I have an 87 Fleetwood FWD 4.1, I ALWAYS run premium 93 octane gas. I would like to know what is the max i can advance my timing, what is the stock factory setting and what will the setting be after I do the advance? Also which way do I turn the distributor, and do I need a timing light and if I do how do i hook it up and what do I point it at?

Thanks, appreciate it.

Anyone, I would like to do it this weekend cause I will have the timing gun...:rolleyes:

To set timing in your Deville, you need a timing light, a wrench, and a paperclip. The wrench of course is for adjusting the distributor.

Locate your ALDL connector (under hood on the Deville I think) and find the A and B terminals. Take the paperclip and "jump" the terminals by inserting both ends into the said terminals. Turn your ignition to the "on" position and you'll get a message on your climate controll (CC) panel showing the "set timing mode."

After this, connect your timing light to the number 1 spark plug wire and connect the light to the battery.

Turn the engine over.

Locate the timing scale on the water pump: it should be just above the harmonic balancer. Point the timing light at the scale. You should notice that there is a notch in the balancer that keeps showing up: make sure it reads on 10 on the scale.

Once done with above, loosen your dist. from the bolt underneith and adjust accordingly until you hear pinging. If you hear pinging from the engine, back the timing off until it goes away. Overall, you should get to about 13-14 degrees BTDC before any pinging occurs.

Once all is done, make sure you do the following:

a.) NO PINGING!!! It will do you no good to have this.

b.) Make sure the dist. it tight when you're finished.

c.) make sure you remove the jumper from the ALDL connector.

d.) Get a serivce manual or a Haynes before you do this so you don't **** something up.

e.) Have fun and good luck

BTW, use high octane gas (91 +).

In your case, you don't have to set the jumpers that I'm aware of. I would shoot for 13 degrees BTDC on your '87 and keep running premium fuel. If there is any sign of ping, back the advance off until it goes away.

As far as turning the dist., you'll notice it when the timing scale shows which way you're going. If it goes to 8 degrees, you know that you're turing it the wrong way. That said, you should turn the dist. in a clockwise direction.

You DO need to put the engine in "base timing" before checking it. As I recall, that's by jumpering the ALDL. Also as I recall, the base timing is 10 degrees. Advancing it is risky since there is no knock sensor and by the time you actually "hear" the pinging of detonation, it's doing damage. I've never tried it but I doubt you'll be able to add much advance without incurring some detonation.

You DO need to put the engine in "base timing" before checking it. As I recall, that's by jumpering the ALDL. Also as I recall, the base timing is 10 degrees. Advancing it is risky since there is no knock sensor and by the time you actually "hear" the pinging of detonation, it's doing damage. I've never tried it but I doubt you'll be able to add much advance without incurring some detonation.

I've never had to do that with the pre-88 models. I own two of them. Even the manual from haynes states that the '88 on up models you do have to jump them. Not the '87 FWD models and earlier. I'll scan the haynes and post a picture if needs be.

Also, I have yet to have one problem with advancing the timing on any 4.x engine. The timing was set at 10 degrees BTDC by the factory for the purpose of the owner using lower octane fuel if needs be. Setting it to above 10 requires premium fuel, but by no means dangerous if you set the timing correctly (13-14 degrees BTDC: the threshold of detonation for these engines).

Thanks for the tips guys, I just dont wanna destroy my engine. I was also told I had to plug up the vaccum advance by a mechanic. I forget if my car even has one, do I need to do that?

Thanks for the tips guys, I just dont wanna destroy my engine. I was also told I had to plug up the vaccum advance by a mechanic. I forget if my car even has one, do I need to do that?

No, I don't think your car has the vaccum advance. If it does have one, it will be a EGR looking thing on the side of the distributor. But I'm pretty sure your car doesn't have one.

Yeah I dont think I saw anything like that, I know what they look like cause my dad was always replacing them on the distributors of his 85 and 85 Saab 900's, He ran them to death with 256,000 miles original engine and gear box, never opened up or touched ( internally ) but it was tired as hell and slow as anything. I dont know whats slower, my caddy or his old saabs :D LOL

You said to point the timing light on the water pump? Thats pretty burried on my engine I think...

This is for anyone who disagrees with the instructions I gave earlier (I'm always right :yup: ) :

You said to point the timing light on the water pump? Thats pretty burried on my engine I think...

