh

As for the opera lamps, I'll get them probably next week so I might try to pull off the B pillars and poke around in there. Does anyone know just where to look for that converter in the trunk? Is it a transformer? Anyway, that thing that changes the +12V to 110. Gotta bypass that...or run a house lamp off of it. =P

04-08-05, 01:03 PM
As for the opera lamps, I'll get them probably next week so I might try to pull off the B pillars and poke around in there. Does anyone know just where to look for that converter in the trunk? Is it a transformer? Anyway, that thing that changes the +12V to 110. Gotta bypass that...or run a house lamp off of it. =P

Any chance you could post a couple "in progress" pictures as you go? I'd love to see how it goes for you, if it turns out it's not too tough of a job I will definitely fix mine as well.

04-08-05, 01:27 PM
i want to get them fixed as well, so good luck, and post some pics

04-08-05, 10:57 PM
Yeah, I'll do that. The lamps should arrive in about a week so I'll see what I can do after that. If the mounting brackets don't line up with the current holes in the B pillar I'll have to figure that one out. That same site offers a bright white lamp that is the same size as the ones I bought and comes with a mounting kit that is supposed to fit any holes you already have...the two things I didn't like, though, are that they are bright white (I want the stock ultraviolet look) and the backs have a more pronounced curve; I don't know how that would work on our relatively flat pillars. The ones I bought are a little flatter and I have a padded roof so there's some wiggle room.

I'll get some pix when the lights get here and I start to work. *FINGERS CROSSED*

DopeStar 156
04-09-05, 12:05 AM
I would want to just use the stock lights for casing and just put LED's in that. That way it's sure to fit flat and be the right size.

04-09-05, 12:32 AM
I'll get some pix when the lights get here and I start to work. *FINGERS CROSSED*

Thanks cmgrafmc. I really would love to get these working, but I'm kind of a dumbass when it comes to working on cars. If you can get this working and post how you did it with pictures, I'll owe you for life. :thumbsup:

04-10-05, 05:05 AM
Yeah, I wanted to use the stock cover and all but when I got to thinking about it, I decided it might look cool if the lights were larger...and since the ones I ordered are larger anyway, I'll get my wish. If they look stupid I'll figure something else out.

DopeStar 156
04-10-05, 10:12 AM
How much larger are we talking? What're the dimentions on the stock ones?

04-11-05, 02:15 AM
The stock ones are like 3/4" wide by maybe 7", I don't remember. The ones I bought are 15/16" wide and almost 11" tall. The space between the "chrome" window frames (whatever they're called) is like exactly 15/16"...it'll be tight. The height isn't a concern and since the lights are put on top of the vinyl roof instead of the roof molded around the lights; I should just be able to put the new ones right on top...and hope I can mount them using the existing holes in the pillar.

DopeStar 156
04-11-05, 09:31 AM
I've already gutted all the electroluminesence crap out of my spares so I can stick LED's in there but I'm waiting for gmgrafmc to try it first and see if it works. Haha.

04-12-05, 04:30 AM
It doesn't SOUND all that difficult to get to the lamps...was it, DopeStar?

I just got an e-mail from infiniteinnovations.com and they informed me of their shipping charge...$13.30...and they only told me AFTER they charged it to my card. That's their policy: you order the parts, give them your card #, they ship it out to you and THEN e-mail you the final invoice...you get no hint about their shipping fee until it's too late. Grrrr. Seems kinda high for such relatively lightweight items.

Anyway...just had to gripe.

Oh, and feel free to try your lights first, Dope. I'm hesitant to dig around and bypass that transformer in the trunk. =P

DopeStar 156
04-12-05, 01:11 PM
It doesn't SOUND all that difficult to get to the lamps...was it, DopeStar? Oh, and feel free to try your lights first, Dope. I'm hesitant to dig around and bypass that transformer in the trunk. =P

Hahaha no that's ok, you go ahead. You've already ordered them anyway and prolly know what you're doing better than I. The opera lights are simple enough to remove. Take off the screws around the B-pillar on the inside, where the seatbelt feeds into the car. I think there's like 7 or 8 screws. Then with an extended socket wrench unbolt the opera lights from the B-Pillar. You'll prolly need to point a flashlight in there to spot them. You can stick something in the holes of the pillar to catch the bolts if you want, but you don't have to bolt them back in. You can always glue them to the vunyl from the outside. Once you unbolt them take a screw driver and pry them away from the exterior of the pillar and there ya go. It ain't so hard. Mine aren't bolted in anymore so i just need to pry them out. Good luck and god's speed.

