I desperately need someone to read my post of about 2 days ago, entitled: ""Help!!! A/C Compressor Pulley '95 STS""! I just bought the compressor and clutch assembly and

1. I need to know about any special tools I'll need before I get started on the job (to loosen the compression fittings or to pull out the old compressor). The guy at the auto shop told me that it would just pop right out.

2. I need to know about "lubrication" as it tells me on the instructions that this is very important to the life of it. Also, it tells me that the proper installation of an inline filter can help to provide problems with contaminates getting clogged in the system during installation.

3. Can I discharge the freon from the system myself or do I need to go to someone with special equipment. If so, I need to know that if I go to a shop to get it discharged, then I do the installation, how long at the most should it be before I get the lines charged again (as I understand you shouldn't wait too long before discharging and then charging again).
clusco@netscape.com

If you are going to charge it you need gauges. You probably need the release tool for the lines and new o-rings. Never reuse the old ones! You need new compressor oil. Did you get any with the compressor?

You need to go here and read some of this so you understand what you are doing.

http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=20

Yes there are special tool required to remove and install the clutch. You need to put the proper amount of the correct type of oil in the new compressor when it is installed. Legally, the refrigerant must be recovered as opposed to venting it to the atmosphere. A factory service manual would be invluable.

What do you mean by "it need oil"? What type of oil does it need and where do you put the oil? The clutch assembly I bought comes with a paper that says that many assemblies are shipped not equipped with enough oil lubrication but their assembly has adequate lubrication for the installation. Should I need more lubrication?

2. What special tool is required to remove the clutch: Is it a pulley?

3. What kind of guages will I need?

4. When I visit the auto store, what type of O-rings do I ask for and how many?

5. Will I really have to remove the oil filter when changing this assembly? (just changed my oil 3 days ago).

No offense but your questions indicate that you are clueless about A/C systems. Don't feel bad, most mechanics are too. This is an expensive and dangerous system. If you don't know what you are doing, I'd seriously consider taking it to a shop or have someone nearby with experience in A/C systems around to help you. Otherwise, if done improperly it may cost you more than it would have it you let a shop do it in the first place. It may also save you a trip to the hospital.

I would at least take it to a shop and have the system evacuated of refridgerant. That is the legal, and safest way to do it! You don't need a nice frost burn in the middle of winter!

You guys have a point. I'm going to spring from the extra $300 to let a pro install it, I guess. Terrible thing is that I just bought the assembly and compressor combo from an auto shop locally for $240 (remanufactured, of course) and I just found the same remanufactured combo online for $125. Thanks for your help guys.

Well, that's too bad about the price! It pays to shop around, but it always seems like I later find it cheaper somewhere else! Can you return the one to the local shop?

I think you are wise to go that route. Besides the knowledge needed to service an A/C system, the specialty tools are difficult to get access to. If you replace the seals and spring retainers, besides the removal toolset and the various size seals you will need, you would also need an evacuation pump to draw moisture from the lines and be sure the system is leak-free before adding freon. You would also probably need to replace the dryer unit because you would have the open system exposed to outside air too long (referring to your question #3) as you figure out the compressor install and seal replacement. Then there's the gauges as mentioned before.
So don't feel bad about having to hire someone.

"A man has got to know his limitations."
-- Clint Eastwood

Very sound advice from all members. The A/C is just not very DIY friendly if youre going into it somewhat blind.

One last question regarding this job. My mechanic (who worked for Cadillac for 17 years and is now on his own) tells me he can get to my car this week. He says he'll only charge me $150 for the labor

1. Is this a good price for the job at hand (including evacuating and recharging)?

2. Should I definitely make it a point to tell him to use brand new O-rings or should he definitely have to install new ones?

3. Should I buy a new drier to have installed also or does that really have a huge effect?

1) yes

2) yes...he should be doing this anyway and he probably has an assortment but make sure.

3) yes, yes it does

1) That's a very good price
2) In addition to replacing o-rings, the spring clips should be replaced as well. You can tell a bad o-ring because there is usually refridgerant oil around the connection. If your mechanic has a freon sniffing instrument, you may be able to detect the bad ones while there is still freon in the system.
3)If you've had the system open more than 24 hours - definitely. On a 10 year old car I might anyway. Are they real expensive on a caddy? My TurboCoupe was about $150.

Ok guys, I've just learned that you don't need that special pulley tool to pull the clutch out and change it as long as I've bought a new compressor and clutch combo. This job is really not looking that hard to accomplish now. The only hard part that I'm getting from you guys is 1. evacuating, 2. recharging with guages and 3. oiling up the new compressor when I'm done. 1. I can evacuate it myself by leaking it out. 2. I can get a shop to recharge my refrigerant, 3. When you guys talk about oiling the compressor up, I can drive it to a shop after the installation and have them add the oil while recharging the A/C system, right?

You will need ester oil that u can buy where u got the compressor. Or if the directions say other oil buy and use that. It should tell u how much to put in, crank the clutch to distribute and all that, if no directions take it back and go somewhere else that has instructions for your compressor, they should come with it.

Yes, dont reuse your clutch, it will cost just as much to pull off and put on the new compressor, i thought about the tool but it was cheaper to get a new clutch.

Let the system empty out, look out if it still has all pressure, remove hose nut very slowly and let it slowly leak for 20 minutes or so.

Replace compressor, tighten things back up with all new orings and such and orifice tube and u MUST put in a new dryer!! Dont skimp out. Mine was $23 Gotta love gm for using same parts on everything, those stupid fords have all different parts. Gm parts are always cheaper, larger quantity made and used = lower cost.

This ester oil you put in is all the oil you need, dont buy the oil charge can at walmart.

And no, this is oil you put in the compressor before it goes back in the car!!

Go somewhere and have it evacuated. Goodyear charged me $35

You dont need gauges to fill your system but they arent that exp like $20 or something at walmart. Look on your car, it should say how much 134a it holds. Go buy the walmart 134a can, it has 16 oz in each bottle, thats one pound, do like directions say, put in like 2 cans upside down then the third one right side up and you will be very close to desired pressure.

I had my mechanic hook up his guages after i did all this and it was just fine. He didnt even charge me, it took like 20 seconds.


THe only thing i didnt understand was if the evac pulled out my oil i put in the compressor, but they told me no, that doenst mean it didnt though. Ne1 else got a clue on that one??