View Full Version : Water Crossover installation - 1997 Seville

09-02-13, 05:45 AM

Saw a few posts on this and decided to share what worked for me.

Step 1: Attach the gaskets to the WC with rubber bands. Make sure the two bottom ones are very secure. The right side is easy the left a little trickier. After that install onto the WC the two lower right bolts and the bottom left lower bolt.

Step 2: There is heater pipe hose that needs to be attached after installation. For now push that hose fully onto the heater pipe

Step 3: Time to mount the WC. As you work the lower right side in down below the wire harness the lower right bolt tip should slide into the engine outlet hole. This is okay, it allows you to push the bolt all the way into the WC so you can get it around the wire harness. Once it's past the harness push it back out of the WC. The side of the transmission will keep it from falling out. Now you can get the second lower bolt under the harness easily. To manipulate the harness I created a small chain hoist to pull it up and a large 18" long screwdriver to manipulate it.
When you finsih that work the lower left bolt under the harness at that end.

Step 4: Install three of the top bolts to line up the WC. Start with the one behind the water pump then the upper bolt on the right side and then the other left side upper bolt. Just get the bolts started and then a couple turns to keep them steady do not snug them yet.

Step 5: Now its time to tackle the lower bolts. Start with lower left bolt already installed in the WC. If you haven't already opened up your book of curse words now is a good time for that. Use a screwdriver to pry up the wire harness making sure it doesn't pop out from under the WC. The three first bolts you installed should stop this from happening but watch out for it. Again just get this bolt and all the other bolts started do not snug them yet. The other lower left bolt should be easier to get in and started just takes some manual dexterity. If you have problems getting it into postion try using one of those mechanics magnets on a telescoping pole to lower it into place and keep it from dropping. After that it's time for those pesky lower right side bolts. I found it easier to climb up and lay myself across the engine to get at them. The good news is that because you've already installed the other bolts these two will be perfectly lined up with their holes. Pull the harness up enough so you can slide the upper bolt into its hole and get it started. Once its secure you can use it to keep the harness away from the lower bolt while you get it started. Again do not snug these bolts yet.

Step 6: Install that heater hose and the egr pipe right next to it on the upper right side of the WC. These two pipes don't exactly line up. This is why you didn't snug any of the bolts yet, you should have just enough jiggle to get the pipes closer to lined up. I took a large plastic washer and cut it in half to place behind the hose for better leverage and to equalize the force need to pull that hose off the heater pipe and onto the WC pipe. If you need more leverage hold the washer or whatever you use in place and get a screwdriver or pry bar and use that crossmember bar between the struts to lever it towards the WC.

Step 7: Remove the rubber bands holding the washers in place. I took an old wire clothes hanger, straightened it out and form a little hook one one end to get the lower bands off and out.
When you get all the bands cut and out place them side by side to make sure they are all the same size (meaning you didn't leave any pieces behind).

Step 7: Time to get all the bolts snugged up. Start at the top and work your way down left - right - left - right. On the bottom ones it's easier if you do the lower bolts first not that they are going to be easy though.
Once you get the lower right side partially in you can get a small 1/4" socket in there if the ratchet wrench is being a pain. On the left lowers, the top once partially installed can be reached with a regular socket on an extension. Just push it under the harness (the socket). Be aware there is snug and there is bolts are in but the rubber gasket asn't compressed yet, makes a difference when doing the calculations in step 8.

Step 8: Torque them bolts. Unless you have a 5" long 1/4" drive torque wrench those three lower bolts you installed at the beginning are not going to be tightened with a torque wrench. What I did was I snugged that one easy to get to top left bolt with the ratchet wrench then torqued it, marked the bolt and WC then backed it off and retightened it with the ratchet wrench to get a feel for how much force was needed to do those three bolts.

Step 9: Reattach everything else. IE: Water pump cover/Park-Neutral switch/Fuel rail and injectors/EGR valve etc.

Here's the tools I used,the gooseneck halogen light really helps with the lower rights


09-02-13, 09:22 AM
Good writeup. Moved to Cadillac Tech Tips.

09-02-13, 05:06 PM
Just one more job I'll never do again that I've become an expert at. Cadillacs....the ultimate love hate experience.