: Transmission area wrapped w/RattleTrap 80mil



philistine
09-01-13, 09:47 PM
The OEM dampener/shield covering the transmission area needed to be retired. So I purchased RattleTrap 80mil and installed it to replace the OEM stuff.

Here is a pic of the OEM stuff. It was loose, brittle, and if touched...got airborne with fiberglass material. I wore a mask to remove this and took a good shower afterwards.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01193642_zpsb2f1c2c6.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01193642_zpsb2f1c2c6.jpg.html)

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01193657_zps5f1117d9.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01193657_zps5f1117d9.jpg.html)

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01193716_zps4834ca85.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01193716_zps4834ca85.jpg.html)

Here I am installing the RattleTrap dampening material. You have to cut reliefs to get the air bubbles out and roll it on really tight. I cleaned it thoroughly with brake cleaner. This stuff is really sticky and adheres almost immediately.

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01195302_zps0e7b0862.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01195302_zps0e7b0862.jpg.html)

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01195318_zps0bb371f0.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-01195318_zps0bb371f0.jpg.html)

I purchased it from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUNRGM/ref=pe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ ST1_dp_1

Thanks for looking!

HAMSTAR
09-01-13, 09:50 PM
Looks great!

kyle242gt
09-01-13, 09:56 PM
What was the reason for the change? Just because the OEM stuff was ugly? Curious...

philistine
09-01-13, 10:15 PM
What was the reason for the change? Just because the OEM stuff was ugly? Curious...

I have the entire drivetrain removed for replacement/mods. The OEM shielding stuff was disintegrating so it was the perfect time for replacement. The cabin should be more quiet with the RattleTrap installed.

barrok69
09-02-13, 10:11 AM
I have the entire drivetrain removed for replacement/mods. The OEM shielding stuff was disintegrating so it was the perfect time for replacement. The cabin should be more quiet with the RattleTrap installed.

I don't want to come off sounding like a dick.... but you just replaced a heatshield with a sound deadener that is isn't meant to reflect and dissipate the massive amount of heat that gets generated and shoved up in that trans tunnel area. I've used this stuff before inside the cabin of my old car and the tar based backing actually melted off the body from the heat generated inside my car with windows up on a sunny day. I ended up having "drips" of tar running down my pillars and other surfaces (I didn't have trim installed for a while). And at that point the thin aluminized surface just de-bonds and does nothing.

So caution to all... this stuff isn't really meant for exterior of the vehicle. It will end up getting too hot, melt, de-bond and make a nice mess of whatever is underneath it, covering it in gooey tar that is next to impossible to get cleaned up.

Ideally you want a flexible aluminum shelled multi-layer fiberglass piece of insulation that has an air gap to the trans tunnel to dissipate the heat from even getting to the tunnel surface.

philistine
09-02-13, 03:20 PM
I don't want to come off sounding like a dick.... but you just replaced a heatshield with a sound deadener that is isn't meant to reflect and dissipate the massive amount of heat that gets generated and shoved up in that trans tunnel area. I've used this stuff before inside the cabin of my old car and the tar based backing actually melted off the body from the heat generated inside my car with windows up on a sunny day. I ended up having "drips" of tar running down my pillars and other surfaces (I didn't have trim installed for a while). And at that point the thin aluminized surface just de-bonds and does nothing.

So caution to all... this stuff isn't really meant for exterior of the vehicle. It will end up getting too hot, melt, de-bond and make a nice mess of whatever is underneath it, covering it in gooey tar that is next to impossible to get cleaned up.

Ideally you want a flexible aluminum shelled multi-layer fiberglass piece of insulation that has an air gap to the trans tunnel to dissipate the heat from even getting to the tunnel surface.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I did a test using a piece of 12 gauge stainless steel, the FatMat RattleTrap Extreme 80mils and a Milwaukee 1220 heat gun. The heat gun has 2 settings 750F and 1000F.

Here I have the heat gun about 2 inches away on 750F. The specimen is positioned at 45 degree angle. I heated it for about 15 minutes. With my bare hands I touched the backside of the plate directly behind the RattleTrap material...bad idea, gave me a good blister! The RattleTrap didn't move or become gooey. Wearing gloves, I pushed on the material to see if it was soft and if I could get it to slide off - nothing! It was a bit softer but no goo and would not budge.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133152_zps4609e17c.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133152_zps4609e17c.jpg.html)


Not satisfied, I set the heat gun to high (1000F). I wanted to melt this stuff off! I heated it for another 15 minutes at 2 inches away. The black bonding material began to show some fatigue.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133637_zps9e96ed90.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133637_zps9e96ed90.jpg.html)

I let it cool down for about 2 minutes. It did not slide down or melt with gooey stuff dripping from around the material. I pinched a corner and decided to rip this stuff off since gravity can't do the job. The stuff looks a little wet when you peel it.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133751_zps5015baee.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133751_zps5015baee.jpg.html)

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133843_zps8400ecc4.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02133843_zps8400ecc4.jpg.html)

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02134037_zps2a48dc3e.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/cts-v_misc/2013-09-02134037_zps2a48dc3e.jpg.html)

You can draw your own conclusions. I didn't perform a fatigue test at 300-400F. This was just a quick test exposing the material to high temps, 750-1000F. I hope my floor boards don't see that kind of abuse. The material becomes very soft at 1000F for 15 minutes and is quite possible to get some movement.