04-12-05, 10:56 PM
I have too much time on my hands because I'm always reading this forum. =P

Anyway, I told Infinite Innovations that if I'm successful they might get some new business from some of us here at the site. To be honest, the biggest thing they have going for them is that SO FAR they're the only ones I've seen with LED lamps that glow that ultraviolet white, like the original EL lights did. According to their site they're #498 lamps; I wonder if they're available elsewhere.

Anyway, the shipping ID tells me they should arrive around Friday. I'll try to get started over the weekend and will take pix at every major step, including the removal of the interior trim.

So now, I'm hoping some kind member will post fairly specific instructions on where to find and bypass this thing in the trunk. I'll search the forum again because someone explained it before, though it was for a different model or year. In the meantime, if someone knows what I'm talking about, maybe he/she would be so gracious as to provide the info here?

04-13-05, 12:37 AM
Anyway, the shipping ID tells me they should arrive around Friday. I'll try to get started over the weekend and will take pix at every major step, including the removal of the interior trim.

Thanks cmgrafmc. This thread is definitely destined for the Hall of Fame if you get this going, because the opera lights are notorious for not working. But they would be so cool if they worked! You're a pioneer.

So now, I'm hoping some kind member will post fairly specific instructions on where to find and bypass this thing in the trunk. I'll search the forum again because someone explained it before, though it was for a different model or year. In the meantime, if someone knows what I'm talking about, maybe he/she would be so gracious as to provide the info here?

I wish I could; I really have no idea. I have a 1988 service manual in front of me and it doesn't have "Opera Lights" in the index at all. Good luck though, hopefully someone else has better advice than me! :drinker

04-14-05, 08:44 PM
I'm betting that all of you who have posted in here already have seen my other thread, but just in case someone comes to this page via search, I need some help and have created a thread to that extent:


If anyone has any suggestions about the 110V inverter in the trunk, please go to the forum above and see if you can help. I can't pay you but I can owe you! =) Thanks!

04-16-05, 12:01 AM
Success! I just got home and am going to eat dinner and relax. I'll post instructions and some pix afterwards if I'm still awake!

04-16-05, 12:07 AM
Success! I just got home and am going to eat dinner and relax. I'll post instructions and some pix afterwards if I'm still awake!

Nice going cmgrafmc!!!!!!!! I will definitely be looking out for the photos. This is one project I definitely want to replicate on my Brougham. And like I said, these threads should really go in the Hall of Fame, if you ask me.

04-16-05, 12:44 AM
Well, my friends, it's actually pretty easy! Here's what you'll need:

Wire cutters/stripper
Wire caps (those twisty things you put on top of wires to twist them together, while covering the exposed wires)
Flashlight, maybe
Electrical tape
Phillips head screwdriver, flathead screwdriver
"Goof-Off" or equiv. - glue, gum, tar remover
Socket set
"GOOP" or similar sealant -- black, tarry stuff that retains it's flexibility

First off, disconnect the battery.

Okay, let's start to work on the driver's side. Remove the interior molding over the center pillar. Use the PH screwdriver to remove three screws from the front (steering wheel) side and three from the rear.

Step two: gently pry the molding away from the frame. It's flexible but will scratch if not careful. Maneuver the molding toward the back seat. Be careful of the little plastic and metal clip holding the upper molding to the lower molding. I don't recommend removing it because the tiny metal clip is very brittle. If possible, simply push the molding to the rear of the car until the pillar is mostly exposed. Careful of the seatbelt. Gently remove the insulation that is attached to the pillar. The glue may still hold it in place but it won't require much effort to pry it loose. Once out of the way, you'll see the seat-belt retainer. See photo (Exposed pillar.jpg):

Step three: remove the screw holding the white seat-belt retainer. Don't drop the screw, just in case it goes somewhere you can't reach. Lift up slightly until the retainer slips out of its slot and let it slide down the belt and out of the way. You'll now have access to the goodies inside!

