: About to upgrade brakes



jclayc
09-12-13, 11:32 AM
Hi everyone,

I'm about to pull the trigger on a front brake upgrade and would like your input. My goal is to have a "true" racing brake setup - anti knockback springs, cast aluminum calipers and no dust boots. On the table are 3-4 options:


An AP Racing kit (http://www.stillen.com/product/brake-kits/ap-racing-6-piston-front-slotted-big-brake-kit-black-calipers-ap7200s-21058.html)with 6 piston calipers and 2 pc front rotors sold by Stillen (and distributors) at around $2500. The thing is, the rotors are 362mm and, while the calipers do have anti knockback springs, I don't think the calipers are truly "race" calipers and don't know anything about the rotors.


the 370mm v2 retrofit rotors (http://www.racingbrake.com/CTS-V-FRONT-09-11-upgrade-for-04-07-V1-CTS-V-p/2189.htm) from racingbrake plus stock v2 calipers. Again, I don't know that either the rotors or calipers are going to stand up to track abuse as well as a "race" kit.


the racingbrake rotors + find a set of "true" racing calipers for the v2


either custom hats or "racing" rotors for the v2 that I machine to fit + find a set of "true" racing calipers for the v2




I don't think the D3 kits for the v2 are really an option because of price and b/c they use oversized rotors (larger than 370mm) which I think would be too big for my 18" wheels. I talked to EssexParts.com (yooper's recommendation) and they can source the calipers but 1) they can't come up with the brackets - I'd have to have them made somewhere and 2) the rotors would be 355mm.

Thoughts?

OneFast V
09-12-13, 11:45 AM
Beyond just your goal what is your intended application? I mean if your true goal is true racing brake setup then obviously the V2 calipers are out of the question. However if you are only doing HPDEs the V2 caliper upgrade is the best and most affordable option. I'm running the V2 calipers with V1 rotors on the track for HPDE and they work great. I know junior1 is still running OEM calipers with 2 piece rotors on his raceV so it can be done with stock calipers too.

jclayc
09-12-13, 11:47 AM
The car is ~almost~ track only - I really only drive it when I'm headed to HPDE and Time Trial events. I may eventually put a full cage in it and "race" but not in the next 1-2 years.

Another way to look at it - I want to stop frying rotors and caliper dust boots... and make this the last and only caliper/rotor upgrade I make.

barrok69
09-12-13, 12:16 PM
You should start looking into better/larger brake ducting and high temp silicone dust boots (not rubber). The increase in airflow will help with fade and caliper/rotor temps tremendously. Another idea would be to use TI shields on the back of your pads. I haven't used them personally, but from what I've read they help reduce heatsoak into the calipers.

Browsing around on rockauto the other day, I noticed you could buy carbon ceramic rotors for a ZR1, fronts and rears. You might want to look into that if you are only tracking the car. Those rotors love heat and stop better the more heat you throw at them.

You should be running the largest size rotor you can in your package space and running a pad that uses the full surface area to get all the benefits.

Cross drilling rotors is a marketing gimmick for anything but non-vented solid discs.

There are also a few floating caliper systems out there too that can more than meet your criteria. I've used a few in the past that have twin piston cast iron calipers, 14" rotors and can last over a hundred hot laps without having any temp issues. (on a 4500lb vehicle).

So many options. It all depends on what your budget is and how much weight you want to add or remove from your car.

jclayc
09-12-13, 12:44 PM
Thanks for the replies so far. I've got some good new 3" ducting that I haven't run with yet that I'm hopeful will cool things off quite a bit. I'm already running TI backing plates. (I honestly don't care about weight - more power can make up for that ;))

I really like the idea of the carbon ceramic rotors but don't love the idea of machining them to 6 bolts - am I just paranoid that drilling 6 holes in a hat made with 5 holes will weaken it or make it unbalanced? Agreed that slotted or j-hooked rotors are the way to go - not cross drilled.

I would like to get away with spending less than $4k on the front. I think that's more than reasonable.

Any specific recommendations on 6pot calipers other than the v2 ones? I might call D3 and talk to them about direct replacement v2 race calipers but not their whole "kits", which are too expensive and too big for 18" wheels, I think.

