: 20" wheels, dropped v1, what offset, what width, I'm confused.



Silencertk
08-10-13, 05:14 AM
Cts-v v1
I'm stationed in Germany and want to pick up some wheels stateside - so they have to fit because sending them back won't reallly be an option.

wheel: lexani r-six
size: 208.5 / 20x10
tire: probably 235/35/20 in the front - no idea in the back.

if you look an my other thread youll see my v1 is pretty low. so ine concern of course is fender clearance.

superbuytires proposed 20x8.5 with a +38mm offset. 40mm for the rear on a 275/30/20 tire.

elemetwheels said i have to get a +28mm offset with that wheel to clear the brake calipers.
and that i should get 8.5 all the way around because i would need bodywork if i go with 10s in the rear

factory we have 18x8.5 +42mm offset (right? ) so wouldn't my new shoes just have to have the exact same offset to clear everything? and with the smaller tire - it should be even easier to clear everything?

I'm confused.

AAIIIC
08-10-13, 08:41 AM
If you're not comfortable rolling your fenders, then don't get 10" wide wheels. That's the only "body work" required.



factory we have 18x8.5 +42mm offset (right? )
Yes.



...so wouldn't my new shoes just have to have the exact same offset to clear everything?
No. Offset alone doesn't tell you much - you have to know the width to know whether the offset is right.



and with the smaller tire - it should be even easier to clear everything?
If you choose the right wheel, there's absolutely no reason to go with a narrower tire.

Silencertk
08-10-13, 09:18 AM
okay so 20x8.5 with a 42mm offset will work for the front.

and for the rear theres no offset that i can choose to accommodate the 10" wheel without rolling the fender.

as for the "right" wheel - I'm guessing that this one - with the above mentioned setup is the right wheel. and the narrower tire will give me some extra room to add a few mm more clearance. because even the factory setup rubs a little on some sharp turns during bumps

mberisha
08-11-13, 05:50 AM
My $.02....w/all the variables for possibly getting wheels that may not fit. Take the money you'd spend/waste on 20in rims and buy an unlimited lap year-long pass (1,475 euros) for the Nurburgring!

Plus you'll still have money left over to buy a cool "Ring" sticker to put on your rear-passenger window... :highfive:


135225

http://www.nuerburgring.de/en/angebote/motor-action/tourist-rides-nordschleife.html



"Prices for tourist rides Nordschleife in 2013:

1 lap Nordschleife:
26,-

4 laps Nordschleife:
97,-

9 laps Nordschleife:
202,-

25 laps Nordschleife:
499,-

Annual ticket Nordschleife 2013:
1.475,- "

Silencertk
08-11-13, 07:46 AM
I'll pass on the ring all year pass. the autobahn is way more fun with my cadillac "sleeper"

Mn800r
08-15-13, 10:40 PM
I would be very careful on rims...I have forgestars W/H&R springs....what a mess this has been!. Currently I have 4 spacers on the rear and 2 in the front so I can drive it mildly with a 1/2 tank of gas and just me. I miss being able to drive this car the way I used to!.

Silencertk
08-16-13, 02:50 AM
great :(
I already ordererd 20x8.5 +38mm (including 3mm spacers in case) wheels on 235/35/20 rubbers.

AAIIIC
08-16-13, 07:07 AM
I have forgestars W/H&R springs....what a mess this has been!. Currently I have 4 spacers on the rear and 2 in the front so I can drive it mildly with a 1/2 tank of gas and just me. I miss being able to drive this car the way I used to!
:confused:

Mn800r
08-17-13, 02:25 PM
:confused:

Sorry...spring spacers that raised the car 1/2 in.

Johnson
08-17-13, 07:08 PM
136938I have 20x8.5 245/35 front and 20x10 rear 285/30 on my car with H&R Springs. The springs have settled a lot over time and rub on bumps when turning in the front, but I have learned to work around it but will be going with coil overs soon. When the springs were new I had no clearance issues.

WesH8398
08-17-13, 08:19 PM
To the OP - you're going to have a battle on your hands. Especially with trying to run 20's and 300's in the rear. There's a PLETHORA of information around this forum on this very topic, and it's too bad you didn't do some serious research before you went and dropped all that money on what you bought. I guess we're past that point now though, so I'll try to offer some help...

I went through all these troubles a year and a half or so ago, and I have a number of threads that I started and that I chimed in on regarding the issues of a) my H&R's lowering my car WAAAY more than advertised, b) my 285 tires rubbing bad in the rear, c) The modification(s) myself and "EdmundGTP" employed to space the rear springs (up), d) modifying the MM spacers so to put the Nivomat shocks to work to give some extra height, e) MAP trailing arms that are required for 10"+ rear rims ....... and so on. So have a look through my posts/threads and you should come across some significant info to help you out.

Very quickly, here's what I had to do (off the top of my head) to have my 19x10 rears with 285's fit without shredding the sidewall from rubbing...


- Offset trailing arms (I used MAP arms, but don't think they're available anymore). Without these, the inside edge of your wheel WILL rub on your existing trailing arms. Maybe not all the time, but once you start taking harder corners, etc ... it'll rub. And the sound will scare the shit out of you.
- Very mildly rolled fenders (I'm not sure this was necessary after other mods, but I had it done anyway)
- Added home made 3/8" hard durometer rubber "spacers" to the top AND bottom of the rear springs, which jacked the rear back up to a reasonable level...still the fender is barely level with the top of the tire though.
- Removed the "stand-offs" from my Mightymouse spacers. A few guys argued with me that this wouldn't change anything, but I proved them wrong. Without the stand-offs the Nivomats now kick in to give me another 1/4" or so of ride height (after a kilometer or so of driving). More good news with this is that now the Nivomats do their job when I have a few people in the back seat or a heavy load in the trunk. With the MM spacers installed WITH the stand-offs, the shocks are "fooled" so much that you'd have to have enough weight in the back to compress the rear suspension over 2" before the auto-leveling kicks in. It basically renders the auto-leveling useless... which some guys wanted... no fault of MightMouse.

