: axle flush



juiceE
03-31-05, 03:20 PM
i did a search because i coulda swore i read a post about this b4, but couldnt find one.

I want to flush the old lube an put some new in. I didn't see any plugs on the bottom of it, so do i have to take all the bolts out and take it apart?

and if i do, should i check anything else out in there while im down there?

dont tell me im gona have to use a turkey baster or someish to get the new lube back in there:confused:

is the "transaxle shift linkage" near there too?, might as well lube that thing up.

N0DIH
03-31-05, 04:36 PM
My 1976 FSM says to remove cover, pull as much old oil out as possible (I used an old rag to scoop it out), replace cover (keep old gasket on if intact so as not to destroy a new one), add to fill with 30 weight NON DETERGENT oil (I have heard "SA" oil is non detergent). GENTLY drive slowly and do a series of figure 8's, then remove that oil, resinstall cover with new gasket, and then fill with recommended weight and type of gear oil.

I would look for the mesh pattern of the teeth, are they matching well (see FSM for details) and look for broken or damaged teeth. This is for all gears, ring, pinion, spider and side gears.

93-96 Fleetwood Broughams don't have a transaxle, so no. The transmission shift linkage is on the transmission, drivers side. Find FSM for lube recommendations if there are any. Ford was common to have you use 5W30 to lube linkage connections.

Walmart and other stores have an axle lube pump that you can pump in the new oil with. Cheap, and well worth it. Unless you have room to stick the whole bottle up there.

juiceE
03-31-05, 05:03 PM
Ooh Man, Here Goes Another Mishap... :yup:

N0DIH
03-31-05, 07:48 PM
I did it on my 76 Delta 88 Royale, wasn't bad at all...

Just that smell from the oil....

Katshot
03-31-05, 10:58 PM
Most times, I'd tell you to leave it alone unless there's a leak but if you REALLY want to open up the rear and change the fluid, here's a few things you'll need to do and few things to look at.
1. If you open the rear and remove the lock pin, and only the head section comes off, screw it back in and forget going any further. To go any further "could" be very costly and I wouldn't advise it unless there's actually a known problem with the rear.
2. The only way to "flush" the rear housing is to completely disassemble the rear (minus the pinion gear) and flush with a solvent.
3. If you do that, prepare to replace the axle seals, and possibly both axles and the carrier lock pin.
4. Once you pull the axles, inspect the bearing area for pitting and/or any grooves cut into them by the bearings.
5. Once you remove the carrier assembly, make sure you keep the Left and Right service spacers (or shims) from both sides of the carrier seperated and replace them on the same sides when re-assembling.
6. Upon refilling the rear, make sure to use the "proper" lube.

ocjmakaveli
04-01-05, 02:16 AM
Most times, I'd tell you to leave it alone unless there's a leak but if you REALLY want to open up the rear and change the fluid, here's a few things you'll need to do and few things to look at.
1. If you open the rear and remove the lock pin, and only the head section comes off, screw it back in and forget going any further. To go any further "could" be very costly and I wouldn't advise it unless there's actually a known problem with the rear.
2. The only way to "flush" the rear housing is to completely disassemble the rear (minus the pinion gear) and flush with a solvent.
3. If you do that, prepare to replace the axle seals, and possibly both axles and the carrier lock pin.
4. Once you pull the axles, inspect the bearing area for pitting and/or any grooves cut into them by the bearings.
5. Once you remove the carrier assembly, make sure you keep the Left and Right service spacers (or shims) from both sides of the carrier seperated and replace them on the same sides when re-assembling.
6. Upon refilling the rear, make sure to use the "proper" lube.

I agree with katshot the only times I myself would recommend a lube change would be under severe service use as in constant towing conditions or very very hot weather conditions.

Otherwise under normal use most vehicles never have it changed EVER and they run fine till the end of the life of the car.

If you do though buy a siphoning kit and siphon it out and just add new fluid in the hole which is on the right side of the diff.

Yet you won't notice any difference in replacing fluid and you won't get any performance etc. either the parts will last just as long.

Spend the money and time on more important things.

Why did you think about doing this anyway?

juiceE
04-01-05, 10:41 AM
I went on https://www.mygmlink.com and it showd a list of maintence:
Rear Axle Fluid Change
Past Due
Interval: Every 7500 miles as the weight of the trailer increases or when towing in hilly or mountainous terrain
Next due at: 7500 miles
Next due date: 09/05/2002


ooh yea, plus my shifting feels late and hard @ 1st gear an maybe 2nd... and im too scarey to service the tranny :hide:

ocjmakaveli
04-01-05, 03:18 PM
I went on https://www.mygmlink.com (https://www.mygmlink.com/) and it showd a list of maintence:
Rear Axle Fluid Change
Past Due
Interval: Every 7500 miles as the weight of the trailer increases or when towing in hilly or mountainous terrain
Next due at: 7500 miles
Next due date: 09/05/2002


ooh yea, plus my shifting feels late and hard @ 1st gear an maybe 2nd... and im too scarey to service the tranny :hide:

my shifting has the same problem now with 50,000 miles it shifts late and hard maybe a 1/2 second delay but it's noticeable. Happened after some hard driving last year.

The diff oil change won't affect that at all this problem can only be fixed my rebuilding the trans and Torque Converter.

juiceE
04-01-05, 03:36 PM
yea i figured that, its not too bad though, but noticable (probably only to me), i just didnt wanna get it serviced cuz i figure tranny work gona be a few $$$.

and i still have to do a 4 way wheel alignment that iv been draggin on doing since i dropped it, so i gota get a quality job done, not any ol sears job.

ocjmakaveli
04-01-05, 03:45 PM
yea i figured that, its not too bad though, but noticable (probably only to me), i just didnt wanna get it serviced cuz i figure tranny work gona be a few $$$.

and i still have to do a 4 way wheel alignment that iv been draggin on doing since i dropped it, so i gota get a quality job done, not any ol sears job.

A wheel alignment is a necessity or else your wheels will deform especially on a thin tire.

I learned the hard way and had to replace a pair of my tires because I took too long to align them and then the car wouldn't go straight after because the tires became unbalanced. the car would wander after i aligned them. new tires fixed the problem though.