How would you go about switching from rubber dust boots to silicone? Meaning, I've never seen an upgrade kit for the factory calipers, just replacement kits.

thebigjimsho
09-12-13, 06:34 PM
V2 rotors and calipers will allow fitment of many 18" wheels...

Naf
09-13-13, 06:22 AM
If you want i have 8 piston brembo calipers that fit in 18" wheels. You just have to score rotors...

I swapped over the v2 calipers for the fact that pads were super expensive. They barely have 5000mi on them and i will toss in my full set of rotors and pads...

Pm me if your interested...and i will also shoot u some pix of the calipers

jclayc
09-13-13, 10:58 AM
Thanks Naf, I PM'ed you.

If Naf's option doesn't work out, I'm heavily leaning toward the AP Racing kit, even though the rotors are 8mm smaller than the 370s from racingbrake. My rationale is that the price is about the same whether I upgrade to a v2 system or the AP Racing system (math below), so it's down to whether I think going with the AP Racing calipers are worth losing that 8mm (4mm per side) of rotor. Even though I think clamping force is more important than pad area, I'm asking myself how much pad area would I get with the AP Racing calipers vs. the v2 calipers. I believe the AP Racing ones will provide 77.44cm2 (12.0in2) of pad area. Does anyone know the area of v2 pads? I can find the measurements of the v2 pad itself, but that includes the backing plates. I think the v2 pads are significantly bigger than the AP racing ones 5.98"x3.17" so I'm also assuming the v2 pad area is going to be much more.

With that said, do I give up the v2's larger pad area for what I believe are better calipers (the AP Racing ones)?


The math on a v2 upgrade:
- $1350 on the 2pc racingbrake rotors (AP Racing kit comes w/ 2pc rotors - sure, I could get away with cheaper v2 discs but then I wouldn't be comparing apples to apples. The cheapest apples to apples comparison would be GM's 2 pc rotors for the v2 which, slotted and redrilled for 6 lugs would be around $900)
- $600 on the v2 calipers
- $300 on v2 pads (AP Racing kit comes w/ pads)
- $100 on hardware like the bolts, washers, retaining pins/plates
= $2350 before shipping.
The AP Racing kit is $2475 shipped.

OneFast V
09-13-13, 12:42 PM
You can get several decent pads (HP+ EBC yellowstuff etc.) for about $180. Also to note pad surface ares varies hugely by manufacturer as i just replaced my yellowstuff pads with HP+ and the HP+ literally have 15%+ less pad area. Your other consideration for the V2 upgrade and what I'm running now is V2 calipers with V1 rotors. They worked great through the whole life of my EBC yellowstuff pads (show in photos) and now im just getting ready to bed these new HP+ for buttonwillow on Sunday. You can see in the photos there is a lip on the EBC pads where it is not contacting the rotor but it is fairly small. I eventually plan to goto V2 size rotor but this kept the initial investment low and the resulting braking/stopping power very close to what the large rotor with provide.

Also of consideration is the fact that brake pads are wear items and I don't know what size AP racings calipers are but they may use an uncommon size which means more expensive pads. The V2 caliper is shared with the ZL1 and i believe the camaro Z28 so this should help keep a lot of brake pad manufacturers offering that size and a more reasonable cost that a customer caliper company might offer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zOlHBLpk3tU/UjMwfMAzmeI/AAAAAAAAA6c/WBhE8WGV6b0/w958-h573-no/2013-09-13
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cTKATYsiecw/UjMwclSWuFI/AAAAAAAAA6I/U8zSjGvrLvA/w958-h573-no/2013-09-13

AAIIIC
09-13-13, 01:22 PM
Without knowing more information about the calipers and the rotors, I don't think you have enough to differentiate the two setups.
- Why do you think the AP calipers are better than the Brembo calipers? Based on Stillen's website, we know that they are black, but other than the details are pretty scarce. Looking at Brake Pros website (http://www.brake-pros.com/ap-racing-brakes.html) gives a little more info, but not much. Radial mount is better for caliper stability than the OEM style, so they do have that going for them.