There is a timing scale at the bottom edge of the water pump that will look like a few teeth. There is a series of numbers there on the scale, reading from 0 to 20. Your timing should be set at 10 when you use the light to check it out.

Forgive me if I disagree with the Holy Haynes manual but as per GM manuals, the test term. SHOULD be grounded to put the engine in base timing. If you're not doing that, it's not like you'll have a "problem", you'll just be running a lower advance. On the other hand, if you were to do it "properly", the engine will get better performance, gas mileage, and run cooler. So it's up to you but IMO, I'd go with the "proper" procedure.
One easy way to verify this is to check the timing with a timing light, then ground the test terminal and recheck the timing. It should be significantly lower after grounding the test terminal. If not, make sure you're grounding the "proper" terminal. This must be done to deactivate EST and place the engine in base timing. This is also part of the procedure for setting "min. air".

I dont think I have to jump or touch anything electrical.

I dont think I have to jump or touch anything electrical.

And you say that based on what?

Forgive me if I disagree with the Holy Haynes manual but as per GM manuals, the test term. SHOULD be grounded to put the engine in base timing. If you're not doing that, it's not like you'll have a "problem", you'll just be running a lower advance. On the other hand, if you were to do it "properly", the engine will get better performance, gas mileage, and run cooler. So it's up to you but IMO, I'd go with the "proper" procedure.
One easy way to verify this is to check the timing with a timing light, then ground the test terminal and recheck the timing. It should be significantly lower after grounding the test terminal. If not, make sure you're grounding the "proper" terminal. This must be done to deactivate EST and place the engine in base timing. This is also part of the procedure for setting "min. air".

Will you post a picture from the GM manual so that I may see the "proper" procedure?

And yes, the Haynes manual is Holy and should be worshiped! :worship: :D

And remember, he has an '87...I have two of them. When I did the timing on each car, including my '91, I followed the procedure as indicated in the Haynes. It may not be the great GM service guide, but it has gotten me through several ordeals with nary a problem. Period.

I know that cause I spoke to an EXCELLENT mechanic ASE MASTER TECH or whatever the highest one is, who knows those engines like the back of his hand.

Guys, it really doesn't mean that much to me. Believe me or don't. BTW, I'm an ASE Master Tech too, I just don't flaunt it in internet forums.
Just one piece of advice, throw away the Haynes manual and get a "real" one. Those things aren't worth the paper they're printed on IMO.

Guys, it really doesn't mean that much to me. Believe me or don't. BTW, I'm an ASE Master Tech too, I just don't flaunt it in internet forums.
Just one piece of advice, throw away the Haynes manual and get a "real" one. Those things aren't worth the paper they're printed on IMO.

You know what? I was going to take a vacation from this place, but I am not going to let you get away that easily.

a.) If you don't set the timing right on these models, then you're going to harm the engine. That much I'll agree on. But why would Haynes tell you something that will potentially damage your engine? If this were the case, they would have been sued long ago and we wouldn't know about them.

So what do I have to do? Paint you a picture? Oh, wait, I already did. The correct procedure is listed in the Haynes, and I'm sure it will be the same in the GM service manual too.

b.) Like it or not, I'm pretty damn good at mechanical work and I know these engines well. I know about the ECM, the mechanical aspects, you name it, I know it...Sometimes I'm wrong, but experience has taught me alot with these engines. I'm not some certified whiz: I had to learn the hard way.

c.) The reason behind the timing procedures is because of the change in the ECM's from '87 to '88. The pre-'88 models used CALPAK chips (little dinky looking chips). '88 on up uses the EPROM modules (larger chip, just one used), and as far as I know, the timing was less controlled in the older chips. Hell, if you're certified, you should know all about the changes you have to make even when just swapping engines. Unless you know how to side-step the issues like I have learned how to do.

Oh well, I've made my point and I am done with this thread, unless someone needs more help.

Thanks for all your help ILLUMINA, the directions you gave before are great, guys dont get into arguments, I appreciate everyones help.

Thanks for all your help ILLUMINA, the directions you gave before are great, guys dont get into arguments, I appreciate everyones help.