INSIDE the pillar you'll find those famous wires we've all been dying to see. They are twisted and wrapped in a black and yellow tape marked "Caution: 110V" or something to that effect. They are connected to a plug which is, you guessed it, plugged into the light. Pull the plug and bring the wires out into the glorious sunshine (or garage light, or what have you). See photo (Plug.jpg)

Now here's a bit of fun for you: using a socket set (I don't remember if it was 9/16) you'll have to remove the "nuts" inside the pillar. Now, you can't use your run of the mill ratchet. There's not enough room, as you can see. You need a socket set with the screwdriver type handle, on which you'd fit the appropriate socket. This is the fun part because, as has been mentioned before, these nuts can fall into the pillar and most likely cannot be retrieved. You may use whatever technique you wish to prevent that from happening. I used a telescoping magnet and STILL lost one of them. There are two on each light. Use the flashlight to peek inside to see where they are.

After the nuts have been removed, use a flathead screwdriver to very carefully pry the lights off of your roof. If you have a padded roof, this is a little easier, because you're not running the risk of scratching anything. I have no idea what it would be like with a painted, flat roof. I can't give you any advice there. It'll take a little doing, because these lights are on there pretty tight, but don't worry. Eventually you'll pry the light free and you'll see three holes: two smaller ones where the pins of the lamp fit through, and a larger one to accommodate the plug. See photo (No turning back now.jpg):

Use the wire cutters to snip off the plug at the end of the wires inside. Unwrap your new lights (LEDs or any +12V lamp you want) and feed the wires through one of the holes. The hole you choose will depend upon the lights you use and how they are to be attached to the car. In My case, I chose the top-most hole. You will have a positive and negative wire coming from you light (most of you know this, but just in case...) and fish them both through and then out the SAME hole through which you've pulled the blue, white and brown wires from before.

If necessary, strip the ends of the wires from your new lamps. Then strip the following, on the driver's side: SOLID BROWN, WHITE, BROWN with WHITE STRIPE. IGNORE the blue wire. Be sure your battery is disconnected or at the very least that your headlights are off. Take one of the wire caps and twist the SOLID BROWN, the BROWN with WHITE STRIPE and the power wire from your new lamp together. Wire cap the white wire to the ground wire of your new lamp. See photo (Twist the night away.jpg):

Repeat all the above steps on the opposite side, EXCEPT: Strip the SOLID BROWN and WHITE wires only. Wire cap the SOLID BROWN wire to the power wire of your new lamp. Wire cap the WHITE wire to your lamp's ground wire.

Tape off all other wires but don't be overly concerned because they will no longer carry any current after the next and most important step. Don't bother to reassemble things at this point but don't accidentally close the door and crush your new lights.

This next step is very important but much simpler than I thought it would be. Open your trunk and on the driver's side, remove the gray carpet from around the base of the spring and pull it toward the back. To do this, there is a black fastener you have to carefully pry out of its hole. Just go slowly and you won't have any trouble. Once pulled back, you'll see that familiar black and yellow tape wrapped around some blue and white wires. They feed to the inverter, which is very conveniently placed about midway between the spring and the tail light on the drivers side, tucked neatly up and underneath. See photo (Lip service):

You'll see in that photo that I've already removed the inverter and unplugged it. The inverter is about the size of a relay or child's building block. There are two plugs: one has blue and white wires, the other is a single solid brown wire. To be honest, I just yanked the thing out, breaking the plastic pin which held the inverter in place. I don't need it anymore, anyway, although I'm saving it just in case. Pull away the black tape and cut off both plugs. Strip the WHITE wires and the BLACK wire. Ignore the blue wires and the brown one.

Wire cap the two WHITE wires to the BLACK wire. Tape everything off and secure it; pay attention to that extra brown wire. It doesn't carry any current but just in case, make sure it's tapped securely. You may replace the carpeting now, if you wish.

Now, at this point, everything should be connected properly. I offer NO promise that these instructions will work for your car; it is up to you to determine if your model has the same wiring. I recommend using a voltmeter to be SURE of which wire is carrying what current. All I know is that this setup worked for me and my car. If you feel comfortable with the work you've done and believe my instructions were accurate, reconnect the battery and/or turn on your headlights to see if the lamps work. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised!