Anyway...hope that helps. If I forgot anything (and remember to), I'll post more. But please, read, read, read before you slap your new purchased on your car and wind up scraping up the wheels or shredding your new tires on your fenders.


I would be very careful on rims...I have forgestars W/H&R springs....what a mess this has been!. Currently I have 4 spacers on the rear and 2 in the front so I can drive it mildly with a 1/2 tank of gas and just me. I miss being able to drive this car the way I used to!.

Read above man ... I think if you do what I did with the stand-offs on the MM kit, you'll be golden. Wont have to worry about extra weight anymore, as the auto-leveling will keep your rear suspension at a happy level. And it wont pump you back up to factory height because even without the stand-offs, the MM kit still moves the shock's mounting height by an inch or inch and a half.

Silencertk
08-17-13, 08:58 PM
thanks for all the input. heres what i ended up purchasing.: I'm hoping its my "safe fitment" package

20x8.5 offset + 38 tires: 235/35/20 all the way around

lil bit closer to the inside, less diameter for the complete wheel, extra fender clearance with the slightly stretched sidewall/narrow tire.

any opinions?

xbladr
08-17-13, 09:41 PM
Hmmm not sure how that will work and if the compromised tire width is going to be worth it but let us know when you get them slap up some pics

Silencertk
08-18-13, 05:27 AM
it'll be about 5 weeks :( but I'll definitely update

mberisha
08-18-13, 06:15 AM
Good luck brother....

BTW...when you do get the wheels in....be SUPER careful at AutoBahn speeds until you can get all the tweeks & measurements worked out that are mentioned above...

Also....I'd be cautious of how low you drop the V over in Germany....I've seen plenty of dudes not pass the "Gestapo" inspection process over there because of aftermarket lowering. I don't think you plan on going to low....but just something to be cognizant of....good luck.

Silencertk
08-18-13, 06:48 AM
you check my pics? I'm slsmmed lol. but the k-sport suspension passed the gestappo inspection. All legal. the wheels will be more difficult to pass

WesH8398
08-18-13, 12:13 PM
thanks for all the input. heres what i ended up purchasing.: I'm hoping its my "safe fitment" package

20x8.5 offset + 38 tires: 235/35/20 all the way around

lil bit closer to the inside, less diameter for the complete wheel, extra fender clearance with the slightly stretched sidewall/narrow tire.

any opinions?

To be honest, I'm not a fan of spending all that money for a result that's actually inferior to your OEM set up (narrower tires, huge wheels which require such low-profile tires that a simple crack in the road is going to feel like a speed bump...etc). I'm also really unsure about how the narrower tire, wider rim, smaller offset combo is going to look, and I'm a bit nervous about it for ya. Hopefully the offset change doesn't push the wheel/tire in enough to cause you clearance issues with things like fender liners, trailing arms, brake calipers, and other suspension components. Aesthetically, I'm fairly confident that what you've ordered isn't going to make the "stance" of the car very appealing... All I can think of is a huge wheel magnifying the narrow-ness of the tire and it looking even narrower than it is, unfortunately.

If it were me and I was able to make changes to my order, I would contact/research wheeldude.com (where I got my wheels) and get the specifics on offset/sizes that they've successfully used on V1's. Then you can use those measurements to have your set made to... However long this takes to get it right, you'll be happier in the long run. FWIW, I would give serious consideration to putting this order on hold until you get your research done and come up with a setup that best suits you. I feel like you might've rushed into this one a bit...

Sorry to be such a bummer, but you did ask for opinions... Hope you can appreciate some constructive criticism.

Cheers!


PS - If you get a minute, would you mind posting some info about your headlights in my thread HERE (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-appearance/350602-ebay-halo-headlights-switchback-led-drl.html)...? I could use some input...

Silencertk
08-18-13, 12:33 PM
of course i can appreciate some constructive criticism. i understand what you're saying as far as ride quality. but its not something I'm worried about. i like the visual aspect if a lil bit of rubber and a nice wheel. the wheel measurements aren't really that far off from original +38 vs +42. 4mm - are actually giving me 4mm more clearance to trailing arms and friends. 4mm less towards the fenders. the diameter of the wheel/tire combo is 16mm less - creating additional clearance. as far as the narrow tire goes - 235/245 no one will tell the difference. the vehicle is dropped to where you'll have to kneel down to look at how wide the tire actually is lol.

i thought about contacting the wheel dude. but the offset requirements are going to be slightly different depending on wheel design (thinkness and concave of the spokes for instance)

all that being said - I'm about 65% confident they'll fit. as far as the looks go, everyone will be able to get one in, once the wheels arrived and are slapped on :)

thebigjimsho
08-18-13, 09:16 PM
Why the obsession with super wide wheels? 9.5" is the absolute widest you ever need...

Silencertk
08-18-13, 09:17 PM
no obsession. stayed with 8.5 all the way around

Silencertk
10-28-13, 04:26 PM
wheels are in :D :D :D

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-appearance/393321-updated-frozen-grey-metallic-v1-20x8.html