I agree that we shouldn't argue about something as trivial as this. I just don't see the issue especially after I posted a page from an actual Haynes manual. I know the Haynes is by no means superior to the GM service guide, but it is a good reference to those who don't have access to the aforementioned GM guid. Also, I am looking forward to purchasing the GM guide as soon as I find out where to get one. I'll need the GM guide for when I start up the turbocharger project.

By the way, unless some dude named Bbob comes in and tells me otherwise, I'll continue to trust the evil Haynes manual...Even sometimes I don't agree with him, but I do trust his knowledge about any Cadillac engine and with good reason: he's an engineer for GM...Or was, I'm not too sure what his actual deal is now.

Pre 1987 Cadillac 4.X timing procedure :

Stand on your head and be sure to have plenty of Vasaline or KY. Then turn the water pump pulley three times and say "red rum". After turning water pump ANOTHER 3 times hit the throttle body with a rubber chicken.Then choke said chicken.After that use a pink distributor wrench for a Ford Pinto and turn the clamp bolt 3 times and say "what a nice tea party Mister Rodgers". Now take one Viarga pellet and start engine. Turn on some Black Sabbath and use your timing light to ensure Ozzy hits the correct high notes dureing the song "Iron Man" as the engine turns its 92nd revoultion. You have now set the proper ignition timing for your Cadillac 4.x series engine.
These proceedures NEED to be followed in order to set timing , these highly advanced Cadillacs have the same computing power as the 1988 "supernerd" edition Casio calaulator watch .

Next Chapter we cover closeing the Hood in 15 easy steps !

Thanks Stoney for the real procedure. :thumbsup:

Anytime Illlumina ....these manuals are great i got em one night i couldnt sleep off one of them "time life " deals LOL

That sounds like me when I run out of ideas.:histeric:

You know what? I was going to take a vacation from this place, but I am not going to let you get away that easily.

a.) If you don't set the timing right on these models, then you're going to harm the engine. That much I'll agree on. But why would Haynes tell you something that will potentially damage your engine? If this were the case, they would have been sued long ago and we wouldn't know about them.

So what do I have to do? Paint you a picture? Oh, wait, I already did. The correct procedure is listed in the Haynes, and I'm sure it will be the same in the GM service manual too.

b.) Like it or not, I'm pretty damn good at mechanical work and I know these engines well. I know about the ECM, the mechanical aspects, you name it, I know it...Sometimes I'm wrong, but experience has taught me alot with these engines. I'm not some certified whiz: I had to learn the hard way.

c.) The reason behind the timing procedures is because of the change in the ECM's from '87 to '88. The pre-'88 models used CALPAK chips (little dinky looking chips). '88 on up uses the EPROM modules (larger chip, just one used), and as far as I know, the timing was less controlled in the older chips. Hell, if you're certified, you should know all about the changes you have to make even when just swapping engines. Unless you know how to side-step the issues like I have learned how to do.

Oh well, I've made my point and I am done with this thread, unless someone needs more help.

Then you SHOULD understand what EST is, right?

In my experience the Haynes manuals are worse than useless....they are often wrong and misleading and not very specific. Get the factory service manuals published thru Helms... Use the Chiltons and Haynes for toilet paper in the out house.

To set the distributor reference setting (commonly called the "timing") you MUST put the system into some sort of fixed or reference spark condition. This is true of all the electronic spark systems...not just 88 and later. Even on the 82 HT4100 engines there is a means to put the system into fixed spark by disconnecting the EST line at the connector provided underhood. If you are 'setting the timing" without putting the system into fixed spark then the results are likely incorrect.

On an 87 Deville I thought there was an ALDL connector under the dash.... If so, jumper the pins A and B with a test lead to force the system into the fixed spark mode. Look at the timing tab with the timing light. The base timing spec is 10 degrees BTDC. I would confirm this before you start to change things to be sure you are finding the marks correctly and that the system is where you think it is before changing it.

You should be able to bump the timing up to 14 degrees if you use premium fuel all the time. This will provide a slight performance increase and will be perfectly fine for spark knock. If you do start to hear some spark knock, just back off the timing to 13 and keep listening. You are not likely to hurt the engine in any way...unless you are planning on towing a 5000 pound trailer thru Death Valley in the summer at full throttle....LOL. Some slight pinging or spark knock is considered the "sound of fuel economy" meaning the spark is just about optimum. Slight spark knock will not hurt anything...especially on an engine like the HT4100 that is not very high specific output.

