: Paint job on 76 cdv



blueboy
07-29-13, 04:11 PM
Anyone have some facts and figures on a repaint job on a 1976 CDV? Body pretty good, trunk lid bottom corroded, bottom of rear where vinyl top meets body corrode and the rear fillers need replacing but all else good.

outsider
07-29-13, 04:46 PM
Sounds pretty standard. Are you doing the work yourself or having it done?

If doing it yourself you have to ask yourself how perfect do you need it and how much money do you want to spend? You can replace a lot of sheet metal (like the rusted trunk lid) or you can repair them with some basic rust repair techniques. wire brush wheel, some rust converter of your choice (4 parts 1 to 1 part vinegar seems to work pretty good for a cheap option) and then fiberglass filler it. With enough sanding you can make it unnoticeable.

If you're looking to have it done professionally you'll pay a lot I bet. Rust repair is a lengthy process involving a lot of sanding. And then the painting requires even more hours of sanding.

Check out csbuckn's thread. He was a first time painter and it came out great.

blueboy
08-02-13, 11:33 AM
I'm planning on prepping the car myself, carefully removing the trim and then lotsa sanding down. I'm interested in stripping techniques? I will have the paint job done professionally.......a good body shop with a decent paint room. Will try working on the trunk lid very soon but might be easier to replace it. Fleetwood body manual should be arriving soon. Thanks:-)

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I'm planning on prepping the car myself, carefully removing the trim and then lotsa sanding down. I'm interested in stripping techniques? I will have the paint job done professionally.......a good body shop with a decent paint room. Will try working on the trunk lid very soon but might be easier to replace it. Fleetwood body manual should be arriving soon. Coiuldn't fiond csbuckn's thread? Thanks:-)

outsider
08-02-13, 12:34 PM
do you have a air compressor with a DA or inline sander? If you do, use them! The DA (dual action) is probably the most important sanding tool you could have for body work. block sanding is needed for the finishing but i couldn't imagine sanding down a whole car by hand without a DA!

amunderdog
08-02-13, 01:17 PM
I have been reading about all different kinds of paint types.
Might be a good plan to work with your painter from the start so your prep work will work there paint - procedures - capabilities.

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I'm interested in stripping techniques? Thanks:-)
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hdrp_0606_paint_stripping_basics_tips/viewall.html

scuff-and-shoot for the win:)

Learning :) Thanks
Apparently Soda blasting is not correct.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/soda-blasting-83749.html

outsider
08-02-13, 02:05 PM
I'm a fan of scuff and spray. I've never taken the whole car down to bare metal, only sections that needed work like rust or dents.

lacville78
08-02-13, 04:34 PM
Scuff and spray is the way to go if you can get away with it. In my case the car had blistering where the primer was losing adhesion to the metal, not a good base. I also wonder when you see old Caddys with cracks in the paint that looks like alligator skin, if the cracks go into the primer, in that case scuff and spray might not work either.

blueboy
08-05-13, 09:45 AM
I agree and will proceed with scuff and spray to start with. I do have significant rust around the bottom of the trunk lid and around the base of the vinyl top...not unusual. I intend to go see my local paint shop this week and discuss the process with them. I have reduced the pics to a mere 230KB but I still can't get them to load.....keeps telling me I have exceeded my limt ...which I have not!.........GRRH!!! Meanwhile the stripping of trim continues.

outsider
08-05-13, 10:01 AM
I also would recommend a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder for rusty spots that are hard to get to :)

cadillac kevin
08-05-13, 11:17 AM
I agree and will proceed with scuff and spray to start with. I do have significant rust around the bottom of the trunk lid and around the base of the vinyl top...not unusual. I intend to go see my local paint shop this week and discuss the process with them. I have reduced the pics to a mere 230KB but I still can't get them to load.....keeps telling me I have exceeded my limt ...which I have not!.........GRRH!!! Meanwhile the stripping of trim continues.

