: CTS (and V) **Updated Sub and Amp pics**



ssmith100
02-13-05, 03:56 PM
Finally done with my sub and amp install. Everything sounds really good. My XM is also a whole lot better. Amp cutting on and off with the key is the only thing I really don't like but will have to live with for right now. Ended up using a Kicker Comp 10 for the sub. It actually sounds really good. Depth didn't hurt me either. Enclosing some pics.

Shane

HDMLNIUM
02-13-05, 05:47 PM
Looks great, clean install..:thumbsup:

I bet she sounds very nice.:banana:

Bill-05-V

http://photobucket.com/albums/v466/HDMLNIUM/th_CTS-V1.jpghttp://photobucket.com/albums/v466/HDMLNIUM/th_Z06-fuelrailcovers.jpghttp://photobucket.com/albums/v466/HDMLNIUM/th_Badge-removal.jpg
05 CTS-V--- Light Platinum
Llumar Clear Bra and Tinted windows, Stealth-V z06 fuel rail covers, Stealth-V Cags Eliminator,
K&N drop in filter, B&B cat back exhaust, BMR Toe Rods, BMR Trailing arms .... More Mods coming..
Online Photos http://photobucket.com/albums/v466/HDMLNIUM/

wildwhl
02-13-05, 05:56 PM
Is the Kicker Comp 10 a free air (aka infinite baffle) sub?

ssmith100
02-13-05, 06:02 PM
All the comp series are designed for free air applications. It sounds very good. I used quite a bit of Dynamat extreme back there. Rattles everywhere. Sounds 100% better than stock.


Shane

wildwhl
02-13-05, 06:05 PM
Did you Dynamat the heck out of the read deck lid, or just the trunk area?

ssmith100
02-13-05, 07:05 PM
Mainly just the top of the rear deck lid. The XM module had a small rattle and found and fixed it. Been driving the car the last half hour. As much as I like the new sub, it sure was nice to listen to the B&B also. Added one more pic of the circuit breaker under the hood.


Shane

BowenCT
02-13-05, 07:17 PM
Shane, did you replace any of the factory interior speakers?

ssmith100
02-13-05, 07:41 PM
No, I believe there all 1 ohm drivers and there isn't an aftermarket company that makes that. I will probably leave the factory stuff alone now. Updrading the sub really made a world of difference though.


Shane

BowenCT
02-13-05, 07:47 PM
No, I believe there all 1 ohm drivers and there isn't an aftermarket company that makes that.


Shane

Cool, I did not know that. I am going to do a sub as well, though unsure what I will do. I don't particularly want to mess with replacing the junk Bose 10". I may mount a 12" in the spare tire well, or I may just do a 10" amplified Bazooka (ie: cheap and easy) and call it a day.

thebigjimsho
02-13-05, 07:54 PM
No, I believe there all 1 ohm drivers and there isn't an aftermarket company that makes that. I will probably leave the factory stuff alone now. Updrading the sub really made a world of difference though.


Shane
Sounds like it's time to gut the whole system.:bighead:

lawfive
02-14-05, 12:57 AM
SSmith:

How much did you have to modify either the opening or the speaker?

CTS Orlando
02-14-05, 05:10 AM
All the comp series are designed for free air applications. It sounds very good. I used quite a bit of Dynamat extreme back there. Rattles everywhere. Sounds 100% better than stock.


Shane

Shane, perfect choice for a rear deck sub. I've previously done my homework and also found that the Kicker Comp SVC is the only sub on the market thats designed for free air. Be careful with your description though, the Comp DVC is not designed for freeair. JL Audio used to make an 'IB' (Infinite baffle) model, but its been discontinued for years.

My first mod to the car was to Dynamat (Xtreme) the underside of the rear deck. I still have the factory sub, but noticed the Dynamat helped stiffen bass response. I have also noticed that the factory sub sounds 200% better with the windows down.

I was planning on doing the same install as you, using the Comp SVC. I have a JL 250/1 amp, and the Comp is only good for 125 watts. Too much amp for the sub, but nothing I cant solve by reducing the gain.

Is the Kicker Comp truly that much better?
Will it definatly be worthwhile for me to go with that setup?
After reading my note about more bass with windows down, have you tried it and noticed any difference in sound?

ssmith100
02-14-05, 09:53 AM
In all my years of car audio (20yrs) I have drawn the conclusion that you can never have to much power. I would have used the 250/1 instead of the amp I have except the 250/1 does not have a remote bass gain control. The comp 10 is a single voice coil and not a dual. The duals are made for very small enclosures. This was about as easy of an install as I have ever done. Having the windows down is just going to let the (bass) wave extend further. That's why the bass sounds so much better with the windows down.
Lawfive,
All I had to do was bend the opening down a little to clear the basket of the new sub. If you look closely at the pictures you can see it. I can take a closer up shot if you need it.

Shane

lawfive
02-14-05, 01:32 PM
Lawfive,
All I had to do was bend the opening down a little to clear the basket of the new sub. If you look closely at the pictures you can see it. I can take a closer up shot if you need it.
Shane

No, s'OK. Thanks Shane!