The idea that "the timing was less controlled in the older chips" is laughable....LOL LOL The ECM's control the spark timing thru the EST line. There is no difference in the degree of control of the spark due to the changes in the shape of the calibration chip in the computer. You are just looking at different electronic hardware with the different cal chip size and shape.

Wait a minute, if I disconnect the EST line do I still have to set the jumper or do I have to do both or one or the other? And I cant find the damn timing notch/scale anywhere on my engine???? :hmm:

My ego won't allow me to do this often, so Bbob and Katshot...You guys were right...For now...Now I feel like a complete dumbass and I am going to buy the Helms!!!

Bbob, which make better toilet paper, the Haynes or the Chilton? :D

I was always under the impression that the ECM's for the 4.1 engines were a little different and controlled things differently, but I guess not. And Katshot, I KNOW WHAT ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING IS! I guess digital fuel injection would be need the timing controll from the ECM, huh?

Oh well, **** it...For now... :shhh: :lildevil:

So to whomever is reading this: never listen to my advice again, I give up.

For all readers:

I am going on record and saying that not one of you experts respect my knowledge and skills regarding mechanics. What I though was right information in the Haynes manual has been turned up-side down. I figured that Haynes was a decnt piece of material. And why wouldn't I believe it? It was specifying a certain year of car. So why wouldn't I follow that?

Oh well, a list for you critics:

a.) I know nothing.

b.) I will post here whenever I feel like it, but please, pay no attention: my mechanical advice is useless!

c.) I know nothing about the 4.x engine. I own 3 of them, yet have no idea on how they work: I must be a dumbass.

So please folks, whenever you see a post of mine in the 4.x section, ignore it.

d.) I know nothing.

You know what? I was going to take a vacation from this place, but I am not going to let you get away that easily.

a.) If you don't set the timing right on these models, then you're going to harm the engine. That much I'll agree on. But why would Haynes tell you something that will potentially damage your engine? If this were the case, they would have been sued long ago and we wouldn't know about them.

So what do I have to do? Paint you a picture? Oh, wait, I already did. The correct procedure is listed in the Haynes, and I'm sure it will be the same in the GM service manual too.

b.) Like it or not, I'm pretty damn good at mechanical work and I know these engines well. I know about the ECM, the mechanical aspects, you name it, I know it...Sometimes I'm wrong, but experience has taught me alot with these engines. I'm not some certified whiz: I had to learn the hard way.

c.) The reason behind the timing procedures is because of the change in the ECM's from '87 to '88. The pre-'88 models used CALPAK chips (little dinky looking chips). '88 on up uses the EPROM modules (larger chip, just one used), and as far as I know, the timing was less controlled in the older chips. Hell, if you're certified, you should know all about the changes you have to make even when just swapping engines. Unless you know how to side-step the issues like I have learned how to do.

Oh well, I've made my point and I am done with this thread, unless someone needs more help.

:lies: :tisk:

see now illumina, for what its worth: since ive been on this forum ive come to accept the words of yourself and bbob as more or less being the words of god lol. you know youre not always right, chr.ist nobody is.

but arent you the crazy son of a gun trying to re-program the computer in your seville...not to mention attempting some sort of turbo? to me, the fact this even crosses your mind speaks volumes of your knowledge of these cars.

i myself think learning the hard way works best anyways, which clearly you have. heck, the only reason i know the little i do about cars is cuz my first was a 1990 continental ::cringes:: fortunately, after 2 years i havent really had to learn much the hard way with my deville. but from reading about what everyone else is going through, and everything you (as well as others) have to say im learning.

you know as well as everyone else that youve provided much help to quite a few people around here. so quit being so hard on yourself...and quit digging for compliments lol.

i knew i shouldve signed to be a psych major. :banghead:

Wait a minute, if I disconnect the EST line do I still have to set the jumper or do I have to do both or one or the other? And I cant find the damn timing notch/scale anywhere on my engine???? :hmm:

Depends on the car, some have the EST line with a inline connector (like most carb 2.8L V6's) you disconnect, some just have you jumper pins A-B on the ALDL. Same result. The Timing Advance line is disconnected, and the module drops back to reference timing, aka, base timing. So if you don't have the EST inline connector, just jumper Pins A-B. I think it is a brown wire, all by itself going in with the rest of the wires into the HEI. Just find the base of the HEI, and the group of wires going in, and follow each to see if one breaks off to a inline connector. I think it was the type of ECM (6504 processor, HC11 processor, etc) that made the difference, not for sure though.

