: fuel pump upgrade



philistine
07-31-13, 01:20 PM
Since I'm doing a clutch, shifter, CS 8.8 upgrade install soon I figure might as well upgrade the fuel pump while I'm at it. I did some digging in the LS1tech forum and a little here as well.

For a goal of ~600whp I'm thinking of the following:

Fullblown 340lph $120
http://www.amazon.com/Original-FULL-BLOWN-340lph-Intank/dp/B00A7EZ2R0

Racetronix hotwire kit FPWH-027 $59.99
http://racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPWH-027&Tp=

There is an offset on the inlet and straight through the outlet which I think is compatible with the bucket. I use this pump on my s2k with ID1000cc injectors and made 525whp easily with 40psi base and 25psi boost using a FPR on the fuel rails. At WOT with 11.7 AFR I was at 66% injector duty and still had plenty of fuel available. The pump is super quiet and according to the tests performed by Fullblown, it outperforms the Aeromotive 340lph. I previously had a Walbro 255 and RC750cc injectors and leaned out at 475whp same base pressure.

Anyway, I plan to drop the tank and install the pump. I think there is a FPR incorporated in the tank? I'm not sure if this interferes when it comes time for forced induction and tuning later down the road. From my reading, the stock fuel lines are -6AN (equivalent) which should be fine for 600-700whp.

Also, I'm not sure if after I install all this if the new pump will interfere with the fuel maps...goes back to the FPR question. Need some direction.

Looking for some to chime in...

Thanks!

Hammar
07-31-13, 05:10 PM
Good choice to do the pump at the same time as the 8.8". Dropping the cradle makes this a 2 birds/1 stone job, nice and sweet. And you can totally assemble the 8.8 and axles on the floor away from the car.....

The pressure regulator is in the 'fuel filter' just in front of the tank, on the inner side of the frame rail.

Two thumbs up on the hot wire kit, regardless of the pump you pick. I'm running a 255, can't speak to the pump you listed. if it's 'as advertised' I think you're in good shape.

Good luck.

Hammar
maggied 2005V

philistine
07-31-13, 08:44 PM
Thanks for the info on the FPR.

Here's a little more info on the Fullblown 340 fuel pump (direct drop those running GSS-342) I'm thinking of going with:

This is the test data on a single 340lph model. They have data on twin FB340 vs twin Walbro 255.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/s2k_misc/FB_test_results_zps99f79dae.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/s2k_misc/FB_test_results_zps99f79dae.jpg.html)

Here is a pic of the FB340 next to a Walbro 255 when I was installing it in my s2k.
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t404/jaysenbaker/s2k_misc/2013-06-14195213_zps70feedbe.jpg (http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/jaysenbaker/media/s2k_misc/2013-06-14195213_zps70feedbe.jpg.html)

Naf
08-04-13, 03:51 AM
I have a similar setup but i used the aeromotive 340lph pump instead...

philistine
08-04-13, 10:41 AM
I have a similar setup but i used the aeromotive 340lph pump instead...

I read where the aeromotive could overheat due to the bucket design. Did you take out the regulator and/or install larger feed/return lines?

ronr
08-28-13, 10:05 AM
Would a ZL1 fuel pump (part number 19260557) from GM Performance be and option and an improvement? Not sure if this would be a drop in for our tanks.


The catalog says:

ZL1 Fuel Pump
19260557
The high-capacity fuel pump module from the 2012 Camaro ZL1drops right into 2010+ Camaro fuel tanks and supports about 600 hp.

ctsv247
08-28-13, 10:23 AM
There is a reference to a v2 pump working in a v1 here.....http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/272785-parts-list-build.html

Jeff James
08-28-13, 12:17 PM
Not sure if the ZL1 pump and V2 are physically the same but the specs. are!