[If you want to drool over some brake porn, go to AP's site and look at the calipers in the Race Car section. WOW! The nickel-plated, forged monoblock Radi-Cal calipers are frickin' works of art! :drool:] Browsing through AP's site, I'd guess that Brake Pros is using the CP5555 calipers, as the specs and pictures seem to match up. If you truly want a race caliper, perhaps Brake Pros could substitute one of AP's 6-piston racing calipers instead of using the street caliper? With that said, it looks like the street calipers and race calipers use different radial mount spacing (if I'm reading the specs properly).

- What are the specs on the AP rotors (thickness and # of vanes, principally)?

The V2 pads are massive, but I don't have exact measurements. Here's a picture I took some point last year comparing a V2 pad to a V1 front pad:
http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/Pictures/CTS-V%20pics/Suspension%20and%20Chassis/V2%20brakes/V2%20v%20V1%20pad.jpg

jclayc
09-13-13, 01:36 PM
I agree that the AP Racing kit is probably using CP5555, which don't make me as happy as their true race calipers' description but they do provide knockback springs and assumed-to-be better construction. You're right that I have no basis for that assumption other than charts like this one on BrakePros (http://www.brake-pros.com/apvscomp.html) Like you say AAIIIC, I'd like a bit better caliper but didn't think stillen would break up the kit. Seeing how BrakePros is a division of stillen, I can talk to them.

OneFastV - when you upgraded to the v2 calipers, did you have to drill and tap the knuckles? Did the official v2 GM bolt work or was it a bit too long like I believe I read yooper post?

OneFast V
09-13-13, 02:07 PM
OneFastV - when you upgraded to the v2 calipers, did you have to drill and tap the knuckles? Did the official v2 GM bolt work or was it a bit too long like I believe I read yooper post?

No tapping of the knuckle as the threads are on the caliper itself. It was simply boring out the hole to i believe 14mm which was very simple, than finding 4 V2 caliper bolts (which was a pain in the ass to source locally, drove to 2 different dealerships both 50+ miles away from me and not close to each other) which were the correct length for me.

FuzzyLogic
09-13-13, 02:16 PM
The biggest contributing factor to knockback is wheel bearing rigidity (or lack thereof). If you don't have SKF X-Tracker hubs, don't go spending $4000 on a big brake kit that is disallowed by some regulations. Also, it may be possible to retrofit the V1 and V2 rotors with Brembo anti-knockback springs and seals.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=PFC-Universal-Anti-Knock-Back-Springs&form_prod_id=4856&action=product

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=701&action=product

I believe the V2 front calipers have 44/40mm pistons, and the rear have 30/28mm pistons, but I can check later since I have a full set of front and rears at home.

jclayc
09-13-13, 02:42 PM
Very cool - I didn't realize you could retrofit the knockback springs. (Yes, I've got SKFs.)

FuzzyLogic
09-13-13, 02:57 PM
The owner of Zeckhausen says that you can use Stoptech titanium nosed pistons in Brembo calipers if you know the size. They might be good as a replacement/supplement for titanium shims from Hardbrake. I don't know the right height for the V1/V2 caliper pistons or if these pistons preclude the use of anti-knockback springs. Expensive as hell.

http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=24_213_239_4748&osCsid=3kg66sruiococ4d16gs2r3m4o3

jclayc
09-14-13, 03:19 PM
After finding out more on the calipers in the AP Racing kit (CP7040), I'm going with a v2 setup. I believe the AP Racing calipers have been race proven and must be better than the v2 calipers but mathematically and with no basis to fault the v2 calipers, the v2 setup is the choice.

370mm rotors on the v2; 362mm on the AP Racing kit
30, 34 & 38mm pistons on the v2; 27, 32 & 38mm pistons on the AP Racing calipers
About a 25% bigger pad on the v2
No knockback springs on the CP7040 calipers
Only mod to fit the v2 calipers is to drill out 2 holes a bit
Replacement rings and pads are about equal cost

