View Full Version : Torque strut removal and "engine tilt"

04-06-05, 11:00 AM
I was wondering how to tilt the engine to gain access to the AC blower. After undoing the dogbones--then what? WHere should the engine be supported in order to tilt it? Will a jack work?

What happens to the exhaust system when the tilt takes place--strain? Why is this procedure not included in the service manual (instead revised protocol on there is to remove valve cover, yikes!).



PS Total rookie here, wanting to learn the ropes

04-06-05, 12:20 PM
Is it safe to assume you are not having the blower motor done by the dealer and are going to give it another try. The engine should only need to be tilted an inch or so, so there should not be too much stress on the exhaust. In my case, as I told you I tried it to no avail. I suspect maybe a mount underneath needs to be loosened as removing the dogbones did nothing for me. Like I had said, in desperation, I used a pry bar like a shoe horn and forced it in. Worked like a charm. I'm interested to hear responses to the engine tilt question.

04-06-05, 12:29 PM
Thanks Ranger.

I couldn't even get a wrench on the bottom screws of the housing--if the tilt method is not too bad, I'd be willing to try that. Otherwise I have a brand new OEM AC delco blower motor with GM warranty in the box--that I'm sure the dealer won't want to use (they make money on parts too), that I have to sell to recover investment.

I don't like the idea of the exhaust bending as the engine is tilted. I suppose the transmission would be fine, because the tilt is on the same axis as the wheel spin... does that mean the car has to be in neutral in order to be able to tilt the engine? maybe that was the problem in your case?



04-06-05, 05:27 PM
You can buy engine tilters that replace the dogbones and let you tilt the engine forward a little to give enough room. Search on the web and you'll find several different style and prices. I posted this (and some examples ) a few weeks ago.

04-07-05, 12:19 AM

I didn't need the tilt tool to change out the blower.
Here in Canada, at Canadian Tire stores, they have a "loan a tool" program, like Autozone, etc. The above tool is available for loan... for free.

When I changed my blower, it was also a chore to get the bottom bolts. I had to use a flex-socket and a smaller 1/4" socket wrench. When I installed the new blower I had a difficult time too. The secret: You have to compress the bottom of the plastic cage to get it into the hole. The cage has some flex to it. Don't compress it too hard, just enough to get it to fit into the hole.

See my previous post.

04-07-05, 01:21 AM
On my Deville there must be a little more room to work with as it wasn't necessary to tilt the engine but the fit was very tight. By unplugging and loosening the wiring in this area I was able to get the old motor worked out but the new one just wasn't going back in. I took my Dremel tool with a rough sanding roll and slightly enlarged the top side of the hole that is cut out in the firewall. The enlarged area was no more than 1/16" and I stayed away from the mounting screw holes. It is still completely covered by the lip of the motor. This modification allowed the new motor to slip right on in. It took about 3 sanding rolls to do this and compressing the plastic cage wasn't necessary. Good luck.


04-07-05, 04:00 AM
I changed the blower on my 93 N* Eldo without doing anything to the engine. It was a pain to get to the bottom mounting bolts and I needed a shoehorn to get it out and in, but I got it done. Actually, there is a removable piece of the blower housing (on the firewall) which comes out to make it easier to take the blower out. I don't recall exactly where it is, but when I noticed it, I was like "Duh!". Taking that piece out allows the blower to be tilted and removed.

You might have to also take the spark plug wires out of the way (I did).

You also need to score the soft plastic cover (and crack it open).

Mine was already done as it looked like the blower was already replaced once.


04-07-05, 03:12 PM
If you take the dog bones off and simply rock the car back and forth against the parking pawl in the trans you will see the engine move several inches......try it. You can probably use that method the easiest. Rock it back and forth to buid up the momentum each time and have a chock handy to stuff in back of the tire when it rolls forward with enough force. The mounts do not have to be taken loose as there is quite a bit of "play" or compliance in the lower mounts that simply support the weight of the engine. The exhaust is made to move as there is a slip joint on the down pipe to allow movement like this. A transverse mounted engine moves quiet a bit anyway during normal operation so the exhaust contends with this all the time. Open your hood, put the trans in drive and power brake the engine against the trans lightly and watch the engine in the engine compartment. Do this in drive and reverse. You can see how much it is designed to move around. Taking the dog bones off just makes it easier to rock the engine to gain some clearance between the rear cam cover and the
firewall to work the HVAC motor in.

04-07-05, 03:59 PM
Yup, I just tried it and there was some movement of the engine but not much with the dogbones in place. I suspect with them removed I might have had just enough clearance to get that sucker in without the persuader. Wish I knew this before I had to do the job. School of hard knocks..... the test comes before the lesson.