DMM
08-28-13, 12:42 PM
The V2 pump will NOT fit the V1 tank, the hole is the wrong size. That said, the V1 and V2 tanks look to be identical but I have not had the opportunity to investigate this swap. There is a JY with a 2010 CTS tank for $75 about 4 hours away from my house, but have not been able to get it. After the tank, pumps, lines, etc are installed, you still need a stand alone PWM system to drive them. Probably looking at nearly $2k for every thing.

ZL1 and V2 are same size, with ZL1 having a single larger pump and the V2 having two smaller ones.

FuzzyLogic
08-28-13, 12:56 PM
I feel that it is more cost effective to replace the in-tank pump with an Aeromotive 340 or Walbro 450 pump, run 1/0 AWG cable to the rear from the alternator, and massively increase the diameter of the outgoing fuel line to increase the stored pressurized fuel volume. If the car still leans out at 750+ RWHP due to a loss in pressure, a small surge tank with twin 340s should suffice.

ronr
08-28-13, 02:05 PM
... you still need a stand alone PWM system to drive them.

Does the Gen IV LS ECU drive the PWM or do the V2/ZL1 systems have their own stand alone PWM?

philistine
08-28-13, 02:42 PM
I feel that it is more cost effective to replace the in-tank pump with an Aeromotive 340 or Walbro 450 pump, run 1/0 AWG cable to the rear from the alternator, and massively increase the diameter of the outgoing fuel line to increase the stored pressurized fuel volume. If the car still leans out at 750+ RWHP due to a loss in pressure, a small surge tank with twin 340s should suffice.

The question is how would those pumps perform in the fuel bucket? e.g. cavitation or getting overheated. The Racetronix hotwire kit gives 10AWG from the alternator to the bulkhead harness on the fuel bucket via a relay - that's good for an additional 1-1.5 volts. So then that leaves the "in-tank" wiring and OEM bulkhead connector as the limiting factor for possible overheating. To me this hotwire kit is missing the rest of the parts to take it directly to the pump(s).

Racetronix sells this bulkhead connector:
BCWS-001 - Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way

It uses 14awg wire and advertises it is good for 14amp continuous and 20 amp intermittent and gives a vapor barrier. This would be useless if it is the same size wire as the OEM in-tank wire for running larger pumps. It would be suitable for twin Walbro 255 as those do not pull as many amps.

I'm hunting around for a 10-12awg bulkhead fitting that is hermetically sealed to connect the fuel pump(s) but haven't found one yet.

sssnake
08-28-13, 10:55 PM
Phili

Unless I am sadly mistaken you will not find that bulkhead connector. Drill it through and seal it.

philistine
08-28-13, 11:50 PM
Phili

Unless I am sadly mistaken you will not find that bulkhead connector. Drill it through and seal it.

Yeah, that is one option drilling it then running the wire and sealing it - as long as you use the proper wire and sealant that won't allow wicking etc.

I took a long look at the Racetronix hotwire kit I have at my bench and it appears to be 14awg for the bulkhead connector - the higher gauge wire (OEM) is just to activate the relay so I ignore that as a limiting factor. Anyways, if 14awg wire is fed to the Racetronix hotwire harness at the bulkhead fitting on the top then I know I can at least match that. If the wire inside the tank is smaller than 14awg then I rewire it for 14awg. You see, using this hotwire kit still limits you to 14awg for the pump but only for a short distance - at the connector.

To sum it up, 14awg from the pump to bulkhead connector (inside tank), from the bulkhead connector to the Racetronix hotwire kit (outside tank) which uses 14awg at that tophat. From there, the hotwire kit jumps to 10awg to the relay, fuse, and alternator.

I'm starting the interrogation with the V1 tomorrow so my DD defaults to the racerocket gas guzzling s2k.

Naf
08-29-13, 04:38 AM
I read where the aeromotive could overheat due to the bucket design. Did you take out the regulator and/or install larger feed/return lines?

Not really, i removed the walbro 255 and installed the pump...

We will see what it brings to the table, i hear walbros overheat if you have less than a 1/4 tank of fuel...