Jeff James
09-18-13, 01:25 PM
another option would be the Performance Friction Caliper set (if still available). The pad size for any six piston caliper will basically be the same regardless of caliper make or lineage. The AP stuff is awesome as is the Brembo race stuff. Baer has what used to be ALCON, also excellent racing stuff but most REAL race calipers are Radial mount and REQUIRE special expensive brackets.
The V2 calipers IMOHO should be more than adequate with a good pad AND these fit in the OE 18" wheels. <<<<< This is your biggest hurdle.
As for rotors, as mentioned above, look into the ZR1 Car/Cer and since you will save big$ going with the V2 calipers, and are concerned with drilling the 5-6 pattern, have replacement hats made. I am sure that one of the vendors here will be happy to work with you in order to have those pieces available. They could sell a bunch of these,especially if they worked with car/cer and Iron floating rotors. You should be under the $2500.00 number and be way ahead in Performance. In an iron rotor,C/D or slotting does help in a race application and both Rotors AND Pads are consumables. from a wear standpoint, the Car/Cer will hold up way better than any iron rotor. The V2 OE 2 pc. my be the best way to go but you still have to deal with the B/C issue. These are aluminum and are stronger than modified cast iron.

jclayc
09-23-13, 07:19 PM
Updating this thread with a new question: I went with the v2 calipers and 2pc rotors from racingbrake (using SKF hubs). When bolting it all back together, the inside face of the rotor comes in contact with the caliper (see pics below). Anyone else run into this? If I'm able to move the rotor outward by even a few millimeters, it would be enough for the rotor to rotate. Thoughts on putting six washers between the hub and rotor?

http://i.imgur.com/V8Dc7tP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PicpGB6.jpg

here's a pic showing the spacing between the outer side of the rotor and the caliper:
http://i.imgur.com/G8oGE3Z.jpg

Jeff James
09-23-13, 09:16 PM
Essex Co, We have a problem!!! Either the hubs are not right or the RB Hats are not right. Try assembling with the OE Hubs first to check those. If you have the same issue, the hats are too short by a smidge (technical term). If you have good quality shims (Aircraft washers or SS Shim washers, a couple is OK but I would be hesitant to use too many. Find out where the problem is first.

jclayc
09-23-13, 09:41 PM
Seeing how others have run the same RB rotors with the v2 calipers and I haven't read about a problem, I've got to assume its some small difference in the skf hubs vs the stock hubs. Taking everything back apart, taking the hubs out and measuring against the stock hubs is the way to prove this but, even if I do, I'm not ditching the skf hubs so... One 10.9 12M washer on each of the lug studs between the hub and rotor is my likely solution. One washer width seems to provide the 2-3mm gap I need.

Oh, and there was a question about what caliper bolt length would work w/o clearance problems. The v2 bolts are 56.5mm. I'm using 55mm bolts instead and they clear. A 50mm would do fine. A 45mm bolt looks like it'd be a bit short. The knuckle is 23.5mm wide. The caliper bolt holes are 23mm deep/wide.

FuzzyLogic
09-23-13, 10:13 PM
Clay, I checked the comparison pictures of the SKF hubs and the stock hubs and couldn't find a difference. Can you measure the airgap between the rotor and the caliper? I grabbed a caliper and measured my 355mm RB ring, and came up with 8.77mm. Using the Mark 0 Eyeball, I estimate that you have 4-5mm of airgap there. I contacted MIGHTYMOUSE to see if he'll make us a couple pairs of 2-3mm spacers, but I don't know if he has thin enough material (or the inclination).

Here are your pictures of the BR930537 (the front SKF X-Tracker hub):

http://i.imgur.com/JTHE6jH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CmQXjqC.jpg

And here are musclebird05's pictures of the BR930539 (the rear SKF X-Tracker hub):

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h139/musclebird05/caddy%20hubs/IMG_20130328_203004_297.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h139/musclebird05/caddy%20hubs/IMG_20130328_203312_197.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h139/musclebird05/caddy%20hubs/IMG_20130328_203207_713.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h139/musclebird05/caddy%20hubs/IMG_20130328_203326_999.jpg

Production picture differences (BR930537 left with the grey cord, BR930539 right with the white cord)

http://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930537-1.jpghttp://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930539-1.jpg

http://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930537-3.jpghttp://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930539-3.jpg

http://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930537-2.jpghttp://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930539-2.jpg

http://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930537.jpghttp://images.whisystems.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/SKF/BR930539.jpg

jclayc
09-23-13, 10:30 PM
Here are bolts for reference - top to bottom: v1 front caliper bolts, v2 front caliper bolts & 50mm socket cap bolts for reference (I didn't use socket cap)

http://i.imgur.com/munkuAu.jpg

----------

Took some measurements - the rotors are 34.19mm thick. I put M12 10.9 washers on the lug studs that are 2.52mm thick, bolted everything back together and I measured a 2.5mm air gap on each side of the rotor. I can take things back apart tomorrow and measure w/o the washers but my guess is the gaps are 0mm and 5mm "uncorrected".

