: Level Ride Riding High



N0DIH
03-07-05, 12:53 PM
I appologize if this has been covered, I haven't seen it yet, been looking though!

My 94 on the way to work decided to be a high rider. I don't know where the switch is that tells it to go high or low, but it must have got disconnected. The top edge of the hubcap can be seen exposed now. It wasn't like that when I left the house. But as I was driving it kept getting harder and harder in the back, bouncing over even the cracks in the road where it is buckled up a little bit.

For the ride home I will need to pull the fuse to keep it from trying to crank it up more, which is it?

And where do I find the level switch to control the ride height to see if the arm popped off?

Thanks!
Tom

HotRodSaint
03-07-05, 01:45 PM
The fuse is under the hood on the right side of the car.

cadillacmike68
03-07-05, 03:34 PM
The switch / sensor combo is under the car above and in front of the differential.

N0DIH
03-07-05, 03:42 PM
The switch / sensor combo is under the car above and in front of the differential.

Thanks for the help guys!

Do they commonly get knocked off or adjustment get screwed up?

Does it run with the car off? Like, am I going to go out after work have 2 blown shocks?

Thanks!
Tom

cadillacmike68
03-07-05, 03:48 PM
Mine has been trouble free for over 160,000 miles - only one set of bad shocks replaced so far knock on wood (no real wood in my fleetwood tho' :annoyed: )

The system will run on a time delay (don't know how long) to adjust for items being put in / removed from trunk, etc. It has like a farting sound.

N0DIH
03-07-05, 03:51 PM
So it won't keep running and running all day if the link is broken?

Tom

cadillacmike68
03-07-05, 03:58 PM
It's not SUPPOSED to!

FTSS
03-07-05, 06:00 PM
You will get a constipated system that keeps pumping itself too high if the exhaust solenoid shoots craps, thus not allowing the "air escaping" sound before the system resets and pumps itself back to the set level. AFAIK, it's not separately serviceable, and unless you can rip it open for repair, then it's to the junkyard for a whole replacement compressor assy from Whatever the Hollander book says will work.

Keep your old one to swap over whatever things are different between the two.

N0DIH
02-09-09, 03:11 PM
You know, I love to follow up (and ressurect old links...), I found the link on mine broken... The plastic got brittle and snapped. $20 from the dealer to fix.

faster
02-11-09, 03:54 PM
You will get a constipated system that keeps pumping itself too high if the exhaust solenoid shoots craps, thus not allowing the "air escaping" sound before the system resets and pumps itself back to the set level. AFAIK, it's not separately serviceable, and unless you can rip it open for repair, then it's to the junkyard for a whole replacement compressor assy from Whatever the Hollander book says will work.

Keep your old one to swap over whatever things are different between the two.

If your really careful you can take it apart and clean the blockage out of the solenoid orfice. You have to be really, really careful not to break the white plastic seat the solenoid plunger seals off to hold the air in the system.

I've cleaned one and I broke one.

Then seal it up and screw the top back on.

I have even removed the solenoid altogether and used an aftermarket air valve to bleed off air on another car.

Mikey

N0DIH
02-11-09, 06:49 PM
Cool, I found my old thread here that I posted right after I got my 94 FWB and on the way to work the butt was riding high. Now my 00 Park Ave Ultra is doing it. Seems it got ice in the arm of the switch and when I hit a bump it broken and tore up the plastic arm where the metal arm connected to it. Hoping to get a junk switch for parts to repair mine....