That being said, there's some more work to do. You'll see that where you've removed the old lights, the padding has some glue left on it. Goof-Off is a great product and I use it all the time but any gum, glue or tar remover will probably work. BE VERY CAREFUL with this stuff because it WILL take off paint. If you have a painted roof, be especially aware of this! It is up to you to determine the best way to mount and secure your new lights so from here on out, these instructions apply to my own experience.

Rub away the glue residue until the entire pillar is clean. A paper towel works just fine. I suggest wiping it down again with water and allowing it to dry completely before mounting your new lamps.

Using GOOP or a similar tarry sealant, fill in the holes in the pillar, even around the wires. Let that set however long it needs to and under appropriate conditions.

My lights came with a padded adhesive backing and since I wasn't prepared, I used that. The lamps I bought JUST fit in between the moldings on the doors. HOWEVER! Because the roof was designed to accommodate the original lamps, they were recessed slightly. This means that my lamps, well...they stick out at the top a bit because they are longer and don't fit directly into the space provided. This is something I will correct at another time. See photo (Easy does it.jpg):

Assuming you're more or less happy with everything, it's time to make sure everything is taped up and tucked away. Reassemble the interior moldings but don't over-tighten any screws. I'd suggest keeping all the plugs, the inverter and the nuts in case you ever want to change back for some reason.

Now, again, the lights I bought are not exactly what I'd have picked if we had some huge selection. They're a bit large but once I figure a better way to mount them to the pillars, I'll be most happy. These give off a semi-ultraviolet white light. See photo (Let there be light.jpg, Light 2.jpg):

That's pretty much all there is to it! Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and help. The wiring diagram was more complicated than the actual thing. Once I stared at it long enough I saw that I didn't need to wire anything special in the trunk, other than the white ground wires. Hopefully this information will prove useful to more than a few people. I doubt I'm the first to really do this but I have yet to come across instructions such as these. Now, if any of you have questions or need clarification, PM or post to this thread, unless a mod has a better idea. I'll try my best to help whenever possible!

The advantage to this method is that now we have lots of options. Any coachlight we can fit, any color we can LEGALLY drive around with. If I'm unhappy with these lights I can swap them out pretty easily! Good luck and have fun!

DopeStar 156
04-16-05, 11:13 AM
Neat. If I do this though I can skip like half the steps because I had my vinyl top guy leave the lights unbolted from the car, all I gotta do is putt 'em out and get to the trunk. Thanks cm. When I give this a shot I'm gonna try to find a set of LED's I can stuff into the original opera lamp casings.

04-16-05, 11:33 AM
DopeStar, if you find some good looking LEDs please post. While my opera lights are still working, I'd like to be able to fix them quickly if they stop. Also, does anyone know if the wiring is the same on a 90?


DopeStar 156
04-16-05, 01:58 PM
I took some measurements. The stock lamps are 7 in. tall and 3/4 in. wide. The space can house a lamp that's no wider than one inch. I'm looking for a suitable substitute to put there.

DopeStar 156
04-16-05, 02:07 PM
I've found some that look like they could be used for a better fit.

These look like they can be retrofitted into the stock cases for a perfect fit.

These are the correct height but are a little too fat. Maybe they can be gutted and the led board can be filed a little bit to fit into the stock cases.

There's some potential with the products on this site. Certainly a pretty big selection.

04-16-05, 02:55 PM
I wasn't happy with any of the lights on that site but then again I'm not THRILLED with the rather large size of the ones I have now. The cool part is that they glow evenly and kind of that blue white like the originals. I haven't looked but how easy is it to open up the old lamp casings? Any tips?

04-16-05, 09:45 PM
hey cmgrafmc. are you happy with the results. if so, i will probably be doing the same thing because cars with working opera lamps are sweet

DopeStar 156
04-17-05, 01:15 AM
All I really did was pry the clear part away from the backing. Doing this you're sorta breaking them but I have two extras that aren't on my car that I can fool around with.

04-17-05, 03:09 AM
Hm. I MIGHT fiddle with the original lamps but I must say that these blue ones have really grown on me.

So, to answer pimpin88's question, YES, I'm quite pleased. I spent some time today really making them fit right. Because of way the old ones fit into their niche, the top ends of the new ones stuck out (they have a padded adhesive backing) about 1/8" and really looked like a cheap add-on. So to get around that I removed the lamps and cut the padded adhesive off the upper third of the lights; that's about where the padding of the roof starts to bulge out, which is what was causing the lights to stick out. I'm being as clear as I can without pictures. I think.