FuzzyLogic
09-23-13, 10:50 PM
On the subject of the bolts: would you recommend just using V2 bolts? Or if not, which length do you think would be best? Were the lengths that you measured underhead?

The 45mm bolts came in today, and they're so pretty. It's sad that I'm going to have to put them in the recycling bin.

I measured one of my 355mm rings, and it came out to 30.03mm thick. You must have the 370mm rings. That explains the problem right there.

Finally, I would try to avoid using washers because cornering loads are going to be concentrated along a very small area there.

jclayc
09-23-13, 11:19 PM
Yep, I have the 370mm rotors. Re: the washers - here's my quandary: I have Sat and Sunday track days... I doubt I'll have time to source or fab 2.5mm under-rotor spacers. I guess I could run my 355mm 2pc Coleman's up front and shelve the 370s for now... You think even 10.9 washers would squash? (Don't you love when you give an answer and people re-ask you the same question?)

Yes, those are underhead measurements. The 1.5mm difference in the 56.5mm v2 bolts and the 55mm ones I have bolted up gives me a bit of clearance I like. V2 bolts might work but itll be close. 50mm would be ok. 45 might not make it all the way through. If you want my set of v2 bolts just let me know.

OneFast V
09-23-13, 11:28 PM
Have you contacted racing brake yet?

FuzzyLogic
09-23-13, 11:39 PM
Yep, I have the 370mm rotors. Re: the washers - here's my quandary: I have Sat and Sunday track days... I doubt I'll have time to source or fab 2.5mm under-rotor spacers. I guess I could run my 355mm 2pc Coleman's up front and shelve the 370s for now... You think even 10.9 washers would squash? (Don't you love when you give an answer and people re-ask you the same question?)

Yes, those are underhead measurements. The 1.5mm difference in the 56.5mm v2 bolts and the 55mm ones I have bolted up gives me a bit of clearance I like. V2 bolts might work but itll be close. 50mm would be ok. 45 might not make it all the way through. If you want my set of v2 bolts just let me know.

I re-asked the question because I wanted to make absolutely sure that we were on the same page. I'll send you a refund on the bolts shortly.

Will Grade 10.9 washers warp or compress under 4800 lbs of force (4000 lbs * 1.2G)? I don't know. Compressive strength figures aren't available for Grade 10.9 bolts. It's never safe to assume that tensile strength is the same as compressive strength (just look at concrete!). Either way, I don't want to find out. I'd rather use a full-sized aluminum spacer, which I know will not compress because I've been running them on my car for at least a year.


Have you contacted racing brake yet?

Probably not worth it. They probably tested the 370mm rotor with the V1 brake calipers, and it worked fine. Asking them to re-design the part so that we can run V2 calipers unmodified is a low-percentage game.

jclayc
09-23-13, 11:49 PM
*L* I was saying the "ask twice" thing about me asking you 2x about the washers. Don't sweat the bolt money - buy yourself a 12 pack.

RB does market the 370s as being for the v1 to run v2 calipers - can't hurt to call.

OneFast V
09-24-13, 12:11 AM
I re-asked the question because I wanted to make absolutely sure that we were on the same page. I'll send you a refund on the bolts shortly.

Will Grade 10.9 washers warp or compress under 4800 lbs of force (4000 lbs * 1.2G)? I don't know. Compressive strength figures aren't available for Grade 10.9 bolts. It's never safe to assume that tensile strength is the same as compressive strength (just look at concrete!). Either way, I don't want to find out. I'd rather use a full-sized aluminum spacer, which I know will not compress because I've been running them on my car for at least a year.

Compressive strength is ALWAYS higher than tensile strength. It is extremely harder to compress atoms than it is to separate them.




Probably not worth it. They probably tested the 370mm rotor with the V1 brake calipers, and it worked fine. Asking them to re-design the part so that we can run V2 calipers unmodified is a low-percentage game.