Another possible application is to reattach the transmission heatshield over the RattleTrap.

Personally, I'm satisfied and gonna take the risk.

Also to correct you, it is a heat shield and not just dampening material - facts are facts!

philistine
09-18-13, 10:10 PM
I got some constructive feedback on LS1tech and here so I installed a single piece of DEI heatshield over the the RattleTrap Extreme. Here are the pics and details.


I overlayed the RattleTrap Extreme with DEI tunnel shield. This stuff is very sticky on contact.

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-14143500_zpscd277c0d.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-14143500_zpscd277c0d.jpg.html)

I taped up the RattleTrap seams with DEI cool tape. The tunnel shield lays over it and is single piece and bolted in with factory fasteners. I used a 48"x42" piece. I had to hammer it in with a rubber mallet in most of the areas. This shielding is very rigid and has a fiberglass layer.

There are sound barriers and sound dampening...this is a combo of both. Just to compare, interior car floor panels usually get the following sandwich treatment:
1. sound deadening material to eliminate resonance (dynamat, Fatmat, etc)
2. isolation layer (decoupler) to separate the sheet metal from the sound barrier (foam)
3. sound barrier to block the sound (mass loaded vinyl or MLV)

I still haven't road tested it because I'm doing a lot of mods. I think the FatMat Rattle Trap extreme and DEI tunnel shield are a decent combo. You get the heatshielding, fiberglass isolation layer, and then resonance barrier.

For the paranoid untrusting types with the FatMat RattleTrap Extreme or any other resonance barrier product, you can always just use the DEI tunnel shield (solo) to replace the OEM piece.




I measured it using a piece of string and tape. I needed to get the curved dimensions of the larger area (towards the motor) and the smaller going back aft.

Here's a few pics:

First I taped up the RattleTrap Extreme seams with DEI cool tape.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-13230228_zps6d668ba2.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-13230228_zps6d668ba2.jpg.html)

Now starts the DEI tunnel shield. Here is a single piece of 48"x42". Notice the 48" level next to it.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-13211301_zps48f373a7.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-13211301_zps48f373a7.jpg.html)

Here is the sketch for the cuts after taking measurements. I left out the length because you might want to take it the entire length. I personally trimmed to a total length of 44" (front to back).
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/756a909c-1d8e-47df-bf3b-b26c3941e54c_zpsfa34d708.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/756a909c-1d8e-47df-bf3b-b26c3941e54c_zpsfa34d708.jpg.html)

After cutting according to the sketch it looks like this.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-13225704_zps1ec97708.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-13225704_zps1ec97708.jpg.html)

From that single piece of 48"x42" you should only have these scraps left over from those cuts.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-18192210_zpsfc8b520c.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-18192210_zpsfc8b520c.jpg.html)

Installing it can be time consuming. I drew a centerline but as you can see, I got off the mark - that is ok because extra material was included in the measurements to compensate for the offset. This is looking towards the rear.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-18185217_zps5d1ab64b.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-18185217_zps5d1ab64b.jpg.html)

You have to cut the holes for the different ports. I used a hammer and center punch to find the bolt holes.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-18185240_zps2ffde0f1.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-18185240_zps2ffde0f1.jpg.html)

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-18185154_zpsbe03d168.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-18185154_zpsbe03d168.jpg.html)

As you work it with your hands and rubber mallet to form it you will have to trim a small corner piece on each side.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-18192223_zps20aee69f.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-18192223_zps20aee69f.jpg.html)

This is all the left-over pieces from the the DEI single sheet 48"x42" tunnel shield.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/2013-09-18192310_zpsf8ccc069.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/2013-09-18192310_zpsf8ccc069.jpg.html)

I imagine different methods to install it would be used based on skill and experience. Basically, I peeled off the tape and started pressing it in on the centerline without touching the sides - it's not easy but not too hard either. You work that centerline perfect before touching the sides - get them air bubbles out. Then you press the sides...centerline working outwards.

I hope that helps.

DEI 050503 4' x 42" Floor And Tunnel Shield - 14 sq. ft : Amazon.com : Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEO5W8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item)