LV_V
02-15-05, 06:52 AM
Did you have to take the rear glass out? I am planning on doing a similar setup but with either one or two Image Dynamics IDMAX 12's (bad ass subs in free-air). Running a Arc Audio 1500XXK amp (~1000 watts RMS). If you took out the glass, how hard was it to do?

ssmith100
02-15-05, 09:22 AM
Didn't have to remove the rear glass. If your going to do a twelve you will have to cut some sheet metal. To do 2 is going to be a lot of work. There are modules on the left and right side of the rear deck that would have to be relocated along with adding support to the package shelf for two drivers. I think before I did all that I would have an enclosure built behind the back seat and have it ported through the existing subwoofer hole. It would be very easy to do.

Shane

SBONES
02-15-05, 09:37 AM
Finally done with my sub and amp install. Everything sounds really good. My XM is also a whole lot better. Amp cutting on and off with the key is the only thing I really don't like but will have to live with for right now. Ended up using a Kicker Comp 10 for the sub. It actually sounds really good. Depth didn't hurt me either. Enclosing some pics.

Shane
is that the best and only free air speaker. I want to do this, is it hard, where do i take it to get this done. And what do i need. does it sound better than stock. One last thing what kind of amp. I need help......does the grill go back over the kicker

Thanks, Bones

ssmith100
02-15-05, 10:21 AM
Bones,

There are a lot of drivers out there that will do free air configurations. For the money, the Kicker is a really good buy $49.99. I've been doing this for a long time so the installation seemed fairly easy. The grill does go back over the stock opening. I just left it off for the picture. Amplifier will be up to you. I used one of JL Audio's e-series (1200) amps because it was all the power I was going to need. Cost on it is less than $200.00. I think with all the power wire, distribution block, circuit breaker and misc I only have about $325.00 in everything. It wouldn't cost to much in labor for a shop to do it I don't think.
I could send you some pictures to show them how you wanted it done.

Shane

SBONES
02-15-05, 10:58 AM
that sounds cool. i already printed your pics to show the install shop. I just want the best woofer i can buy. whats better than kicker. or should i just use the kicker.and amp..

ssmith100
02-15-05, 11:07 AM
Bones,

I didn't do a lot of research on different subs out there because I knew that the Kicker would do everything I needed it too. Whatever shop you use might be able to make some recommendations. I'll post a couple of more pics this weekend for you also. I've got to take the panel back off again because I have a rattle I need to fix. (already know where it is) That will give you a better idea of the MDF piece I cut and what's on the back deck.

Shane

SBONES
02-15-05, 02:52 PM
would the rear deck hold a heavy woofer. Do i have to reinforce it, woofer and amp might be to much,??:hmm:

ssmith100
02-15-05, 02:58 PM
Bones,

The center section of the rear deck is very sturdy. Once you use a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF to mount your speaker in it will help reinforce it. Mounting the amp where I did didn't cause any problems with weight either. If you were going to cut the rear deck and do two woofers it would have to be reinforced better.

Shane

benjet
02-15-05, 03:45 PM
Guys I'm gonna move this into the Infotainment area, so that CTS owners can also make use of the info....

You are welcome to keep the discussion going, just want it to be benifical to as many as possible ;)

Great work Shane!

-Ben

SBONES
02-15-05, 05:52 PM
i wounder if the sound curve is messed up. Does yours kick better than stock. Its loud, but i want more bass. I want it to sound better not worse...

CTS Orlando
02-15-05, 06:00 PM
....That will give you a better idea of the MDF piece I cut and what's on the back deck.

Shane

I've been under the decklid cover, so I've seen all the extra hardware and plastic mounting bracket for the sub and electronics. Why did you add the MDF, for extra support I assume? Did you have to remove any part of the factory bracket, or is the MDF just layed over it?

ssmith100
02-15-05, 06:38 PM
I cut the factory plastic mounting bracket off and used it as a template for the 1/2" MDF that I used. Part of the rattle I was experiencing in the rear was the plastic bracket the factory sub is mounted to. I'll post a couple of more pics tonight to show you guys. I've got to redo the mount for the XM module because the top has a rattle I can't get rid off. Going to replace the mount with 1" foam and that should take care of it. ******If you guys want better, louder and cleaner bass this mod will work for you. It will also be very easy to take it back to factory when you get rid of the car. Hope that answers some questions. ********

Shane

SBONES
02-15-05, 09:35 PM
thanks alot for your info. im most likely going to get the same setup. Im scared if i get to crazy i might be going the wrong way.

ssmith100
02-15-05, 10:58 PM
More updated pics. All going back together tonight.


Shane

D148L0
02-15-05, 11:10 PM
Shane, why don't you try using a relay?
I could bet it will rid of the thump.

ssmith100
02-16-05, 12:29 AM
I was using a piece by Peripheral that would take the low voltage signal input and up it to 12volts to turn on the amp. That worked great it was just when you wanted to turn the system off the signal would still be there and the amp would not turn off till you opened the door to the car. The woofer would then pop when the signal finally went to 0volts. I'm starting to get use to the way it is now. Maybe someday I'll jump into it again.


Shane