Maybe it's time for a photobucket or imageshack account?

blueboy
08-17-13, 02:02 PM
Remembered, I have a flicker account:
TRUNK LID
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9511231832/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9508440539/
REAR WINDOW
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/with/9508440539/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9511261650/

jayoldschool
08-17-13, 03:45 PM
Wow, flickr is really slow. I gave up waiting for a pic to load. Try this. Right click on the image, click on "copy image location", and past it between these tags

blueboy
08-18-13, 10:06 PM
Hi Guys I've stripped off the bottom of the vinyl top and here's the result:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9540368420/

Pretty nasty stuff eh?
So I suppose need to get the bad part cut out and replaced. I can see where the seams are...is it possible to cut it out get a replacement from a similar year deville (does it have to be a coupe?) or have it made and have it welded in place? Or should I just ...I know this is sacrilege but....fill it with glass fibre/bondo and move on?
Opinions please.
Thanks

Mark 78 Coupe
08-18-13, 11:53 PM
You haven't said how much you want to spend, or how high quality wise, you want to go with your car. The color of your car matters as well. Darker colors require more prep because flaws (wavy body work especially) show up more than they do with light colors. Replacing rusted panels like hoods, doors, and deck lids usually makes more sense than trying to repair them due to how costly rust repairs are. I always sand blast rust because it is the only way for sure to get all the corrosion out. Even if it makes a hole, cut and weld a new piece of steel in if you are really looking for a long lasting repair. Give us some more info, and I can give my 2 cents worth. I am not a professional body or paint guy, but I have done lots of it over the last 40 years. If you really take your time, nothing can make your car look better than a really well done paint job.

1980coupe
08-19-13, 12:05 AM
If it were me, I'll do it right the first time. Which is find another piece off of a same year and model. I don't think a sedan would work but maybe someone else can chime in on that.
I wouldn't bondo over it. If you cannot locate another piece, make it.

Mark 78 Coupe
08-19-13, 12:55 AM
I mentioned earlier in your other post that all of this is really up to you and how much time and money you want to invest. Could you grind most of the rust, and fill it with Tiger Hair, bondo, or whatever? Yes, of course you can. Will it last? Maybe, maybe not. If the car is garaged, and out of bad weather, the cheap fix will last longer than if it is exposed to the elements. But, taking out the rear glass and welding in new steel (after sandblasting the old stuff to get all the residue of rust out) is the only (almost) sure fire way to stop the rust from returning. Why don't you give us an approximate dollar amount that you want to spend in total on body and paint? That way maybe I can help with some ideas from prior projects I've done.

blueboy
08-19-13, 08:59 AM
Thanks guys. I understand that the 'proper' way to do this is a the welding of a fresh piece of metal in place below the window, after a sand blast to make sure there is no rust still in there. My dilemma is whether it is worth spending what could be a considerable amount on this as opposed to just patch it with GF/Bondo.
1. Do I want to spend a considerable amount of money on bodywork in bringing Blueboy back to a reasonable new lease of life?
2. Is it really worth spending a considerable amount of money when I could buy another fairly good, rustless example for what I might spend on getting Blueboy back to life ?
3. Mechanically she's fairly good, engine, brakes, trans, suspension all in reasonably good condition.
4. There are other rust spots.....the trunk lid (have located a new lid from AZ...in primer,no rust) and under the dash for a start but probably easier to deal with. The trunk floor is good and after my POR 15 arrives, will be solved.
Do I want to keep the car for any length of time?

I realise these are all questions that I have to answer myself and I want to do things right by Blueboy but lets face it this is a car!

My plan was to spend some $2/3 grand at most including a paint job and vinyl top. Prepping I can do but the paint job and vinyl top will have to be done professionally.
At present I have no garage to cosset Blueboy..just a meager car port.

I will appreciate your comments chaps. BTW thanks for the tips and the advice on this forum.
IMHO these cars are magnificent beasts of the road and I love them dearly and I have had some exotic cars both European and American in my time.
Rock on

csbuckn
08-19-13, 10:25 AM
Are those studs for mounting the vinyl top or are they screws to hold the decklid in place? You're gonna have to cut it out and weld in a thin sheet. They have stud rivets you will be able to use to make the mounting studs again. Doesnt look like a terrible job.

