: Question about LS7 clutch in CTS



DSTRFL645
09-11-13, 07:51 PM
Need some help from forum members who have LS7 clutch in a CTS. Put in a new flywheel, pressure plate, disc and LS7 slave cylinder. All went in fine, torqued to specs. Installed correct pilot bearing(large one as indicated by how far input shaft protruded from front of bellhousing). Remote bleeder installed and bleed till I was tired of bleeding, no air bubbles. My problem is that clutch is not completely disengaging. Does this setup, since the transmission is evidently further back from the bellhousing, need a spacer under the slave cylinder to allow it to move the clutch fingers further for full release?

PISNUOFF
09-11-13, 08:17 PM
In a V, the C6 (LS7) slave makes up the difference in clutch/pressure plate length when going from a stock dual mass flywheel setup to an LS7. A spacer is only needed if you use a CTS-V slave.

Greg O.
09-12-13, 05:47 AM
Need some help from forum members who have LS7 clutch in a CTS. Put in a new flywheel, pressure plate, disc and LS7 slave cylinder. All went in fine, torqued to specs. Installed correct pilot bearing(large one as indicated by how far input shaft protruded from front of bellhousing). Remote bleeder installed and bleed till I was tired of bleeding, no air bubbles. My problem is that clutch is not completely disengaging. Does this setup, since the transmission is evidently further back from the bellhousing, need a spacer under the slave cylinder to allow it to move the clutch fingers further for full release?


In a V, the C6 (LS7) slave makes up the difference in clutch/pressure plate length when going from a stock dual mass flywheel setup to an LS7. A spacer is only needed if you use a CTS-V slave.

PISINUOFF, knows his sh!t....but damn I am having the same problem....with the exact same clutch and LS7 SLAVE with the Tick remote Bleeder.
I just bought a MOTIVE cannister pump bleeder for about $120bucks ..My friend tried to bleed it yesterday and still no air bubbles. It has to be the bleeding.....cause we manually bled it about 5 days ago and drove it..Could not get reverse and all gears were not really easy to engage.. Then we tried a different method of bleeding as suggested on another forum and now we have no gears....:banghead: Maybe [[[with the Motive bleeder]]] we need someone in the V to pump the clutch????Any suggestions....This is ridiculous.:alchi: Time for a cold one.....GREG O./RADARB8

PISNUOFF
09-12-13, 10:11 AM
There is a self adjusting mechanism on the pressure plate. Sometimes the factory setting isn't perfect. I had this on one LS7 I installed on my car. Since then I always manually adjust before installation. Post #32 shows the procedure. I bled the system seven ways to Sunday with no luck, I even put a vacuum on the system and left it for days. It seemed that after two days there was still air pulling out of the line into the reservoir.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108341&page=2

I would recommend doing this:

1. Pump the pedal a bunch of times.
2. Press the pedal all the way to the floor and side step it a few times to make it release quickly.
3. Drive it around normally until everything warms up then repeat steps 1 & 2.
4. If no change, press the pedal to the floor and quickly rev to 3000 rpm and release the pedal (trans in neutral).
5. If step 4 doesn't help, do with while in gear and only release the pedal until the car jerks forward a bit.



When I bleed mine here is what I do and since the issue I had above, this has worked flawlessly.

0. Use a syringe to empty the reservoir and wipe it out to clean it.
1. Hook up the Motive power bleeder to the reservoir and pressurize the system to about 10 psi.
2. Open the bleeder.
3. Press the pedal 2/3 to the floor a few times.
4. Press the pedal 2/3 to the floor and let it 'snap' back to the top a few times.
5. Make sure clean fluid is coming out of the bleeder and close it.
6. Relieve the system pressure and disconnect the Motive power bleeder.
7. Make sure the reservoir is filled properly and reinstall the cap and rubber plunger (cleaned and dried).

Greg O.
09-13-13, 03:38 AM
Need some help from forum members who have LS7 clutch in a CTS. Put in a new flywheel, pressure plate, disc and LS7 slave cylinder. All went in fine, torqued to specs. Installed correct pilot bearing(large one as indicated by how far input shaft protruded from front of bellhousing). Remote bleeder installed and bleed till I was tired of bleeding, no air bubbles. My problem is that clutch is not completely disengaging. Does this setup, since the transmission is evidently further back from the bellhousing, need a spacer under the slave cylinder to allow it to move the clutch fingers further for full release?

Your e-mail u sent me was funny as sh!t...LMFAO...:dflip: GREG O./RADARB8

lollygagger8
09-17-13, 02:22 PM
I have a Katech slave spacer for sale if anyone is interested PM me.

Charlie Costello
09-22-13, 05:34 PM
I bought the remote bleeder from Mike Yeager at East Coast Performance and finished bleeding in 5 minutes. A must have option.

Greg O.
09-29-13, 09:11 PM
I got the MOTIVE bleeder, but only went to 10psi, and still no air bubbles...want to go to 20psi..Anyone think that will help...[LS7 clutch kit off fleabay...The steel flywheel weighed in at 24 1/2 to 25lbs. I was told it was oem but on the flywheel it does have in small print LUK.....Could this be a LUK flywheel and could it be a little more narrow in thickness.?????? My friends doing the work get all the gears with key off with all the new shifter bushings with a B&M shifter...After using the the Motive @ 10psi they got all the gears running but no reverse,they had to go into 4th or 5th fifth and then got reverse..... then they did a little xtra bleeding to try to get reverse easier and now can not get any gears.:annoyed:....I have been told that a shim is not needed, probably will go to 20psi and do the PISINUOFF's pedal snap back procedure....Anyone chime in especially if u think I don't need a shim....Do NOT want to pull tranny again:banghead: thanks again GREG O./RADARB8

FuzzyLogic
09-29-13, 09:21 PM
"Torqued to specs."

What pressure plate specs? If you used LS7 Corvette specs (72-ish ft-lbs), no wonder the clutch won't disengage. I recommend 48 ft-lbs with blue loctite (ran that way for 15,000 miles on a LS7 clutch with no problems), but you're more than welcome to use the V1 spec: 52 ft-lbs. Either way, with that torque, the clutch should operate correctly, and it won't be engaging right off the floor.

Greg O.
10-03-13, 01:59 AM
"Torqued to specs."

What pressure plate specs? If you used LS7 Corvette specs (72-ish ft-lbs), no wonder the clutch won't disengage. I recommend 48 ft-lbs with blue loctite (ran that way for 15,000 miles on a LS7 clutch with no problems), but you're more than welcome to use the V1 spec: 52 ft-lbs. Either way, with that torque, the clutch should operate correctly, and it won't be engaging right off the floor.

I used 73ish on the 25lb. flywheel and 48tq on the pp....new ls7 slave, Motive bled, LS7 clutch kit...and still having problems getting gears while ideling. DAMN.............................................. :ill::ill: Might have to take PISSINUOFF's suggestion and pull the sucker out and adj. pp...