The timing scale is likely covered in grease and oil. A trip to the car wash might help. Just don't spray around the bearings of the spining things... Night time is when I set timing, the only time I can see my 4.9L's marks. Look for the magnetic pickup hole, the pointers should be just CCW around 0.5in to 2inches. They are hard to see for sure.

Tom

you know as well as everyone else that youve provided much help to quite a few people around here. so quit being so hard on yourself...and quit digging for compliments lol.

i knew i shouldve signed to be a psych major. :banghead:

Ohhh, I was just being a sarcastic baby.

I was considering psych as a major, but I decided on law instead. I know too damn much about the brain and would like to use less of it if possible :bonkers:

Besides, I post here whether or not Katshot and Bbob like it, and I'll continue to do so. Though Bbob and me still talk. I've been trying to pump him for information on the cylinder heads of the 4.5 in regards to turbocharging. I'm going to stick with the 4.9!

There are people I respect for car advice if I want to know something or have a problem, they consist of the following (and I hope I haven't forgot anyone) I call them the "techies":

Illumina
DaveSmed
BBob
Ranger
Katshot
youbetcha77
Stoneage_Caddy

I hope I didn't forget anyone, I'm sure I did!! Sorry if so!

I respect these people's opinions EQUALLY and it's not a competition. I know that more people give sound advice than this but these are the people I know and have talked to at one point or another.

Katshot, Bbob, everyone else: you're all wrong about the timing of these engines. Here's the real procedure in case anyone missed it:

Pre 1987 Cadillac 4.X timing procedure :

Stand on your head and be sure to have plenty of Vasaline or KY. Then turn the water pump pulley three times and say "red rum". After turning water pump ANOTHER 3 times hit the throttle body with a rubber chicken.Then choke said chicken.After that use a pink distributor wrench for a Ford Pinto and turn the clamp bolt 3 times and say "what a nice tea party Mister Rodgers". Now take one Viarga pellet and start engine. Turn on some Black Sabbath and use your timing light to ensure Ozzy hits the correct high notes dureing the song "Iron Man" as the engine turns its 92nd revoultion. You have now set the proper ignition timing for your Cadillac 4.x series engine.
These proceedures NEED to be followed in order to set timing , these highly advanced Cadillacs have the same computing power as the 1988 "supernerd" edition Casio calaulator watch .

Next Chapter we cover closeing the Hood in 15 easy steps !

If nobody can follow said (^) procedure, then please don't complain. Have a nice day :D

There are people I respect for car advice if I want to know something or have a problem, they consist of the following (and I hope I haven't forgot anyone) I call them the "techies":

Illumina
DaveSmed
BBob
Ranger
Katshot
youbetcha77
Stoneage_Caddy

I hope I didn't forget anyone, I'm sure I did!! Sorry if so!

I respect these people's opinions EQUALLY and it's not a competition. I know that more people give sound advice than this but these are the people I know and have talked to at one point or another.

Im respected !!! and a techie !!!!! whee dawgie !!!

Lumina , let me put it to you on the line us old crusty vets know.....damn smartass civilains....

Round here even if you give out some bad info youve helped someone , sometimes many posts here go unawnsered , the only way to get some of these folks the help they need is to either :
a) become a mod and keep moving the thread thru diffrent forums till you get a "bite" (or in this case a byte eh?)
B) attempt to help the person yourself , posting is like "bait" someone will come by and try to "out wit" you to make them selves look beatter .int he airforce we called this "polishing the turd"...this method also works to drag bbob in to rescue the person in need , there is nothing bbob hates more than bad information going out ....

Now im not endorseing bad information , we all need to not only try harder to help others but we all need try harder to listen to eachother ....Im not posting near as much anymore , my cofidence in my mechanical abilitys is fadeing as i havent done it for a living in so long ....if i was to work commmision id starve ...

Ok R Lee Ermy "mail call) is back on ....time for me to get a glass of bug juice and my boonie hat (signed by r lee ermy and seen afganistan)...hes talking "up armor humvees" ....near and dear ty my heart ...