I bought some 3M plastic emblem glue, designed for exactly what I'm doing. It was like $3.39 I think and comes in a squeeze tube. I used some more of that Goof-Off to clean the back of the light, where I'd removed a portion of it's backing. I rubbed it clean with water and dried it before applying the glue all the way around in a thin line. I lined things up by feel and sight and held it for a few minutes, per the instructions.

I have to say that, while not ABSOLUTELY PERFECT as I'd like, it's damned near it. Honestly, unless you know the car, I doubt too many people would realize that they're not OEM, except maybe for the sick blue color. Even then, the originals were kinda like that, only much, much smaller and dimmer.

You know, even my grandpa said they look good. Haha The next and hopefully final step is to maybe put some clear caulking just under the plastic trim, to make sure these are water tight. Until then, I'm not going to wash the car...which sucks because the birds use it for target practice every day. Well, that's what baby wipes are for. =P

If I get a chance, I'll try to take a better picture at night to show just how cool these things look.

04-17-05, 11:33 AM
well, you got my props for that one. i think they look pretty sweet. i guess i'll be the second guy to do that. just have to get around to ordering them. oh man, i cant wait.

04-17-05, 04:24 PM
If you order the same ones I did, or if you order ANY lights from infiniteinnovations.com, send them an e-mail and explain that you're retrofitting your Cadillac opera lights and that you read how to do it online. I don't get any kick backs or anything but I told them that if I was successful I'd probably refer people to them because they were helpful.

Night Wolf
04-17-05, 06:10 PM
Wow.... lots of great info!

Just for kicks, here are the opra lamps on my DeVilles

the '79 uses a standard fuse-type light bulb.... neither pictures are good, but it is a bright light at night, looks nice. (and is easily/cheaply replaced)

the '93 uses the electrolumenesent whatever thing it isn't very bright at all, but you can see the glow at night.... pics for this are bad too...

04-17-05, 06:25 PM
Yep the opera lights on my 78 are the same as those. They're going on ebay pretty soon and the car is going to a junkyard. So depressing.

Night Wolf
04-17-05, 06:37 PM
can you get pics of the car?

why are you junking it?

04-17-05, 10:08 PM
alright cmgrafmc, sounds good to me. after i get mine done i'll have to post some pics also.

04-26-05, 02:23 AM
I love opera lights....such a uniquely american classic!
The pictures look great. I wish I had em on mine too.
Talk about pimpin!

04-26-05, 03:53 AM
alright cmgrafmc, sounds good to me. after i get mine done i'll have to post some pics also.

Hey, got the lights yet? Any progress?

04-26-05, 07:57 AM
no, i've been unable to do anything with all the snow here. still waiting for the snow to melt and then get my parents to order them, as i do not have a credit card. but dont worry, they will get done!!

DopeStar 156
04-26-05, 12:39 PM
Snow? You poor bastard. I still didn't get my cataloge from this limo parts company!

04-26-05, 04:24 PM
ya lol and fricken lots of it. we got about 18+ inches from saturday afternoon to monday morning. what the hell, may is only a few days away. there was enough snow to cancel school yesterday, and tons of people dont have power.

but as soon as its gone, it will be time to put some tlc into my brougham

04-26-05, 05:57 PM
can you get pics of the car?

why are you junking it?

The 78 in it's better days... It developed a rod knock, the seats are worn and torn, the dash is trashed, it's been spray painted, the vinyl top is cracked, and the trans was leaking fluid. :helpless: I'd love to fix it but it's not worth it.

DopeStar 156
04-26-05, 07:26 PM
Put it on ebay. It's do-able. No need to take a Fleetwood Brougham out of existance. You could make some money on it.

04-26-05, 10:08 PM
No no, put it out of its misery. I say this ONLY because I'm self-interested here: I see far too many cars like mine (though not in as good shape) and I want to weed the field a bit so mine stands out more. =) I might even put it in a show this summer, now that the lights are on it. Haha

DopeStar 156
04-27-05, 12:32 AM
HA! I AM putting mine in a show! Boo-yah! LOL!

