View Full Version : LT1Edit?

03-17-05, 02:27 PM
Does anyone have LT1Edit?

Been thinking of getting it to play...


03-17-05, 03:17 PM
I've been using it on my car from day 1. Great program but NOT for the beginner. There's a few others out there that are much more user-freindly for the beginner. Of course my software IS pretty old, maybe they have a newer version. Either way, MY version works great. They have a web email list that is populated by some of the smartest guys you'd ever want to meet concerning PCM programming and performance tuning. Anytime you have a question there's someone there to help you.

03-17-05, 03:37 PM
Can you get live sensor readings while you drive? Sort of like a Laptop Scan Tool?

Like to monitor ESC, coolant temp, O2 cross counts, Integrator and Block Learn values?

I miss that from my 91 Deville. You can learn a lot from those readings.


03-17-05, 09:23 PM
You might want to look into datamaster also. ttspowersystems (http://www.ttspowersystems.com/diagnostic.htm)

If you buy the hookup cable from www.akmcables.com you can buy the licsense for the program from him for a lot less

03-17-05, 10:47 PM
What is special about the cables that they are so expensive?

A simple USB to OBDI cable shouldn't be $90. I would expect more like $20. Is there more to it?


03-18-05, 09:02 AM
Check out:
They're the makers of LT1-Edit (and several others). They also work with AKM Cables too, and there's a link to thier site from the Carputing site. I have the AKM cables for my laptop. They also offer a free data logger on their site which works great. I use it to monitor for timing being pulled because of knock sensor input. When I was re-curving my ignition timing tables, I'd always follow it up with a test drive while monitoring for knock retard.

03-18-05, 12:51 PM
That is what I am looking for. So I don't need LT1-Edit to log or monitor, just to actually tweak the code. But I do want to later on. My goals are fuel economy mainly, as I drive a lot (500-600 miles a week), so whatever I can do it worth something.... But weekend fun is always a possibilty....

But I do want to monitor timing and such to see if the ESC is getting into the picture.

Anyone use an LT4 knock module? Been thinking of that too, my drivers side valvetrain is sorta noisy compared to the pass side. Can I adjust like an old SBC?


03-18-05, 01:12 PM
I've seen where many people seem to use them but I think it's due to their just doing a highly publicized mod, not that they have ever checked to see if they need it or not. In my case, I'm not picking up knock even with a few extra degrees of advance, so I haven't thought about doing the LT4 module mod. From what I understand, it comes in useful on cars with headers.

03-18-05, 03:52 PM
Which is why I want to monitor the knock sensor input and timing to see what is really going and if it is really needed.

I want to take each step as being well documented on why, and look for a certain result, and then change back to verify the result is valid before I keep the change. I know, it takes a long time, but much of why to do it that way is standard engineering practice, and watching the results of Jim Hand on his 473 Pontiac, it moves a 4000 lb Wagon to the tune of 11.30's. And with 3.55 gears and no trick parts, a carb, no bottle, no forced induction, just well documented mods that work. I don't see why a 350 powered Cadillac with 4600# can't be in the mid 13's as opposed to only running 15's or even 14's with lots of $$ in mods.

If anyone wants to read up on Jim Hand's car:

Am I saying I am going to run 12's or faster? No, not with a SBC and keep it drivable. But I do expect that we should have people dipping into the 13's. My 301 Turbo Pontiac ran 14.21@97.3 mph with a stock long block and stock boost. No headers, no trick exhaust (no cat, stock pipes), just simple things like a recurved ignition, K&N and a stone stock Q-Jet. Even 3.08's. The car weighed 4030 lbs with no one in it. Why are our LT1's so "slow"???

Note that Jim's first 455 was a 12 second car with all factory parts. And it was drivable with the A/C on and power brakes. It has moved beyond that now, and currently is back to being a 11.80's car due to mods that were intentionally done to test out different theories and drivability experiements.


03-18-05, 05:16 PM
Your approach is exactly the same as mine was/is. I can't tell you how many times I get into arguments over that very issue. When I see someone do multiple mods prior to doing testing, I just shake my head. Trying to explain the theory to them is useless, all you get is a good flaming on internet forums and message boards if you try.
That's why I'm especially proud of my FTS. Pulling 14.4's and 14.5's with the mods I have is rare. Matter of fact, I was told that I have the best E/T of any "bolt-on" Fleetwood by the guy that keeps the national stats.
You don't need half the crap that many people put on their cars for purpose of making them go fast, and quite often people utilize conflicting mods because they either don't truely understand the technical aspects of their cars, or haven't properly planned their mods. It's all in the setup.
Your mods should build on one another. It must be understood that your mods have is a "cumulative" affect on your car, and each one needs to be in the positive direction.
I'll be interested to see your progress. Make sure you post here as you go.

03-18-05, 06:20 PM
So I am not the only one who wants to wring the necks of the car mag guys who do 2 and 3 "mods" at once and are so proud that they spent $400 to gain 7 hp? What gave them the 7 hp? Mod 1, 2 or 3?

Or like a recent article I read "Rocker arm swap for an LT1", and they did the rocker arms and a adj fuel pressure regulator and upped the pressure to 50 psi. What the heck??? Well? What gave you the 20 hp improvement? (it was a supercharged car) The rockers? The fuel pressure? A bad pressure reg that you just replaced? What?

Frustrating to say the least.

Jim Hand has done a commendable job on his 71 GTO Wagon. He analyzes the part swap, makes a solid before (repeatable!!!) runs, several of them, and makes his change, runs several repeatable runs, and then swaps back. Yes boys and girls, intakes, cams, lifters, the like. He will run it one way, then back and analyze the data from the runs to ensure he is seeing exactly what he sould be. They guy is a master at the dragstrip. He son also is.

What got me impressed is when he ran a 12.2 in the 1/4mi, running ALL factory parts. Even a mild "068" cam in his 455, THM400 and 3.08's. Yes, 3.08's. He then swapped in 3.73's. What happened? It showed the mph down and the time was the exact same. So why? Over the years of swapping he has determined what works with what, what is good and what is bad and has a car that runs 11's and is daily drivable. The car is never trailered to the track and is enjoyable one to drive. Not too many cars out there are like that. And let alone, over 4000#.

Keep up the good work Kat, what you are doing is the right way. People are always looking for the quick mod they can buy to make more power. From snake oils to "tornados" People will buy whatever they can that someone claims a dyno improvement.

Even port CFM and throttle body CFM is a big controversial issue. More isn't always better. Port velocity is important, CFM is far less important. If Jim Fueling can make 500+ hp on 1.7in/1.3in valves, you can rest assured that CFM isn't everything....

I hope to get a set of LT1 heads (alum) to play and port with. I know the Iron heads are rumored to flow more, but my concern is to lighten the car also. I am planning on building me a flow bench and do my own porting.

Oh, and BTW. Jim runs 2.5in exhuast. And 11.30's. So, no, don't waste $$ on a fancy exhaust. He ran 12.20's with a 455 with 2.25". And numerous pipe tests to prove that out too.