Both the Chiltons and Haynes use paper that is rather coarse for toilet paper....use only in an emergency.

...Im not posting near as much anymore , my cofidence in my mechanical abilitys is fadeing...
Man, I used to be a wealth of technical and mechanical information till I came here! Here I definitely fall into the 'Bait' category!
... i havent done it for a living in so long ....if i was to work commmision id starve ...
Haven't done it for so long? Haven't done it for so long?! When were you wrenchin for a livin? In grammer school? Geez man, when I was 23 I was still pickin my nose an scratchin my butt askin the journeyman I was workin with, "Wha? How'd you do that again?" :hmm: :bonkers:
My hat's off to you Stoney!

Both the Chiltons and Haynes use paper that is rather coarse for toilet paper....use only in an emergency.

I'll let you know when I get my Helms manual. In the Army days, I preffered shit paper that was course: I didn't need as much of it...

I'll let you know when I get my Helms manual. In the Army days, I preffered shit paper that was course: I didn't need as much of it...

At least you HAD some. Shit paper was usually at a premium in the Navy! :rolleyes:

At least you HAD some. Shit paper was usually at a premium in the Navy! :rolleyes:

During basic, we had to steal from the other platoons for shit paper. They did it to us too...

When I was in the field or whatever, I usually stored MRE napkins for later use. They weren't the softest tissues either.

During basic, we had to steal from the other platoons for shit paper. They did it to us too...

When I was in the field or whatever, I usually stored MRE napkins for later use. They weren't the softest tissues either.

Geez! I thought our military cutbacks were pathetic!

:lildevil:

During basic, we had to steal from the other platoons for shit paper. They did it to us too...

When I was in the field or whatever, I usually stored MRE napkins for later use. They weren't the softest tissues either.Yeah, but in a scrape....ooh, poor choice of words......sorry :rolleyes2

At least you HAD some. Shit paper was usually at a premium in the Navy! :rolleyes:
LOL ...dude i thought thats what your leave chits were for....TP ...sure as hell cant get leave at sea ....

Haven't done it for so long?! When were you wrenchin for a livin? In grammer school? Geez man, when I was 23 I was still pickin my nose an scratchin my butt askin the journeyman I was workin with, "Wha? How'd you do that again?" :hmm: :bonkers:
My hat's off to you Stoney!

as long as i could remeber my dad would drag me out to the garage to work on cars....i hated it , i wanted to stay inside and play with my damn hotwheels...sure as hell didnt wanna get my hands greasy...At 13 I fixed my first thing all by myself without supervision, windshield washer mechanisim on a early 80s bonneville..by 14 i was in 2 diffrent small gas engine classes, by 15 i had finished 2 of 2 semeters of diesel , by 16 i was working on fixing lawnmowers , by 17 i was a apprinatce at a Brittsh car shop , building racecars with a guy that worked there (after i got off at the brit shop for the day) ...by 18 i had worked at a junkyard and pepboys(and held 3 ASE Certs)....by 20 I was a full fledged firetruck mechanic in the airforce...a damned genious when it came to wrenching .....by 22 it started fadeing away .... now im like forest gump trying to even get a 39cc weedwacker engine running ....

Ive worked on everything from Wankel Powered lawnboy lawn mowers , to caterpillar D8Hs to ferarri 308s and rolls royce silver couds.... even a American "Drag Line" type crane ....cant remeber the model number ...

Worked in shops from a little craphole behind a school to a 2.5 million dollar facilty ....From temps of -85 below with A-10 Warthogs shooting a target behind my shop (theyd hit the trigger as they flew over me) to 135 above rebuilding a 4L80E tranny in a sandstorm....

Been a wild ride ...

WOW! :eek:
So why the hell did your "skills" fade away at 22? Sounds like you had more experience than most mechanics I've known.

For all readers:

I am going on record and saying that not one of you experts respect my knowledge and skills regarding mechanics. What I though was right information in the Haynes manual has been turned up-side down. I figured that Haynes was a decnt piece of material. And why wouldn't I believe it? It was specifying a certain year of car. So why wouldn't I follow that?

Oh well, a list for you critics:

a.) I know nothing.

b.) I will post here whenever I feel like it, but please, pay no attention: my mechanical advice is useless!

c.) I know nothing about the 4.x engine. I own 3 of them, yet have no idea on how they work: I must be a dumbass.