If you look on the website they are specifically listed for V1 with V2 caliper upgrade so they were definitely designed and intended for V2 calipers. I am very hard pressed to believe the V1 calipers would even fit over the v2 size rotors.

AAIIIC
09-24-13, 12:21 AM
I have that same combo on my car - SKF hubs, RB 2-piece rotors, V2 calipers. I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one doing so. No caliper-to-rotor interference here. I am running my brake cooling ducts, which go between the hub and spindle in place of that thin metal bracket/shield that holds the ABS wheel sensor harness; the aluminum of the brake cooling ducts is a bit thicker than the original steel bracket was, but probably not even a millimeter difference I would guess.

I've never specifically looked to see how well the rotors are centered in the calipers, but based on a few pad changes I can't say I've noticed any offset one way or the other. If you had discovered this a couple days ago I had a wheel off and could've taken a look.

jclayc
09-24-13, 10:37 AM
yeah, I have no idea why I'm getting interference. The only difference in what I'm running and what AAIIIC has is that I'm not running the steel abs sensor brackets between the spindle and hub & not running my aluminum cooling ducts between either - that 1-2mm may be the difference. Regardless, I've got two plans:
- I ordered 3mm wheel spacers I will drill for 6x115 and reduce in diameter enough to fit inside the rotor hats
- I ordered a small 7075 0.1" aluminum sheet that I'll cut to fit

jclayc
09-25-13, 11:47 PM
Short update: I received the 3mm spacers (http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=160KVXZ9JC21U&C=3TG14KBDH777U&H=DUPHTA79L5DVWXPXCMHJQUSKHZGA&T=C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fdp%2FB00DNNDE4A%2F ref%3Dpe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_S T1_dp_1) and they fit inside the rotor hat. That meant I just had to drill the bolt holes to fit and then expand the inner diameter a bit to fit over the hub centers. Everything went back together and my rotor to caliper gaps look ok - around 3mm inner and 2mm outer.

I've got cobalt friction xr1s on the way for the front but will be running hawk dtc-70s until they arrive. Since I had new raybestos st43s on hand for the rear, that's what I'll be running out back. Time for a re-bleed and some testing tomorrow...

FuzzyLogic
09-26-13, 12:46 AM
jclayc, can you comment on the amount of room you had between the pads and the rotor? I'm planning on ordering either 0.5 or 1.0mm thick titanium shims, and since you're ahead of me on this, I figure I'd ask whether you thought you had any room for them. Also, if you still have those V2 bolts, I might be interested in them. I have to order some stuff from Luke @ Lindsay anyway, so I can just order it there, too.

Titanium V2 Front Caliper Shims (http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=123:8a7752a61bf8f28b416dbbdf362f3f0d) (D1382)

Titanium V1/V2 Rear Caliper Shims (http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31:41d9b81d4ad2f4af13acfed095ecf393) (D592)

jclayc
09-26-13, 08:39 AM
I've got the 0.5mm shims from hard brakes in there now w new pads and they fit fine. 1.0mm would be tough with new pads.

Just pm me about the bolts w your address and I'll send them.

FuzzyLogic
09-26-13, 10:16 AM
My plan has always been to test fit the calipers, rotors, and pads off the car before ordering shims, so I should have a good idea of whether or not there's physically enough room. However, the difference in caliper-to-rotor face spacing because of the fitment issue means that there may not be enough room on one side of the rotor face to use a 1.0mm pad.

thebigjimsho
09-26-13, 09:01 PM
I was the first to buy Ti shims for the V2 from Hard Brakes. Still have them for the front calipers even thought the V is gone...

FuzzyLogic
09-26-13, 09:34 PM
I was the first to buy Ti shims for the V2 from Hard Brakes. Still have them for the front calipers even thought the V is gone...

Are you saying they're for sale? Or are you just going to stare at them? ;)

thebigjimsho
09-26-13, 11:15 PM
Check the CTS classifieds from around February to March...

:-)

FuzzyLogic
09-27-13, 06:55 AM
Just to close the loop: I contacted SKF engineering and received a response stating that the only difference between the BR930537 and the BR930539 are the ABS connector.