Mark 78 Coupe
08-19-13, 10:50 AM
From what I can see, the rust on your car is really not that bad. The fender skirt era cars rusted very badly in that area, and yours looks very solid, no doubt due to its western heritage. Doing a proper fix on the rust by the rear window would really not be that big of a repair. If you plan on making her your "forever" car, and still want to stick to some kind of budget, here is my idea. Cut out and weld new metal by the back window. Then, get a moderately priced budget paint job from a place like Maaco. If you do proper prep work, Maaco paint jobs really look fine. They paint cars all day long, so they put it on smoothly. They also use PPG products (at least up north) which are excellent quality. Enjoy the car for a few years with that paint job, and in the mean time sort out any other issues (front seat, mechanical gremlins, etc). Once all other issues are addressed, then pop for the big dollar paint job, if you choose. And big dollar can start at $2000 and go way up from there. But, like I said, a properly done Maaco job is really nothing to be ashamed of. Painting is the easy part-all the work and time is in the prep.

outsider
08-19-13, 12:32 PM
The right way to do it is to weld in new metal however if you are on a tight budget (welding can get expensive...) You could get away with fiberglassing it in. It's not the "right" thing to do but properly treating the metal with some rust inhibitor and cutting out the bad parts before fiberglassing it in will result in a good finish that will last.

As has been said, it's up to you how much you want to pay and what kind of quality you're looking for. I see no shame in fiber glass and bondo. I've used a ton on my 69 and although it's not perfect it's a lot better than it was and in the end do you want a show car or a car you can go out on the road with and enjoy?

Mark 78 Coupe
08-19-13, 02:00 PM
From what I can see in the pictures you have provided it looks like the only real rust is around the back window and the deck lid. If you budget some money to do the rear window repair properly (sand blast, new steel, etc) you will end up with a very solid car. And, in a few years time if you want a different car, having done this one properly will enable you to sell it at a very good price. You have an advantage in that it was always a western/southern car, and it is a beautiful color combination. My vote is to do the rust repair properly. Like I said earlier, having it really solid in the fender skirt area is a huge selling point if you choose to sell in the future. Make your investment now and you will be re paid handsomely later.

blueboy
08-20-13, 09:39 AM
Thanks guys. Yes the rest of the car is in pretty good shape, fender skirts included. I'm going to make some enquiries as to the cost of sand blasting and replacing the back window window deck lid. The result will determine my course of action. The vinyl top will come off this weekend which will certainly reveal anymore problems although I am confident that its just the back window deck lid. Then new boots, insurance, tag and a short run or two will help promote enthusiasm. I found that replacement seat covers in white leather can be had for $1100. Don't know yet what the labour cost of having them fitted will be. I'm pulling the dash apart right now as the main support bar and other metal parts have surface rust...gosh its complicated ! Thanks so much for all your advice and enthusiasm.

jayoldschool
08-20-13, 12:56 PM
Time to prioritize. Why worry about surface rust on a dash support bar? You've got bigger things to deal with. Last thing you want is a car with the top torn off, dash apart, sitting, rotting...

talismandave
08-20-13, 01:28 PM
Mine had/has that too. I agree with Jay, on mine I hit it with WD40 and got on with my life. I have never had a car rust out from the dash support out.

Neil Clarke
08-21-13, 07:24 AM
Fix it properly
I'd hate to buy a car full of half arsed repairs
And I'm sure you would too
Do yourself and the new owners a service and either fix it properly or sell out now to someone who will
Classics should be protected
Its not a plastic car... don 't fix it with it.

I'm sure a sheet metal worker would be able to fab that part up easily (looking at my 76 sedan)
Seems however here in Australia we weld repair and fix things you guys bog up

blueboy
08-23-13, 08:05 AM
Got a quote from local company on having the padded vinyl top fitted ...$450 all in! I'm excited that seems to be a very good deal. Here's before/after pics of their gallery:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9573976685/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9576771802/
I like the crest and "V" on the quarter panel...
POR 15 has arrived ...tomorrow sees the trunk floor painted.
Getting there :-)

outsider
08-23-13, 09:58 AM
Hey make sure you don't get any por 15 on your skin...it will not come off for weeks. I had black hands for weeks when I did mine because i wasn't smart enough to wear gloves lol

blueboy
08-23-13, 10:09 AM
Thanks Man. I'm getting quotes on replacing that rear deck. Also on hiring a sand blaster......this is all new to me.
I have a quote on the padded vinyl top replacement..$450 for the lot with my prep. Not bad :-)
Here's an example of their work.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62382565@N03/9576771802/
I'm about to paint the trunk floor with POR 15.
She's moving!