So please folks, whenever you see a post of mine in the 4.x section, ignore it.

d.) I know nothing.


Wipe Wipe

Wipe Wipe

Troll :yup:

WOW! :eek:
So why the hell did your "skills" fade away at 22? Sounds like you had more experience than most mechanics I've known.
wish i knew ...just seems like by then i started screwing the pooch ....you know its pretty common to break something every now and then but i was getting realy bad about it. Then we had a truck come in one day missing its left front wheel , brake rotor etc and had body damage. They intially called me in and told me i did it ( i worked on a turck that looked just like it) the guy driving the truck was injured pretty bad after the left front wheel came off the truck witht he hub . I thought i left something loose on the truck . Felt really bad about it (i mean REALLY BAD)...only to find out it was not the truck i worked on , i had nothing to do with it. But the feeling stayed with me. Scared stiff to work on anything .

I had one more run in like that ...only that time one person was dead. They also blamed me intially when the driver of that truck ran over a airman. The driver said "no brakes". I had done a brake job on it....Turns out the brakes were just fine , the driver admitted him and the kid that died were horseing around doing that game where you hit the gas pedal so the passenger cant get int he truck. The kid lost his footing and slid unde rthe truck as he gassed it.

So probably that has alot to do with it , as you know if you dont work on stuff all the time you kinda get rusty

Aw man, thats too bad, a good technical brain like that shouldnt go to waste.:) Im going into the airforce right after high school. I would like to be an aviation mechanic. :rolleyes: :coolgleam

Aw man, thats too bad, a good technical brain like that shouldnt go to waste.:) Im going into the airforce right after high school. I would like to be an aviation mechanic. :rolleyes: :coolgleam
I BSd with the Jet engine guys all the time ....i was always trying to get clearance to get into there shop for the Engine runs , but they were always gone or doing something ....

Funny rivalry between aircraft ,esp 0a-10 and f16 crews had 2 guys in my shop one time , one looked at the other and said "hey yard dart... " I asked him "whyd you say yard dart" ..he said "becuse he does f16 engines , if he screws up the engine the f16 becomes a yard dart"

Funny and morbid at the same time ....

Out of them all i enjoyed the aircraft structure guys , got me acess to equipemnt to weld aluminum....youd be surpised on how much aluminum is in some of these firetrucks that delvop fatigue fractures over 10 years ...

I was an Aviation Machinist Mate in the Navy. Worked on F14's first, then went to an 'I' level facility and built engines for all sorts of aircraft (including helicopters), then ended up running a jet engine test cell where we ran everything from T58's to TF30P414's (helicopter engines to F14 engines). After active duty, went into the reserves and ran the jet shop in a patrol squadron of P3 sub-chasers. It was a lot of fun. The most thrilling was running those big engines with their afterburners. The most dangerous was having to crawl around those same engines at max. throttle to make adjustments. The most fun was making shrimp and lobster runs up and down the east coast in the patrol squadron.

That sounds pretty fun, I think I'll have fun, I would like doing something with the engines, either that or electronics, those are my 2 basic hobbies anyways, so would guys recommed the airforce or not?:rolleyes:

I would , esp for aircraft guys , they had it made .....us trans guys got crapped on all the time ....the money and focus is on the planes (rightfully so)....

Pre 1987 Cadillac 4.X timing procedure :

Stand on your head and be sure to have plenty of Vasaline or KY. Then turn the water pump pulley three times and say "red rum". After turning water pump ANOTHER 3 times hit the throttle body with a rubber chicken.Then choke said chicken.After that use a pink distributor wrench for a Ford Pinto and turn the clamp bolt 3 times and say "what a nice tea party Mister Rodgers". Now take one Viarga pellet and start engine. Turn on some Black Sabbath and use your timing light to ensure Ozzy hits the correct high notes dureing the song "Iron Man" as the engine turns its 92nd revoultion. You have now set the proper ignition timing for your Cadillac 4.x series engine.
These proceedures NEED to be followed in order to set timing , these highly advanced Cadillacs have the same computing power as the 1988 "supernerd" edition Casio calaulator watch .

Next Chapter we cover closeing the Hood in 15 easy steps ! Thanks Stoney for the real procedure. :thumbsup:

Damn i missing that page, i got screwed. LOL