04-27-05, 04:16 AM
Just coz you have the D'Elegance package you think you're all bad...well I have working opera lights, so HA! BTW, how many miles do you have on yours, Dope? Or should I call you Star? How about, "In Mod We Trust." You like that? =P

DopeStar 156
04-27-05, 10:42 AM
LOL! Dope will be fine. The only reason I'm in this show is because it's open to anyone and Sandy told me about it since we live like 30 minutes from each other. My car has 125.4k miles on it.

04-27-05, 08:11 PM
Hm. TOTALLY off topic but I don't wanna start ANOTHER thread. Got the car back from the garage again. He adjusted the timing from 16 to 10 degrees, the factory setting. He also adjusted some voltage or something oruther. Anyway, I live at the top of a hill. With the timing at 10 degrees, I can walk up the hill faster than I can drive it: 7 MPH. Okay, I'd have to sprint. Hard. LOL The point is, do I really have to sacrifice THAT much power to gain fuel economy? Remember, I was getting 9 MPG. Am I going to get that lofty 15 I see everyone else getting? I'm a noob about timing. Oh, the other thing he adjusted had to do with my carb...I remember that! Anyway, he "just" charged me his hourly rate, $78.50. Gag me with a spoon!

Oh, and about entering it in a show? Yeah, the one I'll enter is open to most anyone. I figure the meth & mullet heads around here ain't done seen as purdy a car since theys daddy's all work'd down at the mill and Boss Hog done showed up one day with them bull horns on his hood and a big ol' white hat an' boots. Garsh.

No offense to anyone in Milwaukie. (Yes, with an IE.) :)

DopeStar 156
04-27-05, 08:26 PM
Maybe someone adjusted it that way because of the way it performs now but yeah, that's the typical behavior of the 307 on a hill.

04-28-05, 12:02 AM
Set the initial timing a bit higher back towards where it was, just make sure your vacuum advance works. Wait, do these newfangled computerey cars even have vacuum advance distributors?

My parents really want my Fleetwood out of the back yard and it really isn't worthwhile to fix, both bumpers are dented, it would take thousands upon thousands to fix to good condition. Putting a car on ebay costs like $40 anyway and I wouldn't get that for it.

05-17-05, 08:33 PM
sell it for parts. it's sad to see a cadillac rot as a lawn ornament ;(

06-05-05, 04:24 AM
Anyone else do this mod yet? Several people have checked this post but so far I think I might be the only person to have tried it. I'd be interested to see pictures of others' work. I know I get the most looks when I'm driving at night with the opera lamps lit up. =P Or is it the thumpin' stereo? Heh

DopeStar 156
06-05-05, 12:41 PM
I'm definately going to try this but I want to find a set of lights that look close to stock and that will fit best. Right now I've got some mechanical things to attend to.

06-05-05, 09:53 PM
Lemme know if you find some lights you like. The ones I have get lots of attention and they fit well but I'd be interested to see what other options I have. I chose these coz of the cool neon-blue/white color. =D

06-05-05, 11:26 PM
have any of u guys ever seen this site? www.superbrightleds.com (http://www.superbrightleds.com/) they got a nice selection of LEDs that im sure u can rig up some sort of coach light modification with.. thats what im planning to do.. as for now i just have the original EL strip lights on my cady still... i just went to the junk yard and snatched a few that just happened to work fine... btw.. that sites also got an LED version of almost any light bulb u can think of.. its pretty dope

DopeStar 156
06-05-05, 11:47 PM
that sites also got an LED version of almost any light bulb u can think of.. its pretty dope
Hahahahaha yeah.....it's pretty me..... :coolgleam

07-25-05, 01:17 AM
I have a question about the opera lamps; how the heck do u know if theyre broken, or if theres something wrong in the electronics?? Is there anything else besides them being burnt out/broken that could cause them not to work?

DopeStar 156
07-25-05, 11:39 AM
Haha ya don't. Well not easily anyway. A multimeter is the way to go to see if they're getting power. I've heard there's a transformer in the trunk that goes and causes them to go out.

10-13-05, 06:51 PM
Hello all. I am so glad i found this forum! I have a 1987 Brougham that i just purchased. Always wanted one. I like the retrofit opera lamps that were put on the CM's Brougham but I too am looking for a little more stock appearance. Has anyone found anything? Thanks

It's Just Eric
10-15-05, 11:05 AM
Im so glad my opera lights still work, even after 150,000 miles and 3 years in salty air.